Guests - If You want access to member only forums on HSO. You will gain access only when you Sign-in or Sign-Up on HotSpotOutdoors.

It's easy - LOOK UPPER right menu.

Sign in to follow this  
Followers 0
still floats guy

Outboard mechanic says lower unit can't be repaired

10 posts in this topic

High buck outboard mechanic it telling me I have to buy a new lower unit because mine can't be repaired. He says the shift rod in the lower unit has pulled some of the parts it is attached to up into an area of the lower unit making it impossible to repair. He is saying he normally needs to remove some sort of bearing hub to make the shift rod thread adjustments and linkage repair. However, the clip holding the shift rod has jammed inside the lower unit making it impossible to pull the bearing assembly.

Does this sound possible?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

What is the year, make and model? I too would consider a second opinion.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

It is a 89 70hp Evinrude.

The mechanic made it sound as though if he could get the shift rod to drop back down then he could remove the parts blocking the space to do the repair. I don't know if he just gave up or what. You wouldn't think a little forked bracket and a pin would render an entire lower unit useless.

Any recommendations on someone who you think might be willing to take a look would be apprectiated. Just send me a private message.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I think I know what he is talking about. Typically on that engine, you would push the shift rod all the way down, then unthread it in order to remove the fwd gear bearing housing. I'm assuming that the detent has been pulled up into the housing making it difficult to remove the brg hsg. I just can't be sure since I have not seen it. Sometimes you just have to think out of the box for solutions. I'd like to give him the benefit of the doubt, but a second opinion is probably the best suggestion at this point, sorry I don't know any one in your area.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I agree, get the second opinion. He could very well be right, but if there's a chance of repair vs replace it's worth the extra effort.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

What was the reason for the repair?

Could be internal damage to the gear case and components leaving the lower unit useless. The cost of to replace parts and labor might exceed what you could buy a used lower unit or for that matter, considering the year another outboard of the same vintage.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

High buck outboard mechanic it telling me I have to buy a new lower unit because mine can't be repaired. He says the shift rod in the lower unit has pulled some of the parts it is attached to up into an area of the lower unit making it impossible to repair. He is saying he normally needs to remove some sort of bearing hub to make the shift rod thread adjustments and linkage repair. However, the clip holding the shift rod has jammed inside the lower unit making it impossible to pull the bearing assembly.

Does this sound possible?

We had the same thing told to us on an 88 Suzuki that would constantly only go forward, no reverse.

Local shop guy said lower unit was shot.

I said, thanks, I'm going to get a second opinion. Paid $75 for diagnostics.

We got the boat home and noticed that he had taken the shifting arm off under the hood, so when you shifted forward to reverse, there was no force. We knew at the shop that something wasn't right, and that's why we wanted to take it home before we authorized parts.

Got to asking around different places and ended up costing me $100 to fix. Different local guy, but not an outboard mechanic, per se, more like a bait shop owner, fixed it and never broke again.

I went back to outboard repair shop (different shop than I use now) and accused them of trying to swindle (been charged with it in the past after doing some research) but I didn't get anywhere. I would have argued more if I'd had the time.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Typically on that engine, you would push the shift rod all the way down, then unthread it in order to remove the fwd gear bearing housing. I'm assuming that the detent has been pulled up into the housing making it difficult to remove the brg hsg.

This is exactly what they are telling me.

THe reason for the repair was that when I started the motor I would get stuck in reverse on an intermittent basis. I ruled out the cables and throttle box. I thought it may have something to do with the clutch dogs. I had a repairman redo the seal kit in the lower unit. I asked him to pay special attention to any other issues that needed to be adressed. He said the clutch dogs and everything else looked fine. I continued to have the same problem. I was able to start the motor and idle up and down. It would just get stuck in gear every second or third time cycling thought the gears. I decided to take it to a marine shop who had highly trained mechanics and get their opinion. As I have mentioned, they said it was a shift rod issue.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

It's probably not that it can't be repaired, it's just probably not cost effective to put that much money into a 20 year old ourboard. Having been there before, just my .02.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.
Sign in to follow this  
Followers 0



  • Posts

    •     Cat?  
    •   Hopefully the trend towards "the other white meat" will bring down the cost of beef brisket
    •   No, weekends was when the wife could get you outside to do some yard work!
    •   They are now making a cloth made out of trees and it seems like the plant is doing just fine. I have not noticed the "smell" since the conversion. Always made me wonder why the smell was the worst on weekends. Kinda thought that maybe the EPA did not work weekends 
    • We are heading back up to Isle Royale for the 4th holiday weekend ,,, Hope to have another video when we get back 
    •   My Father-in-law (a master plumber) always used to say you only need to know 3 things to be a plumber:          sh*t doesn't run uphill         payday is on Friday         the boss is an ahole      
    • I've been getting them at Costco,  I've checked slyvee and sams but never see them.  Although one of the butcher's at slyvee says he can get them which might not be a bad idea since you can have some fat cut off before you pay per #. I picked one up a couple of weeks ago and it was about 2.80 a #, which isn't too bad yet considering bacon in the store can run quite a bit more than that.  You making bacon or doing pork belly burnt ends moon lake?
    • Excellent summer fishing.  Charters catching strong numbers.  Jig/minnow or jig/leech and bouncers with spinners with crawlers or minnows still producing walleyes. When the wind is right for pulling spinners, they have been lights out.  Walleyes being caught in varying depths, 7-31' of water.  Some shallow shorelines still producing. Pike mixed in all over the lake.    Walleyes in the Rainy River with a better morning/evening bite.  Trolling cranks or pulling spinners a good idea to cover more water. Smallmouth bass are out and about along shorelines and feeder streams. Sturgeon fishing opens again Saturday, July 1st.     Up at the NW Angle, water temps are in the low to mid 60’s. Wind blown shorelines are giving up walleyes via leeches or crankbaits along the weed line. Crawlers on a  gold and/or orange spinner are producing fish out of the mud between 22 - 26 feet. On the Canadian side, bottom bouncers and spinners have been filling the livewells outside of monument bay between 24-28 feet.  Jigging near Skeet and Kennedy Islands have produced nice sized walleye and numerous perch. Great smallmouth action in Tranquil channel and the mouth of Johnston passage. Muskie fishing picking up with high 40” class fish being caught with a few 50's from shallow bottom bays or adjacent to them.
  • Our Sponsors