Guests - If You want access to member only forums on HSO. You will gain access only when you sign-in or Sign-Up on HotSpotOutdoors.

It's easy - LOOK UPPER right menu.

Sign in to follow this  
Followers 0
ishgood

What are the pipes sticking up out of my septic system for?

10 posts in this topic

....and should they be covered or not?

I suspect they are some type of inspection access.

When did they or do they get used?

Thanks.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Thats the end of your trench. Should be covered and if everything goes right they don't get used.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Ya what ST said.

Statistically, their should be four finger/trench’s. What happens is each trench is used for about 5-7 years, depending on you septic usage. Again, statistically the first trench to be used is the one the left of the four trenches, with your holding/ leeching tank to your back. What happens is the first trench is used, until is it saturated to the point of no drainage. Then the system moves to the second trench and so on. You should get about 20-30 years of usage out of a drain field.

Now, the end caps (these are the four tubes sticking out at the end of the trench, the forward tubes can be buried) are used for cleaning in some cases, but more so for inspection on how the system is working.

I knew the guy very well who installed my drain field and he installed a vent cap on my first trench, which I will move in a couple years (or until I see down the tube how the trench is doing) to the next trench.

The other tubes up by the holding and leeching tanks are for clean out. I was told to clean these tank out by a septic company every 3 or so years during the spring time. By doing it during the spring time, helps generate the bacteria growth over the summer for less chance of a freeze out during winter.

I have some V.H.S. footage of my drain field being installed if anyone wants to see it grin.

P.S.

If you burry any of the tubes, silicon a large steel washer to the top of the cover for the tube, so you can find it easy with a metal detector.

Good luck!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

How does the system move to the next trench?

The first one stops draining so things back up and start flowing down the second trench?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

"How does the system move to the next trench?"

My system is on a hill with the trenches at different elevations. Between the trenches and tank are drop boxes. Everything flows to the bottom trench. If that trench become saturated the water moves to the next higher trench.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Your highest elevation trench line is the one that will be used first if the distribution box was installed correctly. Idea is once the bio-matt (layer that builds up on rock below distribution pipes) will eventually not allow effluent/water to seep through your rock at a fast enough rate to stay in front of what is coming from the tanks. Once this happens effluent/water can't get out of the distribution pipe and backs up into the distribution box filling it up slightly to a point where it can then flow out another port down to the next distribution box out the distribution pipe for that trench and the process starts over again.

If effluent ran to the lowest trench first and had to back up to the next higher one so on and so forth there would be seepage to the ground surface at the lowest trench location prior to the higher trenches being used as obviously there would be constant pressure from gravity forcing water into the lowest trench. This is typically how you would know that a trench system is lived out it's life.

Now to the original question...Assuming you are talking a trench system things where rather covered by the above posts. Just inspection pipes for the homeowner and or inspectors needs. Inspector being needed typically is the home is going up for sale and/or if a bedroom addition is planned (in most locations).

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

On my system the tank itself has 2 4" pipes coming up from the ground, and 4 small end caps on the ends of the drain lines. The 4" pipe on the end of the tank has a filter in it that needs to be cleaned out a couple times a year. Wouldn't hurt to take off those caps to check and see if there is a filter. Ya don't want that filter getting too plugged.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Pipes coming up from the tank are over the inlet and outlet ends. Usually 6" if there is a filter as it makes it easier to remove for cleaning but I guess not in your case. Recommend in spring and fall the filter gets pulled and sprayed off. Ones on the end of the drainfield line are as explained above. All can be cut off at ground level so that you don't have to mow around them, just over them. I wouldn't cover with dirt so that you know exactly where they are.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

If you do cover with dirt and have a metal detector, I have found Pipes at my parents many times but siliconing a 3" steel washer to the pipe cover. Good little tip I learned years back from a local septic guy.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.
Sign in to follow this  
Followers 0



  • Posts

    • The resharpening doesn't kill my vibe towards the K-drill over the Nils. Babying things aren't part of the average consumers mindset. Durability is what they want.    I'm still on the hunt for an electric version that will suit my newly adapted way of fishing. If I can drill 20 holes in a day I'll be as happy as a fat kid at a cake eating contest. 
    • Oh go back to the Hey eyeguy BBQ post and bug BigDave!
    • Because your usual response is to demand whether I support this of that from some politician or what you claim is "my party", to try to deflect and obfuscicate.   Nobody can make you do anything here, but if you are prescribing policy it seems like you should be able to defend it with facts.
    • You must buy it.... I know you don't catch them!!!
    • I'll have to wait till I find a fresh road kill!! A plug your pie hole ding dong!
    • Hey don't get me involved in your frivolous hokus pokus!
    • Fun fact, CO alarms actually won't go off until 70 ppm is reach over 60 minutes. I believe this stems from Chicago FD responding to too many false CO calls. Law was passed to increase the level of exposure to lower emergency calls. Sofia's law is challenging this on boats and trying to mandate low level CO detectors be installed...I believe the incident happened at much less.That said MN is the first state to require CO detectors on boats with cabins.   Get a CO detector that displays an actual reading or better yet, find a low level CO monitor.   CO has a half life of around 4 hours...meaning if u get exposed with a level of say 20, going outside a few minutes won't help much espically if you go back into your infected fishouse....after 4 hrs of fresh air you'll be down to 10...hence the importance of the CO monitor and not just thinking going outside once an hour is doing much good if u have a leak.   That story made headlines but there was another bad CO incident that happened that same week regarding an ice fisherman...who also did not have a CO detector.
    • Nils extensions go on the bottom of the auger and have the helical.  You remove the blade and put the extension on.  They are made for all models of Nils.   Yes of coarse I've used a Milwaukee Fuel with an 8" Nils and posted video.  Less torque, faster,  but most importantly better battery life using the Nils.   . Yes they weigh a pound or two more then the KDrill because they aren't made from plastic.    If this comes down to blades well let's go there then. Kdrill has free sharpening but takes 3 weeks.   Did you know the material taken off that type blade and mount means less bite and therefore can never cut like new.  That is also why it is up to thier discretion if your blade can be sharpened.   A Nils head is blade and mount and can be adjusted after sharpening to cut as new.   So a nick that would ruin the KDrill blades can be removed from the Nils and still cut like it was intended to. I recently repaired a Nils blade that was used to dig post holes. My point is a Nils should serve its owner for a very long time. In 10 years I've dulled one Nils blade and that was from drilling into some buried trash left on the ice.      
  • Our Sponsors