Guests - If You want access to member only forums on HSO. You will gain access only when you Sign-in or Sign-Up on HotSpotOutdoors.

It's easy - LOOK UPPER right menu.

  • Announcements

    • Rick

      Members Only Fluid Forum View   08/08/2017

      Fluid forum view allows members only to get right to the meat of this community; the topics. You can toggle between your preferred forum view just below to the left on the main forum entrance. You will see three icons. Try them out and see what you prefer.   Fluid view allows you, if you are a signed up member, to see the newest topic posts in either all forums (select none or all) or in just your favorite forums (select the ones you want to see when you come to Fishing Minnesota). It keeps and in real time with respect to Topic posts and lets YOU SELECT YOUR FAVORITE FORUMS. It can make things fun and easy. This is especially true for less experienced visitors raised on social media. If you, as a members want more specific topics, you can even select a single forum to view. Let us take a look at fluid view in action. We will then break it down and explain how it works in more detail.   The video shows the topic list and the forum filter box. As you can see, it is easy to change the topic list by changing the selected forums. This view replaces the traditional list of categories and forums.   Of course, members only can change the view to better suit your way of browsing.   You will notice a “grid” option. We have moved the grid forum theme setting into the main forum settings. This makes it an option for members only to choose. This screenshot also shows the removal of the forum breadcrumb in fluid view mode. Fluid view remembers your last forum selection so you don’t lose your place when you go back to the listing. The benefit of this feature is easy to see. It removes a potential barrier of entry for members only. It puts the spotlight on topics themselves, and not the hierarchical forum structure. You as a member will enjoy viewing many forums at once and switching between them without leaving the page. We hope that fluid view, the new functionality is an asset that you enjoy .
  • RECEIVE THE GIFTS MEMBERS SHARE WITH YOU HERE...THEN...CREATE SOMETHING TO ENCHANT OTHERS THAT YOU WANT TO SHARE

    You know what we all love...

    When you enchant people, you fill them with delight and yourself in return. Have Fun!!!

Sign in to follow this  
Gary Crichton

Steering Tension control bolt

Recommended Posts

I have a 30 horse Mariner tiller, that has lost it's steering tension control. I have tried to tighten down the bolt but seems warn out. The question I have is this a standard bolt with 1 hole or is there more connected to that hole.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

No one has any answers for me. I am worried when I remove that bolt, that there is more attached to that bolt. This is a 1986 30 HP Mariner.

Thanks

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I can try. As you are looking at the moter from inside the boat, On the right side at the begining of the upper lower unit. There is a bolt that you can tighten down, so your steering is not loose and your moter stays where you positioned it. Right now if you let go it swings on its own, whether its running or not. I have tightened it down but it is worn, and I want to replace the bolt. I just think there is something else that the bolt connects too inside, and that is what I am worried about. I am probally wrong but just trying to confirm b-4 I remove that bolt.

Thanks G.C.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Do you have a serial number for your motor?

I can pull up a exploded view then and we can figure it out...

marine_man

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I can get that but not right now, so we shall have to wait until I get home around 6:00pm. I appreciate the effort and hopefully figure it out b-4 I remove that bolt.( I have a mechanical son in the automotive field. I hope he doesn't try to play with it.)He is good at it, but I just think there is something else attached inside that would have to be lined up again b-4 reinstalling the bolt. I could be over analyzing too. Like I said its a 86 Mariner 30 HP tiller. Great Great moter and has served me well for 22 years and counting. Starts on the second pull when cold and first pull after it warms. Just getting tired of holding on to it when trolling.

Thanks Double M

G.C.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

OK we have now found the problem. My auto mechanic son took the bolt out or should I say half of the bolt. That is why it wasn't staying tight. The bolt is busted. It is a 3/8's bolt. Hopefully we can drill it out, or does anybody else have an idea how to get the other half out.

Thanks G.C.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Funny that is what my kid said possibly might work. I guess dad has to trust 19 yr old son's ability more. Upon looking at it it could go either way. It is only a 3/16 bolt with a 5/16's head. To be sure I guess I need to find out how long this bolt is supposed to be. It could be worn or busted. It is a small hole. The bolt looks like its somewhat normal but it is hard to tell. It looks like there is more bolt inside, but.....

Marine Man or Boat Fixer the model # I got off the moter is 689 L 326967

I really Thank you for the info.

Thanks G.C.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Marine Man The bolt after looking at it more is on the very bottom of the moter side of the lower unit, or the very top of the steering column.

Thanks G.C.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Thanks Marine Man this is great. To me it looks like bolt # 36 is the bolt in question. Is there a way to find out how long that bolt is supposed to be.

Thank You very much

G.C.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Not off hand.. sorry.

You could print the picture out, measure something shown in the picture that you can measure the length on, figure out what scale the picture is, then measure the bolt length and figure out what the actual length is.

