Guests - If You want access to member only forums on HSO. You will gain access only when you Sign-in or Sign-Up on HotSpotOutdoors.

It's easy - LOOK UPPER right menu.

  • Announcements

    • Rick

      Members Only Fluid Forum View   08/08/2017

      Fluid forum view allows members only to get right to the meat of this community; the topics. You can toggle between your preferred forum view just below to the left on the main forum entrance. You will see three icons. Try them out and see what you prefer.   Fluid view allows you, if you are a signed up member, to see the newest topic posts in either all forums (select none or all) or in just your favorite forums (select the ones you want to see when you come to Fishing Minnesota). It keeps and in real time with respect to Topic posts and lets YOU SELECT YOUR FAVORITE FORUMS. It can make things fun and easy. This is especially true for less experienced visitors raised on social media. If you, as a members want more specific topics, you can even select a single forum to view. Let us take a look at fluid view in action. We will then break it down and explain how it works in more detail.   The video shows the topic list and the forum filter box. As you can see, it is easy to change the topic list by changing the selected forums. This view replaces the traditional list of categories and forums.   Of course, members only can change the view to better suit your way of browsing.   You will notice a “grid” option. We have moved the grid forum theme setting into the main forum settings. This makes it an option for members only to choose. This screenshot also shows the removal of the forum breadcrumb in fluid view mode. Fluid view remembers your last forum selection so you don’t lose your place when you go back to the listing. The benefit of this feature is easy to see. It removes a potential barrier of entry for members only. It puts the spotlight on topics themselves, and not the hierarchical forum structure. You as a member will enjoy viewing many forums at once and switching between them without leaving the page. We hope that fluid view, the new functionality is an asset that you enjoy .
Sign in to follow this  
Hookmaster

Honda Odyssey Maintenance - Transmission Fluid and Radiator Flush

Recommended Posts

2003 Honda Odyssey

In the manual it says to change the transmission fluid this way:

drain the fluid in the pan, refill, drive a short distance;

drain the fluid in the pan, refill, drive a short distance;

drain the fluid in the pan, refill, drive a short distance;

drain the fluid in the pan, refill.

Is there a better way to do this? What about changing the filter? It says to fill through the dipstick, is there another way? Should I add anything other than the transmission fluid? It says to use Honda brand but Dexron III is OK, for awhile.

For changing the anti-freeze it says to drain the radiator and the block and refill, run, let cool and top off. How hard is it to get to the drain on the engine block? Should I add any stop leak as a preventive action? Don't new cars come with a stop leak? What brand, Bar's? Do I need to flush the radiator with any other chemicals?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

The easier way is to have the transmission flushed at a shop. Most shops will have a transflush machine that will replace 99% of the trans fluid. Specifically request them to not add the flush chemicals!

As far as the filter, if its the trans I'm thinking of there is a filter on the top of the trans that kind of looks like a fuel filter. One end threads into the trans and then an oil line fits into the other.

If you do it yourself use the Honda fluid. Regular ATF should only be used to top off when Honda fluid is not available. Shops will use either Honda fluid at your request, or like our shops, use a product called versatrans which covers a large number of manufacturers fluid specs. To date after using this product for a few years we have not had any issues with it.

Yes the dipstick tube is small and no there is not another place to fill that I am aware of.

Depending on where you are you can expect the transflush to run from around $89 on up. More than likely the upper side because of the fluid.

As far as the coolant again the shop is the easier route. There equipment will get a good majority of the fluid exchanged with clean fluid. Much better than you will be able to do in the driveway. Not to mention the mess and having to dispose of the old coolant. A coolant flush will typically start at around $49 and go up from there.

If you end up doing it yourself I would not recommend using a "stop leak" product. Hondas use some pretty small passages around the throttle body that can have issues with stop leak products.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

If you are not having transmission problems there is no need to flush the trans fluid, a drain and fill once will do. As far as re-filling the trans there is a 17mm headed plug on the top of the transmission look straight down between the intake hose and brake master cylinder. You will need a breaker bar and extension to remove it. As far as a filter is concerned if the transmission has no issues don't worry about the filter. I must stress the use of honda atf only. Not detract from airjers recommendations of versatrans it may be fine but I have had many many a Honda come into the dealer with a transmission shift issue and customer stating I just had my trans fluid replaced. Just my recommendation.

As far as the coolant if you are following the maintenance schedule a drain and fill of the radiator will do no you will not replace all the coolant but if you follow the schedule there is no need as it will be done often enough.

And as airjer said do not use stop leaks of any kind ever even if you have a leak. The removal of said stop leak may exceed the repair needed to fix the leak.

Good Luck!!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Don't get me wrong I prefer to use the O.E. lubricants. I have called Kendall many times to get information on vehicle coverage and was leery when we first started using it. We have had no problems using it in appropriate applications. Whenever possible definitely use the O.E. recommended fluid!

Most of the vehicles that we flush have fluid that looks like tar so at that point drain and fills are not really an option. I have replaced one Honda transmission filter that I can recall so I would agree that its really not that big of an issue. Honda trannies are pretty tough and will usually keep pace with the motors.

I would bet the Hondas with the shift issues had Dexron in them?

