Guests - If You want access to member only forums on HSO. You will gain access only when you sign-in or Sign-Up on HotSpotOutdoors.

It's easy - LOOK UPPER right menu.

Sign in to follow this  
Followers 0
Jeremy airjer W

Sebring evap core replacemant

9 posts in this topic

Chrysler evap cores are always fun! This was the first one I have done on a Sebring. It took me about 8 hrs to complete. Just thought you might like to see how these are done?

This is what I need to replace, the A/C Evaporator Core.

sebevap.jpg

Step one remove the intake plenum.

sebintake.jpg

To get at the heater hoses. There are two, only the top one is visible.

sebhoses.jpg

This is the dash as it looks normally

sebstart.jpg

The dash with the a pillar trim, forward dash trim panel, Side panels, radio, HVAC control head, center counsel, glove box, knee panel, floor ducts, electrical connectors, and steering wheel removed.

sebdashapart.jpg

The dash rotated back and resting on the front seats.

sebdashout.jpg

Finally the HVAC assembly is accessible!

sebhvacin.jpg

A dozen screws to replace the evap core in the assembly and then reinstall.

sebhvac.jpg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I'd scrap the ac and roll down the windows.

Top would be down all the time if it were mine grin

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

These are a major pain and the same time, a good money maker. The first one always has a learning curve (I thought they paided around 6.0-6.5, but this could have been warr. time or I could be way off). How much did it pay Jer?

Down at RCP, we had a little guy who did these day in and day out (warr. and customer pay). It became gravy to him. He had it down to about 2.5 to 3.0 hours by the time he was hooking up the A/C Machine.

Great post Airjer smile.

If anyone tries this, let us know how it goes.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Book time is 4.6 hours. It took me about an hour to find one hidden bolt that secured the assembly to the dash frame.

The final bill was around $1,400. It sure blew cold when I was done!!! grin

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I swear back when I used to book these jobs out, they used to pay much more. When the learning curve is figured out, even none factory guides drop time I have found.

Good you took these images. You can use them for ref. next time. Just a basic run threw I think would jog the mind.

If I remember, the secrete trick/tool was on of those 6"-7" Phillips screw drive tips and a cordless drill grin. It may have been used for that screw that gave you trouble.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I have that phillips bit in my blue point cordless!! The hidden bolt was behind the air duct cowling that provided flow to the center ducts. It was impossible to see with the duct in place. No mention of that in the useless directions. There where three bolts that held the cowling in place and then access to the 10mm head bolt was possible.

As far as tools anybody could do it. A stubby phillips, regular sized phillips or cordless screwdriver, A 1/4" ratchet, 10 mm deep socket, 8mm deep socket, A 3/8" ratchet, 12mm shallow swivel, 12 mm regular socket, 13mm regular socket, two disconnect tools for the a/c lines (the only thind the average guy would not have but are inexpensive and available at better parts/tool stores), a pair of pliers, a 16mm wrench, a 19mm wrench, and a 3/8" torque wrench was all that was needed

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

boy do i love working on the chryslers. had the pleasure to work on a 300m last week to do a ps pump for a few dollars more they could allow an extra 2 inches to get the mounting bolts out instead increase the time to remove the fan assembly. gotta admit wonder what goes thru the big wig engineers of some vehichles. LOL

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Wow.

I'd scrap the ac and roll down the windows.

I'd scrap more than the a/c............

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.
Sign in to follow this  
Followers 0



  • Posts



    • BEFORE BEGINNING

      Before you begin, make sure you have a good strong battery and make sure it's charged up. If you have a bad or weak battery, you may want to replace it because if it doesn't crank good and strong, you are likely to get a low, inaccurate reading. Make sure your engine is warmed up to operating temperature(if possible). About 10 minutes of riding should do.

      First, take out the spark plug and thread in the adapter for the compression tester. Make sure you have the correct size adapter for your particular ATV. Slide your kill switch to the "off" position. Some ATVs won't crank over with the kill switch in the "off" position, so if yours is like this, then you will need to either unhook your ignition coil or ground the end of the spark plug wire to a good ground. You can use a jumper wire with alligator clips on each end to ground it. Next, make sure the throttle is in the wide open position. You can either hold the throttle lever with your thumb or you may be able to tape it or use a zip tie to fasten it to your handlebars to hold it in the wide open position. If you don't have the throttle in the wide open position, you will probably get too low of a reading. Also, if you are testing a newly rebuilt engine, the engine needs to have been run for, at least, 30 or 40 minutes or you will probably get too low of a reading.

