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    • Rick

      Members Only Fluid Forum View   08/08/2017

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Benny

Meat grinders,manual or electric???

Question

My hunting party and I are going to start making our own hamberger,salaumi and sausage this year.I would like to get some input on what style,size and brands work for all you people.
My ques would be at least a size 32 grinder and a large stuffer.

Part two question is about smoking the meat.
Is it better to use liquid smoke or to actually smoke the meat in a smoker?

Thanks,Benny

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Benny If your only going to grind once a year get a hand grinder. Northern Tool has them for for under 30 bucks. Once you have the hand grinder you can keep an eye open for an old commercial electric grinder. Don't bother stuffing with your grinder, get a 3 lb stuffer, their much faster and less work.

Smoking sausage requires accurate temp control. A thermostat or some way to control temp is a must.

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If your entire group is going to use it I would pitch together and get an electric grinder. It would make it much easier when you have to do more than one deer.

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I've done both, and if your doing very many deer, an electric is definitely the way to go. Especially if everyone chips in. Call me a wussy, but it's amazing at how quickly your arm is ready to fall off from the repetitious hand cranking. Also, look at it from a practical aspect. There's no way to duplicate the speed of an electric, and if time is money how soon would you have paid for the electric one in additional time spent cranking.

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Steve @ Bakken's Boat Shop www.bakkensboatshop.com

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I agree with Steve. We just made about 100# of sausage (6 deer) and with out the electric grinder, we'd still be there!! What we have is a large hand grinder that we coverted with a garage door opener motor to have "more power" grin.gif Saves a TON of time!!

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If you get an electric, get a good one. I have a Oster (?) brand, white plastic housing, think it was about $100 new. Got it for $20 at Fingerhut. Problem is that it tends to bind up with the "silver skin". You either have to cut 99% of the silver skin off or you have to cut very small pieces, across the silver skin, or it continually plugs the screen.

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The easiest way to go is bring it to a meat market. They have the right equipment and in about 10 minutes they'll be done. It cost me 41 cents a pound to have it ground. Also if you smoke your sausage make sure you use a cure and watch your temp. carefully.

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One way we've found to avoid the "silver skin blues" is after every couple of hours of use, take the two metal cutting surfaces off and slide them around for a couple seconds on an oiled knife sharpening stone.

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Steve @ Bakken's Boat Shop www.bakkensboatshop.com

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I found my old #32 manual hooked up to an old washing machine motor works well for grinding. I see now outdoor store sell the pulley now for adapting. For stuffing look at auctions for the ol cast iron stuffers. You can get one for 50 -75 bucks. Had mine 20+ yrs and must be close to 100 yrs old and still works great. I just have a small smoker so my sausage has to be done by somebody else. Be careful who you trust with this. A few years ago we took 100# to a local store to save driving a few miles. Went to pick it up and they wanted $.75 a lb instead of everybody elses usual $.25. To make matters worse they must have used old 2x4's to smoke because you could taste the sap and it smelled like a lumber yard. Had to throw the whole thing and never got as much as a sorry from the store. Good luck and don't forget the electric frying pan to do "taste tests" before stuffing!

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  • Your Responses - Share & Have Fun :)

    • I would think so, it would be no different than parking on the shoulder of the road. my commit was more related to people that put up barriers, to keep others from crossing there approach.
    •   Sounds plausible to me.  Is the thickened footing in your mind the same as pouring the perimeter of the slab thicker?  We did an 8 inch perimeter around the 4 inch slab.
    • Yes. But on a post framed building the only think I ever see is a thickened footing and not a foundation to the frost line. A major benefit of post framing is that you install the posts below the frost line so the need for a concrete foundation below the frost line is not needed. If I am understanding the question correctly. 
    • FYI driveway approaches are on the public right of way, you may not block them, or place anything that can injure someone.   May a person park their own vehicle in their own driveway approach?
    • I think they’re more looking at the footings requirement, aren’t they?  Thus the reason for getting the poles below the frost line?   Its the township’s responsibility to figure this out and you have the right to ask them to cite the code they’re following.   I used to live in Isanti County and dealt with a building inspector from my township on the construction of my detached garage.  Things weren’t very strict to say the least.     We built everything by the current UBC code, so I’d suggest first getting a copy of the current version of that since this building will actually be your home.  Don’t take unnecessary shortcuts to save a few bucks up front.  You’ll eventually regret it.   Reading your plans for the slab, it sounds pretty good.  There are plenty of slab homes out there built the way you describe.  What you don’t want is movement.     I’m not an expert by any means but I think footings on your slab wouldn’t be a bad idea and sinking your poles that deep should be a requirement.  If you don’t do footings, at least pour your slab thicker on the perimeter to hold it better.    Your local Authority Having Jurisdiction (AHJ) can be more restrictive than code, but not less.  So if it’s defined in the UBC, you have to do at least that much.
    • I’ve personally been on both sides of this.   Used to love getting as much air as possible over driveways but I never understood gunning it on the other side after crossing.  I guess some are just mild adrenaline junkies.    I quit doing that for one, because it’s illegal, and two, not safe if the homeowner happens to be leaving or getting the mail at the time.   Now that I have a posted trail going over my driveway, I find it just rude, obnoxious and irritating to deal with 4 wheelers and sleds gunning it over the gravel and making ruts and eroding my base to the point of it being an expense to either plow and pack the class 5 back in place or spend the money to pave it.  I hate having to bounce over two ruts with my trailers and whatever I’m hauling in them too.   I think that’s the worst part for me.  Either jump it or be mellow on the throttle the entire way over.   I’ve seen trail groomers go around driveways before, making me wonder if that truly is a requirement or they were simply being courteous.  But I agree with knoppers, they should not drag over the driveway.  Maybe they think they’re taking the snow off for ya.  Call the people responsible for the trail and ask them for suggestions.  
    • If you want to get through ice fast and are going to re-tool for it completely, look at a Nils before making your final decision. 
    • I am fully aware of this as are most people.
    • some people are bad apples that give the sport a bad name, I as a snowmobiler have respect for driveways. FYI driveway approaches are on the public right of way, you may not block them, or place anything that can injure someone. trail groomers actually do you a favor by knocking down the bank, to keep it level. unless your groomer was not well trained, they will not groom over your driveway.
    • If code allows post frame for residential construction then by design you don't need a block foundation. 
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