FYI - that item is called a "pin" by mercury. The P/N is 19109M

marine_man

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

That is what I did and we shall check it when I get home tonite.

You said it was a "pin". Question, can a "pin" be a bolt.?

G.C.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

From my experiences, a bolt is usually a bolt in the merc parts catalog. I'm thinking it might be a bolt with a machined point at the end of it, or something along those lines...

marine_man

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

That makes sense to me. There has to be something on the end of that bolt/pin. I will let you know when we get the other part of the bolt out.( I hope)

Thanks much

Gary C.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Hey Marine Man - just curious - you're giving info away almost constantly. Do you have a computer on a roll around cart next to what you're working on? Shop so big that you're the front man sitting in an office?

I have benefited a couple of times from extremely fast answers by pros like yourself on this HSOforum and I am just curious about how they can get any work done that pays the bills.

Thanks

Tom

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Well you always have good info, from what I read, and you did well helping me out on my moter issue.

Can you make the rain go away to........

Thanks again for all your help.

G.C.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Good morning Marine Man, I stand corrected on the bolt #. I thought it was #36, and that is a pin. We now have determined it is 3 2-6 or 6-2, which is just to the right of 36. # 6 is a bolt, but is # 2 a bushing of some kind.

Thanks G.C.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

So # 2 is a seal, so we are back to the bolt thing. I still can't tell if the bolt is busted or just worn down. Going to see if we can get a new bolt and check out the size. The seal did not come out with the bolt,( I don't know if it is supposed to) and it does look a little shiney in the hole. The bolt on the close up version looks to be the same size.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.
Sign in to follow this  



  • Your Responses - Share & Have Fun :)

    • I would think so, it would be no different than parking on the shoulder of the road. my commit was more related to people that put up barriers, to keep others from crossing there approach.
    •   Sounds plausible to me.  Is the thickened footing in your mind the same as pouring the perimeter of the slab thicker?  We did an 8 inch perimeter around the 4 inch slab.
    • Yes. But on a post framed building the only think I ever see is a thickened footing and not a foundation to the frost line. A major benefit of post framing is that you install the posts below the frost line so the need for a concrete foundation below the frost line is not needed. If I am understanding the question correctly. 
    • FYI driveway approaches are on the public right of way, you may not block them, or place anything that can injure someone.   May a person park their own vehicle in their own driveway approach?
    • I think they’re more looking at the footings requirement, aren’t they?  Thus the reason for getting the poles below the frost line?   Its the township’s responsibility to figure this out and you have the right to ask them to cite the code they’re following.   I used to live in Isanti County and dealt with a building inspector from my township on the construction of my detached garage.  Things weren’t very strict to say the least.     We built everything by the current UBC code, so I’d suggest first getting a copy of the current version of that since this building will actually be your home.  Don’t take unnecessary shortcuts to save a few bucks up front.  You’ll eventually regret it.   Reading your plans for the slab, it sounds pretty good.  There are plenty of slab homes out there built the way you describe.  What you don’t want is movement.     I’m not an expert by any means but I think footings on your slab wouldn’t be a bad idea and sinking your poles that deep should be a requirement.  If you don’t do footings, at least pour your slab thicker on the perimeter to hold it better.    Your local Authority Having Jurisdiction (AHJ) can be more restrictive than code, but not less.  So if it’s defined in the UBC, you have to do at least that much.
    • I’ve personally been on both sides of this.   Used to love getting as much air as possible over driveways but I never understood gunning it on the other side after crossing.  I guess some are just mild adrenaline junkies.    I quit doing that for one, because it’s illegal, and two, not safe if the homeowner happens to be leaving or getting the mail at the time.   Now that I have a posted trail going over my driveway, I find it just rude, obnoxious and irritating to deal with 4 wheelers and sleds gunning it over the gravel and making ruts and eroding my base to the point of it being an expense to either plow and pack the class 5 back in place or spend the money to pave it.  I hate having to bounce over two ruts with my trailers and whatever I’m hauling in them too.   I think that’s the worst part for me.  Either jump it or be mellow on the throttle the entire way over.   I’ve seen trail groomers go around driveways before, making me wonder if that truly is a requirement or they were simply being courteous.  But I agree with knoppers, they should not drag over the driveway.  Maybe they think they’re taking the snow off for ya.  Call the people responsible for the trail and ask them for suggestions.  
    • If you want to get through ice fast and are going to re-tool for it completely, look at a Nils before making your final decision. 
    • I am fully aware of this as are most people.
    • some people are bad apples that give the sport a bad name, I as a snowmobiler have respect for driveways. FYI driveway approaches are on the public right of way, you may not block them, or place anything that can injure someone. trail groomers actually do you a favor by knocking down the bank, to keep it level. unless your groomer was not well trained, they will not groom over your driveway.
    • If code allows post frame for residential construction then by design you don't need a block foundation. 
  • MWO