Guests - If You want access to member only forums on HSO. You will gain access only when you Sign-in or Sign-Up on HotSpotOutdoors.

It's easy - LOOK UPPER right menu.

  • Announcements

    • Rick

      Members Only Fluid Forum View   08/08/2017

      Fluid forum view allows members only to get right to the meat of this community; the topics. You can toggle between your preferred forum view just below to the left on the main forum entrance. You will see three icons. Try them out and see what you prefer.   Fluid view allows you, if you are a signed up member, to see the newest topic posts in either all forums (select none or all) or in just your favorite forums (select the ones you want to see when you come to Fishing Minnesota). It keeps and in real time with respect to Topic posts and lets YOU SELECT YOUR FAVORITE FORUMS. It can make things fun and easy. This is especially true for less experienced visitors raised on social media. If you, as a members want more specific topics, you can even select a single forum to view. Let us take a look at fluid view in action. We will then break it down and explain how it works in more detail.   The video shows the topic list and the forum filter box. As you can see, it is easy to change the topic list by changing the selected forums. This view replaces the traditional list of categories and forums.   Of course, members only can change the view to better suit your way of browsing.   You will notice a “grid” option. We have moved the grid forum theme setting into the main forum settings. This makes it an option for members only to choose. This screenshot also shows the removal of the forum breadcrumb in fluid view mode. Fluid view remembers your last forum selection so you don’t lose your place when you go back to the listing. The benefit of this feature is easy to see. It removes a potential barrier of entry for members only. It puts the spotlight on topics themselves, and not the hierarchical forum structure. You as a member will enjoy viewing many forums at once and switching between them without leaving the page. We hope that fluid view, the new functionality is an asset that you enjoy .
Sign in to follow this  
Dahitman44

trouble with lowrance locator/ transducer location?

Recommended Posts

I had problems with this unit last year as well. Seemed like we had the issues cleared up, but I will try an explain everything that is / has been going on.

Ok -- it is an x-17C/ (I think) it was about $1,000 w/ gps and bigger screen.

Ok -- put it on my new trophy 185 last year and mounted it myself on a plate I put in. The plate location was where the "book" showed me which was about halfway between middle of the back of the boat and the "right" side. That is the side of the ladder location, but when I asked the dealer they said it will not be a problem.

Last year I lost "contact with the bottom and had a lot of flashing depths. i tried everything including running its own power to a battery and everything.

I called Lowrance custer service and they were not much help.

I ended up running a different transducer and that seemed to work. I left the old one on the boat just not mounted.

I went fishing during the opener and I could not get it to get a reading on the bottom. i cleaned it off, checked cabels, blew on them, turned it off etc.

For the heck of it I hooked up the old transducer that did not work and it worked better than the other one.

One thought I had was the transducer location is by the ladder and the kids were in and out of the boat quite a bit when it was in the driveway, maybe they hit it?

The water temp did work, but no bottom reading.

I am going to hook up the "old" one and mount it and I got a new ducer from lowrance as well and I might hook that up too. I am also going to change the location of the ducer plate making it further from the later and lower in the water and closer to the middle of the back of the boat.

Any thoughts to my issue?

Thanks

Hitman

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I had similar problems with my X91 last year that worked just fine for 3 years...the transducer slowly stopped working basically...stopped reading bottom at higher speeds, then slowly stopped reading bottom altogether... New transducer for $70 fixed the problem........for about 2 months at which point the unit just wouldn't power on.

Does your ducer work when the boat isn't moving???

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

First eliminate the transducers placement as the problem. If its working when your not moving then theres your problem. You'll want no ribs in fount of the ducer. If you have a V-hull that goes all the way back to the transom, its possible your boat is lifting out of the water enough that the ducer is loosing contact with the water. Next realign the angle of the ducer and its depth. The ducers bottom should not be above any point of the hulls V. The angle of the ducer should be that the front of the ducer is raised a hair so the water flows across the bottom of the ducer without cavatation.

If your not getting a reading when sitting still chances are your ducer is bad which from my observations, happening more often with LEI transducers.

About the swim ladder. If the ducer is getting banged move it over to the other side of the boat. The reason for suggesting mounting it on that side is because of turbulences from the props rotation. Just don't move it so far off center that it'll loose contact with the water.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

The angle of the ducer should be that the front of the ducer is raised a hair so the water flows across the bottom of the ducer without cavatation.

Great post ST...I am having problems too and I think this may be it. I'm sure an old manual I had showed the ducer tipped down a hair so that's the way I've always had it. What you're saying makes sense. I'm going to try that. Thanks!!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

You'll want no ribs in fount of the ducer. If you have a V-hull that goes all the way back to the transom, its possible your boat is lifting out of the water enough that the ducer is loosing contact with the water. Next realign the angle of the ducer and its depth. The ducers bottom should not be above any point of the hulls V. The angle of the ducer should be that the front of the ducer is raised a hair so the water flows across the bottom of the ducer without cavatation.

Not sure if I follow you. the back of my boat looks like a V so I need to have the transducer sitting below the "point in the V" which is the middle of the boat? is that what you are saying?

Also -- what about the bumps from the rivots will that cause some problems when I mount the mounting plate?

Thanks.

Hit

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

If your not getting a reading when sitting still chances are your ducer is bad which from my observations, happening more often with LEI transducers.

I have been reading issues on here about Lowrance units losing bottom signal. I too am experiencing this right now. Sometimes it happens even when the boat is sitting still so it would seem to be the transducer. But is there another brand that can be used with my Lowrance 522c GPS/Sonar that is more depandable than the LEI?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Note how the bottom left portion of the ducer is a hair bellow the hull. boatone.gif

As said, if your not getting a reading when sitting still its the transducer.

