Guests - If You want access to member only forums on HSO. You will gain access only when you Sign-in or Sign-Up on HotSpotOutdoors.

It's easy - LOOK UPPER right menu.

  • Announcements

    • Rick

      Members Only Fluid Forum View   08/08/2017

      Fluid forum view allows members only to get right to the meat of this community; the topics. You can toggle between your preferred forum view just below to the left on the main forum entrance. You will see three icons. Try them out and see what you prefer.   Fluid view allows you, if you are a signed up member, to see the newest topic posts in either all forums (select none or all) or in just your favorite forums (select the ones you want to see when you come to Fishing Minnesota). It keeps and in real time with respect to Topic posts and lets YOU SELECT YOUR FAVORITE FORUMS. It can make things fun and easy. This is especially true for less experienced visitors raised on social media. If you, as a members want more specific topics, you can even select a single forum to view. Let us take a look at fluid view in action. We will then break it down and explain how it works in more detail.   The video shows the topic list and the forum filter box. As you can see, it is easy to change the topic list by changing the selected forums. This view replaces the traditional list of categories and forums.   Of course, members only can change the view to better suit your way of browsing.   You will notice a “grid” option. We have moved the grid forum theme setting into the main forum settings. This makes it an option for members only to choose. This screenshot also shows the removal of the forum breadcrumb in fluid view mode. Fluid view remembers your last forum selection so you don’t lose your place when you go back to the listing. The benefit of this feature is easy to see. It removes a potential barrier of entry for members only. It puts the spotlight on topics themselves, and not the hierarchical forum structure. You as a member will enjoy viewing many forums at once and switching between them without leaving the page. We hope that fluid view, the new functionality is an asset that you enjoy .
  • RECEIVE THE GIFTS MEMBERS SHARE WITH YOU HERE...THEN...CREATE SOMETHING TO ENCHANT OTHERS THAT YOU WANT TO SHARE

    You know what we all love...

    When you enchant people, you fill them with delight and yourself in return. Have Fun!!!

Sign in to follow this  
Hookmaster

Rusty rotors on 2004 Silverado

Recommended Posts

I have a 2004 Silverado crew cab. I heard a scraping noise while making right hand curves. I took the left rear tire of and found the outer edge of the rotors are severely rusted. So much that it is affecting the available braking surface. Has anyone else experienced this? Is there a service bulletin or recall on this. The pads still have plenty on them but the rotor is shot.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Everybody with a Chevy truck with rear disk will reply yes, they have they same problem!

Two things happen,

1. The bracket that the pads mount into has rusted under the metal shims pinching/seizing the pads. There have been many times I have had to use a hammer to pound the old pads out. I have a bench top sandblaster that I use to clean these up with then I apply a thin layer of High temp 3M brake lube (copper colored anti-seize looking stuff) and finally reinstall the shims over that. The pads should slide freely once this is done.

2. The caliper slide is frozen in the bracket. This will also usually result in a worn out inner pad and plenty of friction material left on the outboard pad. Typically the entire surface of the outside of the rotor will be rusted up also.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I have a 2000 Silverado and replaced the rotors due to rust. $600 at the shop or $124 do it your self with China made rotors. Took me about 2 or 3 hours. There is a lot of talk about this on the net. But Chevy has not had a recall.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

It's been a while since I did my own brakes but I have a friend who's a good wrench to help me. Can anyone recommend a brand of rotor to look at and ones to stay away from.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Just in the process of replacing the front pads on my '04 Silverado and have one question... Aside from the fact that the bolts that hold the caliper and the carrige together have a T-55 torx head, is there anything special about removing these bolts? I cant seem to get them to budge. They are really torqued down. Any tips would be greatly appreciated...

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

The place I deal with has Raybestos rotors in a 3 different grades. If you can get them through your supplier I would use either the mid grade or premium one but not the cheapest one. If you do a lot of heavy braking and trailering go with the premium one, otherwise the mid grade will be fine for average use.

