Guests - If You want access to member only forums on HSO. You will gain access only when you Sign-in or Sign-Up on HotSpotOutdoors.

It's easy - LOOK UPPER right menu.

  • Announcements

    • Rick

      Members Only Fluid Forum View   08/08/2017

      Fluid forum view allows members only to get right to the meat of this community; the topics. You can toggle between your preferred forum view just below to the left on the main forum entrance. You will see three icons. Try them out and see what you prefer.   Fluid view allows you, if you are a signed up member, to see the newest topic posts in either all forums (select none or all) or in just your favorite forums (select the ones you want to see when you come to Fishing Minnesota). It keeps and in real time with respect to Topic posts and lets YOU SELECT YOUR FAVORITE FORUMS. It can make things fun and easy. This is especially true for less experienced visitors raised on social media. If you, as a members want more specific topics, you can even select a single forum to view. Let us take a look at fluid view in action. We will then break it down and explain how it works in more detail.   The video shows the topic list and the forum filter box. As you can see, it is easy to change the topic list by changing the selected forums. This view replaces the traditional list of categories and forums.   Of course, members only can change the view to better suit your way of browsing.   You will notice a “grid” option. We have moved the grid forum theme setting into the main forum settings. This makes it an option for members only to choose. This screenshot also shows the removal of the forum breadcrumb in fluid view mode. Fluid view remembers your last forum selection so you don’t lose your place when you go back to the listing. The benefit of this feature is easy to see. It removes a potential barrier of entry for members only. It puts the spotlight on topics themselves, and not the hierarchical forum structure. You as a member will enjoy viewing many forums at once and switching between them without leaving the page. We hope that fluid view, the new functionality is an asset that you enjoy .
  • RECEIVE THE GIFTS MEMBERS SHARE WITH YOU HERE...THEN...CREATE SOMETHING TO ENCHANT OTHERS THAT YOU WANT TO SHARE

    You know what we all love...

    When you enchant people, you fill them with delight and yourself in return. Have Fun!!!

Hawg

Is there a home test for a regulator?

Recommended Posts

Over the last 30 years of ice fishing I've changed out many regulators on my fish house furnace for what I always assumed was from freezing up. I would bring them home, dry them out, and keep them for spares. Problem is I never quite trusted them 100%. I have about 10-12 of them now I think are probably good but not sure. Research says that regulators go bad because of a diaphragm and you check them with a manometer, but I don't have one of those. Are there any tests a person can do at home to check them? I change out the pilot orifice every year because I've been told Minnesota has no regulation on cleanliness for propane, plus orifices are cheap and its reassuring when miles from home for a few days in the fish house. Like many on here I'm retired now on a fixed income, and it aint fixed very high! What do you guys think about trusting them and testing them?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I looked it up.   A home regulator is supposed to regulate to 11 inches of water.   So you could easily make a home made manometer to measure the output using compressed air on the input.   run the output to a container of water with a tube extending below the surface that is sealed except for the tube.   then you measure how high up the tube the output of the regulator will push the water.  

 

I know that's not a very good explanation, but you could look up how to make a manometer.   11 inches is not very much pressure so sealing stuff up should be not too hard.   A little silicone would do it.  

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Thanks D. Anybody know IF a manometer reads at 11 like it should is there anything that can make a regulator work for a while and then go bad? My reasoning is telling me that if I can light the furnace with one of my suspect regulators and both the pilot and flame look right then I could assume the diaphragm is good. I borrowed a clean & dry one to a friend a week or so ago and it worked about 3 hours and quit which is giving me less confidence than I should have in it as a spare. I have to believe it has to be moisture in his tank or something besides the regulator. If the regulator goes to 11, is that the extent of the regulators job and the problem SHOULD be elsewhere? I'm going to build one of these or borrow one from someone but does the rest of my reasoning sound right? If it reads high or low it doesn't work but if it reads 11 it does?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

This is interesting stuff. I have to say that after 20 some years of owning multiple RVs and fish houses I don't ever remember having a propane regulator problem.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

IMO you would have two things that can affect regulator output.

Cleanliness of the regulator (orifice)

and temperature (causing the diaphragm {age} to be stiff and not allowing flow along with the propane not vaporizing to a gas as easily{tank size can also come into play here})  

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I’m haven’t random unexplained issues with our 2016 fish house.  I can’t find any kinks or restrictions and it only happens when we’re fishing.

 

We get low pressure and the furnace cuts out.  We can light a burner on the stove and watch the pressure drop until it won’t stay lit either.  Changed tanks, messed with the valve, etc.  The last time I kept it running by having both 30’s opened (house came with 20’s).  I’m hoping it’s a bad prime on the tanks from the last fill. There’s plenty left in em.

 

First Time problem for me too.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
2 hours ago, Hawg said:

Thanks D. Anybody know IF a manometer reads at 11 like it should is there anything that can make a regulator work for a while and then go bad? My reasoning is telling me that if I can light the furnace with one of my suspect regulators and both the pilot and flame look right then I could assume the diaphragm is good. I borrowed a clean & dry one to a friend a week or so ago and it worked about 3 hours and quit which is giving me less confidence than I should have in it as a spare. I have to believe it has to be moisture in his tank or something besides the regulator. If the regulator goes to 11, is that the extent of the regulators job and the problem SHOULD be elsewhere? I'm going to build one of these or borrow one from someone but does the rest of my reasoning sound right? If it reads high or low it doesn't work but if it reads 11 it does?

