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upnorth

They shoot boats don't they?

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I have some spark issues with my "87" 70 horse Evinrude. The last time I took the boat to the lake put the dang thing in the water, wouldn't fire no matter what I did, it didn't even try. Manual primed it and all, had plenty of gas, plugs were wet. Pulled it out of the water drove to the nearest hardware store got some new plugs figuring it was flooded and new plugs would do it. Put it back the water and tried it again, no go. Figured I ain't gonna be fishing today and hauled the boat back home. Pulled one of the plugs and put the wire on to check for spark and there was spark, checked the rest of the cylinders and they were sparking good too, all were throwing spark about 1/2 inch to the block. Put the plugs back in and put the muffs on and she fired right up. Thought just wasn't meant to be fishing that day. rolleyes.gif

Well tried it again today on the muffs and same thing no fire and no spark. Checeked all the connections that I thought would cause problems and even took most of them apart and cleaned them to be sure that there would be a good connection and that did no good.

Any one got any ideas? I am not too gifted with outboard motors and could use some hints.

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Upnorth, It sounds like your power pac is weak. It should be a unit that bolts to the side of your motor. Just follow the plug wires. Its kinda like a coil. They will show a spark but under compression it won't fire. It will sometimes run but than quit. Any dealer/repair shop should be able to test it for you. I think they run about about $100.

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Thanks for the replies.

1 it is a side steering model. 2 the lanyard for the kill switch is in place where is should be, triple checked that smile.gif

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Upnorth, quadruple check your lanyard switch (red rope), pull tab out, then put it in again, and be sure is all the way inserted. Also if you can disconnect wires from it temporarily, you'll find out if that's the problem. They are known to create havoc.
Check ignition key switch also, just in case.

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Valv

What do you mean check the ignition switch? Is there are routine for checking resistance or voltage across the terminals? I did pull the handle apart to check for loose wires or corrosion.

There are no screwed terminals on the kill switch to disconnect. I don't really want to snip the wires because if that is not the issue there is no real room to reconnect them if . I have pulled the lanyard out and re-inserted it several times to no avail.

[This message has been edited by upnorth (edited 07-31-2003).]

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Pull the lanyard and flick the switch back and forth a few times. It could be dirty.
Your ignition switch could be dirty too. Without seeing the switch I cant tell ya what to do. If it has a big plug that connects to the back of the switch pull it off and jump from the battery + to the + on the starter.

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I checked the lanyard and switch for the kill switch and that seems ok, then disconnected the big red plug that is supposed to bypass all the key switch and kill switch and jumped the starter solenoid to spin the motor. With the plugs out and in the plug wires and touching the block, no spark.

Is this pointing to the power pack?

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I am afraid it is, or something else in the ignition part of the motor.
But last hope is to check any connector or wire to see if they are unplugged or fried or shorting. Especially around and underneath flywheel.

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One of the first things I did was to go through and check all of the wires and connectors. Where I could get to them I took them apart and cleaned them with sandpaper just to be sure that I had good connections.

I am getting a new power pack today. I hope that is the problem.

I hate electrical problems rolleyes.gif

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I just replaced the power pack. No spark when I turn it over whether it is by the key switch or by disconnecting the big red plug and jumping to the starter solenoid.

What else could it be? I am getting a little frustrated here. Any help would be appreciated.

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Just posting this so anyone else having the same problem can troubleshoot this a little easier.

It turned out to be the timer base under the flywheel. Got the manual and dug out the multi-tester and did what the manual said and lo and behold found the problem.

You almost have to pull the part out to get the right part from the dealers, everyone that I called tried to sell me the stator assembly, not the timer base. Good thing I waited to order the part until I removed it and got the part numbers off of it. Still took almost a week to the part in hand frown.gif

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