Guests - If You want access to member only forums on HSO. You will gain access only when you Sign-in or Sign-Up on HotSpotOutdoors.

It's easy - LOOK UPPER right menu.

  • Announcements

    • Rick

      Members Only Fluid Forum View   08/08/2017

      Fluid forum view allows members only to get right to the meat of this community; the topics. You can toggle between your preferred forum view just below to the left on the main forum entrance. You will see three icons. Try them out and see what you prefer.   Fluid view allows you, if you are a signed up member, to see the newest topic posts in either all forums (select none or all) or in just your favorite forums (select the ones you want to see when you come to Fishing Minnesota). It keeps and in real time with respect to Topic posts and lets YOU SELECT YOUR FAVORITE FORUMS. It can make things fun and easy. This is especially true for less experienced visitors raised on social media. If you, as a members want more specific topics, you can even select a single forum to view. Let us take a look at fluid view in action. We will then break it down and explain how it works in more detail.   The video shows the topic list and the forum filter box. As you can see, it is easy to change the topic list by changing the selected forums. This view replaces the traditional list of categories and forums.   Of course, members only can change the view to better suit your way of browsing.   You will notice a “grid” option. We have moved the grid forum theme setting into the main forum settings. This makes it an option for members only to choose. This screenshot also shows the removal of the forum breadcrumb in fluid view mode. Fluid view remembers your last forum selection so you don’t lose your place when you go back to the listing. The benefit of this feature is easy to see. It removes a potential barrier of entry for members only. It puts the spotlight on topics themselves, and not the hierarchical forum structure. You as a member will enjoy viewing many forums at once and switching between them without leaving the page. We hope that fluid view, the new functionality is an asset that you enjoy .
Sign in to follow this  
still floats guy

Outboard mechanic says lower unit can't be repaired

Recommended Posts

High buck outboard mechanic it telling me I have to buy a new lower unit because mine can't be repaired. He says the shift rod in the lower unit has pulled some of the parts it is attached to up into an area of the lower unit making it impossible to repair. He is saying he normally needs to remove some sort of bearing hub to make the shift rod thread adjustments and linkage repair. However, the clip holding the shift rod has jammed inside the lower unit making it impossible to pull the bearing assembly.

Does this sound possible?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

It is a 89 70hp Evinrude.

The mechanic made it sound as though if he could get the shift rod to drop back down then he could remove the parts blocking the space to do the repair. I don't know if he just gave up or what. You wouldn't think a little forked bracket and a pin would render an entire lower unit useless.

Any recommendations on someone who you think might be willing to take a look would be apprectiated. Just send me a private message.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I think I know what he is talking about. Typically on that engine, you would push the shift rod all the way down, then unthread it in order to remove the fwd gear bearing housing. I'm assuming that the detent has been pulled up into the housing making it difficult to remove the brg hsg. I just can't be sure since I have not seen it. Sometimes you just have to think out of the box for solutions. I'd like to give him the benefit of the doubt, but a second opinion is probably the best suggestion at this point, sorry I don't know any one in your area.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

What was the reason for the repair?

Could be internal damage to the gear case and components leaving the lower unit useless. The cost of to replace parts and labor might exceed what you could buy a used lower unit or for that matter, considering the year another outboard of the same vintage.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

High buck outboard mechanic it telling me I have to buy a new lower unit because mine can't be repaired. He says the shift rod in the lower unit has pulled some of the parts it is attached to up into an area of the lower unit making it impossible to repair. He is saying he normally needs to remove some sort of bearing hub to make the shift rod thread adjustments and linkage repair. However, the clip holding the shift rod has jammed inside the lower unit making it impossible to pull the bearing assembly.

Does this sound possible?

We had the same thing told to us on an 88 Suzuki that would constantly only go forward, no reverse.

Local shop guy said lower unit was shot.

I said, thanks, I'm going to get a second opinion. Paid $75 for diagnostics.

We got the boat home and noticed that he had taken the shifting arm off under the hood, so when you shifted forward to reverse, there was no force. We knew at the shop that something wasn't right, and that's why we wanted to take it home before we authorized parts.

Got to asking around different places and ended up costing me $100 to fix. Different local guy, but not an outboard mechanic, per se, more like a bait shop owner, fixed it and never broke again.

I went back to outboard repair shop (different shop than I use now) and accused them of trying to swindle (been charged with it in the past after doing some research) but I didn't get anywhere. I would have argued more if I'd had the time.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Typically on that engine, you would push the shift rod all the way down, then unthread it in order to remove the fwd gear bearing housing. I'm assuming that the detent has been pulled up into the housing making it difficult to remove the brg hsg.

This is exactly what they are telling me.

