Guests - If You want access to member only forums on HSO. You will gain access only when you sign-in or Sign-Up on HotSpotOutdoors.

It's easy - LOOK UPPER right menu.

Sign in to follow this  
Followers 0
machohorn

Bad slice off drive

18 posts in this topic

I have developed a bad slice off my driver, my irons are ok , what am I doing wrong? Some say I am standing too far away but I hate being critiqued on the course. any other guesses?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

A slice can be caused by many different things. Do a search for a thread about how to correct your slice. There were a lot of good ideas on how to correct your slice. Some simple things to try are teeing the ball higher. moving the ball more toward the center of your stance, swinging too hard/fast. Like I said it could be caused by a variety of bad habits, but the thread had a lot of good info.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

slice? what's a slice?

grip, swing, stance, tee height, club shaft stiffness. any one of these can do it. my biggest culprit was shat stiffness. one day with a rental club, i was hitting strait and long drives all day. the driver was a stiff shaft instead of regular. these days, my slice is more swing related(i think). i can;t seem to stay on plane.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Like others said there is only about a million things that could cause a slice. Three simple tips that worked for me are; narrowing my stance, shorter backswing and slower, smoother swing. I now hit it pretty consistently out to 275 with a slight draw.... Just remember everyone swings different. There is only one Tiger. Find what works for you and keep on swinging..

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I was going to post earlier about the shaft of the club being the issue as well. I've found that is my problem and have to compensate by turing my club face in and adjusting my grip on the club.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Last year it was a new club worked great, this year is a struggle, I think a good day at the driving range trying different things to get consistancy is the key, I know there are a 1,000 reasons but 3 or 4 seem to be the standard. wish me luck and FOUR!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I also had a really bad slice. And a slow smooth takeaway will help alot. And dont try to kill the ball just a nice relaxed swing with some force just dont over do it. And you'll hit the ball just fine. I seem to slice [power fade] when i swing hard. but then everyone is different so who knows. Good luck. Another thing is watch the otside in swing.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Take away slow and the key is the direction of your takeaway. If you take away out any little bit, it will cause you to have to pull through to get back on line, therefore the slice. Straight back and straight thru. Don't try to kill the ball. Bad things can happen when your trying to hit it hard.

I would rather be out 250 in the fairway than 275 in the woods or deep rough.

G.C.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Also try keeping your elbow in towards the hip. It will help on the direction of the takeaway.

G.C.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

My thoughts, by no means a pro...

Why does it slice? Typically because the club face is wide open when contact is made.

Why is the club face wide open? 2 reasons for me typically.

Number 1 my grip is all wrong, I find that I want the "V's" that my thumb creases create pointing right at my cheeks. Having my grip like this allows me to better pronate (natural wrist rotation) through the ball on contact. Granted the grip is tough to get used to but it is effective.

Number 2 back swing, I find that if my back is as fast as my follow through just about anything can happen when I contact the ball. It takes discipline but I try to make a slow back swing with a real short pause at the top, it is incredible the difference it can make.

RU

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I am in the middle of trying to get rid of my slice and it is not fun. I am now standing closer to the ball which feels really awkward, but I am at the right distance (according to my golf pro) I have the problem of the not having the correct swing path, to fast of a backswing, at times too closed of a face as well. Needless to say, when I connect correctly I can send the ball 300 yards straight as arrow, but I can also send it 2 fairways to the right as well.....More of a SEEELLLLLLIICCCCEEEE than just a slice.

Take a lesson or two, it does help......I only get messed up for a couple days now as compared to the beginning of the summer when the lesson would really mess me up. I am seeing the benefits of lessons already.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I was in a tourny this Sat, Thanks for the tips . I tried a few ideas ans actually had straight drives on every hole but 3 not the farthest but straight never less.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Once you figure out how to hit it straight generating a little more power and distance will be a snap.

Keep it in the short grass! grin

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I had a bad slice that was corrected by moving up on the ball and closing my stance a bit. Now I'll coming completely through the ball and have actually developed a slight draw. With today's club tech there's no need to swing as hard as you can, after I realized this, it made a big difference as well.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I only get messed up for a couple days now as compared to the beginning of the summer when the lesson would really mess me up. I am seeing the benefits of lessons already.

That's a good point and one that's often lost. Taking lessons shows you the right way to hit the ball and when you start reverting to the old habits that made you slice you have that foundation to correct yourself.

Congrat's on taking lessons, it's the only way to fix a flawed swing.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

forget about all the thoughts, just grip it and rip it. and go find the little white ball

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

forget about all the thoughts, just grip it and rip it. and go find the little white ball

Thats what I do. The more I think about my swing the worse it gets. I have above average athleticism with good hand eye coordination and balance so i find that if I just go up stop thinking and let my athleticism take over I strike the ball much better.

I rarely slice any more, usually play with a slight left to right movement with my driver. However I rarely use my driver. Once I stopped being caught up in the big drive and started playing long irons off the tee my score dropped dramatically.

I have spent time working on my long iron game and once you get your 3-4-5 irons to go right down the middle from 210-225 you are golden. Once i was able to do that my scores went down from the 95-100 range to the 85-90 range. If I can get more consistent with my short game I expect being in the low 80's more consistently with maybe the upper 70's on a good day.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

All good points. One thing that has not been bought up is do you have any physical problems? knee, hip etc. My slice kept getting worse and worse as my knee got worse and worse. I tried everything and nothing made any difference. I finally had knee reconstruction (2nd time in 25 years) and I have not sliced sense. Chances are this is not your problem but just thought I would throw it out there.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.
Sign in to follow this  
Followers 0



  • Posts



    • BEFORE BEGINNING

      Before you begin, make sure you have a good strong battery and make sure it's charged up. If you have a bad or weak battery, you may want to replace it because if it doesn't crank good and strong, you are likely to get a low, inaccurate reading. Make sure your engine is warmed up to operating temperature(if possible). About 10 minutes of riding should do.

