Guests - If You want access to member only forums on HSO. You will gain access only when you sign-in or Sign-Up on HotSpotOutdoors.

It's easy - LOOK UPPER right menu.

Sign in to follow this  
Followers 0
Christopher Quast

Major Weed Problems What Should I use???

13 posts in this topic

For some reason this year I pretty much have nothing but weeds in my lawn and was wondering what you guys use this time of year? I was thinking weed and feed, but my grass whats left is really thick the way it is. Kindof a dilema and don't have much of a budget to work with atleast not for the yard aaah but fishin on the other hand the sky's the limit.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

What kind of weeds? Broadleaf or grassy weeds? and how big of lawn?

If its just dandelions and on a smaller size lawn, I would just go to Home Depot or someplace and get some inexpensive broadleaf herbide. Just read the label and apply as directed.

It doesn't sound like you need fertilizer so I would wait till later in the year to fertilize.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Get some of the Weed-B-Gone (Or something similar) broadleaf weed control concentrate and use as directed with a hose end sprayer.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I have mec amine 2-4-d on my lawn and it takes care of pretty much all broadleafs. If you have grasses, then that will not work.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Do you live on a body of water? If so, just mow the weeds and who cares? Why pollute the water...

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Do you live on a body of water? If so, just mow the weeds and who cares? Why pollute the water...

Just because someone uses chemicals or fertilizers does not mean they automatically pollute the water.

If you read and follow all labels, including parts that say do not spray on or near standing water, or where runoff will happen, then it's better than having just weeds.

An established healthy lawn will prevent erosion, which will in turn, keep the water healthy.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I live on the water. Every day I see people choose to care for their lawn in an unhealthy way. Follow the dnr recommendations and return to native vegetation. Chemicals, used properly, are still chemicals and are never good for the water, or its inhabitants.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

There are organic options available.

Most people probably don't live right next to a lake or river but almost everyone lives next to a storm drain that takes the yard run off to the lake or river so being consicous of what you are using is always a good idea.

There are many lakes that are unfishable in the Metro area becuase of yard runoff spurring outrageous weed growth in the lakes.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

There are organic options available.

Most people probably don't live right next to a lake or river but almost everyone lives next to a storm drain that takes the yard run off to the lake or river so being consicous of what you are using is always a good idea.

There are many lakes that are unfishable in the Metro area becuase of yard runoff spurring outrageous weed growth in the lakes.

Which is one of the reasons for the ban on Phosphorus.

I'll agree. Chemicals are chemicals. I also agree that people shouldn't develop their lakeshore, to leave a buffer between "lawn" and lake.

I personally feel that chemicals and fertilizers should NOT be sold in big box stores, or just have access to by anyone, there are too many people that do not read the labels.

Also, one last thing is that if you have a healthy yard, you shouldn't have to use as many chemicals either.

But now we've drifted away from the original post.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

When I moved to my house I had the same problem - weeds and not much grass. I went to a garden store and took a 2 hour class on caring for a lawn, and then had a personal meeting with a grass guy. First thing was a treatment with Trimex or Weed be Gone, then aerating the lawn, followed by some seeding with a good quality seed that was right for the area - shady or sunny. Then three applications of fertiziler that was to be put down in specific order. One I remember had a lot of iron in it and that was supposed to deal with grass that was turning yellow.

The most important part was putting down a winterizing fertilizer in the late fall.

The next year I was getting compliments from the neighbors. Since then I've cut back on the number of times I fertilize - one in the spring along with a specific product for crab grass control - not a weed and feed but a specific crab grass controller. Then the late fall winterizing shot. Works great. It's a bit of work but it looks a lot better than any lawn that has the commercial spray outfit come and water the lawn with the weak chemical solutions they use.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Do you guys ever use Scotts Turf Builder With PLUS 2 Weed Control? I just picked up a bag for broadleaf weeds.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Problem with that sort of product first of all is that it puts chemical all over the lawn, not just where you need it. Secondly I suspect that it requires that the lawn be damp so that the particles of weed killer attach to the leaves and do their thing. If you just let it fall to the ground it won't do any good - it gets into action via the leaf structures. Spot spraying with Trimex or Weed be Gone eliminates both of these problems and is fairly economical if you buy the concentrated stuff that you have to mix with water.

Bottom line is read the bottom line, the middle lines, and the top lines of the instructions on the bag/bottle of material you are using.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

2 of the most important steps to prevent weeds are to put down a quality pre-emergent fertilizer. (there are different levels of product out there) This will put a barrier for crabgrass, and in the higher end products also prevent other weeds from popping as well. The second step is to keep your lawn watered thru the dry months. If you keep your lawn even on the virg of green, It is it's own weed barrier. As soon as you let it dry out, then the weeds have free reign and will prosper choking out the grass.

