Guests - If You want access to member only forums on HSO. You will gain access only when you sign-in or Sign-Up on HotSpotOutdoors.

It's easy - LOOK UPPER right menu.

Sign in to follow this  
Followers 0
Guest

Setting-up and rigging your "dream boat".

17 posts in this topic

How would you want it done, if you were to be able to custom build and rig your own ALL aluminum 18' or 20' fishing boat?

Where would you want the gas tank? Forward or center?
Side, center, or tiller steering?
Windshield? Low or tall?
Tube type, under floor mounted rod holders or side rod storage?
Livewell size, number of & placement?
Bait well... or not... and where?
Storage compartments, size and where?
Built in heater, cooler?
Cover, canvas top or side curtains?
Splash guards?
Trolling motor mount in front... and what about the "kicker" in the rear? Remote steetring tied to console or regular tiller?
Transom height?
Seating placement? Permanent seats or movable? Pedistal?
Welded or rivited hull?
Solid color or graphics / sticker?
"Maxed out" on horse power... or not?

Reason being.... is I may order a custom boat built by Lake Assult Boats and may have the option to make it "any way I want".
I have been in thrilled with Alumacrafts for the past 20 years and but have never had "options" like these to consider.
I would appreciate your combined wisdom and your sharing of ideas and applications.
Catch'n
Dave Hoggard

------------------
Fishermen are catch-n on
Catch'n Tackle
For Bass, Walleye, Pike, Lakers, Trout, Panfish
Used by FishingMN Family

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Thanks guys!
Keep it up, I am getting some good ideas here.
I like the built in cooler... and I seldom need a livewell. I would not mind a down-sized livewell... specially for xtra bait. It is nice to have an aireator going in the garage, keeping suckers alive right in the boat!
No carpet. No plastic. No wood anywhere...
I kinda think of it as making the last boat I'ld ever buy... having it "my way". Frankly that is what this would be!

I invishion a "hand heater" built in to the console that would hold a can of sterno type fuel that would be hooked up to a little 12V blower... so you could thaw out the fingers on the cold river trips in Dec, Jan, Feb & March.
What would that take... another couple of sq. feet of aluminum... smile.gif Could come in reel handy.

Any other ideas?
Catch'n
Dave Hoggard

------------------
Fishermen are catch-n on
Catch'n Tackle
For Bass, Walleye, Pike, Lakers, Trout, Panfish
Used by FishingMN Family

[This message has been edited by Catch'n (edited 10-30-2003).]

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

fantasty boat ...
-8' rod holder built into the floor with tubes
-livewell with built in baitwell in front
-dual trolling motor battery set up, wired to front and rear motors in the front floor with on board charger
-not too sure about the "built in cooler" as mine always seems to get funky, maybe a compartment that accepts a cooler
-build a custom boat, dont forget the kicker
-movable seats with pedistal front and rear
-low profile and narrow dual consoles with a bigger than average locking storage for passenger side and driver side electronics
-xtra 12v accesory plugs
-no paint or stickers or graphics, just clean
-i dont see why you couldnt get a 12v blower with a heater element built in
-removable vynil floor for cleaning
-a little bit of carpet on casting platforms and side storage by seats to keep things a little quieter and kozier
-set consoles forward enough so you can do sweet planer/dipsey/ downrigger spread off back
-all the horseys she needs without over doing it, no need to do 60+ mph, 4 stroke, on both motors
-that felt good

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I would think that a stereo, even just an am/fm, would be required. But you'd have to insulate it well, or the vibrations from the bass could spook the fish...or attract them. Who knows? Also, if you do have a livewell, and you put anything in there, an extendable "water-sucker-upper" tube is a must, so you can drop it 10 - 15 ft into colder water. Warm water will kill fish in a livewell. Am currently planning one to retrofit father's boat this winter. Also, storage for an extra battery.

fp

------------------
"Cast riiiiight....there."

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Derek
I can see you like life in the FAST lane!
wink.gifwink.gif

------------------
Try Too Fish
Forced Too Work!!:)

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Here's a thought to toss around. We've had alot of customers lately who opt for our spray-on rubberized texture coating instead of carpet. No sand accumulation, no floor rot. Just hose it down at the car wash and your good to go.