      First, take out the spark plug and thread in the adapter for the compression tester. Make sure you have the correct size adapter for your particular ATV. Slide your kill switch to the "off" position. Some ATVs won't crank over with the kill switch in the "off" position, so if yours is like this, then you will need to either unhook your ignition coil or ground the end of the spark plug wire to a good ground. You can use a jumper wire with alligator clips on each end to ground it. Next, make sure the throttle is in the wide open position. You can either hold the throttle lever with your thumb or you may be able to tape it or use a zip tie to fasten it to your handlebars to hold it in the wide open position. If you don't have the throttle in the wide open position, you will probably get too low of a reading. Also, if you are testing a newly rebuilt engine, the engine needs to have been run for, at least, 30 or 40 minutes or you will probably get too low of a reading.

      NOTE: Before you begin with the actual test, make sure the threaded adapter is screwed in good and isn't leaking any air out around it.

      ACTUAL TESTING

      With the throttle in the wide open position, push the start button and crank the engine over until the hand on the gauge stops moving. Each time the engine turns over the hand should raise a little more until it reaches the maximum compression of the engine. When it stops, that is your compression reading. This usually takes no more than 10 seconds. Try to avoid cranking an engine for more than 10 seconds at a time as this is hard on the starter and the battery. Now, push the relief valve on your compression gauge and that will reset the hand back to zero. It's a good ideal to repeat the test a couple or three times to make sure you get an accurate reading. On kick start models, it will be the same procedure, but obviously you will be kicking it over instead of using a start button. Worn piston rings and cylinder walls will increase the number of strokes it takes to reach the maximum reading. If you're kicking, it could possibly take as many as 10-20 kicks to get the highest reading.

      THE READING

      You will need to check your repair manual for your particular model for the correct compression specifications. See note below. Usually, an engine will run OK if it has at least 100 PSI of compression. Most engines will have somewhere between 100-250 and some as high as 300 PSI, depending on the engine. Sometimes they will run with under 100 PSI, but usually not very well. If you get a low reading, you can do a "wet test" to try to help determine the problem.

      If your reading is too high, then you probably have carbon built up on your piston and combustion chamber.

      NOTE: You may get a low reading on some engines because some engines have a decompressor assembly built into the camshaft. Check the service manual for your quad to see whether or not your quad has a decompressor assembly built into the cam.

      WET TEST

      If you got a low reading, pour about 1-2 teaspoons of clean motor oil down into the cylinder through the spark plug hole and do the compression test again. If your reading increases, then your rings or cylinder walls are probably worn. If your reading doesn't increase, then it's probably your valves. You could have a bent valve, you may have leaky valve seats, or your valve clearance may not be adjusted properly. Also, low compression can be caused by a blown head gasket.

      CAUSES OF LOW COMPRESSION

      *Worn piston rings or worn or damaged cylinder walls
      *Leaking valves
      *Valve clearance not properly set
      *Blown head gasket

      CAUSE OF HIGH COMPRESSION (stock engines)

      *Carbon buildup in combustion chamber and on piston

      NOTE: Compression testing is a good way to keep track or "gauge" the wear in your engine. When you first get your ATV or when you rebuild the engine in your ATV, you can do a compression test and then later on, you can do them periodically. This will help you determine the wear in your engine each time you do a compression test and will guide you in knowing when your engine needs rebuilding.

      This is about all I can think of. I hope I didn't leave anything out and I hope this helps everyone with their compression tests.
    • As dumb as this sounds how is this done?
    • Try a compression check. And make sure the choke is opening all the way.
    • They are not the best out their but for the price and your average person not too bad I guess, Its going to send lead to where its pointed. This is probably what is going to happen he is going to buy a package shoot it for awhile then start upgrading everything to how he wants it and it is going to end up costing way more than if he just built one himself how he wants it.  
    • Hello, well I convinced my brother in-law to pick up my buddies old 1980 185 although pretty sure he said it was bored out to a 200? Here is the deal it's been sitting for a solid 8 years. I know it ran fine before. Not the delema-----   It starts right up (he bought a new carb odd amazon) although it sounds like a jet with high rpms. Looked at the throttle cable that's fine. Floats are fine. So he plugged this hole in the air filter and got it to idle down although when he hit the gas wouldn't get any power. Read a few things online and they tell you to just bypass the filter box and all that so back to amazon we went to get one of those filters that mount right up to the carb and it's still the same issue..   I just haven't seen anything like this? Do you guys have any thoughts or tricks that we/he could try?! Thanks in advance
    • Hi Everyone,  I'm looking into buying my first true fish finder and I'm a little perplex with the mapping card situation.  I'm looking at Humminbird Helix 5's and 7's.  I'm drawn to the autochart feature.  From my understanding, you can record 8 hours of charting onto the internal storage, but, is there any native mapping included on the unit or do I absolutely have to get some sort of mapping chip, zerolines or lake master, or navionics?  Can I store data on a blank SD card?  I've been researching this a lot and haven't found any conclusive answers. Thanks everyone!
    • Saul Good, Man.....  LOL 
    •   When do the not so rare Highjack birds show up?  Oh ah. 
  • Our Sponsors