Guests - If You want access to member only forums on HSO. You will gain access only when you Sign-in or Sign-Up on HotSpotOutdoors.

It's easy - LOOK UPPER right menu.

  • Announcements

    • Rick

      Members Only Fluid Forum View   08/08/2017

      Fluid forum view allows members only to get right to the meat of this community; the topics. You can toggle between your preferred forum view just below to the left on the main forum entrance. You will see three icons. Try them out and see what you prefer.   Fluid view allows you, if you are a signed up member, to see the newest topic posts in either all forums (select none or all) or in just your favorite forums (select the ones you want to see when you come to Fishing Minnesota). It keeps and in real time with respect to Topic posts and lets YOU SELECT YOUR FAVORITE FORUMS. It can make things fun and easy. This is especially true for less experienced visitors raised on social media. If you, as a members want more specific topics, you can even select a single forum to view. Let us take a look at fluid view in action. We will then break it down and explain how it works in more detail.   The video shows the topic list and the forum filter box. As you can see, it is easy to change the topic list by changing the selected forums. This view replaces the traditional list of categories and forums.   Of course, members only can change the view to better suit your way of browsing.   You will notice a “grid” option. We have moved the grid forum theme setting into the main forum settings. This makes it an option for members only to choose. This screenshot also shows the removal of the forum breadcrumb in fluid view mode. Fluid view remembers your last forum selection so you don’t lose your place when you go back to the listing. The benefit of this feature is easy to see. It removes a potential barrier of entry for members only. It puts the spotlight on topics themselves, and not the hierarchical forum structure. You as a member will enjoy viewing many forums at once and switching between them without leaving the page. We hope that fluid view, the new functionality is an asset that you enjoy .
Sign in to follow this  
Basseyes

Lund Questions

Recommended Posts

I've been able to find almost all my decals but can't seem to find the back graphics. Anyone know a good place to find decals for a pro v?

Have only owned camo boats up to now and am wondering is it a good idea to wax an aluminum painted boat and what is the best way and products to keep up the paint, hull and even the motor cover?

The live wells have me a bit confused? I don't use them much but want them to work properly. I can't get my front one to fill but the pump sounds like it is trying to pump water. Are the live wells on seperate pumps? Is the impeller in the pump bad or am I missing something simple? The back one fills with water no matter where the control switches are set and circulates water into the bait well like it should. I can't get the back one to empty. For now the back one I've just put a plug in it and that seems to work. Don't want all that extra weight if I don't need it. Getting a bit frustrated with the live wells. Seems like I'm just missing something?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I'd call Lund or go through a lund dealer to get the decals. If they're not available on hsolist I'd say that's your only option.

Wax should be just fine on the aluminum - it's got a clear coat on it. Be carefull around the decals though.

I presume you read my reply in another thread: Livewell Question?

When you are trying to fill the front livewell, what setting do you have the valve on? It needs to be on Fill or Empty. If it's on recirc and there's no water in the livewell to pump it'll sound like you describe.

With respect to emptying the back one - when you set it to empty it doesn't drain? It won't fully drain until you either pull the boat out of the water or run on plane until it emptys, then switch the valve to fill or recirc.

marine_man

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Check to see if you have individual pumps. Are they canister type pumps? If they are, you may need to (while pump is on) twist to loosen canister then retighten the pump will then prime its self. My pumps seem to vapor lock and not prime some times and this gets them to work.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Marine man hit things on the head. Make sure that your control knob is on fill for filling. Sometimes when mine won't work I'll put the big motor in reverse to force water up the intake lines and to the pump. Seems to work if there is an air lock or something.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

You are correct the back one will not fully empty till I pull it out of the water no matter where the switch is.

The front one seemed to have some trouble filling late last year when I got the boat but would fill none the less. Now it will not fill at all with the switch on rec, fill or empty. But I can hear the pump turn on.

There's only a small access hole in the splash pan in front of the motor. Not much room to even get my arm down in there. Can't see the pump. Can see the hoses going under the back well and that is where I can hear the pump running. What's the best way to get at that pump, pull the back platform? Could the 2 problems be related if it is only one pump? But I have 2 screens on the back of the boat with 2 seperate hoses in the boat so can I assume they have seperate pumps?

Will try the reverse thing and keep tinkering with it.

Appreciate all the help.

Looked into lund decals and seats OOOOUUUUCH! Holy shnikee that stuff is spendddeee. $240 bucks for a seat. I need four seats eventually because I have the lund seats made out of wood and they are getting kind of soft. For four seats I'd have to spend over $1,000 after taxes. YIKES!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

The back one won't fully empty until you're on plane or until it's out of the water because you effectively have a hole in the livewell to outside of the boat - water pressure will force water into the livewell until it's at the same level as the water outside the boat.

