Guests - If You want access to member only forums on HSO. You will gain access only when you Sign-in or Sign-Up on HotSpotOutdoors.

It's easy - LOOK UPPER right menu.

  • Announcements

    • Rick

      Members Only Fluid Forum View   08/08/2017

      Fluid forum view allows members only to get right to the meat of this community; the topics. You can toggle between your preferred forum view just below to the left on the main forum entrance. You will see three icons. Try them out and see what you prefer.   Fluid view allows you, if you are a signed up member, to see the newest topic posts in either all forums (select none or all) or in just your favorite forums (select the ones you want to see when you come to Fishing Minnesota). It keeps and in real time with respect to Topic posts and lets YOU SELECT YOUR FAVORITE FORUMS. It can make things fun and easy. This is especially true for less experienced visitors raised on social media. If you, as a members want more specific topics, you can even select a single forum to view. Let us take a look at fluid view in action. We will then break it down and explain how it works in more detail.   The video shows the topic list and the forum filter box. As you can see, it is easy to change the topic list by changing the selected forums. This view replaces the traditional list of categories and forums.   Of course, members only can change the view to better suit your way of browsing.   You will notice a “grid” option. We have moved the grid forum theme setting into the main forum settings. This makes it an option for members only to choose. This screenshot also shows the removal of the forum breadcrumb in fluid view mode. Fluid view remembers your last forum selection so you don’t lose your place when you go back to the listing. The benefit of this feature is easy to see. It removes a potential barrier of entry for members only. It puts the spotlight on topics themselves, and not the hierarchical forum structure. You as a member will enjoy viewing many forums at once and switching between them without leaving the page. We hope that fluid view, the new functionality is an asset that you enjoy .
  • RECEIVE THE GIFTS MEMBERS SHARE WITH YOU HERE...THEN...CREATE SOMETHING TO ENCHANT OTHERS THAT YOU WANT TO SHARE

    You know what we all love...

    When you enchant people, you fill them with delight and yourself in return. Have Fun!!!

Sign in to follow this  
Maximum12

Different Canoe Materials

Recommended Posts

I'm looking to buy a canoe in the next month & am just starting to gather information on aluminum vs. plastic vs. kevlar. Anyone have any good resource sites or a particular store that I could get info from & carry all three types?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I know that the Bell canoe works HSOforum talks a little about their Royalex(plastic), Kevlar, and Carbon fiber/composites. I have also been to the Alumacraft HSOforum to look at their canoes. But I don't know of a source that actually compares things like abrasion resistance/puncture resistance etc.

You could attend the Midwest Mountaineering Show in MPLS. in a couple of weeks. There will be quite a few dealers(not sure if any aluminum dealers), and there will be a canoe auction and there is usually a wide variety for sale including a few aluminum.

[This message has been edited by Nels (edited 04-09-2003).]

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Guest

I have a 16' Old Town Discovery that is made of something called Crosslink 3 and I've pounded it into sharp rocks at pretty good speed, even gone over small waterfalls and landed on boulders and jagged rocks, and it hardly has a scratch in it. Impressive stuff.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

It really depends on what you're using it for. Where do you plan to use it? Is portaging an issue? Boundary waters, or quiet rivers and lakes around home? How much can you spend? How many people will be with you, and how much gear will you put in it?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Yeah, I'll most likely be going to the Midwest Mountaineering auction, although I didn't know there would be dealers there. That's good to know.

I'll use it mostly in the BWCA & Twin Cities lakes, so it'll be mostly low-impact lake use with a little river-running in the BWCA. I only go twice a year. Portaging I'm not concerned with, it doesn't seem like anything I'm looking at is over 65 - 70 pounds or so.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Then the money you'd have to pay for kevlar really isn't worth it for you probably. I sure liked the Old Town Penobscot 17. They're around 60 pounds, and really paddled fast I thought. bit tippy though.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Maximum -

I agree it does depend on how & where you wish to use the canoe. And what for.

I use mine to fish rivers in SE MN that are full of limestone and I own a River Ridge Custom Canoe for several reasons. They are very manuverable which is important in smaller rivers. They're set up to use with either a trolling motor or small gas motor which makes them much easier to fish from.
They're made of fiberglass and easy to repair
which is important because a canoe of any material will get ripped up in limestone streams.

If portaging isn't an issue, weight may not be that important so something in the 65-80 lb range would be fine providing you don't mind loading it alone on top of a car if you're alone and using a car to transport it. I use a pickup so don't need to lift it that far.

Generally lighter means more money.

If you're older I would pay attention to seat
comfort and what options are available to improve that. My canoe has standard upholstered boat seats and drinkholders and some other ammeneties that make it user friendly.

