Guests - If You want access to member only forums on HSO. You will gain access only when you Sign-in or Sign-Up on HotSpotOutdoors.

It's easy - LOOK UPPER right menu.

  • Announcements

    • Rick

      Members Only Fluid Forum View   08/08/2017

      Fluid forum view allows members only to get right to the meat of this community; the topics. You can toggle between your preferred forum view just below to the left on the main forum entrance. You will see three icons. Try them out and see what you prefer.   Fluid view allows you, if you are a signed up member, to see the newest topic posts in either all forums (select none or all) or in just your favorite forums (select the ones you want to see when you come to Fishing Minnesota). It keeps and in real time with respect to Topic posts and lets YOU SELECT YOUR FAVORITE FORUMS. It can make things fun and easy. This is especially true for less experienced visitors raised on social media. If you, as a members want more specific topics, you can even select a single forum to view. Let us take a look at fluid view in action. We will then break it down and explain how it works in more detail.   The video shows the topic list and the forum filter box. As you can see, it is easy to change the topic list by changing the selected forums. This view replaces the traditional list of categories and forums.   Of course, members only can change the view to better suit your way of browsing.   You will notice a “grid” option. We have moved the grid forum theme setting into the main forum settings. This makes it an option for members only to choose. This screenshot also shows the removal of the forum breadcrumb in fluid view mode. Fluid view remembers your last forum selection so you don’t lose your place when you go back to the listing. The benefit of this feature is easy to see. It removes a potential barrier of entry for members only. It puts the spotlight on topics themselves, and not the hierarchical forum structure. You as a member will enjoy viewing many forums at once and switching between them without leaving the page. We hope that fluid view, the new functionality is an asset that you enjoy .
  • RECEIVE THE GIFTS MEMBERS SHARE WITH YOU HERE...THEN...CREATE SOMETHING TO ENCHANT OTHERS THAT YOU WANT TO SHARE

    You know what we all love...

    When you enchant people, you fill them with delight and yourself in return. Have Fun!!!

  • 0
Sign in to follow this  
Motown

advice needed on new lowrance

Question

Please, anyone have advice on a new lowrance for muskie/walleye fishing Triton boat? Any favorite models, must haves? Thanks!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

11 answers to this question

Recommended Posts

  • 0

520 or a 522 are pretty popular options for sonar/gps combos. They are reasonably priced and work pretty well, taking both Navionics and Lakemaster chips. How much money do you have burning a hole in your pocket. Bigger is better in most instances, but it all depends on your budget.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
  • 0

I got the 522c and like it so far. Looses bottom at times, but other than that has been a great unit.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
  • 0

If I were to go out and get a new Lowrance, I would get 112c or a 37c with the broadband sounder unit. LB

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
  • 0

I've got the 522i and have enjoyed it so far. Make sure you update the software on the unit as it makes a big difference in losing bottom...The option of networking unit's is also a nice feature with Lowrance. Good luck!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
  • 0

I was looking at the bigger Lowrance units the 37C or HD's or comprable...........any advice on these or thier similar units. THANKS ALL!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
  • 0

I don't think I would get the HD. I'm not totally up on it but I'm not sure it gives much more than what the chip does unless you travel to many states. I would go no smaller than the 8" and if it's in the budget and it will fit on the dash, go BIG.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
  • 0

I got a 520c and it losses botttom alot even with the update and have had alot of problems with other units but don't now of what brand that I would get next.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
  • 0

Given what you're looking at, I like the 37. I agree with mnfishinguy, no need for the 38 HD in my opinion unless you do a lot of traveling around the country --- use LM or Nav chips in the 37 and you should be good to go.

Regarding stepping up to the 112, it's a lot more money and the screen on the 37 is so big already I'm not sure how much more benefit you'd get by going to the 112. Plus those big units really put a pounding on their mounts when you're bouncing around --- regardless of which one you get, make sure you use a big RAM mount for it.