------------------
Steve @ Bakken's Boat Shop www.bakkensboatshop.com

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Catch'n, that's a tough one. Something I have not really though about. I would take the Lund Pro-V layout, take the front livewell out and add an insulated cooler. Save me from hauling the coleman along in the summer months. I would also add a removable bracket with wing nuts on the dual console option, so you could take it out when your solo or want the extr room. Maybe add a command center on on the rear of the boat like the tiller models have, but on a SE type model and be able to move your electronics for back trolling duties. Maybe design a better bimini top that folds into the boat sides without getting in the way.


Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I would have to agree with the cooler business. My usage is only having one livewell, two baitwells, and one cooler.

I think the best layout is the Pro-V, but that cooler is nice! I would also flush mount the baitwells with the floor.

I personally like the single console, but when I riding shotgun on cold days, I love my buddy's ranger with the full windshield.

Rod storage is a must and with today's trend, they got to hold 8 footers. Again, I like the Pro-V with it under the front deck.

Gary

------------------
Let 'em go so they can grow!!!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Dreamboat, eh?
<How would you want it done, if you were to be able to custom build and rig your own ALL aluminum 18' or 20' fishing boat?>

A RiverPro or other aluminum 'Apocalypse Now' jet monster - and the hull shape would matter more than anything. Shallow planing draft with a steeper nose draft - if possible. Inboard Jet to get rid of the liability, but a tunnel-hull & OB prop/OB jet wouldn't be out of the question, either.
<Where would you want the gas tank? Forward or center?>
Forward if it was OB - Ctr if IB Jet

<Side, center, or tiller steering?>
CC if IB Jet, Forward Console if OB propw/tunnel, Tiller if OB jet

<Windshield? Low or tall?>
Low. I can always crouch down if I need to, but I can't get taller.

<Tube type, under floor mounted rod holders or side rod storage?>
Side & vertical. I'd like underfloor for flotation, fuel or cooler/well.

<Livewell size, number of & placement?
Bait well... or not... and where?>
Livewell big enough for a Fat Cat or trophy northern with a safe, live release after weigh-in or documentation. I would give up fuel capacity for a big live well.
Livewell has to be as inboard as possible. If Big Fat Mr. Fishy slips my grip - I'd rather he have nowhere to go but floor.
Baitwells - I'd like two live; one fore and one aft, and one small built-in cooler for cut-bait. I hate it when my lunch shares coler space with cut-bait.
<Storage compartments, size and where?>
Just for life-jackets & paperwork, really. I don't mind a tackle bag on deck, as long as it's consolidated.
<Built in heater, cooler?>
Heater? Dunno. Never seen that option. Be nice, though.
Cooler? AC isn't essential, but a cooler would be nice.
<Cover, canvas top or side curtains?>
I have a feeling The Family might want something like that. I have found a bimini to be just in the way - especially when it's up.
<Splash guards?>
Not in my experience.
<Trolling motor mount in front... and what about the "kicker" in the rear?>
Yes to both. So far in my limited experience I have seen the need for a strong transom-mounted trolling motor (fanning a pattern into & out of a hole) a gas-powered 'kicker' (slip-streaming) and a bow-mount electric(negotiating ugly backwaters and holding nose-position on windy stillwater). My 'dreamboat' would have a bow-mount electric, a transom-mount electric and a transom-mount 4-stroke kicker.

<Remote steering tied to console or regular tiller?>
I'd love to see a system that allowed single-position control of bow & transom electrics with one control. A joystick for the foot - if you will.
<Transom height?>
Depends on tunnel depth
<Seating placement? Permanent seats or movable? Pedistal?>
A single bench for 2 or 3 (family concession) and a bunch of pedestal bases for flexible fishing-seat positioning.
<Welded or rivited hull?>
Dunno. This Consumer requires more data.
<Solid color or graphics / sticker?>
Color Shmuller. Put the $$ in the construction, please.
<"Maxed out" on horse power... or not?>
I currently run a 5.5 - I ain't hard to please.

There is no single hull that will address all situations - but if I can excel on rivers, and at least hold my own safely on lakes - I'll be happy & so will my family.

<Reason being.... is I may order a custom boat built by Lake Assult Boats and may have the option to make it "any way I want".
I have been in thrilled with Alumacrafts for the past 20 years and but have never had "options" like these to consider.
I would appreciate your combined wisdom and your sharing of ideas and applications.>

I checked out their site. I like the 'no frills' approach they have. I'm still too poor to buy a boat like that or an RP - but I think it's great that a local start-up is in the neighborhood! Are they really made in Elk River, MN?

Anyone who is in the $$ bracket or market for a new fishing boat - check out their site.

