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gritsnham

Casting Crank Rod

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What would you guys recomend for a crank casting rod? I was thinking of getting a 7'11" MH what have other people had good luck with? Im not sure what real I want for it yet so any suggestions on that would be great also.

Thanks

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Get whatever length you prefer, I like a 7' myself. Consider the type of cranking, light or heavy lures, big deep divers or shallow divers this will determine the power rating. If I were just getting one rod it would probably be a MH. Finaly make sure its a Moderate action rod.

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I like the 7'6" Diamondback ML and the 7'2" Shimano Cumara M for most of my crankin. The 7'6" Diamondback I built with Syncork to make it lighter (also made it into a poodle handle) and put on a Shimano Chronarch MG. Rod and reel weighs less than a pound. Also a great open worm rod...

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That 7'11" might be tough to store anywhere.

For ligher/med weight cranks, I would highly recomend the Fenwick Elite Tech Crankshaft 7' M action. If you're going to be throwing a little heavier stuff or deep divers, there is a 7'3" MH action as well.

If you check out the rods in the store (Joe's in St Paul carries them), they seem kind of flimsy because of the fiberglass section. On the water, they load up real nice. There's a little give to dampen the loads, but plenty of backbone if you need it.

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This year i went with a 7 ft. Lamiglas crankin rod. What a cool rod! Like the other guy said, because its glass it feels "flimsy" but if I need to rip out of weeds or land a big fish not a problem.

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Hiya -

Kind of depends... "cranking" covers a lot of ground... If you're talking bigger cranks like DT-10s, DT-16s, DD-22s, etc., then a glass rod or mod-fast action graphite is great for fishing deep weedlines. You need the backbone of a med-heavy for big cranks - I think anyhow - but the slower action and slower blank speed of glass can really help keep you from losing fish, especially if you use braid. For lighter cranks like shad raps and smaller medium and shallow divers, I have the exact same rod Matt does - an ML Diamondback. Awesome smallie crank rod.

BPA - 7'6" is cool, but the power/action matters more than length I think. I really prefer long rods for cranking, but I know some guys who use a 6'6" rod for deep cranks. As far as line goes, I use 12# fluoro most of the season, and lots of guys use 10#. Late in the summer I switch to braid for fishing coontail.

Cheers,

Rob Kimm

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I was gonna use this 7'6" medium-heavy rod for deep cranking with 20 foot range cranks.

Wouldn't I be losing sensitivity with fluoro at those depths? Sorry I don't use fluoro so I don't know.

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In a practical sense there are no 20 foot range cranks for casting. Trolling of course is a different story. Braid has the most sensitivity, Flouro is second, and mono is on the bottom. I would probably give 10 or 12lb. flouro a whirl. A lot of guys are cranking with that now.

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Anyone try the Shimano Crucial/Compre TC4 crank bait rods (not the graphite versions)? Curious on the feedback on these rods? I tried the 6'6" Cruicial TC4 medium action - it was almost too whippy for me (2" rattling rap). I was curious if goint to the 7' MH TC4 would be a better route. I will likely use the rod as a universal crankbait rod for medium to larger lures, and multi-species.

Also, does this type of setup work best for straight retrieves? Or does it also work well for jerk & pause/twitching/etc type retrieves? Seems the softness would effect lure control vs a graphite setup.

Thanks!

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NC- I have 4 of the 7'MH TC4 Crucial Rods.. I love em.. will not throw Cranks or Spinnerbaits on anything else.. Yes they are a bit wippy.. but thats the point!!!!!!!!!!! They need to give to hold the fish!

BTW, they are graphite.. or a composite to be more exact. They way they make them is.... a very thin graphite blank, then glass cross weaved, and a again a very thin graphite blank on top... lightness of graphite with the action and taper of glass.. the best of both worlds!

As to your last question.. I do a lot of stop/go with that rod, you dont really snap the rod tip, but more just stop reeling.. Or at least thats how I do it.

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Thanks for the quick feedback Dietz! I think I will be picking up the 7' MH Compre tomorrow.

I will proabably put one of my current reels on it, but will be looking to put a new reel on it later ($140-$200 range). I know the 5.x speed works well for cranks, but how is it for spinner baits & lipless cranks?

Do you know when the new Curodos will be in stores? I know your a Shimano guy, but other options I will be looking at are the Revo Winch, Pflueger Patriarch, new Quantum Energy PT.

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The new Curados will be released to stores after ICast, which is going on right now. I would expect the new reels to be in major stores some time next week or the week after? But that is just a s guess.. THe new curado If i have my stuff right will retail for $179, I have one on order and cant wait to get it(I made the stipulation that I was the first from MN to get one.. Lets see if thats true)...

My take on 5X speed... it really depends on you... I have a friend(CLDocksitter, Jeff) whom I feel is the best crank bait fisher I know... Bar none!!!!!! he uses all 6-1 reels.. but he is able to slow down, and really doesn't throw the supper deep cranks much.. I have one 5X reel on a crank rod, and use it probably 10-15 times a year at best, only on Super deep cranks.. otherwise I use regular 6.1 or so reels.. you just have to make the mental note to slow down, even when you get excited!

That compre rod will be what you are looking for in a crankbait rod, just remember, its all about the 'give'... The 'give' keeps fish hooked and hooks them better to begin with. Not the best for clearing weeds and such.. its just something you have to get used to... I will never go back to Glass or Graphite for a crank rod.. Comp is where it is!

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I got really lucky with my used 7'-0" MH St. Croix Pro Glass. I love that thing. Using it last night at FBL I was pulling a DT10. For sure, glass is not anywhere near as sensitive as graphite, but it sure is nice. There is plenty of backbone in the rod, and it hooks the fish for you, then you just keep the tension on em til they get in the boat. I got a little excited on my first big one on the crankin stick and reeled it almost all the way to the tip of the rod. D'oh! grin

By the way, I was able to clear the weeds about 2 out of 3 rips with it, but some times it wasn't quick enough to clear em.

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Thanks for the help with the reel. Looks like I will be going with the 6.x speed reel - I like the added flexibilty, and they are usually easier to find.

Dietz, I am looking forward to your report on the new Curado reel and Citica (assume you will be testing that for Shimano as well). Looks like they went in a great direction with them (smaller & lighter). I kinda wish the brake adjustment was external, much more convinient then having to take off the side plate to adjust for the wind.

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NC- I look forward to getting them in my hands as well... I'll do my best to give an honest review once I get them.

as for your comment to the break adjusement.. Many companies use magnets, which make it easy for external adjustments.. however, you can never turn a magnet off...

I seldom change my breaks, only when conditions call for it the most... I like the way Shimano does it and dont want them to change. But thats just my opnion!

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