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Twisted Line


Azrael

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great debate!!!!!!!!!!!

The stiffer a line is the less it will twist...

I'm quite surprised you let out all your line and you still say there is a problem.. did you let out all your line with NOTHING on it? no clip nothing? That is what is needed.. NOTHING!!

Yes, I did let all the line out without anything on it. However, I do have it spooled on a budgeted reel. This will be replaced with a $100.00+ bait caster with a counter and superline for my trolling applications.

Any suggestions on bait casters?

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I guess I don't understand how there could be a difference between the quality of the reel in whether it did or didn't cause line twist. The functioning is the same - the wire jobberdo closes, the thingy in the middle goes around and the line comes in - doesn't it? Curious to know what the difference is.

Thanks

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Forty-five or 50 years ago I read in a tip in Field and Stream to remove line twist in mono. Let all the line out behind the boat with nothing attached to the line, the retrieve with a thick rubber band instead of just your fingers to "feather" the line.

This also works on land, just be careful not get the line tangled.

You can easily test this method to see if it will work in your situation. Just take a rubber band and rub it on the last five or six feet of the line. If the the line twist situation improves, this likely will work for all the line on the reel.

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One thing that I have found. When you let your line out with nothing on it, as you retreive it crank your reel slowly. This will allow the line to relax and unwind as you bring it in. If you just reel it in rapidly, you'll just put twist back into it again. Another trick that may help even more is to point your rod straight back so there's no bend in the rod. The line is further able to unwind as the reel winds it up.

Bob

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I guess I don't understand how there could be a difference between the quality of the reel in whether it did or didn't cause line twist. The functioning is the same - the wire jobberdo closes, the thingy in the middle goes around and the line comes in - doesn't it? Curious to know what the difference is.

Thanks

Diffrence is 10 casts or 100 or 1000 casts before the line twists on you. How the line is wrapped onto the spool by the simple mechanics of the spinning reel is night and day between reels. For example you look at company Daiwa they feature their ABS spool line wrapping technique. It creates a reversed taper line wrap on the spool that prevents unneccessary line unspooling while the bail is open. Look at Shimano and they feature their Aero-wrap spool line wrap that goes slower up and faster down. It creates a more even tension on the line pull on the cast as well as line spool onto it evenly. On their lower end they feature slow line oscillation line wrap that wraps line with an elliptical pattern - meaning the spool moves slower towards the ends of the spool and faster while line is in the middle. This prevents the middle of the spool from line bulge often found in the line wraping of cheaper budget reels or other poorly spooled line leading to spool bulge in certain spots. That's why often in the cheaper budget reels their spools are short to hide that ugly effects. That's all by mechanical design.

Better mechanical desing in operation means less operator intervention to fix those flaws.

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I have the same problem when bobber fishing. Is it the use of live bait that does this ?

I think - The biggest culprit to line twist/problems in bobber fishing is the slack line. When a line goes slack, it can come off of the spool and the line memory coil itself can be the cause of the line twist. Most of the line problem is from that initial retrieve. It does depend on the bobber fishing technique a person uses. I personally like to search or vertical slip bobber jig. Therefore I don't have time to pinch line with tension and reel it in. I bobber fish almost as if I had a jerkbait on. So bail is manually closed and rod is pulled to side to pick up slack and reel is cranked to retrieve. If I had to let the bobber sit out there, I then pinch line and with tension reel in.

So when you look at reel designs - look closely at that line roller on the rotor arm. Look at the distance the line roller is from the spool. Look to see if there's a groove in the roller. Look to see if there's a little or a lot of space from the line roller to the arm that holds the line roller. You'll want the groove in the roller as it helps to keep the line in check. You'll also want the smallest distance that line has to go from spool to line roller as well as from line roller to the arm. When line goes slack, these small differences keeps the line in place.

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Also keep in mind the factor of the individual has a lot of influence in preventing line twists. I know that when I loan a rod out and ten minutes later they get a bird's nest that I've never even imagined possible - that's all operator error. However let's say that the better equipment helps to reduce operator errors. But skillful fisherpeople are what they are becuase the know how to best use their equipment. I've been outfished by plenty who use less equipment than I do, but that's why I need the better equipment.

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