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Rotwieler

bow shooting tips

28 posts in this topic

does anyone have any tips on how to keep your bow from twisting/or torqueing when you shoot? i was shooting yesterday and i noticed my bow twist a bit after the release. i can still hit 5" circles at 20yds 98% of the time but i would like to shoot better.

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It is all a matter of muscle memory and practice. One comes with the other. Now for the questions....

Is this a bow you have had for a while, or is it new?

Did you recently turn up the poundage / are you over bowed?

Most of the time bow torque can be traced back to to much draw weight. The bow hand and arm doing to much work. Loosen your grip on the bow. I like to tell people to "relax" thier bow hand. A strong grip will impart torque. If you are not relaxed at full draw, you are over bowed. If you are relaxed at full draw, with the bow just "resting" in your hand prior to the shot, you will get tighter groops. Try comming to full draw, taking a breath in and out prior to the shot, close your eyes if you have to, just relax.

Spend as much of your practice or training time as possible shooting at 40,50, even 60 yards. At these distances any flaw in your form will show. If by practicing and relaxing you can tighten those 40+ groups your 15-20 yarders will be very tight, and exceptionaly easy. I see to many people spending all of thier practice time at 20 yards.

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thank you! definitly going to use your tips! This will be my third season with this bow. its a mathews outback, shooting carbons. havent touched the poundage since the first season. had it paper tuned and cronographed at 262 fps last year.

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On your bow hand do you employ a high or low wrist grip? High wrist meaning your holding the bow with more of your thumb and index finger with wrist up, or low wrist with the heel of your palm doing most of the work with your wrist angled down. People tend to have less issues with torque in a low wrist position. Truthfully I've never really seen hand torque actually make a bow turn funny after the shot. It's usually only perceptible by paper tuning or results on the target. Are you shooting your bow with a big old quiver full of arrows on it? That definitely throws off the balance.

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I always wear a cotton jersey glove on my bow hand. (cut the fingers off for summertime shooting) The bow slides on the cotton to deepest part of the grip getting a consistant spot every time. This realy reduced the torque for me. And yes, a relaxed bow hand is very important.

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I had to relearn how to hold a bow when I switched to Matthews last year. Lear to relax your grip and put the fatty bow handle on the meaty part of your palm below your thumb. Keep your fingers open when drawing back, then gently wrap them around the handle before you release. Works for me, no torque.

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A wrist strap and an open hand help a lot with any torque you may apply to a bow.

Probably a bad time of year to try it (with hunting season just around the corner) but another thing to try is shortening your draw length. I was convinced to do it a few years ago and the concept is simple. If you put more bend in your bow arm, their is less tension and you are less likely to torque your shooting arm.

You will lose a couple fps in arrow speed however. Just bring it up because some people are very concerned about arrow speed.

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As many have stated, the grip is just about the most important thing!!! If you are willing post a few picts of yourself at full draw and I would be more than willing to offer up some advice. Relax and repeat is key!.. try and hit the neck of the grip on the meat of your palm, elbow up but not too high, anchor solid.

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I'll get some pics tommorrow after work. ill show you how i shoot before i try any of the tips.

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If you do picts.. Get them from directly behind, above/behind if possible and also from the side. Always remember to aim at something safe even though you dont plan on shooting and always put an arrow in so you dont dry fire.

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I know DD offered his advice first, but I'll just say go into a respected archery shop and get fitted right for your bow. It looks to me that your draw length is too much. There should be more bend at the elbow. After you get the proper fit, THEN you can start working on all the mechanics. Also, buy a wrist strap. Oh, and one more thing...that biscuit looks like it needs adjustment(actually I'd ask for a new drop-away rest as an early x-mas gift!)Good luck.

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Not to disagree, but I like a straight arm. A straight arm is easier to repeat. Can you take one more pict and have us be able to see your whole body?

From the picts you have listed, your grip is too tight. Your fingers should not make contact with the bow at all. If I may suggest you buy a sling and try hard to get those fingers off the bow. Also, your grip seems too deep in my opinion. I prefer the grip hit the meat of the hand, it rotates your hand some and your knuckles off at about a 45Deg angle to the bow. yours look parrellel or pretty close. My wife is out of town, when she returns I will have her take a pict of what I am talking about. I highly suggest you get a sling and let go of that bow for starters...