The RiverPro for skinny water, the Lake Assault for wavy water. All that's missing is Robert Duvall talking about his favorite smells in the morning. grin.gif

Peace ya'll,
Rob

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

The River Pro Hi-Pro is about as close to a dream boat as I see anywhere on the market. At least for my needs.

A "Tweak" I would like is a remote control spotlight with the control mounted on top of the the throttle lever, like a joy stick. We installed a wire-less remote spotlight on a Lund Pro V this year and it is SWEET for night running.

Then there is that "Cat Nap" sleeper bunk idea under the front casting deck. Right Dennis? (Fishhead's Dog/Cat House)

grin.gif

------------------
Ed Carlson

Backwater Guiding
"ED on the RED"
backwtr1@msn.com
701-281-2300
><,sUMo,>

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Lets see
I would have a large boat,say 18 feet long.So I can take my buddies out and they won't complain when I keep them out for hours and hours.
Lots of floor space.
Tons of storage,but very accessible.
It should have a THICK hull so that if I should bang a rock or stump while traveling shallow rivers that I don't do any damage.Plus it will last forever.
Deep hull to make you feel secure.
It needs to run very shallow,as shallow as 3" to get me over some very shallow bars.The fish are always where you can't get to.
It shoud have plenty of power.Extra power is important when you get into tight spots and need a little extra umph to get you out of them.
Center console so you can see everything from where your driving.
Rod storage that a 10 foot rod will fit into.Them cat rods are LONG.
A large front deck for pitching jigs and cranks.
Dry storage to keep my extra clothes dry.
It should also be very easy to clean out.Just spray out all the fish slime.
And it should be fun to drive.Maybee like a combination fishing boat and jet ski.

Well heck maybee I should just draw a picture. smile.gif

LinkPhoto?GUID=7e1d7dc3-1139-6433-4a95-6


LinkPhoto?GUID=1709209a-5496-fe1b-4b27-7

LinkPhoto?GUID=606476f0-7ecd-3225-713e-7

LinkPhoto?GUID=3ffe2b25-7bd3-1fd6-3a7e-3

That is what I would consider the perfect boat for me. smile.gif
And I think I even know where to get one.

http://riverpro-boats.com/

------------------
Minnesota River Guided Fishing
"fishhead"
fishheadds@yahoo.com
www.mnriverguidedfishing.com

[This message has been edited by Dennis Steele (edited 11-01-2003).]

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Dennis,
I rode in this boat you have pictured! It is simply the best river boat I have ever seen! Wow, what a thrill to be in... blasting thru the shallow water, and turning on a dime. You must love it!
I would love to have one just like it.
I know I would grow whiskers and a long skinny tail... and become a real "river rat" if I had one smile.gif
The River Pro would definately take me where no man has gone before!
And... in style, a nice boat.

I rode in the Lake Assult Boat also... it is also a dream boat, but made for "bigger" water. It is extremely wide and deep, with a nice smooth & dry ride. I am not sure what the hull design is called... but it is FAST.
It too turns on a dime. Man, what a boat. Considering the big water I frequent, I would need a "prop-job".
But... now that you mention the River Pro, I may want both worlds. I wonder if I could talk MOM into my getting two new boats! smile.gif
Catch'n
Dave Hoggard

------------------
Fishermen are catch-n on
Catch'n Tackle
For Bass, Walleye, Pike, Lakers, Trout, Panfish
Used by FishingMN Family

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

That Lake Assault boat was a sweet looking rig too.It looked like it was built like a tank.Thick gauge hull and ready to take on big waves.
I kind of like the idea that you can design the interior to fit your needs.Not many boat manufacturers let you do that.That would be big seeling point to me if I was in the market for a new big water rig.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Dennis, the Lake Assult is built like a tank!
As far as being tough and durable, that is.
Even though, I heard Jerry Atherton say it is 600 lbs lighter than a conventional boat of the same size/class.
I suppose that is because it has no plywood & carpet.
I kinda like that... I have a heck of a time cleaning out my floors now,seems like they are full of sand all the time (married with 3 children & a dog).
The diamond plate floor seemed to allow plenty of traction, but a rubber spray coat might be the ticket too.
Catch'n
Dave Hoggard

------------------
Fishermen are catch-n on
Catch'n Tackle
For Bass, Walleye, Pike, Lakers, Trout, Panfish
Used by FishingMN Family

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I wold speculate we will see more user friendly flooring options on fishing rigs in years to come. This season Lund went with the new vinyl/carpet snap in and out option, it was a big hit. Lots of new Lund's were ordered with this option.

