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Bug spray on graph


Heartman

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Lowrance recommends windex WITHOUT ammonia for the screens... might work for the housing too? But what I have found works the best for water spots and pretty much anything on the screen and housing is running my finger under hot water, then put a TINY drop of dawn on my finger and rubbing the screen that way, (add hot water as needed).... dry by blotting with soft paper towel and buff clean with the lowrance buffing towel that came with your unit. I have had my 334 for 3 years and it looks brand new to me!

Good luck.

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I agree with WG, the spots are permanent. I had them on one of my sonars too and never been able to remove them.

I learned to be careful when spraying since that incident

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Try this stuff. I've used it on all kinds of things and I'll say it will get the spots off. It's silly how good Koala Plastic Polish works. I used it on my old 350A that I thought was hopeless, and ended up with a like new screen. It was hopeless berfore I tried it, and it worked.

[Note from admin: Please read forum policy before posting again. Thank you.]

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Be happy you just got the over spray on the housing, not the screen. The screen will stain permanently when exposed to insect sprays. Most all sprays can damage screens, be cautious.

If I use any bug spray in a boat, I make a point to cover my electronics with a rag or even my hat....just in case.

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I was a big sceptic (the developer is my SIL, I had to be) at first but have taken ALL the scratches off of the crystal on my watch(Omega, buy a crystal once), Made my old Gibson ES 350T look factory new and fresh, Took ALL of the haze off my 350A screen when it was 6 years old and made it look good as new, I guarentee you there was bug spray, Taken a lot scratches off of auto paint, I've cleaned head and tailights that looked like they were sand blasted to crystal clear. It has worked for me bunches. Every time I've used it has been a "what have I got to lose" situation.

[Note from admin: Please read forum policy before posting again. Thank you.]

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Thanks for the info, brother. Could you please pm me the actual product name the administrators deleted? Thanks a ton - I need some help here.

And administrators, FM policy, in this case, prevents good information from being shared among members. He's not trying to sell the product, just telling us that product X worked on his screen to remove scratches and bug spray damage - it seems as though it would be fairly innocuous to let the product name stand in this case. Sure, policy is policy, but in terms of shutting down good info shared among members, the policy really does us no good in a simple exchange of info like this.

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Thanks for the info, brother. Could you please pm me the actual product name the administrators deleted? Thanks a ton - I need some help here.

And administrators, FM policy, in this case, prevents good information from being shared among members. He's not trying to sell the product, just telling us that product X worked on his screen to remove scratches and bug spray damage - it seems as though it would be fairly innocuous to let the product name stand in this case. Sure, policy is policy, but in terms of shutting down good info shared among members, the policy really does us no good in a simple exchange of info like this.

Constrictive Criticism: I have to agree with the above on policy. It would be nice to see this policy changed as most people are looking for information.

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I have used Meguires Plastic Polish with great results on LCD screens, you can find this in the auto parts section of big box stores, or automotive stores. But ....... I don't know if it should be used on the newer TFT screens.

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I don't understand the how's or why's but it's my understanding that Meguires and the others fill very well but don't really repair. I tried a lot of stuff on my guitars years ago and none of the other "scratch repair" stuff worked right, the way I expected, I had to keep re applying to keep the look. The Koala Plastic Polish is different, it works better, Barry owned a body shop in a former life and that was when he developed it I think. Ya gotta know the guy, he should'a been a chemist.

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