Guests - If You want access to member only forums on HSO. You will gain access only when you sign-in or Sign-Up on HotSpotOutdoors.

It's easy - LOOK UPPER right menu.

Sign in to follow this  
Followers 0

occasional hard starting on 2000 Dakota

9 posts in this topic

2000 Dakota Sport club cab...

4.7 with an automatic trans.

it's been hard starting lately, sometimes rough idle as well. I've replaced the plugs (they had worn to double the called for gap) and the air filter; this corrected most of the problem. However it still on occasion hard starts, although I haven't thus far been able to discern any pattern.

This afternoon I'm planning to run some Seafoam thru the top end to see if there is any accumulated gunk that can be cleared out.

can anyone offer any suggestions as to where I might look next?

Share this post

Link to post
Share on other sites


Any check eng. light's pop on while driving?

I would say a throttle body clean might be a good starting point and should be done also every 30-40,000 miles.

Share this post

Link to post
Share on other sites

When you say hard starting is it taking longer than normal to actually start (extended crank) or does it start and then stall right away or does it sputter as you crank it over and then finally start.

All three of these are fairly common starting symptoms for the Dakota.

Share this post

Link to post
Share on other sites

shack- no lights... and the cleaning shall commence forthwith~ wink

Airjer- cranking for 5-10 seconds, as opposed to popping right off.. with the sputter happening every once in a blue moon.

Share this post

Link to post
Share on other sites

You need to get the fuel pressure checked! Fuel pressure bleed down is very common for these and will result in an extended crank. Something you can try is cycle the key a couple of times (turn the key to run (do not crank) for two seconds then off then run for two seconds then start it). If this resolves the extended crank then theres a pretty good chance a fuel pump is in your future.

Share this post

Link to post
Share on other sites

All three of these are fairly common starting symptoms for the Dakota.

Airjer is right; these concerns can go along time with out any failure.

Could be a possible precursor to a week fuel pump, which may or may not fail soon. I would say a fuel pressure test might be another possible starting point. See if the fuel system is holding pressure. You could try a fuel system leak down test. I will click and post below:



Use this test in conjunction with the Fuel Pump

Pressure Test and Fuel Pump Capacity Test.

Check Valve Operation: The electric fuel pump

outlet contains a one-way check valve to prevent fuel

flow back into the tank and to maintain fuel supply

line pressure (engine warm) when pump is not operational.

It is also used to keep the fuel supply line

full of gasoline when pump is not operational. After

the vehicle has cooled down, fuel pressure may drop

to 0 psi (cold fluid contracts), but liquid gasoline will

remain in fuel supply line between the check valve

and fuel injectors. Fuel pressure that has

dropped to 0 psi on a cooled down vehicle

(engine off) is a normal condition. When the electric

fuel pump is activated, fuel pressure should

immediately (1–2 seconds) rise to specification.

Abnormally long periods of cranking to restart a

hot engine that has been shut down for a short

period of time may be caused by:

² Fuel pressure bleeding past a fuel injector(s).

² Fuel pressure bleeding past the check valve in

the fuel pump module.

² A defective fuel filter/pressure regulator.

Two #6539, 5/16”, Fuel Line Pressure Test Adapter

Hose Tools are required for the following tests.

(1) Release fuel system pressure. Refer to Fuel

Pressure Release Procedure.

(2) Raise vehicle.

Fuel Line Identification: The fuel filter/pressure

regulator is located in front of the fuel tank and

above the rear axle. It is transversely mounted to a

chassis crossmember (left-to-right). The filter/regulator

is equipped with 3 fuel line fittings (2 at one end

and 1 at the other end). The single fitting facing the

left side of the vehicle is the supply line to the fuel

rail (Fig. 1) . The 2 fittings facing the right side of

the vehicle are connected to the fuel tank. Of these 2

fittings, the fitting towards the front is used for fuel

return to the fuel tank. The fitting towards the rear

is a pressure line. This rear fitting must be disconnected

for the following step.