A friend got a new Pro V with it and I would say from my own personal experience it is a smart system. He loves it and it sure cuts down on clean-up time. If your fishing takes you to a diverse set of conditions that will involve mud or lots of fish slime, this option is a winner.

For my needs a boat rigged with permanent carpet is just plain insane. I would double or triple my daily clean up work with carpet. Yet I can see the option to snap in or out carpet a real plus, even on the waters I fish.

I bet you see this option pop up in many new boats company brochures in 2004.

------------------
Ed Carlson

Backwater Guiding
"ED on the RED"
backwtr1@msn.com
701-281-2300
><,sUMo,>

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.
Sign in to follow this  
Followers 0



  • Posts

    • I get that, not the point, or i wouldnt have posted in the first place. How about he is stubborn and wont wear a life jacket and instead of freezing in his old deer hunting garb a pair of new outerwear designed for ice fishing would be great and as a bonus add safety?
    • You were definitely against it.  BD not.   And, as the old joke goes, it is a matter of price.   If they can get jobs for 700 bucks a year subsidy per job, might well be worth doing.  On the other hand 200k per job or whatever it really is seems too expensive.     But if you are one of the purists, then oppose everything.    I'm not that doctrinaire. 
    • I thought it was worth mentioning that I;ve found great mounting boards and mounting ideas from checking the catalogs of some taxidermy supply page and catalogs. 
    • I get being concerned about the ones you love, that's aways a good practice, but it seems like no matter how well I try to educate my wife on ice safety and my precautions regarding it, she still thinks I'm going to die.  If they have $400+ to burn, so be it, but I've compromised by saying I'll wear a life jacket out the first time or two.  Seems like a more economical solution to me. 
    • I agree with Hawg and Sea Hage. This is a convection heater and heat rises through the top vents. At 15k BTU the area where you put the fan will reach 300+ deg. f. and deform the fan blades as they are made of plastic. Put the fan at the bottom as suggested. Your main objective is to get hot air circulation through the house. The floor will usually be cooler due to the holes but with the fan blowing at the bottom cold air is returned at the bottom of the heater through circulation. My house is same size as yours. I have a 9k BTU Dura Flame convection heater and tried several fan configurations. I did burn up the fan blades when installed as in you pic running at about 7k BTU. I than converted it to a forced air with air flow fan control using temperature controlled relays. The burner I posted earlier is from that heater where I increased the BTU to 12k. The temp in my house is very consistent floor to ceiling and operates same as my home furnace. May be a bit of overkill for what your looking for but really works well with great comfort at any outside temp and wind.   The bump  on the air duct has 3 four inch compute fans to maintain. Behind the white framed box I put a 4 speed auto fan for fast warm-up I turn off when warm. Runs at 12.5k BTU. The pipe duct going to the door I added this fall to heat my attached flip. Cold air return is opening below the heat chamber and at the auto fan.   When I am not in the house and want to keep it warm, I turn off the temp control relays and open the door to the original convection and turn the heat down.  
    • I have a Crossfire II 4-16x50 on my .308 elk rifle and I love it. Great scope, very clear and bright and Vortex quality. I have not had a single issue with it and the Crossfire is on the budget end of their glass. I've great reports from those with the higher end scopes. I wouldn't hesitate for a second. As far as which one to choose, I find the 50mm scope a little big and heavy. You'll likely have issues mounting to an AR due to its size. Mine had the benefit of the barrel taper allowing for the larger lens to fit. If I had a flat top like an AR it wouldn't fit as well. 
    • This is a post on the low flame issue that was brought up awhile back along with a question. As most said the low flame is normal and says so in the manual. I just picked one up, a used one. Hooked it all up and had very minimal flame. I have several of these units in rental houses so I am able to compare. The unit I just picked up is an abnormally low flame. I took a little square head bolt out of the black pipe that goes directly into the burner and blew it out. This was a mistake as at this point I can not get the burner to light. Ok now I need to get to the burner. I took apart the unit and took the burner out and blew it out real good then reassembled the unit and wa-la great flame and great heat, better then my newer units.   Now for the ? part of my post. I am having a 10degree drop in the temp before the unit starts back up. My other shacks are not much better but a little. Anyone have any experience with this issue?
    • usually 2 weeks to get stuff at st jo.  did brats3 weeks ago. buncha meat sticks this last week  
  • Our Sponsors