Now that you mention it Norm I do recall adding fluid to one a while back (its not that common) and the fill plug rings a bell. Seems like it was a bear to get loose!!!!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I have a Odyssey and contacted two different Honda dealers to get a quote on doing the scheduled tranny maintenance. The puzzling thing is that I got two different answers on the way they perform this maintenance and insisted that it was the correct way.

(1) Berkle Honda - said they do a "flush" as airjet describes for the same reasons stated.

(2) Hopkins Honda - said that they recommend just a drain and refill. Explicitly said they don't recommend a flush because it may cause contaminents that settle in the bottom to get stirred up into the tranny which is not what you want do.

So being very confused ... I went with the drain and fill. It was a little cheaper. Couple months later, a oil change place told me I need a tranny fluid change because it looked dirty. I confirmed that it did look dirty (based on my untrained eye). I don't tow or drive in poor conditions, so I assume that this is from the method used to replace the fluid by Hopkins, or they just did not do it.

** Sorry for the long story, but given the conflicting Honda Shop recommendation - does anyone know the official Honda recommendation on method for doing the tranny fluid service?

Thanks.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

From my first post, the manual says to:

drain the fluid in the pan, refill, drive a short distance;

drain the fluid in the pan, refill, drive a short distance;

drain the fluid in the pan, refill, drive a short distance;

drain the fluid in the pan, refill.

I'd call Hopkins Honda and ask them how many times they drained the pan.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Drain and fill every 30k and don't worry about it. If you have not kept up with the maintenance then you should do the flush procedure. Honda ATF-Z1 does not smell like normal transmission fluids you are most likely used to and is quite a bit darker. So that being said the drain and fill is adequate if the maintenance is done at the correct intervals. By the way follow the severe schedule for fluids.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.
Sign in to follow this  



  • Posts

    • We had a tire blow out a few weeks ago while heading to Zumbro Falls so I just put 4 new tires on the camper last week. Decided to go with the new Goodyear Endurance tires. I also packed all the bearings while I had the wheels off.  
    • Has anyone tried using a picnic basket? 
    • Last nites work. 13 qts stewed tomatoes, 5 pints juice and 15 pints salsa!
    • I'll second that!! Gotta get some more cob cawn today myself....
    • From the  picture it is a male yellow headed blackbird; IMO there is even a faint white bar on the wings which may be what you describe as "the ring on its back" and the black smudge under and behind the eye.  I can't tell about the bill, but on a cowbird the bill is quite heavy;  not nearly so stout on the YH blackbird. Immature male yellow headed black birds are not so bright yellow as the adults, and there should definitely be some young of the year fledged by this time of the year.   If the picture is not accurate then we will need a better photo to do better than that.  IMO This picture does not show a brown headed cowbird.  Most cell phones will take a better picture and if it is tame enough please post another or even better a couple more.  The more different poses the better. Yellow headed blackbirds are almost invariably connected to swampy areas, especially those with cattail fringes.  They also tend to be around in groups, especially groups nesting in the same swamp not mixed in with red winged black birds.   The females of both species are quite drab, and quite distinct from those of the cowbirds.
    • I do live by a river and have lots of RWBB, maybe it will yellow up. That's a very distinct rusty brown ring on it's back though, I didn't see that in any of the YHBB pictures.
    • This furnace has 2 pipes. The larger pipe about 4" is the air intake is supported through ring #29. The smaller pipe inside the larger pipe about 2" is the furnace exhaust connected through the larger ring #30 and screwed to the raised portion of ring #29. My furnace a vintage Hydro Flame Convection with dual direct vent, needed no power, and used a pilot light. Had the identical 2 pipe direct vent as yours. I built 2 rings similar to your drawing. Had 2 major issues: 1. Anytime the wind exceeded 20 mph, my pilot light would blow out even when the furnace side of my house was parked to the leeward side due to wind eddies.  2. At the exhaust cap which was about 1 3/4" from the side of the house would scorch the side surface above the cap and the moisture from burning Propane (1/2 pt. per 10#) would freeze on and below the exhaust when temp went -10 or below. Second year I re-designed using the Pipe Cap photo 1 from Menards for under $10. I cut off the bottom half at the black line and cut a hole on the outside flat surface for the exhaust pipe. This was my fresh air intake. Also filled the inside of the cap with a disassembled expanded metal filter from a motor home stove top exhaust filter.  Photo 1   Secured it to my house and ran the exhaust pipe through the hole in the end. Attached the exhaust pipe to a 2" x 3" aluminum gutter down spout used as a chimney. Photos 2 and 3. Totally solved my issues. You may also find a similar cap to photo 1 for the exhaust instead of the pipe. Most of the caps I was able to find had a 4" connection point so you would need to modify to 2" or whatever size you exhaust pipe is. How ever you do it, cover all openings with a screen to keep the Mud-daubers out as they love burned propane orifice area to build there nest.  Photo 2 & 3
    • sure looks like YHBB.  open fields and swamps close by? They like to hang out where the RWBB do.  Cannon SX30IS is pretty cheap online. 35 power zoom. good for still shots.   
    • Going to bait tomorrow with fryer grease, bread, dog food, cherry frosting, peanut butter, soft candies, raw white sugar, and popcorn. I am throwing everything at them tomorrow, hopefully the bears like the variety!
  • Our Sponsors