(3) See previous step. Disconnect fuel pressure line

at rear of filter/regulator. This is a 5/169 quick-connect

fitting (Fig. 1) . Refer to Quick-Connect Fittings

for procedures.

(4) Obtain correct Fuel Line Pressure Test Adapter

Hose Tool # 6539 for 5/16” fuel lines. Connect one

end of this Special Tool into the disconnected fuel

pressure line. Connect the other end of the Tool into

fitting on filter/regulator.

(5) Lower vehicle.

(6) Disconnect the fuel inlet line at fuel rail. Refer

to Quick-Connect Fittings for procedures. On some

engines, air cleaner housing removal may be necessary

before fuel line disconnection.

(7) Obtain a second Fuel Line Pressure Test

Adapter Hose Tool # 6539 for 5/16” fuel lines. Connect

this tool between disconnected fuel line and fuel

rail (Fig. 2) .

(8) Connect the 0-414 kPa (0-60 psi) fuel pressure

test gauge (from Gauge Set 5069) to the test port on

the appropriate Adaptor Tool. NOTE: The DRB III

Scan Tool along with the PEP module, the 500

psi pressure transducer, and the transducer-totest

port adapter may also be used in place of

the fuel pressure gauge.

CAUTION: The fittings on both tools must be in

good condition and free from any small leaks

before performing the proceeding test.

(9) Start engine and bring to normal operating


(10) Observe fuel pressure test gauge (or DRB

screen). Normal operating pressure should be 339

kPa ± 34 kPa (49.2 psi ± 5 psi).

(11) Shut engine off.

(12) Pressure should not fall below 30 psi for five


(13) If pressure falls below 30 psi, it must be

determined if a fuel injector, the supply check valve

within the fuel pump module, the fuel filter/pressure

regulator, or a fuel tube/line is leaking.

(14) Again, start engine and bring to normal operating


(15) Shut engine off.

(16) Testing for fuel injector or fuel rail leakage:

Clamp off the rubber hose portion of the 6539

Adaptor Tool between the fuel rail and the test port

“T” on Adapter Tool (be sure clamping pressure is

sufficient). If pressure now holds at or above 30 psi, a

fuel injector or the fuel rail is leaking.

(17) Again, start engine and bring to normal operating


(18) Shut engine off.

(19) Raise vehicle.

(20) Testing for fuel filter/pressure regulator

leakage: While continuing to securely clamp

between the fuel rail and the test port 9T9 on Adaptor

Tool 6539, securely clamp off any rubber hose portion

of the Adaptor Tool 6539 that was installed

between the fuel pressure line and the filter/regulator

fitting (by restricting the pump module supply

line’s backflow, you isolate any leakdown originating

from the filter/regulator via the tank return line.) If

the pressure falls below 30 psi within 5 minutes, the

filter/regulator is leaking. If it now holds at or above

30 psi, the electric fuel pump check valve is leaking

or a fuel tube/line is leaking. A fuel odor presence

would indicate the latter.

The electric fuel pump is not serviced separately. If

replacement is necessary, replace the fuel pump module

assembly. The filter/regulator may be replaced

separately. Refer to Fuel Filter/Fuel Pressure Regulator

Removal/Installation for additional information.

Share this post

Link to post
Share on other sites

The fuel filter/pressure

regulator is located in front of the fuel tank and

above the rear axle. It is transversely mounted to a

chassis crossmember (left-to-right)

What year manual did that come out of? grin

Share this post

Link to post
Share on other sites

Sorry, I should have proof read this first all the way threw grin.

Should be for a 2001. It also might be for a Chero Jeep.

Ah, it gives ya a basic view.

