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Christopher Quast

Major Weed Problems What Should I use???

13 posts in this topic

For some reason this year I pretty much have nothing but weeds in my lawn and was wondering what you guys use this time of year? I was thinking weed and feed, but my grass whats left is really thick the way it is. Kindof a dilema and don't have much of a budget to work with atleast not for the yard aaah but fishin on the other hand the sky's the limit.

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What kind of weeds? Broadleaf or grassy weeds? and how big of lawn?

If its just dandelions and on a smaller size lawn, I would just go to Home Depot or someplace and get some inexpensive broadleaf herbide. Just read the label and apply as directed.

It doesn't sound like you need fertilizer so I would wait till later in the year to fertilize.

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Get some of the Weed-B-Gone (Or something similar) broadleaf weed control concentrate and use as directed with a hose end sprayer.

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I have mec amine 2-4-d on my lawn and it takes care of pretty much all broadleafs. If you have grasses, then that will not work.

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Do you live on a body of water? If so, just mow the weeds and who cares? Why pollute the water...

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Do you live on a body of water? If so, just mow the weeds and who cares? Why pollute the water...

Just because someone uses chemicals or fertilizers does not mean they automatically pollute the water.

If you read and follow all labels, including parts that say do not spray on or near standing water, or where runoff will happen, then it's better than having just weeds.

An established healthy lawn will prevent erosion, which will in turn, keep the water healthy.

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I live on the water. Every day I see people choose to care for their lawn in an unhealthy way. Follow the dnr recommendations and return to native vegetation. Chemicals, used properly, are still chemicals and are never good for the water, or its inhabitants.

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There are organic options available.

Most people probably don't live right next to a lake or river but almost everyone lives next to a storm drain that takes the yard run off to the lake or river so being consicous of what you are using is always a good idea.

There are many lakes that are unfishable in the Metro area becuase of yard runoff spurring outrageous weed growth in the lakes.

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There are organic options available.

Most people probably don't live right next to a lake or river but almost everyone lives next to a storm drain that takes the yard run off to the lake or river so being consicous of what you are using is always a good idea.

There are many lakes that are unfishable in the Metro area becuase of yard runoff spurring outrageous weed growth in the lakes.

Which is one of the reasons for the ban on Phosphorus.

I'll agree. Chemicals are chemicals. I also agree that people shouldn't develop their lakeshore, to leave a buffer between "lawn" and lake.

I personally feel that chemicals and fertilizers should NOT be sold in big box stores, or just have access to by anyone, there are too many people that do not read the labels.

Also, one last thing is that if you have a healthy yard, you shouldn't have to use as many chemicals either.

But now we've drifted away from the original post.

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When I moved to my house I had the same problem - weeds and not much grass. I went to a garden store and took a 2 hour class on caring for a lawn, and then had a personal meeting with a grass guy. First thing was a treatment with Trimex or Weed be Gone, then aerating the lawn, followed by some seeding with a good quality seed that was right for the area - shady or sunny. Then three applications of fertiziler that was to be put down in specific order. One I remember had a lot of iron in it and that was supposed to deal with grass that was turning yellow.

The most important part was putting down a winterizing fertilizer in the late fall.

The next year I was getting compliments from the neighbors. Since then I've cut back on the number of times I fertilize - one in the spring along with a specific product for crab grass control - not a weed and feed but a specific crab grass controller. Then the late fall winterizing shot. Works great. It's a bit of work but it looks a lot better than any lawn that has the commercial spray outfit come and water the lawn with the weak chemical solutions they use.

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Do you guys ever use Scotts Turf Builder With PLUS 2 Weed Control? I just picked up a bag for broadleaf weeds.

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Problem with that sort of product first of all is that it puts chemical all over the lawn, not just where you need it. Secondly I suspect that it requires that the lawn be damp so that the particles of weed killer attach to the leaves and do their thing. If you just let it fall to the ground it won't do any good - it gets into action via the leaf structures. Spot spraying with Trimex or Weed be Gone eliminates both of these problems and is fairly economical if you buy the concentrated stuff that you have to mix with water.

Bottom line is read the bottom line, the middle lines, and the top lines of the instructions on the bag/bottle of material you are using.

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2 of the most important steps to prevent weeds are to put down a quality pre-emergent fertilizer. (there are different levels of product out there) This will put a barrier for crabgrass, and in the higher end products also prevent other weeds from popping as well. The second step is to keep your lawn watered thru the dry months. If you keep your lawn even on the virg of green, It is it's own weed barrier. As soon as you let it dry out, then the weeds have free reign and will prosper choking out the grass.

The professional services have a good quality pre-emergent fertilizers that also have post emergent qualities as well.

Once your yard is full of weeds, it might be best to contact a professional service to get the one time spray job.

remember to water the yard up a little, because 1. it is not good to spray on a brown lawn and 2. the plants are going toward a dormant state and not taking in as much.

If your weeds are quack grass (which seemed to come up thick and early this year) there isnt much that can be done there besides round up and reseed.

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