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Dawkins

Rod/Reel & Line Suggestions

7 posts in this topic

Very new to fishing, just purchased a boat. For the most part I like to fish for crappie and sunfish using a slip bobber with typically live bait attached. My main concerns for a rod/reel is ability to cast far (for when I shore fish) and accurate. I also wish to get into fishing for walleye with lindy rig / live bait type rigs. I am looking for a good rod and spinning reel that will be good for both scenarios.

I do not mind spending money, I was looking at "st Croix" rods and read about them but afraid I am spending more then I need to.

I have no idea what type of reel or line to purchase, when I enter a store I am completely confused with all the options.

Please help me guys! =)

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I USE ST CROIX RODS 7.6 IN AND 7FT MEDIUM LITE IVE USED IT FOR FOR ALL KINDS ON FISH NEVER HAD A PROBLEM WITH THEM I USE A SPINNING REEL. I KNOW THEY COST A LOT OF MONEY BUT TO ME THEY ARE WORTH EVERY PENNY.

PACKRAT

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If ur using a baitcasting reel they say to use a rod that's about 7-7 1/2 feet to get better accuracy with less effort....I have a 6 1/2 foot medium action rod with an open spool reel that I use for pretty much everything.....I'd suggest buying a light action rod with a smaller reel to match for your pan fishing expeditions.....the light action in the rod allows to have a better fight with the fish where a medium action rod allows you to just pull the panfish in without getting a fight out of em....

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I would look for a rod at least 6.5' for casting. Check out these fine rod companies. They all will have exactly what you are looking for.

Limit creek rods

Midwest Rod & reel

Jason Mitchell rods

Thorne Bros.

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I have 1 setup that does everything you want, because I use it for exactly the same thing. G. Loomis PR 8400(7ft Walleye seris) teamed with a better 1500 or 2500 Shimano (mine is a Stradic 1500). Best all around panfish rod I have ever had and a great lighter lindy rod(kinda soft for big minnows) usually run 6# Trilene XL but can handle 8# too. Just a awesome bobber setup and super for casting weightless tubes and such. At least check out the rod if you get a chance before you purchase.

Good Luck, JJZ

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I would get a Limit creek rod and put a Pflueger President 6730 on it as a starter setup. That will catch and land you almost any fish in the lake.

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I've been giving this some thoughts and have been wondering about those 8'6" St Croix salmon rods. They'll work really well for long distance slipbobbering casting.

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    • BEFORE BEGINNING

      Before you begin, make sure you have a good strong battery and make sure it's charged up. If you have a bad or weak battery, you may want to replace it because if it doesn't crank good and strong, you are likely to get a low, inaccurate reading. Make sure your engine is warmed up to operating temperature(if possible). About 10 minutes of riding should do.

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      THE READING

      You will need to check your repair manual for your particular model for the correct compression specifications. See note below. Usually, an engine will run OK if it has at least 100 PSI of compression. Most engines will have somewhere between 100-250 and some as high as 300 PSI, depending on the engine. Sometimes they will run with under 100 PSI, but usually not very well. If you get a low reading, you can do a "wet test" to try to help determine the problem.

      If your reading is too high, then you probably have carbon built up on your piston and combustion chamber.

      NOTE: You may get a low reading on some engines because some engines have a decompressor assembly built into the camshaft. Check the service manual for your quad to see whether or not your quad has a decompressor assembly built into the cam.

      WET TEST

      If you got a low reading, pour about 1-2 teaspoons of clean motor oil down into the cylinder through the spark plug hole and do the compression test again. If your reading increases, then your rings or cylinder walls are probably worn. If your reading doesn't increase, then it's probably your valves. You could have a bent valve, you may have leaky valve seats, or your valve clearance may not be adjusted properly. Also, low compression can be caused by a blown head gasket.

      CAUSES OF LOW COMPRESSION

      *Worn piston rings or worn or damaged cylinder walls
      *Leaking valves
      *Valve clearance not properly set
      *Blown head gasket

      CAUSE OF HIGH COMPRESSION (stock engines)

      *Carbon buildup in combustion chamber and on piston

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      This is about all I can think of. I hope I didn't leave anything out and I hope this helps everyone with their compression tests.
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