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huskminn

FL-8 basic info, please!

14 posts in this topic

On Saturday I will join the ranks of all you FL-8 owners and I am looking for some basic and not-so-basic introductory info.

I am familiar with the unit's function, differing colors vis-a-vis strength of return signal, etc. I also read the ice-ducer tuning thread posted here on the site. I've visited the Vexilar's web-site and read their information, but I still have some Q's.

When setting up in a hole, should the 'ducer be to the side of the hole or in the center? Also, I have read that it's important that your jig/bait be in the center of the signal. Does that mean the one should hold the line as close to the cable and 'ducer as possible or is it okay to fish it a few inches away to avoid tangles, etc? I hope these Q's don't seem too anal, but this FL-8 thing seems like a science to me, so I'm asking.

Also, a friend of mine has advised me that "when your jig turns red, set the hook, the fish has taken it". Is this generally true (seems too easy to me)?

This next question depends a little on what the answer to the last one is.....does one want to fish a float for strike-detection when using an FL-8? Obviously, when jigging, a float can be cumbersome, but I tend to be a float fisherman. I don't have much confidence in my ability to detect a light bite while I'm holding the rod in my hand. Is the FL-8 going to boost my confidence in hand-held strike detection?

Thanks in advance for your responses!

Good Luck.........

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"When setting up in a hole, should the 'ducer be to the side of the hole or in the center?"

To the side is fine. We're only talking a maximum of a 10 inch hole here.

"Also, I have read that it's important that your jig/bait be in the center of the signal. Does that mean the one should hold the line as close to the cable and 'ducer as possible or is it okay to fish it a few inches away to avoid tangles, etc?"

With a 19° cone angle from your transducer in 20 feet depth, you'll be covering about
a 6.7 foot diameter.

"Also, a friend of mine has advised me that "when your jig turns red, set the hook, the fish has taken it". Is this generally true (seems too easy to me)?"

Not really true. A fish just got closer but maybe not really took the bait yet.

"This next question depends a little on what the answer to the last one is.....does one want to fish a float for strike-detection when using an FL-8?"

I use a spring bobber at the end of my pole. Some fish barely tipped that for a bite detection. Some, I just saw the line move across the hole without moving my son's small float.

"Is the FL-8 going to boost my confidence in hand-held strike detection?"

You'll see what we're talking about after using it. You won't want to fish without it.

"Thanks in advance for your responses!"

No sweat. I'm not a pro, but I think I gave you accurate info. GOOD LUCK!


PS...huskminn, If I see a guy scratching his head while siting in front of an FL-8 on Rush, I'll know it's you smile.gif

[This message has been edited by Dave (edited 01-03-2001).]

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When I find fish, I usally drill a hole just for the floating transducer, its just easier for me to do that because I only have a 6" hole, that way I have no tangles. I know this is more work but I just find it easier,

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Thanks for the info, guys. I'm looking forward to having a good ol' head-scratching time.

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sometimes when they are biting real light and I am pounding a jig I will incorporate a lift and drop in my jigging pattern to use when a fish comes up and reds all over my bait.I have gotten a lot of fish doing this, that I might not have gotten had I waited for an indication of a stike. As a bonus, while you gently lift even if they are not hooked they will follow your bait up and sometimes still be enticed to strike.

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Has anyone ever had a problem with the stopper above the float on the transducer cable sliding up the cable from the weight of the transducer? Any ideas on how to take care of this problem?

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Scott, never had that problem. The rubber stop should actually push down into the top of the float piece; therefore "clamping" or squeezing the rubber stop on to the cable.

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Being a brand-new FL-8 owner, I don't know what I can contribute, but, here goes....

I haven't a problem with the stopper slipping and I'm sure you've got it installed properly, but just in case, make sure it's "right-side-up". According to the manual, there is a right and wrong way to slip the stopper over the cable.

If that isn't the problem, maybe putting a small rubber band around the cable above the stopper would work. It seems that you should be able to get the rubber band over the transducer and still have it tight enough to act as a stop for the stopper. It should also roll fairly easily if/when you need to move it.

Might work?

Good Luck........

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Thanks a lot for the tips! I'll give them a shot this weekend.

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Scott, If the stopper and the float are on correctly, take the rubber stopper off and place in hot water and see if the gap closes.
If it is always closed tight and still might slid, take off and with a single edged razer blade carefullu cut the gap a little larger. It worked for me.

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There's a slit in the rubber stopper. Mine moves tough until I slip a finger nail into the slit to spread the rubber stopper.

huskminn made a great point. Make sure it's on the right way. The small diameter end goes towards the ducer.

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My problem ended up being that the float was put on upside down so the rubber stopper never went into the hole on the float. I used it this weekend and everything worked perfect except for the fish not cooperating. Thanks again for the help.

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For once, a simple solution works! Gotta like that. smile.gif

Good luck........

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That's great news! Now, if we can only get fish to bite on hook smile.gif

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