Guests - If You want access to member only forums on HSO. You will gain access only when you sign-in or Sign-Up on HotSpotOutdoors.

It's easy - LOOK UPPER right menu.

Sign in to follow this  
Followers 0
Shwangman

Chairs in blinds

13 posts in this topic

How many of you guys use a chair in a blind and if so what type or brand.

Thanks

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I've tried one of those bag chairs from Fleet Farm which are really comfortable but take up way too much room for archery hunting, probably work ok for rifle. I just use an Ameristep (from Fleet) 3 leg stool that swivels and has adjustable legs. I know Double Bull makes a chair especially for blinds that I think runs about $30.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I'd recommend getting one that does not have the individual legs, as they tend to sink into softer ground. The problem that I've had with some of them (besides the individual legs) is that they are too short for me. A five gallon bucket with the swivel lid works surprisingly well.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

ya double bull makes a blind chair. they work perfectly. nice and light weight, compact, and they are comfortable to sit on all day, and they are at a perfect height. i know cabela's sell them or you can order them from the primos HSOforum. since they now own double bull.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Gander sells a 3 legged chair similar to the DB for about $20. They are perfect. For a long sit, the back on these chairs are a must IMO.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Thanks guys for the good response. I heading down to EP tonight in search of one.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

We've built a number of raised blinds with walls and roofs. I aquired several freebee swivel office chairs with arm rests. we put down carpeting in the stands to muffle the noise of the chair movement and you can rest your rifle on the arm rests in front of you. It makes it comfortable enough to stay in the stands when others are getting up, wandering around, and kicking up the deer.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Mills has some nice ones for 5 bucks. I picked up 6. no arm rest. perfect for hunting'\.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I backpack my ground blind in, while carrying a five gallon

pail with a swivel seat to sit on. I find it adequate for

both gun and bow. I don't shoot off it. I practice,and shoot

from the kneeling position.

The pail is nice cause it holds other items. It is virtually

silent when you SLOWLY scout the different shot zones you

have it set up on. It is also just the right height while

sitting in my blind. My eyes are just level with the fabric

I have zipped the window open to, and I am aligned likewise

when I SLOWLY shift down off the pail and get into my shooting

position. The only thing I miss not having, is a backrest.

I don't have carpeting yet... I have been known to tote along

a Buddy heater. (worth every effort BTW!!)

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

If you leave your blind (s) in the same spot on private land, nothing is more comfortable and silent in my opinion than a hard plastic lawn chair. Makes sitting all day during the rut much easier and comfortable. Just don't fall asleep!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I agree. I just clean the ground inside the blind so nothing could make any noise when I move the chair if needed.

Its not that far off now. North dakota opens in a month.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

It's exciting. I watched a nice buck in velvet leap across the road a half mile from one of my main spots this morning. Re: the comfortable chair, I need to adhere to the golden rule that has been the thorn in my side the past few years. Stay put during late October/early November. I have missed on on some good opportunities, jumping deer on the way to my blinds that I could have probably had a shot at if I just stayed put instead of going for lunch, etc.

Also, per the blind, bring an empty plastic bottle for, er, you know what. I have screwed up chances -- watched deer leap out of the brush or from behind trees I didn't know were there -- by unzipping the blind door with a LOUD ZIIIIIIIIIIIP and then watched them bound away. It only took me once, er, twice to learn this lesson.

Finally, one more lesson I've learned, don't overhunt before primetime. That is, if deer activity doesn't pick up to your liking until late October/first half of November, don't hunt too much until you're going to be encountering the deer/amount of deer you want. Otherwise, you're allowing the deer to get to know you and your stands/blinds and the biggie, my point, you get sick and tired of sitting for so long and are less apt to do so later into the season, when the going is good.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.
Sign in to follow this  
Followers 0



  • Posts



    • BEFORE BEGINNING

      Before you begin, make sure you have a good strong battery and make sure it's charged up. If you have a bad or weak battery, you may want to replace it because if it doesn't crank good and strong, you are likely to get a low, inaccurate reading. Make sure your engine is warmed up to operating temperature(if possible). About 10 minutes of riding should do.

      First, take out the spark plug and thread in the adapter for the compression tester. Make sure you have the correct size adapter for your particular ATV. Slide your kill switch to the "off" position. Some ATVs won't crank over with the kill switch in the "off" position, so if yours is like this, then you will need to either unhook your ignition coil or ground the end of the spark plug wire to a good ground. You can use a jumper wire with alligator clips on each end to ground it. Next, make sure the throttle is in the wide open position. You can either hold the throttle lever with your thumb or you may be able to tape it or use a zip tie to fasten it to your handlebars to hold it in the wide open position. If you don't have the throttle in the wide open position, you will probably get too low of a reading. Also, if you are testing a newly rebuilt engine, the engine needs to have been run for, at least, 30 or 40 minutes or you will probably get too low of a reading.

