Guests - If You want access to member only forums on HSO. You will gain access only when you Sign-in or Sign-Up on HotSpotOutdoors.

It's easy - LOOK UPPER right menu.

  • Announcements

    • Rick

      Members Only Fluid Forum View   08/08/2017

      Fluid forum view allows members only to get right to the meat of this community; the topics. You can toggle between your preferred forum view just below to the left on the main forum entrance. You will see three icons. Try them out and see what you prefer.   Fluid view allows you, if you are a signed up member, to see the newest topic posts in either all forums (select none or all) or in just your favorite forums (select the ones you want to see when you come to Fishing Minnesota). It keeps and in real time with respect to Topic posts and lets YOU SELECT YOUR FAVORITE FORUMS. It can make things fun and easy. This is especially true for less experienced visitors raised on social media. If you, as a members want more specific topics, you can even select a single forum to view. Let us take a look at fluid view in action. We will then break it down and explain how it works in more detail.   The video shows the topic list and the forum filter box. As you can see, it is easy to change the topic list by changing the selected forums. This view replaces the traditional list of categories and forums.   Of course, members only can change the view to better suit your way of browsing.   You will notice a “grid” option. We have moved the grid forum theme setting into the main forum settings. This makes it an option for members only to choose. This screenshot also shows the removal of the forum breadcrumb in fluid view mode. Fluid view remembers your last forum selection so you don’t lose your place when you go back to the listing. The benefit of this feature is easy to see. It removes a potential barrier of entry for members only. It puts the spotlight on topics themselves, and not the hierarchical forum structure. You as a member will enjoy viewing many forums at once and switching between them without leaving the page. We hope that fluid view, the new functionality is an asset that you enjoy .
  • RECEIVE THE GIFTS MEMBERS SHARE WITH YOU HERE...THEN...CREATE SOMETHING TO ENCHANT OTHERS THAT YOU WANT TO SHARE

    You know what we all love...

    When you enchant people, you fill them with delight and yourself in return. Have Fun!!!

Sign in to follow this  
Steve Bakken

wiring up new a/c unit

Recommended Posts

So we just replaced our a/c unit with a new one. Our HVAC guy has all of the plumbing taken care of but doesn't do the wiring. It just seems like a shame to have our electrician come all the way out for just five wires. It'll probably cost more to make the trip out than it will for the labor. The power wires are a no-brainer, but there are two blue wires coming from the unit, and a white and a red coming from the house, that I'm not exactly sure of. Is this something a fairly handy guy can handle, or am I treading in a professional's-only domain?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I think it depends on what is there already.

Seems I recall being told that there must be a disconnect switch put by the unit, and there must also be a 120V receptacle installed to facilitate power supply if needed for servicing, etc.

Don't know if all that is true, but it sticks in my head for some reason.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

The HVAC guy cannot by law do the electrical unless he holds an electrical licsense.

Kind of funny how you say "The power wires are a no-brainer, but there are two blue wires coming from the unit, and a white and a red coming from the house, that I'm not exactly sure of."

Not really a no brainer, huh? Spend the $100 bucks and get it done right.

Not to be a smart a@@ but I've seen to much of my trade given away here. Some things are best left to those that are in the know.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Awww, come on.....give out the info. It's not like there are people stealing your work.

I see your point, but it's a service call, nothing more.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

the two blue wires are the low voltage wires.

just hook them up to the two low voltage wires coming out of the house.

You do need a disconnect on the side if the house.

The line voltage should be on 24 hr. before you start the unit.

There is know way you can know if the unit has the correct charge if the unit

is not running.

The contractor should have told you the line voltage was not included.......

Id be looking for a different A/C man if I were you.

GOOD LUCK

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Thanks, fastkaw. In response to the idea of giving away "trade secrets", I completely understand where you're coming from, mnfishingguy. Having been in the boat repair business for over 20 years, it's difficult for me to give away free help and advise on the boats and motors forum. But, that's the whole purpose of these forums is to help and share information with fellow sportsmen. I've found that do-it-yourelfer's are going to tackle projects regardless of how much or how little professional advise that they get. I'd rather help these guys out so that they can have the satisfaction of getting their project done successfully. What I've found though, since I started moderating the forum is that our business has actually grown as a result because we're the first one these guys call and bring work to when they do have a project that's too much for them to handle. I would bet that Lawnmowerman and Powerstroke can attest to this as well. I'm not saying that I'm right and others are wrong, it's just my opinion and I thought that I'd throw it out there. smile

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Also, as I mentioned before, I think you need a GFI receptacle in (or within a certain distance of) that A/C disconnect switch. So, that will mean installing a separate 120 circuit from your service panel to power the receptacle.

