Guests - If You want access to member only forums on HSO. You will gain access only when you sign-in or Sign-Up on HotSpotOutdoors.

It's easy - LOOK UPPER right menu.

Sign in to follow this  
Followers 0
luckystiff

Power problems?

8 posts in this topic

I need some help to figure out a power problem that I've been experiencing. When I run my livewell or bilge pump with the motor shut off, it has been shorting out my 350A. Does this mean my battery is losing it's charge or could it possibly be another problem. It doesn't happen when my big motor is running, so it makes me think the battery.
Any help is appreciated.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Surface,
I charged the battery and am still having the problem, could it possibly be a short in the wiring? This has me puzzled?
Thanks for any suggestions!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Check all of your connections, if they are corroded it will do the same thing. Check the connections inside your fuse also, the fuse that's inside the red tube. This will get corroded after time, there are two plates that will need to be cleaned. If you take your depth finder off when done I would check the female end of your power cord, spray some wd 40 in it if it looks corroded.

[This message has been edited by Fishin'Bemidji (edited 09-05-2002).]

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

What do you mean it is shorting out? Are sparks flying out of it or does it just lose power. If the screen becomes scrambled it could be interference from the other accessories. It should run on as little as 10 volts which is not enough to allow the engine to turn over. If it loses power it would seem to be a loose or corroded connection as mentioned above. Good luck.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Well if its a good battery at a full charge I would check all connections like the others said. The fact that it doesnt do it when the motor is running still makes me suspect the battery. I dont remember if the 350 has a low voltage shutoff. I guess I would look at the the power connection on the back of the sounder. You could try bending one of the prongs a hair WITHOUT braking it off.
Hey KWKFSH the kayak was a big hit with all the kids. I have to stand in line to use it.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Surface Tension, Glad to here it worked out good for you. I figured it was better for it to be used than to collect dust here. You will just have to tell the kids that you just noticed a serious design flaw and they had better not use it until you check it out thoroughly!!! kwkfsh.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Thanks to everyone for their ideas. I have checked the connections to the battery and they seem fine, no corrosion, but I did have a bent pin about a month ago, my guess is that its causing the problem. Anyone know where you can get new pins for a 350A? Is there a store that carries them, or do I have to send the whole unit into Lowrance?
Thanks again to everyone!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.
Sign in to follow this  
Followers 0



  • Posts

    • Another disaster. I tried making relatively safe picks, and bombed. I have gone from the top 60 after two events all the way down to just over the 90th percentile. I need to just go with my gut
    • that is what we were thinking too.
    • Live link.   http://www.dnr.state.mn.us/features/webcams/falconcam/index.html      


    • BEFORE BEGINNING

      Before you begin, make sure you have a good strong battery and make sure it's charged up. If you have a bad or weak battery, you may want to replace it because if it doesn't crank good and strong, you are likely to get a low, inaccurate reading. Make sure your engine is warmed up to operating temperature(if possible). About 10 minutes of riding should do.

      First, take out the spark plug and thread in the adapter for the compression tester. Make sure you have the correct size adapter for your particular ATV. Slide your kill switch to the "off" position. Some ATVs won't crank over with the kill switch in the "off" position, so if yours is like this, then you will need to either unhook your ignition coil or ground the end of the spark plug wire to a good ground. You can use a jumper wire with alligator clips on each end to ground it. Next, make sure the throttle is in the wide open position. You can either hold the throttle lever with your thumb or you may be able to tape it or use a zip tie to fasten it to your handlebars to hold it in the wide open position. If you don't have the throttle in the wide open position, you will probably get too low of a reading. Also, if you are testing a newly rebuilt engine, the engine needs to have been run for, at least, 30 or 40 minutes or you will probably get too low of a reading.

      NOTE: Before you begin with the actual test, make sure the threaded adapter is screwed in good and isn't leaking any air out around it.

