Guests - If You want access to member only forums on HSO. You will gain access only when you Sign-in or Sign-Up on HotSpotOutdoors.

It's easy - LOOK UPPER right menu.

  • Announcements

    • Rick

      Members Only Fluid Forum View   08/08/2017

      Fluid forum view allows members only to get right to the meat of this community; the topics. You can toggle between your preferred forum view just below to the left on the main forum entrance. You will see three icons. Try them out and see what you prefer.   Fluid view allows you, if you are a signed up member, to see the newest topic posts in either all forums (select none or all) or in just your favorite forums (select the ones you want to see when you come to Fishing Minnesota). It keeps and in real time with respect to Topic posts and lets YOU SELECT YOUR FAVORITE FORUMS. It can make things fun and easy. This is especially true for less experienced visitors raised on social media. If you, as a members want more specific topics, you can even select a single forum to view. Let us take a look at fluid view in action. We will then break it down and explain how it works in more detail.   The video shows the topic list and the forum filter box. As you can see, it is easy to change the topic list by changing the selected forums. This view replaces the traditional list of categories and forums.   Of course, members only can change the view to better suit your way of browsing.   You will notice a “grid” option. We have moved the grid forum theme setting into the main forum settings. This makes it an option for members only to choose. This screenshot also shows the removal of the forum breadcrumb in fluid view mode. Fluid view remembers your last forum selection so you don’t lose your place when you go back to the listing. The benefit of this feature is easy to see. It removes a potential barrier of entry for members only. It puts the spotlight on topics themselves, and not the hierarchical forum structure. You as a member will enjoy viewing many forums at once and switching between them without leaving the page. We hope that fluid view, the new functionality is an asset that you enjoy .
  • RECEIVE THE GIFTS MEMBERS SHARE WITH YOU HERE...THEN...CREATE SOMETHING TO ENCHANT OTHERS THAT YOU WANT TO SHARE

    You know what we all love...

    When you enchant people, you fill them with delight and yourself in return. Have Fun!!!

Sign in to follow this  
73mrpike

rapala lures for pike

Recommended Posts

first i want to say im not knocking rapala lures in any way we all know they are good lures now the question regarding pike i have caught a few on shad raps and floating raps however its 1 or 2 pike per lure then there all ripped to pieces does any one have any suggestions on other rapala lures that would work for pike a x rap is plastic would this be a better idea. or what are youre thoughts on presentation. i have used spinners and spoons not much luck but oh those rapalas how they comfort me he he i posted this here to get more responses i hope thanks

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I have had good luck with the Bigger Husky jerk-baits. [PoorWordUsage] a Daredevle or Doctor Spoon will last a long time if that's the concern.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I wish I had that problem. Maybe try live bait, after a pike rips it up a catfish can finish it off.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

As far as artificial baits go, Rapalas and spoons have always caught Northerns for me. I agree about a took-marked up lure being a better bait. That just means the fish like it!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Plastic Bomber lures...LOL's

Those are may got to get toothy critters. I like my balsa Rapalas but the Bomber can take a lot more punishment.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Raps are great baits and they catch alot of fish of different species. I don't fish balsa baits for pike because they truly tear them up. I do however fish the Husky jerk-baits, suspending shad raps and super shad raps for pike being that they are plastic and tend to take a bit more of a beating then the balsa baits do. I also like the Mepps spiners in #5 and larger for pike especially when there is current involved. I like rougues, bombers and some of the Matzuo baits for twitching and pitching as well. I caught a 49" muskie on a plastic suspending jerk-bait bait typically used for bass last fall and it held up well and like others have said it is the teeth marks that give it the badge of "honor". I'd stick with the plastic bodied baits for pike unless you like to repleace baits at 6 bucks or better. My .02.

Tunrevir~

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Mrpike:

I've got a couple of trophy ShadRaps hanging on my wall. Both started their day new out of the box. Both finished the day chewed to $%&*! and with their tail wires ripped out and bent over! I usually retire a ShadRap after 40 to 50 fish, and that's not bad for $6. Cheaper than live bait. Of course, you can also take a used/chewed Rap, let it dry thoroughly, and seal the holes with superglue or fingernail polish. I also change hooks after they get bent up too badly. I put red hooks on 'em...watch out!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I made a big mistake, thinking I could save myself some money. I bought a bunch of off brand cranks and shads from a clearance bin. They cast and retrieve all right, but forget about trolling with them. All they do is just float to the top. I have 15 year old rapalas, that troll tried and true. I will never buy another trolling lure unless it is a rapala. also, I went to my girlfriends cousins wedding, and his wife is the spokesperson for rapala. She has been fetured on kent herbek outdoors a few times. It was pretty cool to go to the wedding. Their table gift was a shallow diving x-rap with their names put in the side. Im sure no body uses the lure, but i cast mine all the time.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

You can try "Rebel" Crawdads. I always have a few in my tackle box. I cast them off the dock and have caught just about everything on them. Pike seem to really like the action and they hold up very well to the punishment

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I think the advice Tunrevir gave is about as good as you can get. Use em til they are wore out and put them in the "Trophy Case". Replace them with plastic baits next time around if you are fishing mainly pike as they do hold up better. I have a few hanging in my garage in the fishin shop that are chewed up.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

yep toothmarks are awesome! I have a perch #5 shad rap that musta caught 200 fish on a 2 week long trip to Manitoba. Barely had paint on it - i hung it on my wall smile

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I've used a standard perch-colored original floating Rapala for many years now and caught 100's of pike on it, including a nice 40" fish in Canada. The only thing I've had to do is replace straightened hooks and split rings.