I'm having a hard time finding a reference/confirmation of that because I don't have NEC code book. But, I'm almost positive that's what the electrician said when he hooked up a friend's new AC system.

EDIT: Just thinking, maybe the stuff I mentioned is only required in a new installation, and not in a replacement?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

This is DIY forum not to mention this whole site is based on sharing information. If you want to keep trades secrets, or fishing information to yourself thats up to you. Thankfully there are those that share, without that we might as well turn the lights off.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

They make a out door disconnect with a duplex built in. Works pretty slick.

unknown if is GFI or not.

You do need to run a separate 110v wire to it so I don't see any resin why

you couldn't make it GFI if needed.

I have know idea what your cods are in your state/county. In my county you need

a disconnect and that all.

All central A/C units need a out door disconnect..................

Regardless if the code says you need one or not. That my code..........

If you don't have one when I get there you will by the time I levee.

OR IM NOT TOCHEN IT.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Frank, I agree 100% with you but there is a difference between sharing information and telling people how to do it. You know, the difference (in this case) of "those are the low voltage stat wires" and "this wire to point A, this wire to point B,..." when by doing that I either am taking work away from myself or others in the trade.

I know that nobody is going to agree with me on this but that's how I feel. I'll help out a guy all I can but I can't see doing it to the point of taking food off the table any more. Work is getting pretty tight out there. Kind of like the difference between someone saying "15ft in the rock/sand transition" or giving out GPS coordinates.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I dont know if they need a 110v outside, Seems I always have to run an extension cord if I need power while servicing the outside unit.

Some techs are qualified to connect the wires to the unit, and some just refuse to do it.

As far as free trade secrets. I didnt know there were any "trade secrets". If you are afraid of loosing business by advising a DIYer, then advise them to hire a pro before they get hurt or do damage. I was taught to be a professional and make my customers happy and they will bring more business if I treat them fair and resonably. Sounds like most here are smart enough to do that.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I do agree with mnfishinguy, but it will never change. No offense, but people in general are very cheap, especially when it comes to easy labor jobs that they can possibly do themselves.

As for what I do, I figure, let them do it. Chances are after doing it once or twice, they will find out it's not as easy as they thought. Have had to help out DIY'ers before when it started raining on them and their "friends" didn't show up. We normally make sure they are paying a little more also. smile

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I dont know if they need a 110v outside, Seems I always have to run an extension cord if I need power while servicing the outside unit.

I think the receptacle is a somewhat newer (a couple Code revs ago??) requirement.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

thanks for that post surface tension! i was gonna say something

but i am not a regular type poster. if you check the poster in question, seems to me he was asking someone a question about

moving a A/C unit away from the house.. hmmm maybe wants a A/C

guy to give away trade secrets?

i am a RV tech and i try to answer every question that is asked

here. its all about trying to help your fellow sportsman.

sorry if i stepped over the FM line..

randy

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Nope, not looking for trade secrets, just looking to see if it was possible since I have never seen it done before. When it comes time to do it I'll hire it out, to another tradesman, and if you noticed on my question I didn't ask for anything specific, only if it could be done. I didn't ask for line size needed or if anything out of the ordinary would be needed, only if it was possible.

FYI, I have answered many, many questions but there is a difference in answering it and telling someone how to do it. There are lots of recources out there on how to do things, once you know what you have to do.

How come if someone where to ask where to fish on Mille Lacs the professional guides (who make their living off of what they know) won't give out there honey hole coordinates and the right technique for the time/day and thats acceptable but if I or someone else in the trades (who also makes their living off of what they know) decides not to give out the secrets and knowledge from years of experience anymore that's not acceptable? Doesen't seem fair to me.

This post got way off track and it's my fault and I apoligize for that.

Roofer brings up a great point, it's almost always more expensive to have someone come in and fix anothers mistakes than to have just hired it out in the first place. Again, I'll help out in any way I can, short of giving my work away.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

As far as free trade secrets. I didnt know there were any "trade secrets". If you are afraid of loosing business by advising a DIYer, then advise them to hire a pro before they get hurt or do damage. I was taught to be a professional and make my customers happy and they will bring more business if I treat them fair and resonably. Sounds like most here are smart enough to do that.

Read my first post, I suggested to hire it done. Lot's of trade secrets, mostly from having done things before and relating how to transfer what a guy has learned in the past to the task at hand. That and knowing what code rules apply in each situation, because the rules change alot depending on different things.

And yes, you need a GFCI protected receptacle within 25 feet of said unit.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

mnfishguy is right you do need a receptacle within the 25 feet distance, I was told that this was so the service people would have a power supply if they needed to work on it???