      ACTUAL TESTING

      With the throttle in the wide open position, push the start button and crank the engine over until the hand on the gauge stops moving. Each time the engine turns over the hand should raise a little more until it reaches the maximum compression of the engine. When it stops, that is your compression reading. This usually takes no more than 10 seconds. Try to avoid cranking an engine for more than 10 seconds at a time as this is hard on the starter and the battery. Now, push the relief valve on your compression gauge and that will reset the hand back to zero. It's a good ideal to repeat the test a couple or three times to make sure you get an accurate reading. On kick start models, it will be the same procedure, but obviously you will be kicking it over instead of using a start button. Worn piston rings and cylinder walls will increase the number of strokes it takes to reach the maximum reading. If you're kicking, it could possibly take as many as 10-20 kicks to get the highest reading.

      THE READING

      You will need to check your repair manual for your particular model for the correct compression specifications. See note below. Usually, an engine will run OK if it has at least 100 PSI of compression. Most engines will have somewhere between 100-250 and some as high as 300 PSI, depending on the engine. Sometimes they will run with under 100 PSI, but usually not very well. If you get a low reading, you can do a "wet test" to try to help determine the problem.

      If your reading is too high, then you probably have carbon built up on your piston and combustion chamber.

      NOTE: You may get a low reading on some engines because some engines have a decompressor assembly built into the camshaft. Check the service manual for your quad to see whether or not your quad has a decompressor assembly built into the cam.

      WET TEST

      If you got a low reading, pour about 1-2 teaspoons of clean motor oil down into the cylinder through the spark plug hole and do the compression test again. If your reading increases, then your rings or cylinder walls are probably worn. If your reading doesn't increase, then it's probably your valves. You could have a bent valve, you may have leaky valve seats, or your valve clearance may not be adjusted properly. Also, low compression can be caused by a blown head gasket.

      CAUSES OF LOW COMPRESSION

      *Worn piston rings or worn or damaged cylinder walls
      *Leaking valves
      *Valve clearance not properly set
      *Blown head gasket

      CAUSE OF HIGH COMPRESSION (stock engines)

      *Carbon buildup in combustion chamber and on piston

      NOTE: Compression testing is a good way to keep track or "gauge" the wear in your engine. When you first get your ATV or when you rebuild the engine in your ATV, you can do a compression test and then later on, you can do them periodically. This will help you determine the wear in your engine each time you do a compression test and will guide you in knowing when your engine needs rebuilding.

      This is about all I can think of. I hope I didn't leave anything out and I hope this helps everyone with their compression tests.
    • As dumb as this sounds how is this done?
    • Try a compression check. And make sure the choke is opening all the way.
    • They are not the best out their but for the price and your average person not too bad I guess, Its going to send lead to where its pointed. This is probably what is going to happen he is going to buy a package shoot it for awhile then start upgrading everything to how he wants it and it is going to end up costing way more than if he just built one himself how he wants it.  
    • Hello, well I convinced my brother in-law to pick up my buddies old 1980 185 although pretty sure he said it was bored out to a 200? Here is the deal it's been sitting for a solid 8 years. I know it ran fine before. Not the delema-----   It starts right up (he bought a new carb odd amazon) although it sounds like a jet with high rpms. Looked at the throttle cable that's fine. Floats are fine. So he plugged this hole in the air filter and got it to idle down although when he hit the gas wouldn't get any power. Read a few things online and they tell you to just bypass the filter box and all that so back to amazon we went to get one of those filters that mount right up to the carb and it's still the same issue..   I just haven't seen anything like this? Do you guys have any thoughts or tricks that we/he could try?! Thanks in advance
    • Hi Everyone,  I'm looking into buying my first true fish finder and I'm a little perplex with the mapping card situation.  I'm looking at Humminbird Helix 5's and 7's.  I'm drawn to the autochart feature.  From my understanding, you can record 8 hours of charting onto the internal storage, but, is there any native mapping included on the unit or do I absolutely have to get some sort of mapping chip, zerolines or lake master, or navionics?  Can I store data on a blank SD card?  I've been researching this a lot and haven't found any conclusive answers. Thanks everyone!
  • Our Sponsors