      NOTE: Before you begin with the actual test, make sure the threaded adapter is screwed in good and isn't leaking any air out around it.

      ACTUAL TESTING

      With the throttle in the wide open position, push the start button and crank the engine over until the hand on the gauge stops moving. Each time the engine turns over the hand should raise a little more until it reaches the maximum compression of the engine. When it stops, that is your compression reading. This usually takes no more than 10 seconds. Try to avoid cranking an engine for more than 10 seconds at a time as this is hard on the starter and the battery. Now, push the relief valve on your compression gauge and that will reset the hand back to zero. It's a good ideal to repeat the test a couple or three times to make sure you get an accurate reading. On kick start models, it will be the same procedure, but obviously you will be kicking it over instead of using a start button. Worn piston rings and cylinder walls will increase the number of strokes it takes to reach the maximum reading. If you're kicking, it could possibly take as many as 10-20 kicks to get the highest reading.

      THE READING

      You will need to check your repair manual for your particular model for the correct compression specifications. See note below. Usually, an engine will run OK if it has at least 100 PSI of compression. Most engines will have somewhere between 100-250 and some as high as 300 PSI, depending on the engine. Sometimes they will run with under 100 PSI, but usually not very well. If you get a low reading, you can do a "wet test" to try to help determine the problem.

      If your reading is too high, then you probably have carbon built up on your piston and combustion chamber.

      NOTE: You may get a low reading on some engines because some engines have a decompressor assembly built into the camshaft. Check the service manual for your quad to see whether or not your quad has a decompressor assembly built into the cam.

      WET TEST

      If you got a low reading, pour about 1-2 teaspoons of clean motor oil down into the cylinder through the spark plug hole and do the compression test again. If your reading increases, then your rings or cylinder walls are probably worn. If your reading doesn't increase, then it's probably your valves. You could have a bent valve, you may have leaky valve seats, or your valve clearance may not be adjusted properly. Also, low compression can be caused by a blown head gasket.

      CAUSES OF LOW COMPRESSION

      *Worn piston rings or worn or damaged cylinder walls
      *Leaking valves
      *Valve clearance not properly set
      *Blown head gasket

      CAUSE OF HIGH COMPRESSION (stock engines)

      *Carbon buildup in combustion chamber and on piston

      NOTE: Compression testing is a good way to keep track or "gauge" the wear in your engine. When you first get your ATV or when you rebuild the engine in your ATV, you can do a compression test and then later on, you can do them periodically. This will help you determine the wear in your engine each time you do a compression test and will guide you in knowing when your engine needs rebuilding.

      This is about all I can think of. I hope I didn't leave anything out and I hope this helps everyone with their compression tests.
    • As dumb as this sounds how is this done?
    • Try a compression check. And make sure the choke is opening all the way.
    • They are not the best out their but for the price and your average person not too bad I guess, Its going to send lead to where its pointed. This is probably what is going to happen he is going to buy a package shoot it for awhile then start upgrading everything to how he wants it and it is going to end up costing way more than if he just built one himself how he wants it.  
    • Hello, well I convinced my brother in-law to pick up my buddies old 1980 185 although pretty sure he said it was bored out to a 200? Here is the deal it's been sitting for a solid 8 years. I know it ran fine before. Not the delema-----   It starts right up (he bought a new carb odd amazon) although it sounds like a jet with high rpms. Looked at the throttle cable that's fine. Floats are fine. So he plugged this hole in the air filter and got it to idle down although when he hit the gas wouldn't get any power. Read a few things online and they tell you to just bypass the filter box and all that so back to amazon we went to get one of those filters that mount right up to the carb and it's still the same issue..   I just haven't seen anything like this? Do you guys have any thoughts or tricks that we/he could try?! Thanks in advance
    • Hi Everyone,  I'm looking into buying my first true fish finder and I'm a little perplex with the mapping card situation.  I'm looking at Humminbird Helix 5's and 7's.  I'm drawn to the autochart feature.  From my understanding, you can record 8 hours of charting onto the internal storage, but, is there any native mapping included on the unit or do I absolutely have to get some sort of mapping chip, zerolines or lake master, or navionics?  Can I store data on a blank SD card?  I've been researching this a lot and haven't found any conclusive answers. Thanks everyone!
    • Saul Good, Man.....  LOL 
    •   When do the not so rare Highjack birds show up?  Oh ah. 
  • Our Sponsors