I will agree with the above poster that your rest looks like it may need some adjustment.

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I looks like your arm is awfully close to the cable. When you shoot with a long sleeve shirt or a coat with with a little bulk in the sleeves you may well wind up with your string slapping your arm or sleeve. I'd recommend a slight bend in your arm as well.

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It could be an optical illusion.. I would like to see a shot from behind before I admit that the draw is too long. Also one from the side, full body..

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Good call on the shot from behind. I'd like to see a shot where we can see the anchor point as well.

Oops. From the dept of redundancy department.

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The biscuit looks like its leaning forward.... Should be perfectly vertical. COUld be the angle of the shot though.

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Rot I will put my 2 cents in on this subject as far as grip goes I learned a sweet new way 2 years ago and it works flawlessly every time for me I shoot a Bowtech Allegiance which has a smaller grip than Matthews does, but two of my buddies have the same bow you have and shoot great also using my same grip style I will try my best to explain this to all I do is touch the tip of my pointer finger and my middle finger on the top front of grip and then tuck your other two behind the grip and dont grip the bow with your thunb Just make a relaxed circle aroung your grip and this will help you tremendously with torque problems

Actually I used to shoot open hand and I still wanted to grab for the grip dang yer on every shot and I couldnt focus on my shot placement because I always had this in back of my mind. Definately shoot at 40 for sure and further if you can I started doing this 2 years ago and it has increased my accuracy tremendously and I started shooting 2 weeks ago and I can already consistently hold 4 arrow groups at 40yds to 4 in minus and when I walk up to 20 it feels like a chip shot and so far in two weeks I robin hooded 3 arrows and this was when I was only trying to shoot three arrows into the heart area and NO I'm not bragging just trying to make a point here thats all and I owe it all to this technique and actually your better off going right out to forty until you start to fatigue and then work your way closer you will be amazed how much steadier you will be able to hold the bow and I also agree that your bow looks to long for you by the pics anyway your bow arm should be slightly bent.

Please get a drop away rest this alone will greatly increase your consistency on target And one last tip for you is here and this is somthing I read in a bowhunter mag last year a true test to tell if your drawing to much weight is by coming to full draw and do everything exactly like you would in a hunting situation and then hold your bow steady for 10 seconds and not even flinch the slightest bit and also if you cant come to full draw without having to raise your bow up while drawing then you are overbowed. Hope this helps you out and good shootin!

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Thanks for the extra picts.. Its my opinion, that you bow fits you great!.. I sould suggest you maybe get a kisser button or find some way to get your nose to the sting, it does look like your slightly leaning back.. I think if you stand straight you could maybe get your nose to the string.. but its not a must.. just be sure your anchor is the same each and every time is key...

From the new picts I stick with my original advice... Get a wrist sling and relax that grip, try and get the grip on the fat part of the palm and work those knuckles into a 45 deg angle to the grip.

That said, I think some of your accuracy issues lie in your anchor, I feel it looks tough to repeat. 1/16th of an inch difference in an anchor can be 6-8" off at 20 yards. Otherwise, form look great.

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I agree 99.999% w/ Goldtip. I shoot a Switchback and grip it like he says, except I "balance" it w/ the tip of my 3rd finger. Keeps my index and middle finger further from the grip maintaining more of an open hand feel. Works for me anyway. But I'm still wondering about the extra draw length thing, too. Kinda hard to say when I'm not there to see you draw, hold, and shoot to get the whole picture. Some guys just have a straighter arm than others. Again, I'd say go into a bow shop and shoot a shorter bow and get a firsthand opinion. Got nothing to lose. I was shooting a 30" draw which was recommended(fitted) by the Mathews dealer. I put a 29" cam in after shooting 100 arrows and man what a difference. So much for their expert advice. You have to be totally comfortable to shoot consistent. Maybe turn your bow down a lb or two until you find your zone. If you've never adjusted this before, the bow shop can help you to be sure. Also, just a reminder to keep your trigger finger back until you're ready for "final launch" because schmidt definitely does happen. smile

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That a sureloc or a cobra sight. If it's a cobra you should get rid of it. I'll take it off your hands if you want. whistle

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Relax bow hand, relax three fingers on release hand also. Get a sling on the bow. Form looks fine. I have always shot a straight arm and love it. I like my arm to be a post from my grip to my shoulder socket. It's really consistant for me doing this. Good luck.

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