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Heartman

Pulling lower unit - impeller change

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I'm having a bit of trouble pulling the lower unit off my 84 Evinrude 35hp. Am installing new impeller - have removed all four bolts holding lower unit on, as well as nut in front of gear hub, and can only get the lower unit loose - it will not come totally off. In other outboards I've changed impellers and had no trouble once the bolts are removed - anything I am not doing on this outboard?

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If I remember correctly from doing my '81 Evinrude 35hp, the shift linkage is still attached. I was able to keep it attached and support the lower unit without getting it apart, so I don't know the trick to get it completely off.

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On the side half way up the shaft should be a little plate with 2 screws that hides the bolts for the linkage that needs to be loosend before you can seperate the lower unit from the houseing.

Not remebering right off the top of my head if it was my honda or evinrude that had a 5th bolt under the cavitation plate some where but am pretty sure it was the honda?

Good luck with it.

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I did an identical (within a year or so) Evinrude 35 last summer and you as Basseyes said there is a 2" or so plate with 2 screws part way up motor and that is where the linkage is attached. You can loosen that with 2 wrenches. There also is a little piece of plastic that I can't quite explain but it broke on mine when I loosened the nuts and I had to buy a new one. Do a google search for Evinrude parts and one of the sites have a parts skematics that show all the parts on the lower unit. That should help you. You can always go to a library and check out a manual and that will detail the steps also.

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There is no plate half way up the side of the housing, on either side. Both sides of the midsection are clean from the top of the cavitation plate to the bolts that hold it to the powerhead - no access hatch - nothing of the sort.

Any other ideas? This might be a dandy - hope someone has seen this before.

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Is there something about 1" x 2" that looks like a vent screen a little above the cavition plate? It would be in the narrow part of the housing. Maybe my year is off and the motor is different but I thought mine was an '83 35 hp.

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You have to disconnect the shift rod. The small side access cover with shift rod coupler mentioned is used on earlier models.

For yours take off the hood and look under the carb. Move the shift lever it in and out of gear as you look, you'll barely see is and its a fun one to get at. Theres a pin with a clip. A long heavy duty hemostat will reach in to pull the clip.

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If you cannot access it under the carb you will have to remove it.

It might seem excessive and a pain to do but you will be happy you did when you RE-INSTALL !!! it's just 2 nuts and carb will come off, no need to disconnect everything

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The shift rod disconnect is located in the water pick up openings of the lower unit on that motor. Remove the 2 philips head screws to remove the screens and you will see the connector inside the opening.

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I am blind.

For the life of me I cannot see any kind of linkage pin underneath the carb. Took the carb off - nothing other than bolt heads. There is a 2-3" diameter hole in the lower cowl assembly leading downward into tower, and I can see a 7/16" or 1/2" bolt, but no hitch pin in it, like I believe I'm supposed to be looking for.

Back over on the shifter mechanism, inside the hood, are several small cotter pins holding shifting linkages together.

I ordered a Seloc Outboard Repair Manual online tonight - I hope that will help. Frustrated - just cannot see anything that looks like what y'all have described.

I quit for tonight - will not let this thing win today!

And I did find the shift rod disconnect in the water pickup opening - disconnected it, and was able to move lower unit 6" or so, But do not understand how I can access the top of the driveshaftby using that disconnect link. Seems like I'll pull everything out and only if I force it.

Beer here...cold beer here...

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Take the plastic keeper off the shift rod you found in the intake. Remove the jam nut. There is nothing near the top of the drive shaft to remove.

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Sorry for the wild goose chase. I could have sworn the 84 had the disconnect under the carb.

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Boatfixer, do I pull the drive shaft upward, out of the lower unit then? I mean to remove the old impeller and install the new - I need to get at one end of the shaft or the other, I believe.

Became a bit frustrated last night, and am ready to start the battle tonight. Can't be too far from a win here, folks...

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Remove the 4 screws holding the pump housing down. While holding the drive shaft down, lift off housing, remove impeller, don't lose the impeller drive pin or key, inspect housing for grooves. reverse process for reassembly. You don't have to remove the drive shaft for this. Also, while reinstalling the pump housing, slide housing down drive shaft to the impeller, rotate drive shaft clock wise while pushing housing down over impeller. A very light film of grease in the housing liner makes this a little easier, but over all it's quite simple.

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Boatfixer - Was able to pull impeller cover off, exposing impeller itself. It's shot, just like I thought. In any case, I cannot get the inpeller off the driveshaft - the impeller housing lower plate is held on the disconnect rod by the disconnect nut, and I cannot get the plate off to slide the old impeller off the lower end of the driveshaft, and new impeller back on. I'm in a jam - tried pulling driveshaft all the way out of the powerhead - that doesn't work either.

Removing that impeller housing lower plate is the answer - how do I get it off without ruining the lower disconnect nut/rod flare end?

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The whole lower unit should separate from the powerhead. The drive shaft stays with the lower unit and you should be able to pull the top impeller cover off and up over the drive shaft and then the impeller will follow. Be sure not to lose the key. Are you able to remove the lower unit with the drive shaft? It doesn't sound like it. There is a small black piece of plastic on top of the disconnect nut (can't remember what it's called) and you have to take that off carefully and then everything should be able to be removed from the powerhead etc.

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Yes, there is a small black flare piece on top of the disconnect end, which the nut fits down on top of. Tried to pull driveshaft all the way out, but meet pretty good resistance when driveshaft is about a foot and a half out. Should I keep pulling?

Boy, am I frustrated.

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I can't think of what could be causing the resistance. The black flare piece does need to come off. I bought the whole water pump repair kit and it had pretty good instructions. I saw them in the garage drawer the other day. I could fax them to you tomorrow if I remember to grab them from home tonight.

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Trying to send you a pm - fax here is 218-726-6394, Attn: Mark W. Would certainly appreciate your help in this matter. I'm a bit apprehensive about pulling that little black thingy off the end of the disconnect rod, so I could get the lower impeller housing plate off for impeller removal/installation.

Thanks again. Tell me again, does it look like I should be able to pull the driveshaft completely out of the powerhead? Maybe I'm not pulling hard enough - don't worry I'll wait to hear back from you.

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I also found the instructions for the waterpump kit from when I replaced it. It says the kit is for Evinrude 35hp from 1980 to present so it must be the same kit you're using. I could fax it if fivebucks forgets to grab his copy. Let me know, email is jwhjr17 at comcast dot net.

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Yes, you need to remove the keeper. There is a split in it. Carefully, with a thin screw driver, spread the keeper just enough to remove it and the whole lower unit will come right off. You will then be able to remove the housing and the impeller by sliding it UP the drive shaft. Be careful to not lose the pin.

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I will fax it over this AM. It is from a shop manual I copied from a neighbor who fixes motors. Good Luck!

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That is awesome news. Looks like I'm gonna win this battle after all! Thanks, friends!

Have the fax in hand - diagrams are clear and I should be able to finish my project. Thanks to all.

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Great to hear. Make sure to update us when you have it finished grin

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Mission accomplished! Fax copies of repair manual did the trick - water outflow looks great - all systems are go. Sometimes the toughest struggles are the ones that make us feel the best - thanks to all for the help!

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