      NOTE: Before you begin with the actual test, make sure the threaded adapter is screwed in good and isn't leaking any air out around it.

      ACTUAL TESTING

      With the throttle in the wide open position, push the start button and crank the engine over until the hand on the gauge stops moving. Each time the engine turns over the hand should raise a little more until it reaches the maximum compression of the engine. When it stops, that is your compression reading. This usually takes no more than 10 seconds. Try to avoid cranking an engine for more than 10 seconds at a time as this is hard on the starter and the battery. Now, push the relief valve on your compression gauge and that will reset the hand back to zero. It's a good ideal to repeat the test a couple or three times to make sure you get an accurate reading. On kick start models, it will be the same procedure, but obviously you will be kicking it over instead of using a start button. Worn piston rings and cylinder walls will increase the number of strokes it takes to reach the maximum reading. If you're kicking, it could possibly take as many as 10-20 kicks to get the highest reading.

      THE READING

      You will need to check your repair manual for your particular model for the correct compression specifications. See note below. Usually, an engine will run OK if it has at least 100 PSI of compression. Most engines will have somewhere between 100-250 and some as high as 300 PSI, depending on the engine. Sometimes they will run with under 100 PSI, but usually not very well. If you get a low reading, you can do a "wet test" to try to help determine the problem.

      If your reading is too high, then you probably have carbon built up on your piston and combustion chamber.

      NOTE: You may get a low reading on some engines because some engines have a decompressor assembly built into the camshaft. Check the service manual for your quad to see whether or not your quad has a decompressor assembly built into the cam.

      WET TEST

      If you got a low reading, pour about 1-2 teaspoons of clean motor oil down into the cylinder through the spark plug hole and do the compression test again. If your reading increases, then your rings or cylinder walls are probably worn. If your reading doesn't increase, then it's probably your valves. You could have a bent valve, you may have leaky valve seats, or your valve clearance may not be adjusted properly. Also, low compression can be caused by a blown head gasket.

      CAUSES OF LOW COMPRESSION

      *Worn piston rings or worn or damaged cylinder walls
      *Leaking valves
      *Valve clearance not properly set
      *Blown head gasket

      CAUSE OF HIGH COMPRESSION (stock engines)

      *Carbon buildup in combustion chamber and on piston

      NOTE: Compression testing is a good way to keep track or "gauge" the wear in your engine. When you first get your ATV or when you rebuild the engine in your ATV, you can do a compression test and then later on, you can do them periodically. This will help you determine the wear in your engine each time you do a compression test and will guide you in knowing when your engine needs rebuilding.

      This is about all I can think of. I hope I didn't leave anything out and I hope this helps everyone with their compression tests.
    • As dumb as this sounds how is this done?
    • Try a compression check. And make sure the choke is opening all the way.
    • They are not the best out their but for the price and your average person not too bad I guess, Its going to send lead to where its pointed. This is probably what is going to happen he is going to buy a package shoot it for awhile then start upgrading everything to how he wants it and it is going to end up costing way more than if he just built one himself how he wants it.  
    • Hello, well I convinced my brother in-law to pick up my buddies old 1980 185 although pretty sure he said it was bored out to a 200? Here is the deal it's been sitting for a solid 8 years. I know it ran fine before. Not the delema-----   It starts right up (he bought a new carb odd amazon) although it sounds like a jet with high rpms. Looked at the throttle cable that's fine. Floats are fine. So he plugged this hole in the air filter and got it to idle down although when he hit the gas wouldn't get any power. Read a few things online and they tell you to just bypass the filter box and all that so back to amazon we went to get one of those filters that mount right up to the carb and it's still the same issue..   I just haven't seen anything like this? Do you guys have any thoughts or tricks that we/he could try?! Thanks in advance
    • Hi Everyone,  I'm looking into buying my first true fish finder and I'm a little perplex with the mapping card situation.  I'm looking at Humminbird Helix 5's and 7's.  I'm drawn to the autochart feature.  From my understanding, you can record 8 hours of charting onto the internal storage, but, is there any native mapping included on the unit or do I absolutely have to get some sort of mapping chip, zerolines or lake master, or navionics?  Can I store data on a blank SD card?  I've been researching this a lot and haven't found any conclusive answers. Thanks everyone!
    • Saul Good, Man.....  LOL 
    •   When do the not so rare Highjack birds show up?  Oh ah. 
  • Our Sponsors