Quote:
Aside from the fact that the bolts that hold the caliper and the carrige together have a T-55 torx head, is there anything special about removing these bolts?
A good torx socket and more grunt. (maybe a pair of knuckle saver gloves just in case)

They can be tough, but most will come loose. I've had a few that needed some "help" from means I won't recommend.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Yep, just some good old fashioned muscle is usually what's necessary to break them free. grin Gloves for your knuckles is a good idea too.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

GM likes to use a lot of blue locktight on all there brake stuff. A half inch impact (Ingersoll Rand TNT) with a socket and adapter that can handle it and they come right out!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Allright, I will keep at it. The first attempt yesterday ended up in a busted T-55 bit... I am going to see if I can find the beefier 1/2 drive version. The impact was my first attempt, then I went directly to the breaker bar. The torx bit actually sheared lengthwise as I was trying to bust it loose. Now I remember why I love brake work...

They are normal bolts right? Not lefthand threads or anything odd like that?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Yah they're right hand threads, but you're probably looking at them backwards. I had to use a breaker bar and a pipe extension and that was after letting the Kroil work over night.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Yeah, like Jer said, I suspect its the locktight and tnd the fact they have never been off before... I ordered up a new T-55 which should be here in a few days, I just wanted to make sure I wasnt missing something obvious.

Thanks guys!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.
Sign in to follow this  



  • Your Responses - Share & Have Fun :)

    • I can recall,   farther back than you think, of running into one now and then and finding one inn a trap from time to time. And this was MORE than fifty years ago,  so they've been around a while. Maybe just an uptick in the population in southern MN.
    • For any of you that have ever had a desire to do any sledding in the Black Hills... This is definitely the year to do it. This is by far the most snow that I have seen out there. On most years, you can get lucky to ride either the Northern or Southern hills... This year both are awesome and the meadows are full! I am hoping to get out there once more before the end of the month.
    • Yeah, but somewhere in Iowa there is an imaginary line where the ratio of road kill flips from possums towards coons.   Their fur is pretty thin.   Had one under the deck a few winters ago that would literally shiver as he scavenged bird seed.  Missing a handful of toes, some bits of ear, and the end of his tail was black from frostbite.   About 20 years ago, I plowed my first armadillo in southern Missouri with the car.   Now it's about 50/50 on roadkill whether its a possum or a dillo.   They made their way up from Texas I guess.
    •   They have been hanging in there for the last couple decades in tropical Rochester area.   
    •   Too many variables. Impact strength, airflow setting and wear factors, air pressure variance,  lubrication habits, and of course the operator. It's very easy to exceed what the stick is rated for. Not break the lugs next time tight, but maybe a free brake pulsation 2-3 months down the road after the rotor is distorted and runout turns into thickness variation.  I always use a size smaller with the impact turned all the way down and frequently have less than a 1/8 of a turn left to go. I will even tailor how heavy I pull the trigger and ALWAYS follow up with a torque wrench.     Left hand lugs was an old Mopar trick. Knowing about them does date you!                   
    • Had a 69 Dodge Charger that had left and right hand lug nuts. Was pretty much a Dodge/Chrysler thing
    • Broom and shovel then Shop Vac in the spring if it's real heavy. Or leaf blower to spread out on the yard to break down if lighter. The cardinals are preferring the white millet on the ground right now 3 to 1 where I live. The other feed I am using is sunflower and safflower. 
    • I did that with some stale Christmas almonds, Blue jays found them and took all off them and deposited in the crotches of nearby tree branches. The nuts weren't out long, then they were gone.
    •   You could use your breaker bar now and re-torque while you are at home. 
    • We launched at Normana  and started on the NSST ,,, That wasnt groomed yet so turned around and hit the RR trail to Fish lake ,,, Met the groomer heading east ,,, Gave him some time to do more grooming and had nice smooth ribbon like trail for the trip back    NSST was groomed when we got back to the trailer 
  • MWO