ANYFISH offered a good tip too - sometimes (and almost always the front one) the pumps will get air lock and need to be backfilled a bit by putting the motor in reverse and running the throttle up some.

Access to the pumps (yes, there are 2) and valves (2 also) is through a rectangular floor panel (not an access panel, you'll need to remove part of the floor) in the center of the boat, almost always right before the step up to the front deck or right in front of the rear storage compartments. The panel is probably 2' long at the most... the one that's about 6' or so is for the fuel tank. There will be 4 screws, one in each corner of the panel. Pull those and you'll have full access to the pumps and valves.

One thing I would try first is to remove the screen that runs to the front livewell (you may have to experiment to see which one it is) and run water from a garden hose into the fitting after you screw the screen off and turn your pump on. Does it pump water then?

marine_man

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Took the panel off and turned the switch for the front live well. The set screw on the cable was not tight. When the switch was moved the hole cable moved not allowing the inner wire to move the valve. Adjusted and tightend it and works properly now. The back pump sounds different than the front one even though they are the same pump. The front sounds like it's grinding a bit guessing the front one is starting to go? Also found out the bilge pump wasn't secured down to its mount and the auto pump wasn't working so fixed both of those. Wow there's alot of plumbing involved with both live wells and bilge pumps. Even found the live well light and hooked that back up.

Appreciate all the tips really helped!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.
Sign in to follow this  



  • Posts

    • Last nites work. 13 qts stewed tomatoes, 5 pints juice and 15 pints salsa!
    • I'll second that!! Gotta get some more cob cawn today myself....
    • From the  picture it is a male yellow headed blackbird; IMO there is even a faint white bar on the wings which may be what you describe as "the ring on its back" and the black smudge under and behind the eye.  I can't tell about the bill, but on a cowbird the bill is quite heavy;  not nearly so stout on the YH blackbird. Immature male yellow headed black birds are not so bright yellow as the adults, and there should definitely be some young of the year fledged by this time of the year.   If the picture is not accurate then we will need a better photo to do better than that.  IMO This picture does not show a brown headed cowbird.  Most cell phones will take a better picture and if it is tame enough please post another or even better a couple more.  The more different poses the better. Yellow headed blackbirds are almost invariably connected to swampy areas, especially those with cattail fringes.  They also tend to be around in groups, especially groups nesting in the same swamp not mixed in with red winged black birds.   The females of both species are quite drab, and quite distinct from those of the cowbirds.
    • I do live by a river and have lots of RWBB, maybe it will yellow up. That's a very distinct rusty brown ring on it's back though, I didn't see that in any of the YHBB pictures.
    • This furnace has 2 pipes. The larger pipe about 4" is the air intake is supported through ring #29. The smaller pipe inside the larger pipe about 2" is the furnace exhaust connected through the larger ring #30 and screwed to the raised portion of ring #29. My furnace a vintage Hydro Flame Convection with dual direct vent, needed no power, and used a pilot light. Had the identical 2 pipe direct vent as yours. I built 2 rings similar to your drawing. Had 2 major issues: 1. Anytime the wind exceeded 20 mph, my pilot light would blow out even when the furnace side of my house was parked to the leeward side due to wind eddies.  2. At the exhaust cap which was about 1 3/4" from the side of the house would scorch the side surface above the cap and the moisture from burning Propane (1/2 pt. per 10#) would freeze on and below the exhaust when temp went -10 or below. Second year I re-designed using the Pipe Cap photo 1 from Menards for under $10. I cut off the bottom half at the black line and cut a hole on the outside flat surface for the exhaust pipe. This was my fresh air intake. Also filled the inside of the cap with a disassembled expanded metal filter from a motor home stove top exhaust filter.  Photo 1   Secured it to my house and ran the exhaust pipe through the hole in the end. Attached the exhaust pipe to a 2" x 3" aluminum gutter down spout used as a chimney. Photos 2 and 3. Totally solved my issues. You may also find a similar cap to photo 1 for the exhaust instead of the pipe. Most of the caps I was able to find had a 4" connection point so you would need to modify to 2" or whatever size you exhaust pipe is. How ever you do it, cover all openings with a screen to keep the Mud-daubers out as they love burned propane orifice area to build there nest.  Photo 2 & 3
    • sure looks like YHBB.  open fields and swamps close by? They like to hang out where the RWBB do.  Cannon SX30IS is pretty cheap online. 35 power zoom. good for still shots.   
    • Going to bait tomorrow with fryer grease, bread, dog food, cherry frosting, peanut butter, soft candies, raw white sugar, and popcorn. I am throwing everything at them tomorrow, hopefully the bears like the variety!
    • I don't know about that but I will certainly not write him off, if he can be a steady vet I will be happy. 
    • That's a great chicken recipe duff, but that steak n corn get my vote!! 
  • Our Sponsors