Share this post

Link to post
Share on other sites
This topic is now closed to further replies.
Sign in to follow this  
Followers 0

  • Posts

    •     I believe you said it was "libertarian" drivel, actually, so you dismissed it out of hand...          
    •   You posted about neither.     But if you would read the article, my commentary and TJ's commentary you would know that's not really what the article is about.     You have to be kidding, right? Just about everyone who has an opinion on politics at all is this sort of person. Do you look at social media at all?
    •     Ok, now getting back to whether Trump will win the War on Drugs, do you think he will take any steps at all to decriminalize drugs, such as reclassifying marijuana, and recognizing state laws and programs designed to move towards the decriminalization of drugs?   Or do you think he will take steps to protect vested interests, such as prisons and the pharmaceutical. industry?   Just going off his rhetoric and his choice for a drug czar, I'm guessing he much prefers the latter, and will end up spending a bunch of taxpayer's money, and actually lose ground by continuing on with the brute force/criminalization approach.        
    • Because at the time, I don't have anything better to do.   I posted about the article, and you wanted to talk about the topic.  I posted about the topic and you want to discuss the article.    Which is it?     I support a particular candidate because their positions, taken as a whole, are preferable to me as compared to the other candidate(s).   In a few years I get to do it over.     I don't think there are really that many ardent "rah rah for my party" type folks out there, in spite of what we see on TV, or the occasional people we meet.     So the article is basically drivel, as I said before, based on a false premise.   
    • Borch I just signed up Ryan, Morgan, and me but I only see my name listed in the summary. Do my kids not show up because they don't have hso usernames?  Or did I not enter it right?     Please let me know how to fix it and I'll do so.  Thanks!
    •   Because I think self reflection is good for all of us from time to time.   If you don't wan't to discuss this article, why do you persist in posting here?           No one is disputing that at all. The premise of the author's article is in regards to the hypocrisy of then justifying everything your chosen candidate or party does blindly while vilifying the other candidates or party. It's the "all in" sports like mentality that is being discussed here.  
    • There is a really excellent book called "The Righteous Mind" that approaches this tribalist mindset from an evolutionary psychology standpoint. The author, Jonathan Haidt, does a remarkable job of unpacking why people persist in truly irrational defense of the indefensible - when it's their team doing the stupid stuff. I highly highly highly recommend it to anyone who is interested in lessening the hyperpartisan idiocy we have today.

      The trouble is that the closed-off mindset that lends itself to reflexive support for Obama/Hillary/Trump/whomever also tends to preclude any serious engagement in self-examination that the book is designed to provoke. Really good read, though.
    •   I get what your saying here but I think what Dave is talking about is the willingness of some to blindly follow, without question, their party or candidate. I saw this first hand during the primary with some of my own relatives, for example. I had a SIL who was a huge Bernie backer. The things she said about Hillary were worse than anything said here. As far as she was concerned, Hillary should be tarred and feathered and ran out on a rail. Then Bernie loses the nomination. She then became Hillary's biggest defender. Everything she said about her during the primary was instantly washed away. Even her own husband called her out. She wasn't simply voting for her because she found Trump worse. That's understandable. She defended or at least tried to deflect the issues with Hillary when just a few months prior, she said things that would make even Cooter or Bill say, "man you're harsh on her."   I don't think this is a new phenomenon. I also don't think it's widespread. Like everything else, access to more and diverse information just makes it possible to hear more about it than before. I think human nature causes people to internalize candidates and/.or elected officials. It's a "if you're critical of my candidate, you're critical of me," kind of thinking.   I don't fault anyone for voting for a candidate that one feels best represents their line of thinking. Or even defending their candidate from detractors. I don't think that is what Dave is talking about here. It's also the flipping of political opinions just because the candidate you voted for or support is supporting certain positions. For example, many conservatives opposed BHO's stimulus, including myself. It didn't work  as promised and we just added more on to the debt. So on the campaign trail, Trump also spoke of a stimulus plan that was even more expensive than BHO's and  those same people not only supported it but are justifying it. In summary, one can vote for a candidate without defending everything that person does        
    •  Come on.   The world, life is a bit more complicated then that.          Quit passing the blame. Your whole thesis is on choice and owning it.   Let me guess, you hate big banking also since they made it easy to refinance and purchase.   It just proves that general society is incapable of making the right decisions as a whole.   Sorry, you go down with the ship.    
  • Our Sponsors