Guests - If You want access to member only forums on HSO. You will gain access only when you Sign-in or Sign-Up on HotSpotOutdoors.

It's easy - LOOK UPPER right menu.

  • Announcements

    • Rick

      Members Only Fluid Forum View   08/08/2017

      Fluid forum view allows members only to get right to the meat of this community; the topics. You can toggle between your preferred forum view just below to the left on the main forum entrance. You will see three icons. Try them out and see what you prefer.   Fluid view allows you, if you are a signed up member, to see the newest topic posts in either all forums (select none or all) or in just your favorite forums (select the ones you want to see when you come to Fishing Minnesota). It keeps and in real time with respect to Topic posts and lets YOU SELECT YOUR FAVORITE FORUMS. It can make things fun and easy. This is especially true for less experienced visitors raised on social media. If you, as a members want more specific topics, you can even select a single forum to view. Let us take a look at fluid view in action. We will then break it down and explain how it works in more detail.   The video shows the topic list and the forum filter box. As you can see, it is easy to change the topic list by changing the selected forums. This view replaces the traditional list of categories and forums.   Of course, members only can change the view to better suit your way of browsing.   You will notice a “grid” option. We have moved the grid forum theme setting into the main forum settings. This makes it an option for members only to choose. This screenshot also shows the removal of the forum breadcrumb in fluid view mode. Fluid view remembers your last forum selection so you don’t lose your place when you go back to the listing. The benefit of this feature is easy to see. It removes a potential barrier of entry for members only. It puts the spotlight on topics themselves, and not the hierarchical forum structure. You as a member will enjoy viewing many forums at once and switching between them without leaving the page. We hope that fluid view, the new functionality is an asset that you enjoy .
  • RECEIVE THE GIFTS MEMBERS SHARE WITH YOU HERE...THEN...CREATE SOMETHING TO ENCHANT OTHERS THAT YOU WANT TO SHARE

    You know what we all love...

    When you enchant people, you fill them with delight and yourself in return. Have Fun!!!

Sign in to follow this  
jerkin'm

Hard water haze/spotting?

Recommended Posts

I haven't figured out a way to get rid of the light haze/spots that seem to stay on my hull after washing. The haze covers pretty much the whole hull. Is there a soap that works for this? I dry it thouroughly immediately after washing and it still shows up..

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Waxing works best. If you dont wanna wax, use CLR (removes Calcium, Lime and Rust find in grocery stores everywhere) and mix in a spray bottle...

But a good wax is best as it is preventative mx for your paint/hull also...

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Use spray window cleaner , and dry as you go with terry cloth towell. I use it every time and boat looks new .

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Try a bottle of "Zep" fiberglass tub/shower cleaner (not the mold/mildew stuff, that's a bleach mixture). Home Depot is the only place I have found this stuff. It completely eliminates hard water stains, calcium build up, etc... It's all I use to clean my boat/motors (and my showers/tubs from rust stains).

If you can't find it, you know I can help you out...

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

A fishing buddy who's pretty anal about the way his boat looks uses Tilex daily shower spray. He just sprays it on while the boat is still wet. He's been using it for a few years so it must be working for him. He also waxes the boat monthly.

I have my first glass boat and have used it a few times but not for a long enough time to know if it is working.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Nothing beats "The Works", toilet and bowl cleaner. Use the regular bottle kind not the spray on. May have to brush area with a plastic brush, then rinse well.

To shine aluminum with mirror reflection use Busch Super Aluminum polish, it's amazing

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I've tried a bunch of cleaning chemicals and CLR works the best. I put it on with a rag (full strength) and rinse it off right away. Do small areas at a time and wear rubber gloves. Then I recomend applying a wax or sealant to keep it looking nice longer.

