Guests - If You want access to member only forums on HSO. You will gain access only when you sign-in or Sign-Up on HotSpotOutdoors.

It's easy - LOOK UPPER right menu.

Sign in to follow this  
Followers 0
riverrat56

I'm lost and need some help

11 posts in this topic

I'm a die hard walleye guy, but I've got an itch to catch a few smallies with out driving back up to Canada to do it. I'll be hitting Green Lake, just looking for some techniques to use, preferable ones that aren't going to require buying much, I've got a nice selection of cranks, round head jigs, twister tails, ya know, walleye stuff. I do have a few top waters, buzzbaits, poppers and Zara Spooks. Also wondering what types of areas I should be looking in for smallies.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I'd had brief vision of this myself although I don't know much about smallies. I'll be interested to see how you do

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Riverrat,

You should be able to pick up smallies with the gear you have. I'd typically use short/fat cranks like the DT series, but you could probably do okay with shad raps or other walleye type cranks. Xraps work great if you have any.

Jig and grubs (Twister tails) can be deadly for smallies and can be fished in a lot of different ways.

All the topwater lures you mentioned should work well if the topwater bite is on.

I guess I might buy some tubes, senkos and crawfish plastics too. They're relatively inexpensive and will give you more options.

As far as locations, I'd say look for shallow rock piles. Any where you can find a sandy bottom with larger rocks or boulders scattered around seems to be good. From what I've read, walleye fishermen catch a lot of smallies on Green in their deeper walleye spots too. Assuming you're talking the Green lake out in Spicer, I would post this topic on that board and I'm sure you'll get feedback.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I've stummbled across quite a few smallies lately. Top water is an awesome way to go, a little slower on the bites but great when they happen. Me and my kids did really, really well on a colored hook with a leech as well. Hope this helps a little.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

throw spinnerbaits and crankbaits out there and you should be fine. At least this is what I've done out there both times I've been there. Last year in August this is all we did and caught many over 3lbs out there. Find the rock areas in about 5-10 ft of water. Smaller finesse jigs, grubs, and tubes will work as well.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Thanks for the help guys, the Willmar forum was not too willing to help a guy out. I do have alot of X-raps, as well as some Fat Raps, not quite DT's but basically the same thing. I had heard about walleye fisherman catching them on lindy's and leeches, but I'm not your typical walleye guy, lets just say, looking in 5-10' of water is alot deeper than I've been fishing for the last month.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Oops.... Spinnerbaits work well also.

OOh! spinner baits I have one of those!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

And meet my fishing partner.....he really does have one....

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.
Sign in to follow this  
Followers 0



  • Posts

    • Preds make it to the finals.  I thought someone said they were the last team in and technically the 16 seed.   Who ever they face in the finals it will be a battle, hope the Sens make it.  But would be nice to see Cullen get a cup.
    • My hunt in WI this past weekend was tough as well.  I found tons of ramps, they grow everywhere in the area we hunted, but zero morels.  I saw a few pheasant backs, but did not pick them as they did not interest me.  
    • I finally just said screw it, so I picked a couple of guys that I thought would do good (Christie, and Rojas) and some over looked guys that have had a little success this year, and were from the area.  Would never had expected Alton Jones Jr, to go from 80 something place on day 1 to the top 12.  Glad he was on my team though
    • Added these for the fry pan to go with some turkey also.  
    • If you haven't planted your tomatoes yet......plant them laying down on their side. Pick off all the branches up to the top.Lay the plant in a trench and cover the stem up to the top. Put a soil pillow under the top. Just be careful not to break the stem (I have). Tomatoes are the only plant that will send out roots from the buried stem. You will wind up with a large root ball to feed the plant. This also puts the roots closer to the surface where the soil is warmer instead of deep where it is cool.
    • Another disaster. I tried making relatively safe picks, and bombed. I have gone from the top 60 after two events all the way down to just over the 90th percentile. I need to just go with my gut
    • that is what we were thinking too.
    • Live link.   http://www.dnr.state.mn.us/features/webcams/falconcam/index.html      


    • BEFORE BEGINNING

      Before you begin, make sure you have a good strong battery and make sure it's charged up. If you have a bad or weak battery, you may want to replace it because if it doesn't crank good and strong, you are likely to get a low, inaccurate reading. Make sure your engine is warmed up to operating temperature(if possible). About 10 minutes of riding should do.

