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Seabass77

Guidewear: How to Care For

Question

Just wondering how you guys wash your guidewear?

- Drycleaning?
- Just simple detergant and water
- Gortex wash?
- You just don't wash it?

Thanks everyone.

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I've been using some stuff called Sportwash that I found at WalMart in the sporting goods department. Been using it on most outdoors type items, including Gore-tex (and even the duck hunting stuff smelling of blood, wet lab and loonsh&t) and it works real well. It is a liquid that comes in a white bottle with an orange, white and blue label.

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I just hang mine up to dry, and then it gets stuffed back into the sack, and then back into dry storage in the boat.

I have never given it a thought, but I guess this stuff could be washed? wink.gif

[This message has been edited by Fish-n-Freak (edited 06-12-2002).]

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A non-bleaching granular soap is best, some say do not use liquid detergents. Allow the powder soap to dissolve fully and then add the gear to the washer to avoid lumpy soap turd spots all over your gear.

Liquid detergents tend to remove more of the waterproofing treatment and you will need to re-treat them sooner, and more often. Eventually you will need to treat the GORE-TEX® gear so get the spray reproofing stuff called REVIVEX® when you have a chance.

After 4 or 5 washes the surface treatment is due for a spray down after the full drying process, then they are as good as new again.

Some say you can use the REVIVEX® spray as you steam iron them, but be VERY CAREFULL if you do try this, they can scorch, so be cautious.

I use an AMWAY powder soap product and then air dry the gear. You can dry them on warm or toss them in the dryer on cool to fluff up the insulated GORE-TEX® GUIDE WEAR a bit.

AVOID fabric softeners as it can diminish the waterproofing and some may discolor the fabric on certain colors of Guide Wear. GORE-TEX® suggests that fabric softeners will also diminish the free breathing characteristics of the GORE TECH fabric and diminish their performance.

You can find full directions at the GORE-TEX® web site, listed under care of GORE-TEX® products.

GORE-TEX®
http://www.gorefabrics.com/

Care of GORE-TEX® products by type.

WINDSTOPPER® SUPPRESCENT® OUTERWEAR

WASH
Machine-wash warm (104° F/40° C). Powder or liquid unscented detergent. No fabric softener.

DRY CLEAN
Not applicable.

IRON
Steam-iron warm.

BLEACH
Do not bleach.

DRY
Tumble-dry warm.

WATER REPELLENT TREATMENT
Follow garment manufacturer's instructions. Gore recommends REVIVEX® water and stain repellent for restoring the water repellent finish on WINDSTOPPER® shell fabrics.

STAIN REMOVAL
Use pre-wash treatment such as Shout or Spray 'n Wash. Follow the pre-wash manufacturer's instructions. Rinse well.

http://search.atomz.com/search/?sp-q=washing&sp-a=sp100162fe&sp-p=all&radio_2=sp1001b5 e8

For information on where to buy REVIVEX® Water and Stain Repellent and how to use it, call REVIVEX® at (800) 455-4184.

I hope this is of help to you.

Backwater Eddy.....><sUMo>

Backwater Guiding
"Ed on the RED"
(701)-281-2300

backwtr1@msn.com

http://home.talkcity.com/ResortRd/backwtr1/index.html

[This message has been edited by Backwater Eddy (edited 06-13-2002).]

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There is a product called NIKWAX Techwash, that is specifically formulated for goretex and other high tech fabrics. It is available at many outdoor sports stores. Also their line of footgear care products is second to none for caring for leather, suade, and fabric boots and shoes. I would highly recommend something like this for any expensive piece of gear instead of normal detergents.

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Wow, thanks for all the great answers. I really appreciate you help.

- Joe

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  • Your Responses - Share & Have Fun :)

    •   Sounds plausible to me.  Is the thickened footing in your mind the same as pouring the perimeter of the slab thicker?  We did an 8 inch perimeter around the 4 inch slab.
    • Yes. But on a post framed building the only think I ever see is a thickened footing and not a foundation to the frost line. A major benefit of post framing is that you install the posts below the frost line so the need for a concrete foundation below the frost line is not needed. If I am understanding the question correctly. 
    • FYI driveway approaches are on the public right of way, you may not block them, or place anything that can injure someone.   May a person park their own vehicle in their own driveway approach?
    • I think they’re more looking at the footings requirement, aren’t they?  Thus the reason for getting the poles below the frost line?   Its the township’s responsibility to figure this out and you have the right to ask them to cite the code they’re following.   I used to live in Isanti County and dealt with a building inspector from my township on the construction of my detached garage.  Things weren’t very strict to say the least.     We built everything by the current UBC code, so I’d suggest first getting a copy of the current version of that since this building will actually be your home.  Don’t take unnecessary shortcuts to save a few bucks up front.  You’ll eventually regret it.   Reading your plans for the slab, it sounds pretty good.  There are plenty of slab homes out there built the way you describe.  What you don’t want is movement.     I’m not an expert by any means but I think footings on your slab wouldn’t be a bad idea and sinking your poles that deep should be a requirement.  If you don’t do footings, at least pour your slab thicker on the perimeter to hold it better.    Your local Authority Having Jurisdiction (AHJ) can be more restrictive than code, but not less.  So if it’s defined in the UBC, you have to do at least that much.
    • I’ve personally been on both sides of this.   Used to love getting as much air as possible over driveways but I never understood gunning it on the other side after crossing.  I guess some are just mild adrenaline junkies.    I quit doing that for one, because it’s illegal, and two, not safe if the homeowner happens to be leaving or getting the mail at the time.   Now that I have a posted trail going over my driveway, I find it just rude, obnoxious and irritating to deal with 4 wheelers and sleds gunning it over the gravel and making ruts and eroding my base to the point of it being an expense to either plow and pack the class 5 back in place or spend the money to pave it.  I hate having to bounce over two ruts with my trailers and whatever I’m hauling in them too.   I think that’s the worst part for me.  Either jump it or be mellow on the throttle the entire way over.   I’ve seen trail groomers go around driveways before, making me wonder if that truly is a requirement or they were simply being courteous.  But I agree with knoppers, they should not drag over the driveway.  Maybe they think they’re taking the snow off for ya.  Call the people responsible for the trail and ask them for suggestions.  
    • If you want to get through ice fast and are going to re-tool for it completely, look at a Nils before making your final decision. 
    • I am fully aware of this as are most people.
    • some people are bad apples that give the sport a bad name, I as a snowmobiler have respect for driveways. FYI driveway approaches are on the public right of way, you may not block them, or place anything that can injure someone. trail groomers actually do you a favor by knocking down the bank, to keep it level. unless your groomer was not well trained, they will not groom over your driveway.
    • If code allows post frame for residential construction then by design you don't need a block foundation. 
    • Perfect that awnsers my question. Why spend $250 when I could spend $150 on a new lazer bit and cuts faster, it’s more durable but still about same weight and a chipper but. Really a no brainer. What are you seeing for drilling time with that 8 inch lazer?
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