Nels

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I got Bass Boat Saver and it works very good. You just wipe your boat down after it comes out of the water and it looks great. It kind of washes it and waxes it at the smae time. Kinda spendy @ $30 a gallon though.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Each fall before I put the boat in storage i give it a bath with a 75% vinegar and 25% water mixture. I have also heard that toilet bowl cleaner works to.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

The hazing is water deposits. We have a product called Wonderfoam. Wet down the area with water and spray on Wonderfoam and the will foam up after it sets for on min. Rinse off real well and they are gone. Follow up with a cleaner wax called Restore that is easy on and very easy off and your all set. Looks like new and hardly any work at all. After a few coats of Restore you will notice a huge difference in the amount of water spots you get as water will repel off your boat. Wonderfoam can be used on boat and motor with excellent results. Both products are made for boats and are biodegradable. Skeeter

[note from admin: please read forum policy before posting again. thanks!]

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.
Sign in to follow this  



  • Your Responses - Share & Have Fun :)

    • I would think so, it would be no different than parking on the shoulder of the road. my commit was more related to people that put up barriers, to keep others from crossing there approach.
    •   Sounds plausible to me.  Is the thickened footing in your mind the same as pouring the perimeter of the slab thicker?  We did an 8 inch perimeter around the 4 inch slab.
    • Yes. But on a post framed building the only think I ever see is a thickened footing and not a foundation to the frost line. A major benefit of post framing is that you install the posts below the frost line so the need for a concrete foundation below the frost line is not needed. If I am understanding the question correctly. 
    • FYI driveway approaches are on the public right of way, you may not block them, or place anything that can injure someone.   May a person park their own vehicle in their own driveway approach?
    • I think they’re more looking at the footings requirement, aren’t they?  Thus the reason for getting the poles below the frost line?   Its the township’s responsibility to figure this out and you have the right to ask them to cite the code they’re following.   I used to live in Isanti County and dealt with a building inspector from my township on the construction of my detached garage.  Things weren’t very strict to say the least.     We built everything by the current UBC code, so I’d suggest first getting a copy of the current version of that since this building will actually be your home.  Don’t take unnecessary shortcuts to save a few bucks up front.  You’ll eventually regret it.   Reading your plans for the slab, it sounds pretty good.  There are plenty of slab homes out there built the way you describe.  What you don’t want is movement.     I’m not an expert by any means but I think footings on your slab wouldn’t be a bad idea and sinking your poles that deep should be a requirement.  If you don’t do footings, at least pour your slab thicker on the perimeter to hold it better.    Your local Authority Having Jurisdiction (AHJ) can be more restrictive than code, but not less.  So if it’s defined in the UBC, you have to do at least that much.
    • I’ve personally been on both sides of this.   Used to love getting as much air as possible over driveways but I never understood gunning it on the other side after crossing.  I guess some are just mild adrenaline junkies.    I quit doing that for one, because it’s illegal, and two, not safe if the homeowner happens to be leaving or getting the mail at the time.   Now that I have a posted trail going over my driveway, I find it just rude, obnoxious and irritating to deal with 4 wheelers and sleds gunning it over the gravel and making ruts and eroding my base to the point of it being an expense to either plow and pack the class 5 back in place or spend the money to pave it.  I hate having to bounce over two ruts with my trailers and whatever I’m hauling in them too.   I think that’s the worst part for me.  Either jump it or be mellow on the throttle the entire way over.   I’ve seen trail groomers go around driveways before, making me wonder if that truly is a requirement or they were simply being courteous.  But I agree with knoppers, they should not drag over the driveway.  Maybe they think they’re taking the snow off for ya.  Call the people responsible for the trail and ask them for suggestions.  
    • If you want to get through ice fast and are going to re-tool for it completely, look at a Nils before making your final decision. 
    • I am fully aware of this as are most people.
    • some people are bad apples that give the sport a bad name, I as a snowmobiler have respect for driveways. FYI driveway approaches are on the public right of way, you may not block them, or place anything that can injure someone. trail groomers actually do you a favor by knocking down the bank, to keep it level. unless your groomer was not well trained, they will not groom over your driveway.
    • If code allows post frame for residential construction then by design you don't need a block foundation. 
  • MWO