As far as blinking off and on, please explain more.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Ok --

Currently, my mounting plate and my first ducer (one not working) is located about 24 inches from V-point in the middle of the back of my boat. It is directly in the middle of my boat ladder.

I measured and there is room for a 6-inch plate a few inches from the middle V area. Then there is three round "rivot heads" then about six more inches for the plate and then more rivots and the start of the originall mounting plate.

So -- any thoughts to where I should mount it?

I would like to mount the plate right over the rivots, but it will not fit flush so I think that is a bad idea.

would the section closer to the "V" or the next section over be best? Any thoughts?

thanks

Hit

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Lets start fresh and reboot your sounder. With the sounder off, push in and hold both zoom buttons. Continue to hold in the zoom buttons while turning the power on. You'll hear a beep.

While sitting still in shallow water can you read bottom? If no your ducer is bad. If yes, try it in deeper water. Has the bottom faded or is it loosing bottom? If no, your ducer is probably good.

About the rivets, don't worry about the rivets on the transom, its the rivets on the hull that you try to avoid mounting the ducer in back of. Anything that could cavatate in front of the ducer is not good. As long as there isn't any part of the ladder hanging in the water when your underway then its just a matter of the ducer not getting banged. If your 24" from center you could move it a little closer. As long as you have the ducer below the hull like shown in the picture and that its bottom surface is parallel to the surface of the water your fine.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

While sitting still in shallow water can you read bottom? If no your ducer is bad. If yes, try it in deeper water. Has the bottom faded or is it loosing bottom? If no, your ducer is probably good.

I am having similar issues with my X71. Are you saying that if the bottom is faded in deep water that the ducer is bad or going bad?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

"I am having similar issues with my X71. Are you saying that if the bottom is faded in deep water that the ducer is bad or going bad?"

If the bottom content is the same, then yes your ducer could be on the way out. If you have to max out the gain to pick up bottom then your ducer is on its way out.

I'll explain further. Say you in 10' of water and your can pick up bottom. As you get out to 25' or 30' you start noticing a faded bottom. First thing you do is increase the gain, that doesn't do anything. Go deeper and things get worse. That is a ducer that is not good. If you think back to when your sounder was new you'll realize it right away. Or do this, put it in simulate mode. Pay no attention the the hooks, just compare bottom. Before someone says theres a difference between soft and hard bottom, I know that. The sim mode is just a reference.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Hey all, don't forget the issues with the software! I had issues with about six units in different boats, all losing bottom at speed, in shallow water, etc. Lowrance had never admitted this as an issue, it was. I downdated all of the units to a previous version, ang they worked just fine. I have since installed the newest version, and have had no problems. Always keep a copy of the older versions on your computer, just in case the new version is no good. Did you do a software update over the winter? What version are you running?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.
Sign in to follow this  



  • Posts

    • I can't see the pics?
    • You might be better off trying to do some research on your own on the old shotgun. I think it would be a waste of time taking it to Cabela's since most of the folks  who work there now think  any gun made before 1970 is an antique. The gun surely is made in Europe and might have originated in one of the English or Belgian or even German "guild" shops, little outfits that cranked out inexpensive guns that did not even bear maker's names since they were made by a "bunch" of guys. Your best bet would be to trace or photograph the proof marks and go from there.  That is,  I'm assuming it has proof marks :).
    • For an exciting adventure in shooting grab an old "trapdoor" Springfield and rattle off a few rounds of 45-70 or 45-90.  If you're of skinny build and little weight it'll give you a THUMP you'll remember!   Perfect deer cartridge for MN though since that big ol' bullet will go churning through the brush like a D-8 Cat until it hit's it's target. Have been around the old '94 30-30 since way back when and while it is handy it is not that accurate and lacks the knock-down power of many, many of today's rounds. But if you just have to have one as I always say, it''s your money. Keep in mind you can buy the .35 Remington in a pump action,   which a lot of MN duck hunters find easy to use come deer season.
    • I have an old Damascus barreled shotgun that was passed on to me by my grandpa. The story I have always heard and been told is that it was brought over from Denmark by my great grandfather in 1915. It has no markings indicating where it was made or anything else that I could use to figure out some history on the gun. It is a pin fire and has a stag carved into the underside of the stock. Anyone have any ideas on where I could find any info on this? I had thought about bringing it to Cabelas and see if they knew anything about it. I'm not concerned about the value. I'd just like to know a little more about it or even get pointed in the right direction. 
    • I like the .30-.30 because of availability and affordability of the ammo but I think the .35 Remington may be a better overall round. I don't know anything about the .45-70 Gov. though.
    • I wouldn't mind having a lever action 30-30 just because everyone should have one. I'd bet a big percentage of us carried one our first time out deer hunting. My grandpa had a Marlin in either .44 or .357 that I wish I'd have gotten. I've also thought about a 45-70. 
    • This is an intriguing round for sure. Ballistics and long range performance is supposed to be good. Ammo seems priced reasonably.  A big plus is that you can get it in an AR-15 and with a 90 grain bullet I wouldn't be afraid to use it on deer sized animals. I've always liked the idea of having multiple uppers for my AR. 
    • The Trestle got 10+ inches of snow today ,,, May have to make plans to go take a peek at the trails this weekend ,,, Hopefully the groomers can get out and pack the trail a little bit to cover the rocks 
    • Ha! I am looking into the app controller outlets but not for plugging in the pickup. I just built a deck on the back of the house and I'm going to pull wire and add some extra outlets out there for lights. They'll be much easier than putting in more switches to control them. 
  • Our Sponsors