The professional services have a good quality pre-emergent fertilizers that also have post emergent qualities as well.

Once your yard is full of weeds, it might be best to contact a professional service to get the one time spray job.

remember to water the yard up a little, because 1. it is not good to spray on a brown lawn and 2. the plants are going toward a dormant state and not taking in as much.

If your weeds are quack grass (which seemed to come up thick and early this year) there isnt much that can be done there besides round up and reseed.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.
Sign in to follow this  
Followers 0



  • Posts

    • wear a good balaclava and get a open face with a cold weather breath box never had a problem
    • In my opinion I would look for a nice used wingmaster 2 of my friends have bought a new 870 express about a year apart and they both had the same shell extraction problems. Maybe just a fluke but when I see two different people have the same problem with a Gun makes me think to find a different choice. Heck I have a Mossberg 500 that I treat like poop and I have never had one single malfunction.   I have shot my friends newer express and I can really tell the difference in quality beside my wingmaster  
    • I have Ice Kings.  They are in a word, awesome.  They are about 20-25 years old. Dang I hate dating myself but I have never even bought new liners for these boots.  They are probably one of the finest products I won.  I have never had so much as a chill i my feet.  I usually fish outside but if I am in a flip over, my feet are usually on the ice.  Again, never a chill.  I typically wear a midnight smart wool sock.   For some reason I have been considering new boots.  I guess it is the weight, I would love to have something that is not s heavy and also has better traction.   Today I visited Joe's Sporting Goods and saw some really nice boots (they have a great selection) by Muck, Lacrosse, Sorel, Baffin and some other Canadian made boot that looked very nice. I checked out the ice Kings........they are not the same boot as I have, they don't seem to have the quality to me.  They might be as warm but the rubber feels more stiff almost like it would crack, the uppers are solid leather, mine are leather and corder combo.  The liner also seemed thinner.   After looking at all the boots, I am surprised none offer water proof uppers. Also I am not entirely certain why some seem extend up to your knee with insulation.  Just seems like Over kill because most who would where these boots owed also have some sort of insulated pant on.  Overall I found the boots to be pretty heavy, I was surprised with 20 years past boots have not advanced more.
    • But will be missed but most.............you mad bro?    
    • You boxed yourself.   He was not supporting the Vikings stadium, he was saying that Republicans supported it and now are feigning outrage over the cook subsidy. And then not to be outdone the Republicans are now celebrating the Carrier subsidy.   Pretty much just reinforced his point.      
    • Think we should change the topic to "Trump for Trees."........and all will be well.
    • Had to go all the way back to Missouri to hunt in the snow this year! Beautiful morning but not much movement. Did see some late rut activity Friday.
    • Dotch, you guys over there are almost famous....   Almost because it is Waseca, but whatever.    Mark Seeley's weather blog... http://blog-weathertalk.extension.umn.edu/   .... Waseca now reports 54.13 inches of precipitation for 2016 and this is a new statewide annual precipitation record, surpassing the old one of 53.52" at St Francis (Anoka County) in 1991.
      ....   And an interesting thought...(from Mark, not me) Commentary on Winter TIME: No question will be answered this week, but I want to take TIME to make a comment about Winter TIME. Managing the TIME in the Winter Season in Minnesota is a different ball game than other seasons of the year, because everything takes longer. No question winter will be felt more frequently soon in the daily weather, and snowfalls will become more frequent this month. The rash of bicycle, pedestrian, and vehicular accidents reported during the snow storms towards the end of November reminded me about adjusting for Winter TIME. Our concept of time needs to be adjusted. Lengthen the time intervals that you have intuitively built-into your everyday habits and tasks. It takes longer to walk places, longer to drive places, longer to dress and undress, longer to warm up the car, longer to degomble (shed snow) when you come into the house. You need to make time to shovel snow, scrape the windshield, clean the furnace filters, When you walk take shorter steps and not too fast...put the boots, gloves and hat on when you go outside....check on the neighbor if their place hasn't been shoveled...everything should slow down..except for the long Minnesota goodbye..that is better shortened...just say goodbye, open the door, leave and close the door behind you....no need to stand in an open doorway for minutes conversing about last minute stuff. Winter TIME is an adjustment that may save you anxiety, regret, or even injury.
    • Would you use a bobber on your rattle reel with these? I would think a lively minnow would pull the line out of the contacts.
    • My my, how the mighty have fallen...  I went back to the thread on the cook subsidy, and what did I find in the second post from you, on the second page....     Gee, you were ok with the 66 million because it wasn't a stadium or something, but now all butt hurt over 7 million of Indiana money?    Now that there is a funny joke.  
  • Our Sponsors