THe reason for the repair was that when I started the motor I would get stuck in reverse on an intermittent basis. I ruled out the cables and throttle box. I thought it may have something to do with the clutch dogs. I had a repairman redo the seal kit in the lower unit. I asked him to pay special attention to any other issues that needed to be adressed. He said the clutch dogs and everything else looked fine. I continued to have the same problem. I was able to start the motor and idle up and down. It would just get stuck in gear every second or third time cycling thought the gears. I decided to take it to a marine shop who had highly trained mechanics and get their opinion. As I have mentioned, they said it was a shift rod issue.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

It's probably not that it can't be repaired, it's just probably not cost effective to put that much money into a 20 year old ourboard. Having been there before, just my .02.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.
Sign in to follow this  



  • Posts

    • Ya he comes home the 29th getting excited for pheasant going to take a trip out to sodak this year Ended up showing a guy from work who is a first time bow hunter a couple of my spots in Sherburne. Was going to walk kunkel after for grouse but it ended up getting too late so just went home. Was hoping for some good weather this weekend but doesn't look too good. Friday is a high of 90! no thanks Maybe I will get a morning sit in for deer hunting if the rain cooperates
    • anybody know what it is?
    • I've been finding a few hens, but nothing like last year (which was great for me).  Here's one that was just shy of ten pounds sitting next to my daughter.
    • You may as well paddle a green kiddie pool around.  Might find one for 50 cents if you look a little. Um, yeah, I've actually seen it done. 
    • Good move!  I'm sure they are thankful! I might've made an offer if I'd seen this before but they'll probably be better used in the organization that received them. Sorry the hear your hunting days are over.
    • There is no way Koivu doesn't get more term and $$ in free agency, not a lot more but he gets more. Marleau is trending down and got more money, Hansel got 750 less and is not in the same league as Koivu. I was hoping for something like 4.5 or 5 but what he got at 2 years is very reasonable. He is a lifelong wild, our captain and a great player, we have no immediate replacement, he makes our team better for the next 3 years be it 1/2/3 center. This isn't something to get upset about, scandella trade sure, aging parise sure but that had to be done, not getting a young center sure but that can sometimes be out of our control because it takes two teams to trade. I get it people are bitter about last year but what fan base isn't bitter about this or that? 
    • I ran 10 gauge wire from my shore or generator feeder to my converter.  Way over kill for a 2000 watt generator but if you ever take it camping or run it off a 3k in the summer it's nice to be wired for the extra wattage.  10 feet of 10 gauge really isn't that much money on the whole project... nice thing about running your inverter directly from the battery and splitting a couple outlets is they are always ready to go.  Just hit the switch on the inverter and you don't have to mess with unplugging and plugging in strings of 110 outlets.  Behind my tv the bottom outlet runs of the Genny and the top runs of the inverter.  Nice thing is if I ever wanted to run the whole 110 system off the inverter I can just run a 6 inch cord with a male plug on each end out the top outlet and into the bottom and power the whole house.
    • This looks like it will work to me. I had thought of doing something similar when I was thinking of going with the inverter, seperate 12v fuse block and onboard charger. Would have wired a "hot" outlet direct from generator. Then ran a piece of romex with a male plug wired onto it and tied the 110v into that. then I could have either plugged that into the "hot" outlet along with the onboard charger, when the generator was running. Or I could have plugged it into the inverter when needing to run off battery power.
    • never been there, have to go!!!   off 10 right???   or where?? thanks!!
    • Thanks everyone for the replies. I am planning to go with the ac/dc distribution panel with built in converter and charger. Then adding an automatic transfer switch, and an inverter. I m going to bring  the exterior generator outlet directly into a gfci outlet box. Then wiring the transfer switch as follows... To the NO(normally open) terminals I will wire either a piece of 14ga romex with a male plug wired on the other end, or just get a cord of the correct size with the plug on it, which will plug into the "hot" gfci outlet being fed by the generator. I will do the same at the NC(normally closed) terminals, which can be plugged into the inverter. Then from the transfer switch output I will wire a piece of romex with a female plug, or correct size cord with same. From the main terminals on the 110v side of the distribution panel I will wire of piece of romex or cord with a male plug on it. That can then be plugged into the female plug coming out of the transfer switch. I figure wiring it that way gives me the option of bypassing the transfer switch and plugging the distribution panel directly into the "hot" gfci outlet from the generator if the transfer switch should fail. The transfer switch should feed the output from the NO terminals as long as they have power to them. If they lose power, i.e. turning the generator off, then the NO terminal close and it switches the NC terminals open and feeds the output from those, which would be the inverter in this case.   I had been told by one of the places that sells fish house materials that I couldn't wire an inverter in with one of their WFCO panels. I knew there was a way so I thank you guys for making me think about it a little more. I think this set up will give me exactly what I'm looking for. I plan on running a Honda 2000W generator, and then two 31 series AGM batteries wired in paralell. Will run the generator during the day when convenient, but also want the ability to "run and gun" more when conditions allow without needing to set up the generator every time just to power a couple small AC items.   Anyone have any experience with the automatic transfer switches? Go Power brand seems to have good reviews. Same with distribution panels. 2 I see the most are the WFCO and the Progressive Dynamics. YettiStyle, what is it that you prefer about the Progressive Dynamics panel? Better quality? Easier connections? etc...   Thanks again to everyone!
  • Our Sponsors