Are you just going with 1 unit or are you networking multiple units together?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
  • 0

To be honest if I was going to spend the coin on the bigger ones I would look at the hummingbirds with side imaging. That's my .02 cents anyway.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
  • 0

I have a 27 and love it. If I was going to blow my retirement on some electronics I would go with a 37 and 522 networked before I went to HD.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
  • 0

27 is a nice unit at a decent price. A bigger screen is always nice though especially if ya split the screen.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.
Sign in to follow this  



  • Your Responses - Share & Have Fun :)

    •   Sounds plausible to me.  Is the thickened footing in your mind the same as pouring the perimeter of the slab thicker?  We did an 8 inch perimeter around the 4 inch slab.
    • Yes. But on a post framed building the only think I ever see is a thickened footing and not a foundation to the frost line. A major benefit of post framing is that you install the posts below the frost line so the need for a concrete foundation below the frost line is not needed. If I am understanding the question correctly. 
    • FYI driveway approaches are on the public right of way, you may not block them, or place anything that can injure someone.   May a person park their own vehicle in their own driveway approach?
    • I think they’re more looking at the footings requirement, aren’t they?  Thus the reason for getting the poles below the frost line?   Its the township’s responsibility to figure this out and you have the right to ask them to cite the code they’re following.   I used to live in Isanti County and dealt with a building inspector from my township on the construction of my detached garage.  Things weren’t very strict to say the least.     We built everything by the current UBC code, so I’d suggest first getting a copy of the current version of that since this building will actually be your home.  Don’t take unnecessary shortcuts to save a few bucks up front.  You’ll eventually regret it.   Reading your plans for the slab, it sounds pretty good.  There are plenty of slab homes out there built the way you describe.  What you don’t want is movement.     I’m not an expert by any means but I think footings on your slab wouldn’t be a bad idea and sinking your poles that deep should be a requirement.  If you don’t do footings, at least pour your slab thicker on the perimeter to hold it better.    Your local Authority Having Jurisdiction (AHJ) can be more restrictive than code, but not less.  So if it’s defined in the UBC, you have to do at least that much.
    • I’ve personally been on both sides of this.   Used to love getting as much air as possible over driveways but I never understood gunning it on the other side after crossing.  I guess some are just mild adrenaline junkies.    I quit doing that for one, because it’s illegal, and two, not safe if the homeowner happens to be leaving or getting the mail at the time.   Now that I have a posted trail going over my driveway, I find it just rude, obnoxious and irritating to deal with 4 wheelers and sleds gunning it over the gravel and making ruts and eroding my base to the point of it being an expense to either plow and pack the class 5 back in place or spend the money to pave it.  I hate having to bounce over two ruts with my trailers and whatever I’m hauling in them too.   I think that’s the worst part for me.  Either jump it or be mellow on the throttle the entire way over.   I’ve seen trail groomers go around driveways before, making me wonder if that truly is a requirement or they were simply being courteous.  But I agree with knoppers, they should not drag over the driveway.  Maybe they think they’re taking the snow off for ya.  Call the people responsible for the trail and ask them for suggestions.  
    • If you want to get through ice fast and are going to re-tool for it completely, look at a Nils before making your final decision. 
    • I am fully aware of this as are most people.
    • some people are bad apples that give the sport a bad name, I as a snowmobiler have respect for driveways. FYI driveway approaches are on the public right of way, you may not block them, or place anything that can injure someone. trail groomers actually do you a favor by knocking down the bank, to keep it level. unless your groomer was not well trained, they will not groom over your driveway.
    • If code allows post frame for residential construction then by design you don't need a block foundation. 
    • Perfect that awnsers my question. Why spend $250 when I could spend $150 on a new lazer bit and cuts faster, it’s more durable but still about same weight and a chipper but. Really a no brainer. What are you seeing for drilling time with that 8 inch lazer?
  • MWO