I've even had teeth left in the lure after the catch!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I love using Perch color Tail Dancers for pike, but they do not hold up as well as the older Fat Raps or husky jerk-baits. The Deep Tail Dancers are better, as they are bigger, and the Super Shads kick butt! The old and now discontinued Risto Raps are great pike lures, as they troll well even at HIGH speeds and they hold up great. But yeah, I have a baggie full of broken Rapalas, usually lips that ripped off or broke. They used to replace them, but not any more.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

yeah those risto raps WERE great for pike... when bass fishing in SE michigan growing up I couldn't keep the pike off of them things

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I have a few old Ristos and just two weeks ago pulled one out of the box and caught a pike within the first 10 casts on it. I love those old baits. The Ristos and the Fat Raps were my favorites, thankfully the are at least producing the Glass Fat Raps now.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Actually, I find that it is common that the chewed up lures may outproduce shiny new ones. I can't explain it other than I believe it isn't always the paint that draws the strike but the action of the lure. I believe that each lure may impart a unique action, vibration, or whatever and when you get one that inspires strikes, keep using it. Some of my best lures are those that are beat up.

Bob

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I can't believe no one has brought up the Rattling Raps I have great luck on all sizes of them and all differant fish. They seem to hold up pretty well.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

You are so right PDogg. Those Rattlin Raps are awesome pike lures. They will literally catch just about anything that swims. I have caught crappies, gills, walleyes, bass, pike, and believe it or not, even catfish on them. The best colors for the Rattlin Raps are the Chrome with black back and Gold with black back. The flash, vibration, and sound is a deadly combo.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.
Sign in to follow this  



  • Your Responses - Share & Have Fun :)

    • Thank you for the responses. I do know it’s a right of wayband not blockable...except...I seen one coming and did park in the area after work this week.  In a split second she/he turned around and went the other way. My truck would fill the approach but I only had the car that day.—this response is what I’m trying to avoid. knoppers-there was no bank there...there were little dots through the snow that was pulled back onto the driveway. Heck, he was up near the tree line. Wanderer-it’s a small rural area, I’ll be the ... The snow and ice is melting down to the tar today, they drove in it anyway. It’s 130 am and ya...time for jumping. Thanks for all the answers. I don’t feel alone in feeling it’s rude. That helps. 
    • I would think so, it would be no different than parking on the shoulder of the road. my commit was more related to people that put up barriers, to keep others from crossing there approach.
    •   Sounds plausible to me.  Is the thickened footing in your mind the same as pouring the perimeter of the slab thicker?  We did an 8 inch perimeter around the 4 inch slab.
    • Yes. But on a post framed building the only think I ever see is a thickened footing and not a foundation to the frost line. A major benefit of post framing is that you install the posts below the frost line so the need for a concrete foundation below the frost line is not needed. If I am understanding the question correctly. 
    • FYI driveway approaches are on the public right of way, you may not block them, or place anything that can injure someone.   May a person park their own vehicle in their own driveway approach?
    • I think they’re more looking at the footings requirement, aren’t they?  Thus the reason for getting the poles below the frost line?   Its the township’s responsibility to figure this out and you have the right to ask them to cite the code they’re following.   I used to live in Isanti County and dealt with a building inspector from my township on the construction of my detached garage.  Things weren’t very strict to say the least.     We built everything by the current UBC code, so I’d suggest first getting a copy of the current version of that since this building will actually be your home.  Don’t take unnecessary shortcuts to save a few bucks up front.  You’ll eventually regret it.   Reading your plans for the slab, it sounds pretty good.  There are plenty of slab homes out there built the way you describe.  What you don’t want is movement.     I’m not an expert by any means but I think footings on your slab wouldn’t be a bad idea and sinking your poles that deep should be a requirement.  If you don’t do footings, at least pour your slab thicker on the perimeter to hold it better.    Your local Authority Having Jurisdiction (AHJ) can be more restrictive than code, but not less.  So if it’s defined in the UBC, you have to do at least that much.
    • I’ve personally been on both sides of this.   Used to love getting as much air as possible over driveways but I never understood gunning it on the other side after crossing.  I guess some are just mild adrenaline junkies.    I quit doing that for one, because it’s illegal, and two, not safe if the homeowner happens to be leaving or getting the mail at the time.   Now that I have a posted trail going over my driveway, I find it just rude, obnoxious and irritating to deal with 4 wheelers and sleds gunning it over the gravel and making ruts and eroding my base to the point of it being an expense to either plow and pack the class 5 back in place or spend the money to pave it.  I hate having to bounce over two ruts with my trailers and whatever I’m hauling in them too.   I think that’s the worst part for me.  Either jump it or be mellow on the throttle the entire way over.   I’ve seen trail groomers go around driveways before, making me wonder if that truly is a requirement or they were simply being courteous.  But I agree with knoppers, they should not drag over the driveway.  Maybe they think they’re taking the snow off for ya.  Call the people responsible for the trail and ask them for suggestions.  
    • If you want to get through ice fast and are going to re-tool for it completely, look at a Nils before making your final decision. 
    • I am fully aware of this as are most people.
    • some people are bad apples that give the sport a bad name, I as a snowmobiler have respect for driveways. FYI driveway approaches are on the public right of way, you may not block them, or place anything that can injure someone. trail groomers actually do you a favor by knocking down the bank, to keep it level. unless your groomer was not well trained, they will not groom over your driveway.
  • MWO