If primary use were for paddling I would recommend a double end over a square stern.

I would also make stability a priority. There is a huge difference in stability from one design to another. I've had 6 canoes and 2 were very unstable. The last 2 and my first one (aluminum double end) were very stable. One was a Coleman 17' double end - stability was okay, but not great manueverablity.

Hope that helps.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Thanks for the info.

I'm leaning towards the Old Town Penobscot 17 for a couple of reasons - I'm familiar with it (my friend has one)& my wife can get a killer deal on one - but I've never liked the relative lack of stability. And I'd agree that seat comfort is a huge deal when you're on your derrier for hours at a time!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Your right about the primary and secondary stability. The Penobscot has poor primary stabilty, so it feels like you could go over at any time. However, it's secondary stability is pretty good. Once you're in the thing for a while, you begin to trust it more, and don't notice the little twitches. Like I said before, I thought it really cut through the water nice, and you have enough room for boundary waters camping, it's relatively light for portages, and pretty durable too.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Keep in mind there are 2 kinds of stabilty in canoes. Primary & secondary. Flat bottoms have great primary but bad secondary. I have an old town discovery 174 (which is for sale BTW) and although it feels a little tippy, it take a lot to roll it. On the other hand the flat bottoms feel good, but make one wrong move and your upside down in a blink of an eye. Check out the wenonah.com for some great reading on the diffent hull shapes and why the shapes do what they do.

Have fun!! Jeff

Take a little advice too. Buy the LIGHTEST canoe you can afford, otherwise you'll be seling a heavy one and looking for a lighter one like I'm doing right now!!

[This message has been edited by MNice (edited 04-10-2003).]

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.
Sign in to follow this  



  • Your Responses - Share & Have Fun :)

    • Looks like the Hawks might be without Crawford the rest of the season.   http://nhl.nbcsports.com/2018/01/16/report-blackhawks-concerned-crawford-could-miss-remainder-of-season/
    • We use a line voltage thermostat, with it set in the "cool" position.  Once it hits the set temp the thermostat kicks the fan on, until it gets below the set point.  Works pretty well.  
    • Strange I received our notification for WI yesterday but the page does not show any update. Either way WI permits are out. Already planning and getting blinds ready for this spring    
    • I have not used one, but they have attracted my attention. I have a wheelhouse but think this would be a better early ice option. Surprised at how pricey they are, but aluminum must be spendy! I think your ability to pull with the snowmobile will vary with snow depth, slushy conditions etc..... Studs will probably be helpful?  If you go that route, report back how it works!
    • I finally used it I was just testing it out getting the feel of things so didn't follow a recipe just cut up some Yukon gold potatoes zucchini onion and threw in a bunch of chicken breast. 1 can of cream of chicken and 2 cups of beer. Actual cook time after pressurized 12 mins. Some of the most tender chicken I have ever had.   Next day I made some jasmine rice and cubed some chicken breast and coated with sesame chicken sauce. Didn't think the sauce would steam good on its own so I put half cup of water as well. Then drained liquid when itt was done cooking and tossed them in more sauce before eating.   All in all I like it so far pretty easy stuff.
    • Well the switch closes at 115 degrees F so you will have to place it somewhere that It reaches that temp when you want it to turn on. I would say inside on the sheet metal top vent would do the trick if you wanted it hidden If not I guess just stick it on the outside of the vent hole. Or I am guessing it will close if you just stick it on the side of the heater just have the flat part of the switch flush with it I know my heater gets pretty hot pretty much anywhere on the metal basically I would take a bbq thermometer and find a place that hits 115 when you would want the fan to kick on.    As for the wire go to the hardware store and get some high temp like this its rated to 392 F https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01KCPL3GC/ref=sspa_dk_detail_2?psc=1&pd_rd_i=B01KCPL3GC&pd_rd_wg=NEE9O&pd_rd_r=NHQPZ29KWH6QT57M7M41&pd_rd_w=aiXqh   If you need something higher rated https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01KCPL3GC/ref=sspa_dk_detail_2?psc=1&pd_rd_i=B01KCPL3GC&pd_rd_wg=NEE9O&pd_rd_r=NHQPZ29KWH6QT57M7M41&pd_rd_w=aiXqh That's rated for 482 F    
    •     I guess when I made that statement I was wrongly assuming it would be much colder than that. In that case, it should be a nice October game just like a couple years ago at TCF. 
    • I went back the next day hoping the slush froze.  No such luck i guess water wont freeze at 31 below zero.  Sunday i tried moving my fishouse.  I kept breaking threw the slush. We hooked 3 widetracks together to my fishouse and still had to jerk the heck out of it to get it out. I did get a few crappies Saturday afternoon.  We picked up 26 crappies. 
  • MWO