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CNY Lee

2001 Yamaha 80hp 4-stroke outboard

9 posts in this topic

I took the screen off to hook up the ears last night so I can run the motor (hasn't been ran in 4 weeks) and noticed some lower gear oil under the screens. I checked the lower gear oil and put a hole tube of it in and it still didn't come out of the top hole. My questions are where could it be leaking from and if I keep my eye on it and keep it full for the summer (low funds$$$) will I be ok? I think the shop who winterized it didn't check it, they seemed a little shady. Also when I took the bottom screw out to put more oil in a litte came out milky brown then ran that good color green, there was no metal shavings on the bottom screw or in the oil so I think I caught something in time.

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A couple of things:

1) You don't have to remove the screens to run it on the hose - it'll run just fine with them on (good thing you did this time though, huh?)

2) A very similar question & answers were on Gear Case Thread last week. Check that one out for the exlanation of how it happened.

3) If you keep your eye on it yes, I suppose it'll be ok.. but it's a bit of a chance with a 7 year old motor that you won't do further damage, costing more to repair it later. If you had some water in the lube it's entirely possible that it froze and pushed some seals out.

marine_man

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Sounds like the drive shaft seals under the water pump.

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Ok, after I put new oil in it yesterday and ran it I let it sit over night and came home to check the oil. The oil is all milky color, I have the service manual but this is something I've never tried before and not sure what I would be getting myself into. The manual says if it's milky to replace the oil seal. This is not what I need at the moment and a total disappointment, I haven't had the boat for a year yet. Is it possible that I'm forcing water through the seal with the ears and it won't get in there when the pump is drawing it in?

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I'd do a vacuum test to be sure, but it sounds like a re-seal is in order. If you are forcing water in, then the seals are shot and need to be replaced.

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Here's a diagram, I think I'll need everything I circle. I figured I'll put in a new impeller since it will be all apart. Do I need to get #'s 15 & 16 also?

The parts are cheaper then I thought, looks like I can purchase them myself and save the big mark up and then spend the 3 hours labor on mechanic.

Let me know if I've missed anything.

Thanks Everyone

2001YamahaDiagram.jpg

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I guess I would still want to do a vacuum and pressure test. In your first post, you said you had oil leaking out. After you changed the lube and ran it, it sounds like water got in. It's quite possible you have 2 different problems.

On both the drive shaft and prop shaft, there are back to back seals. The outside seal keeps water out and the inside seal keeps oil in. Not to forget there are o rings on both the prop shaft bearing carrier and water pump base and a shift shaft seal as well.

My gut tells me your problem is with the drive shaft seals. You could replace them, do the tests and go from there.

The other parts you asked about are the drive shaft bearing (15) and the other (16) looks like a shim and no you wont need either. It was good on your part to include the impeller while doing all of this.

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Hi. You won't need 28,but I would get 26,those darn keys always get locked in and you'll most likely have to chizel it out.The problem you're having is with the driveshaft seals,they tip in the housing and let water in and gearlube out. It's caused from inproper draining out outboard in fall,Yamaha has had a ton of complaints about this, as you'll notice when you go to put the seals in they will push in with your fingers,they need a steel cage around them.On another note,Yamaha gearcases will never pass a vacuum test,because they put both seals facing the same way,not back to back like the other companies.

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Yamaha gearcases will never pass a vacuum test,because they put both seals facing the same way,not back to back like the other companies.

Thats interesting Stump, have you ever tried to put them in back to back just to try it? Or do they use 2 double lipped seals?

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    • BEFORE BEGINNING

      Before you begin, make sure you have a good strong battery and make sure it's charged up. If you have a bad or weak battery, you may want to replace it because if it doesn't crank good and strong, you are likely to get a low, inaccurate reading. Make sure your engine is warmed up to operating temperature(if possible). About 10 minutes of riding should do.

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      THE READING

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      *Carbon buildup in combustion chamber and on piston

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