Guests - If You want access to member only forums on HSO. You will gain access only when you sign-in or Sign-Up on HotSpotOutdoors.

It's easy - LOOK UPPER right menu.

Sign in to follow this  
Followers 0
Milton

Lowrance repair help

11 posts in this topic

I have a Lowrance X102 depth finder with problems. Basically, the unit works OK at slow speeds but loses the bottom at high speed 20 MPH or greater, especially greater than 20' deep. It also has never graphed fish well. Very spotty. I have a Lund 1800 Fisherman. I have tried to reposition the transducer numerous times paying attention to the depth and angle of it. It is positioned about 18" to the right of motor between the rivits.

Is there a place in the Minneapolis area where I can bring the boat in with the unit attached and have them fix my problem? I am wondering if I have a bad unit or transducer.

Just returned from Lake Trout fishing in Canada and wanted to throw the unit overboard because it was bad all week.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

If it works at slow speeds but not at fast speeds it is probably not your head unit.

The transducer is a possible culprit, either that it's going bad or that the mounting location is not very good. One thing you can try is tilting the back down slightly and the front up slightly (this is NOT what they show in the book) but what this does is give a smooth flow of water over the face of the transducer and that helps keep the signal at high speeds.

Another possible culprit is electrical interference. It's amazing but sometimes moving power and/or transducer cables as little as an inch will clean up some problems like this. I think the best thing to do is to try to loosen and seperate your wires as much as possible, maybe even running a temporary set of power leads directly to your battery (not tucked up out of sight) to see if that improves how the unit performs. If it does, then go slow and be careful tucking the wires out of sight, to try to avoid the interference.

I don't know of any place you can take the unit to have it tested. Good luck getting it resolved.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Thanks for the quick reply. I tried changing the angle of the transducer several times, going one click at a time and that didn't help. I haven't tried the interference issue because I'm not good at electrical issues and it sounds like trial by error but it might my next option. Beyond that, maybe I'll call the factory and see if they can test the transducer.

Thanks again.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I had that problem with mine too.I was losing bottom at high and low speeds frequently and getting eratic readings and sometimes it would shut down when i tried to go to menu or zoom .I ended up getting some good wire and wiring direct to the battery instead of using the panel.It has worked great ever since.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Try it again using a its own battery and route the ducer cable away from other electrical wires first. If that doesn't work I'd say the ducer is bad. It might read bottom but it'll do so without clear and crisp definition. Marking targets is impossible. A new ducer will make a night and day difference.

This has become a common problem with LEI ducers.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I have a 332c and I loose the bottom at high speed. It works fine at slow to 1/4 throttle. I think it is because the transducer is positioned wrong, and it is cavitating. Try moving the transducer. I am

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Had the same issue on my 102c. Replaced transducer all is working now. Might be a bad transducer yours seems to have the exact same issues I had.

I to tried all the other options. Just a bad transducer.

Mike

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Thanks again for all the advice. I spent 1/2 the day today repositioning my transducer (in case of cavitation due to rivits on bottom of boat) and repositioning my transducer cable, moving it away from the main power cable and other wiring. When I get a chance to test it, I'll let you know if it helped. If not, I agree that it must be the transducer.

Milton

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I had the same problem on my 102C. Contacted Lowrance and they sent me a new transducer (under warranty) everthing works great now. Like you I spent lots of time monkeying around trying to figgure out what was wrong.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

same problems with lcx 25c. cuts out at stationary(rarely),more so at medium and high speeds. screen lights up with solid colors when it loses bottom. digital will consistently read 2.2 and 2.3. still shows bottom contour correctly sometimes while reading 2.2 / 2.3

here is a list of things i have been told to try

reset unit (see manual- soft reset will keep waypoints etc)

clean connections with rubbing alcohol and blow out with compressor

check position of prongs on connections

angle of transducer

scratches on transducer

hook up different lowrance unit to see if it transducer or cables

turn off all other power that may cause interference

the only thing i haven't tried yet is moving my cables around. bouncing may have caused cables to move and cause interference

hoping to avoid new trandsucer

hopefully will get on water soon to try

any other suggestions?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Take the boat to fishlectronics in columbia heights.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.
Sign in to follow this  
Followers 0



  • Posts

    • I apologize if that came out wrong. The idea might very well be the best route to go. It's just that over the past 25 years or so I have seen many attempts to save a dollar that cost a buck and a half to do lol.    Here are my two cents. If you have a slab and you want to pour on top of it while keeping the same footprint that sounds pretty doable and could probably save some money if you don't have to change drain lines, run water, heat runs, electrical etc into the slab.   If you intend to tie into the existing slab and run zones of pex across the joint and have the new and old floors end up at the same elevation it still can be done. Some contractors will not want to mess with tying into and raising the elevation of the slabs and will prefer to start from scratch especially if you as the homeowner want them to warranty the finished product.  The critical thing would be to use enough rebar drilled into the old slab and have enough compaction and sufficient footings to make sure the slabs stay where they are without settling. That would make all kinds of problems with the pex.    Hopefully that response came across better.
    • It'll be interesting to see if the team plays a little harder in front of a different goalie. 
    • Hawg, I'm with you on this one !
    • Check and see if you have a video output on you device. You may be able to record to a digital device.
    • Just use plain old spray paint in a can. I've done it many many times and seems to stick really nice. Nothing special either I can't even tell you the brand because I have no clue. But as mentioned doing 2-3 light coats helps.
    • no expert here, but heat doesn't rise. heat radiates in the direction of least resistance (R value). warm air or water rises because it is less dense than colder air or water.  If you don't insulate you will be heating the ground under your cabin and the earth is a very large heat sink $$$. get some info from an expert in the radiant field as far as tube diameter, spacing, water temp, manifolds, length of runs, and so on. it varies on amount of windows (solar) ceiling height and room type (bed, bath, living area,  storage etc.). once you pour over the tubing you get to live with it. I did my own Home 15 years ago and got some good advise (wish I would have taken it all)
    • Sonar works from above, cameras need to be submerged. What am I missing here?
    • I've also had good luck spray painting PVC.  Biggest thing I found is to do lots of light coats, the PVC makes the paint want to run in a hurry.
    • I believe you can do this with the Lowrance HDS 9 and above.
    • I'll go with another loss in overtime.
  • Our Sponsors