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

code smode he was just askin a simple question and now you have sucessfully made yourself look like a GREEDY contractor good job more work for someone else

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Ya Code is code if ya dont know it learn it then procede

Steve Balken good post! Good things come to good people!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

If you do the work yourself, it is not permited, and something goes wrong, house burns down, insurance laughs at you since it was not inspected. You have nothing, all to save a few bucks.

I don't really care if you do it yourself, but please pull a permit, have it inspected, and do it the right way. The inspector will ensure all the codes are followed.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I had mine installed by a company,Old one went out! They came out NO PERMITS involved did everything,weld lines install new A coil,charge lines and wire,NO INSPECTIONS Job all completed one company no hassles.2 yrs ago.County said no inspections required!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I had mine installed by a company,Old one went out! They came out NO PERMITS involved did everything,weld lines install new A coil,charge lines and wire,NO INSPECTIONS Job all completed one company no hassles.2 yrs ago.County said no inspections required!

Minnesota Department of Labor and Industry usually has Jurisdiction and not the county. You mite have been miss informed.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Originally Posted By: sparcebag
I had mine installed by a company,Old one went out! They came out NO PERMITS involved did everything,weld lines install new A coil,charge lines and wire,NO INSPECTIONS Job all completed one company no hassles.2 yrs ago.County said no inspections required!

Minnesota Department of Labor and Industry usually has Jurisdiction and not the county. You mite have been miss informed.

What would they have anything to do with,Mechanial,Electrical?? other than workcomp.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.
Sign in to follow this  



  • Your Responses - Share & Have Fun :)

    •   Sounds plausible to me.  Is the thickened footing in your mind the same as pouring the perimeter of the slab thicker?  We did an 8 inch perimeter around the 4 inch slab.
    • Yes. But on a post framed building the only think I ever see is a thickened footing and not a foundation to the frost line. A major benefit of post framing is that you install the posts below the frost line so the need for a concrete foundation below the frost line is not needed. If I am understanding the question correctly. 
    • FYI driveway approaches are on the public right of way, you may not block them, or place anything that can injure someone.   May a person park their own vehicle in their own driveway approach?
    • I think they’re more looking at the footings requirement, aren’t they?  Thus the reason for getting the poles below the frost line?   Its the township’s responsibility to figure this out and you have the right to ask them to cite the code they’re following.   I used to live in Isanti County and dealt with a building inspector from my township on the construction of my detached garage.  Things weren’t very strict to say the least.     We built everything by the current UBC code, so I’d suggest first getting a copy of the current version of that since this building will actually be your home.  Don’t take unnecessary shortcuts to save a few bucks up front.  You’ll eventually regret it.   Reading your plans for the slab, it sounds pretty good.  There are plenty of slab homes out there built the way you describe.  What you don’t want is movement.     I’m not an expert by any means but I think footings on your slab wouldn’t be a bad idea and sinking your poles that deep should be a requirement.  If you don’t do footings, at least pour your slab thicker on the perimeter to hold it better.    Your local Authority Having Jurisdiction (AHJ) can be more restrictive than code, but not less.  So if it’s defined in the UBC, you have to do at least that much.
    • I’ve personally been on both sides of this.   Used to love getting as much air as possible over driveways but I never understood gunning it on the other side after crossing.  I guess some are just mild adrenaline junkies.    I quit doing that for one, because it’s illegal, and two, not safe if the homeowner happens to be leaving or getting the mail at the time.   Now that I have a posted trail going over my driveway, I find it just rude, obnoxious and irritating to deal with 4 wheelers and sleds gunning it over the gravel and making ruts and eroding my base to the point of it being an expense to either plow and pack the class 5 back in place or spend the money to pave it.  I hate having to bounce over two ruts with my trailers and whatever I’m hauling in them too.   I think that’s the worst part for me.  Either jump it or be mellow on the throttle the entire way over.   I’ve seen trail groomers go around driveways before, making me wonder if that truly is a requirement or they were simply being courteous.  But I agree with knoppers, they should not drag over the driveway.  Maybe they think they’re taking the snow off for ya.  Call the people responsible for the trail and ask them for suggestions.  
    • If you want to get through ice fast and are going to re-tool for it completely, look at a Nils before making your final decision. 
    • I am fully aware of this as are most people.
    • some people are bad apples that give the sport a bad name, I as a snowmobiler have respect for driveways. FYI driveway approaches are on the public right of way, you may not block them, or place anything that can injure someone. trail groomers actually do you a favor by knocking down the bank, to keep it level. unless your groomer was not well trained, they will not groom over your driveway.
    • If code allows post frame for residential construction then by design you don't need a block foundation. 
    • Perfect that awnsers my question. Why spend $250 when I could spend $150 on a new lazer bit and cuts faster, it’s more durable but still about same weight and a chipper but. Really a no brainer. What are you seeing for drilling time with that 8 inch lazer?
  • MWO