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Rusty rotors on 2004 Silverado

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I have a 2004 Silverado crew cab. I heard a scraping noise while making right hand curves. I took the left rear tire of and found the outer edge of the rotors are severely rusted. So much that it is affecting the available braking surface. Has anyone else experienced this? Is there a service bulletin or recall on this. The pads still have plenty on them but the rotor is shot.

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Everybody with a Chevy truck with rear disk will reply yes, they have they same problem!

Two things happen,

1. The bracket that the pads mount into has rusted under the metal shims pinching/seizing the pads. There have been many times I have had to use a hammer to pound the old pads out. I have a bench top sandblaster that I use to clean these up with then I apply a thin layer of High temp 3M brake lube (copper colored anti-seize looking stuff) and finally reinstall the shims over that. The pads should slide freely once this is done.

2. The caliper slide is frozen in the bracket. This will also usually result in a worn out inner pad and plenty of friction material left on the outboard pad. Typically the entire surface of the outside of the rotor will be rusted up also.

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I have a 2000 Silverado and replaced the rotors due to rust. $600 at the shop or $124 do it your self with China made rotors. Took me about 2 or 3 hours. There is a lot of talk about this on the net. But Chevy has not had a recall.

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It's been a while since I did my own brakes but I have a friend who's a good wrench to help me. Can anyone recommend a brand of rotor to look at and ones to stay away from.

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Just in the process of replacing the front pads on my '04 Silverado and have one question... Aside from the fact that the bolts that hold the caliper and the carrige together have a T-55 torx head, is there anything special about removing these bolts? I cant seem to get them to budge. They are really torqued down. Any tips would be greatly appreciated...

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The place I deal with has Raybestos rotors in a 3 different grades. If you can get them through your supplier I would use either the mid grade or premium one but not the cheapest one. If you do a lot of heavy braking and trailering go with the premium one, otherwise the mid grade will be fine for average use.

Quote:
Aside from the fact that the bolts that hold the caliper and the carrige together have a T-55 torx head, is there anything special about removing these bolts?
A good torx socket and more grunt. (maybe a pair of knuckle saver gloves just in case)

They can be tough, but most will come loose. I've had a few that needed some "help" from means I won't recommend.

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Yep, just some good old fashioned muscle is usually what's necessary to break them free. grin Gloves for your knuckles is a good idea too.

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GM likes to use a lot of blue locktight on all there brake stuff. A half inch impact (Ingersoll Rand TNT) with a socket and adapter that can handle it and they come right out!

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Allright, I will keep at it. The first attempt yesterday ended up in a busted T-55 bit... I am going to see if I can find the beefier 1/2 drive version. The impact was my first attempt, then I went directly to the breaker bar. The torx bit actually sheared lengthwise as I was trying to bust it loose. Now I remember why I love brake work...

They are normal bolts right? Not lefthand threads or anything odd like that?

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Yah they're right hand threads, but you're probably looking at them backwards. I had to use a breaker bar and a pipe extension and that was after letting the Kroil work over night.

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Yeah, like Jer said, I suspect its the locktight and tnd the fact they have never been off before... I ordered up a new T-55 which should be here in a few days, I just wanted to make sure I wasnt missing something obvious.

Thanks guys!

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