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ocf1

Slop Fishing

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This place has been sorta slow lately so id figure we'd talk about some slop fishing. Just some general discussion about it like what techniques and stuff.

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Its heavy weed fishing. Lily pads, mats, heavy weed growth.

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ahhh, thanks. I actually tried getting into a weedy area on Big Marine Sunday, my trolling motor died, I think I blew the fuse on it. Is that where Jigs come in handy for the bass and also frogs?

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Ive used frogs in the past but I think im missing alot of bass sneaking around under the mats, whats the best way to get these fish?

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scum frogs suck there is no weight to them, use spro frogs. as for punching pads use the jig n pig or a florida rig, or peg your sinker and use a creature bait, make sure u have braid on though.

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I have no problem throwing scumfrogs, I've stuff a few BB's in them for weight and a little noise. I also have used a T-rigged curly tail worm and try to drag them on lily pads and then slowly pull them off and let them fall and wait about 15 seconds and repeat until its boatside. Watch your line when its falling any little twitch set the hook!!

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My favorite "slop" baits are sinking frog type lures, for me they are by far the most versatile in the slop. But I like popper mouth scum frogs in pads that have more holes in them and on the edges. Brush hogs, and jigncraw shook slowly in pads work good too. If under high skies and tough fishing conditions I usually deadstick and twitch heavy jigs in areas I know should have fish. Just make sure you have heavy duty equipment.

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Here is what i like to use when i'm fishing mats, 93% of the time i'm flipping into the mat and punching threw it. (a type of slop fishing)

3/8 up to 1 oz. flipping weights

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I've been having luck this past week up north and today in the metro fishing slop and pads with a strike king wild thang creature type bait. Texas rigged with a tru-tungsten wieght and your good to go!

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I like a frog, rage shad, or sluggo for slipping and slidding over mats and pads.

Jawbreaker spoons and Berkley blade dancer works well if you can get under or along the fringes.

Yo Yoing a jig flipped to pockets produces too, but I dont always have the patience for it so I revert to one of the above baits.

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5.5 inch Mizmo tube and one ounce weight in a slop pocket produced this one a week ago. I've almost always got one tied on. Won the tourney for me and my partner in Hawgz Series down here. Went 6.18 lbs. IMG_0908-1.jpg

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It helps to have at least 30lb braid and med-heavy rod. Those pads are tough and pencil reeds are tougher. Spro frogs are great but for 7.99 - OK I still buy them.

Creature baits in the pads - interesting. Do try to get away with the lightest weight possible. I'm mostly a frog guy in the pads. Senkos on the edges, but sometimes a 10" power worm and florida weight slips through the pads easy.

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Spro Frog mostly, flippin a jig plastic is close second, Texas Rigged Ring Fry or Magic Shad if there are holes to let them fall into,Jawbreaker occasionally, and 'secret' weapon is 10" Powerbait worm with small (1/16 usually) Water Gremlin bullet sinker crimped right at hook dragged slowly across mat and let fall into holes.

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Strike king makes a bunch of floating plastics that work great in addition to everything else named so far. I also love scum frogs and j/pig. Baby birds work great too! Just let em sit til they git bit!

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when the pads are a little more sparce, a willow leaf spinnerbait will work for those fish hanging under the pads. once they get too thick, you have to either punch or frog em'

i was a snagproof guy till the spros came out. love the bronzeye!

i saw a show as a kid where they were useing smithwick devils horses in the duckweed. it makes a mess, but it does work. i'd like to try a tube on a weighted worm hook.

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  • Your Responses - Share & Have Fun :)

    •   Sounds plausible to me.  Is the thickened footing in your mind the same as pouring the perimeter of the slab thicker?  We did an 8 inch perimeter around the 4 inch slab.
    • Yes. But on a post framed building the only think I ever see is a thickened footing and not a foundation to the frost line. A major benefit of post framing is that you install the posts below the frost line so the need for a concrete foundation below the frost line is not needed. If I am understanding the question correctly. 
    • FYI driveway approaches are on the public right of way, you may not block them, or place anything that can injure someone.   May a person park their own vehicle in their own driveway approach?
    • I think they’re more looking at the footings requirement, aren’t they?  Thus the reason for getting the poles below the frost line?   Its the township’s responsibility to figure this out and you have the right to ask them to cite the code they’re following.   I used to live in Isanti County and dealt with a building inspector from my township on the construction of my detached garage.  Things weren’t very strict to say the least.     We built everything by the current UBC code, so I’d suggest first getting a copy of the current version of that since this building will actually be your home.  Don’t take unnecessary shortcuts to save a few bucks up front.  You’ll eventually regret it.   Reading your plans for the slab, it sounds pretty good.  There are plenty of slab homes out there built the way you describe.  What you don’t want is movement.     I’m not an expert by any means but I think footings on your slab wouldn’t be a bad idea and sinking your poles that deep should be a requirement.  If you don’t do footings, at least pour your slab thicker on the perimeter to hold it better.    Your local Authority Having Jurisdiction (AHJ) can be more restrictive than code, but not less.  So if it’s defined in the UBC, you have to do at least that much.
    • I’ve personally been on both sides of this.   Used to love getting as much air as possible over driveways but I never understood gunning it on the other side after crossing.  I guess some are just mild adrenaline junkies.    I quit doing that for one, because it’s illegal, and two, not safe if the homeowner happens to be leaving or getting the mail at the time.   Now that I have a posted trail going over my driveway, I find it just rude, obnoxious and irritating to deal with 4 wheelers and sleds gunning it over the gravel and making ruts and eroding my base to the point of it being an expense to either plow and pack the class 5 back in place or spend the money to pave it.  I hate having to bounce over two ruts with my trailers and whatever I’m hauling in them too.   I think that’s the worst part for me.  Either jump it or be mellow on the throttle the entire way over.   I’ve seen trail groomers go around driveways before, making me wonder if that truly is a requirement or they were simply being courteous.  But I agree with knoppers, they should not drag over the driveway.  Maybe they think they’re taking the snow off for ya.  Call the people responsible for the trail and ask them for suggestions.  
    • If you want to get through ice fast and are going to re-tool for it completely, look at a Nils before making your final decision. 
    • I am fully aware of this as are most people.
    • some people are bad apples that give the sport a bad name, I as a snowmobiler have respect for driveways. FYI driveway approaches are on the public right of way, you may not block them, or place anything that can injure someone. trail groomers actually do you a favor by knocking down the bank, to keep it level. unless your groomer was not well trained, they will not groom over your driveway.
    • If code allows post frame for residential construction then by design you don't need a block foundation. 
    • Perfect that awnsers my question. Why spend $250 when I could spend $150 on a new lazer bit and cuts faster, it’s more durable but still about same weight and a chipper but. Really a no brainer. What are you seeing for drilling time with that 8 inch lazer?
  • MWO