      First, take out the spark plug and thread in the adapter for the compression tester. Make sure you have the correct size adapter for your particular ATV. Slide your kill switch to the "off" position. Some ATVs won't crank over with the kill switch in the "off" position, so if yours is like this, then you will need to either unhook your ignition coil or ground the end of the spark plug wire to a good ground. You can use a jumper wire with alligator clips on each end to ground it. Next, make sure the throttle is in the wide open position. You can either hold the throttle lever with your thumb or you may be able to tape it or use a zip tie to fasten it to your handlebars to hold it in the wide open position. If you don't have the throttle in the wide open position, you will probably get too low of a reading. Also, if you are testing a newly rebuilt engine, the engine needs to have been run for, at least, 30 or 40 minutes or you will probably get too low of a reading.

      NOTE: Before you begin with the actual test, make sure the threaded adapter is screwed in good and isn't leaking any air out around it.

      ACTUAL TESTING

      With the throttle in the wide open position, push the start button and crank the engine over until the hand on the gauge stops moving. Each time the engine turns over the hand should raise a little more until it reaches the maximum compression of the engine. When it stops, that is your compression reading. This usually takes no more than 10 seconds. Try to avoid cranking an engine for more than 10 seconds at a time as this is hard on the starter and the battery. Now, push the relief valve on your compression gauge and that will reset the hand back to zero. It's a good ideal to repeat the test a couple or three times to make sure you get an accurate reading. On kick start models, it will be the same procedure, but obviously you will be kicking it over instead of using a start button. Worn piston rings and cylinder walls will increase the number of strokes it takes to reach the maximum reading. If you're kicking, it could possibly take as many as 10-20 kicks to get the highest reading.

      THE READING

      You will need to check your repair manual for your particular model for the correct compression specifications. See note below. Usually, an engine will run OK if it has at least 100 PSI of compression. Most engines will have somewhere between 100-250 and some as high as 300 PSI, depending on the engine. Sometimes they will run with under 100 PSI, but usually not very well. If you get a low reading, you can do a "wet test" to try to help determine the problem.

      If your reading is too high, then you probably have carbon built up on your piston and combustion chamber.

      NOTE: You may get a low reading on some engines because some engines have a decompressor assembly built into the camshaft. Check the service manual for your quad to see whether or not your quad has a decompressor assembly built into the cam.

      WET TEST

      If you got a low reading, pour about 1-2 teaspoons of clean motor oil down into the cylinder through the spark plug hole and do the compression test again. If your reading increases, then your rings or cylinder walls are probably worn. If your reading doesn't increase, then it's probably your valves. You could have a bent valve, you may have leaky valve seats, or your valve clearance may not be adjusted properly. Also, low compression can be caused by a blown head gasket.

      CAUSES OF LOW COMPRESSION

      *Worn piston rings or worn or damaged cylinder walls
      *Leaking valves
      *Valve clearance not properly set
      *Blown head gasket

      CAUSE OF HIGH COMPRESSION (stock engines)

      *Carbon buildup in combustion chamber and on piston

      NOTE: Compression testing is a good way to keep track or "gauge" the wear in your engine. When you first get your ATV or when you rebuild the engine in your ATV, you can do a compression test and then later on, you can do them periodically. This will help you determine the wear in your engine each time you do a compression test and will guide you in knowing when your engine needs rebuilding.

      This is about all I can think of. I hope I didn't leave anything out and I hope this helps everyone with their compression tests.
    • As dumb as this sounds how is this done?
  • Our Sponsors