Guests - If You want access to member only forums on HSO. You will gain access only when you sign-in or Sign-Up on HotSpotOutdoors.

It's easy - LOOK UPPER right menu.

Sign in to follow this  
Followers 0
Team Otter

Snap Weight Trolling...

14 posts in this topic

Scenario:

If I'm driving the boat 2.5 mph and am trolling the 50/50 method with a 2 oz. snap weight, 10/4 Fireline and a #5 Shad Rap, how deep is the Shad Rap running?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I don't believe there is a way to accurately figure out how deep you are getting on the 50/50 method in terms of an formula or a depth curve chart. The only thing you could do would be the sand test which is to go to an area that you know how deep it is and keep moving deeper until you start hitting bottom at which point you know how deep it will run. You want to find an area with fairly consent depth without weeds and rocks that will help you determine how deep you are running.

Hope this helps.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Does the Shad dive deeper than were the snap weight is at? Or does it stay about the same level?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I'm away from home this weekend and don't have my book with me so I can't look it up, but the Precision Trolling book should give you the info for 2.5 mph and the 2 oz snap weight.

I'd think the fireline would run slightly deeper than the 10 lb mono, less diameter will get you more depth doesn't matter whether you're using snap weights or not. So use that info for starters.

Then look at what 50 feet of fireline gets you with a #5 shaprap (probably 5 feet??) I think you could add the two together, ie. the snap weight will get you some depth and the shad rap will get you a little more depth.

Hope that helps

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

You could calc it - basic geometry if you can estimate the angle of the line. At 45 degree angle snap weight would be about 30 ft down ("a" squared + "b" squared = "c" squared less line needed to hit waterline). To that add diving depth of shad rap with 50ft out. Line angle at 2.5mph is probably more like 22 degrees cutting depth roughly in half. I'd guess right around 20ft. The only sure way is to check it using a known depth like Mille Lacs Guy said. My personal experience in lakes is that 20ft range estimate is a good one.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Thanks for the input gang. Yes, Precision Trolling has some good information. Basically, when using a 1-oz. snap weight, plan on a 33% increase in depth when clipped 20' above any given lure at 2.0 mph.

EX: #5 Shad Rap, 100' back on 10/4 Fireline typically runs ~10 - 11' at 2.0 mph. Add a 1-oz. snap weight 20' above the lure and you'll get to 13 - 15'.

And so a 2-oz. snap weight would probably get you to the 17 - 20' range, in theory.

I'm going to have some time on my hands this weekend on a family vacation and I thought this may be something fun to play around with out in the basins. Funny thing is what that I was hoping someone had already done the "dirty work". Ha!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I have had good luck running 30' out, snap weight then let line out till weight hits bottom, give it another 15-20' to allow for lift and go with that. I haven't run weights in a few years now since switching to leadcore. Of course I am also fishing a lake with a 21' mx depth and targeting the bottom 2-3' in the basin.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

TO- Have you found that 10/4 Fireline allows that much more depth from your lures. I run 15lb Calcutta braid right now and can't ever hit 10-11' with a #5, 9' is about the max, even with 200'+ of line out. There isn't that much of a differnce in line diameter so I think it would come down to shape, fireline is a bit flatter than this Calcutta, so maybe that is the differnce?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I can't give you a specific answer between Fireline and Calcutta, but I will tell you that without question thinner diameter lines will get you more depth, in some cases noticably more.

I think TO likes Fireline Crystal, which is rounder and not flatter like the older Fireline. I'd think the flatter sides would limit to a small degree some of the extra depth you could be getting.

Also, make sure your crankbaits are 100% in tune in order to achieve their maximum depth, being even a little out of tune will easily cost you 2-3 feet, sometimes 5, even more if they're deep divers and way out of tune.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

10/4 Fireline and/or Fireline Crystal and a tuned crank bait will get you optimal depth control at any given speed. Other super lines at similar line diameter will do the same. For example, in my boat, 100' back with a #5 Shad Rap is digging bottom in 10' at 2.5 mph...

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

hmmm....I will need to do some tweeking and or look at spooling up with 10lb braid instead of 15....

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Scenario:

If I'm driving the boat 2.5 mph and am trolling the 50/50 method with a 2 oz. snap weight, 10/4 Fireline and a #5 Shad Rap, how deep is the Shad Rap running?

A 2oz snap weight (with spinner) at 2MPH runs 15-19 feet and 23-27 feet at 1 MPH. Again, this is with 10 lb mono. A spinner or stickbait run about 2 feet deeper.

Using the 50/50 method would you consider the diving crankbait to be 100' out or 50'? There is only 2 feet of depth difference between the two on this model but it brings up a good question that Precision Trolling dosen't really cover.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Pulled in a 27.5"er last night from 30 feet of water over 48 feet. Deep diving plug 50 feet behind a 2 oz snap weight with another 100 feet of line out. Some of the biggest fish in the system are suspended right now and catchable.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

100' out; let out 50', clip on weight, let out last 50'.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.
Sign in to follow this  
Followers 0



  • Posts

    • Yes, you do have to have at least a weak cell signal and battery for the GPS to work. I know that can be challenging at times in the woods.
    •   Not sure about the new V6, but the old inline 6 was bulletproof, and had a lot of low end torque, which is a desirable feature in an off-road vehicle.       Any 1/2 ton pickup truck from the 70's and early 80's in particular, had a much better frame than a Jeep.  Body panels rust in all of them.   Not saying this is a deal-breaker for a Jeep, just something to watch for, since it is a very common problem.    
    • After doing a little looking there are a lot of options to these things. Anyone know how that new V6 compares to the in line 6? Some of the stuff I would like is the bigger tires and because I would consider putting a plow on it a lower rear end gear. The Dana 44 rear axel would be nice and would want a hard and soft top. I'm in no hurry to get one so Ill wait till the right one comes around. There are a lot of them out there that never leave the tar. More options in the later models as far as transmissions to. So it also comes down to how much I want to spend on one and how late of a model to buy. Sure don't want to spend 35K on a new one.
    • Well yeah but can you name a vehicle built for off road including any domestic pickup truck that doesn't have issues with rust. Fenders, rockers, frames etc. If you play in the mud and salt you need to maintain them. UTVs are no different. Ask yourself why Polaris would put the air filter canister intake in the rear wheel well so it is sucking in the air from the dustiest area they could possibly draw it from resulting in a 4k bill when the motor grenades.    Jeeps are fun, used ones can be had at a reasonable price but by their nature you need to be careful when you purchase because if the previous owner drove them the way they were marketed then they may have some issues.   But the aftermarket has an amazing amount of mods,upgrades and accessories to make your Jeep into anything you want and because the generally go 10 years between major design changes there are a large number of parts available if you need them.     
    • Anyfish it's still points and way better than a zero for points! Congrats on the fine eating bird.
    • Pick up a Jake morning.  Not going help the team score, if at all.  But it sure will taste good.
    • It's been very quiet in the woods the past few days.  Some gobbling this morning.
    • Nice! Way to go! Hope I'm able to get out and enjoy hunting when I'm that age.
    • Well, one of the advantages to owning a Jeep is there are always plenty of Jeep owners out there looking for parts, so if you get ahold of one with a bad frame, you could always part it out and sell the parts to another Jeep owner who believes they have a good frame....      
  • Our Sponsors