Most you should be able to adjust the regulator flow. I would test it in the same condition your operating them in.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
4 hours ago, Wanderer said:

I’m haven’t random unexplained issues with our 2016 fish house.  I can’t find any kinks or restrictions and it only happens when we’re fishing.

 

We get low pressure and the furnace cuts out.  We can light a burner on the stove and watch the pressure drop until it won’t stay lit either.  Changed tanks, messed with the valve, etc.  The last time I kept it running by having both 30’s opened (house came with 20’s).  I’m hoping it’s a bad prime on the tanks from the last fill. There’s plenty left in em.

 

First Time problem for me too.

As I understand it, a tank of a given size will/can only supply propane at some rate that depends on the temperature, and the amount of propane in the tank.  

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

They should all produce enough pressure when they’re over 20% full at the temps I’ve been fishing in.  But yeah, pressure and temperature are ALWAYS related.

 

I wouldn’t be shocked if any of the previous conditions mentioned weren’t a problem but I’m starting with the tank and a fresh refill tomorrow.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
6 hours ago, Wanderer said:

I’m haven’t random unexplained issues with our 2016 fish house.  I can’t find any kinks or restrictions and it only happens when we’re fishing.

 

We get low pressure and the furnace cuts out.  We can light a burner on the stove and watch the pressure drop until it won’t stay lit either.  Changed tanks, messed with the valve, etc.  The last time I kept it running by having both 30’s opened (house came with 20’s).  I’m hoping it’s a bad prime on the tanks from the last fill. There’s plenty left in em.

 

First Time problem for me too.

 

I had a problem like that with a grill. Replaced regulator and connection hose for $8.99. Problem fixed. It's the only problem I've ever had with a regulator. 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I see some people use those magnetic heaters like you put on an engine block to keep the propane tanks warm. I’ve always wondered if that heater on the tank and the cold air wouldn’t cause condensation inside that tank what do you think. Is there any moisture inside of a propane tank that could cause the condensation

Edited by Hawg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

  Tanks are too small and when it gets cold they don't produce enough pressure. 

The guys using 100 lb propane tanks see a lot less problems. 

 

 

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
1 hour ago, Hawg said:

I see some people use those magnetic heaters like you put on an engine block to keep the propane tanks warm. I’ve always wondered if that heater on the tank and the cold air wouldn’t cause condensation inside that tank what do you think. Is there any moisture inside of a propane tank that could cause the condensation

 

There are heaters available and that would bring up the pressure with the temp.  There shouldn’t be any moisture inside if the tank has been handled properly.  LP boils at something like -40 degrees F in order to produce the gas for burning.

 

When a tank is filled it should be purged first.  That’s when your O2 and moisture would be eliminated if it somehow got in the tank.  As long as you have SOME pressure, O2 and H2O shouldn’t be able to get in unless pumped in by mistake.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Sounds like an orifice issue or frozen water (condensate) in the line, since there is enough pressure to get started, but not enough volume to maintain operation.  After checking the orifices, one on the leading side of the regulator and one in the heater.  Then with the house heated up, i.e. in heated garage or this spring, disconnect the line on both ends and blow out with compressed air.  

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
22 hours ago, Wanderer said:

I’m haven’t random unexplained issues with our 2016 fish house.  I can’t find any kinks or restrictions and it only happens when we’re fishing.

 

We get low pressure and the furnace cuts out.  We can light a burner on the stove and watch the pressure drop until it won’t stay lit either.  Changed tanks, messed with the valve, etc.  The last time I kept it running by having both 30’s opened (house came with 20’s).  I’m hoping it’s a bad prime on the tanks from the last fill. There’s plenty left in em.

 

First Time problem for me too.

What brand of fish house?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now




  • Your Responses - Share & Have Fun :)

    • Like Leech said, it appears that a grant in aid trail is running through your area. I would urge you to contact the club president or another representative and try to work out a solution. They may be able to even re-route the trail to avoid your driveway but you will not know unless you engage in a civil discussion with a representative of the club. Just let them know you have concerns and see if an agreement can be had.    I would be surprised if the club doesn't have a landowners event every fall that you could attend and talk to club members as well to keep reminding them each year of your concerns.
    • Forgot this was a day game, missed it but happy we got the two points. We have been holding our spots and even have some games in hand on some other teams. If we can just keep this pace up we are in, but here is hoping we get hot towards the end of the year. Would be nice for a change. 
    • Nice win this afternoon on the road...things are getting interesting....need others to keep stumbling and we may not have to worry about a Wild Card.
    • That's the problem in restrictor plate races--stay on the gas and hit the car in front or lift and be hit from behind.
    • No doubt!   We didn’t have to wonder if there was actual contact though after Dillon said he had a run and just stayed in the gas.   Is what it is.  And that’s the difference I noticed.
    • So no sill plate for the walls on the perimeter then.  OK.     Again, not an expert so whatever your guys say and you’re comfortable with... I don’t know all your construction details. I - sandy County Is just that; sandy.  So it’s not too tough to get a good base.   My experience, as it relates to this, has just been based on building a 36x48 wood framed garage in Isanti County.  8 inch block on the perimeter to support 12 foot sidewalls of 2x6 construction.  My buddy that sold me the lumber said the project was only 200 feet short on interior walls from being a house.  After adding in the attic square footage it had more than my house.  Going with a pole building frame is the game changer.   Again, best of luck. It would be interesting to me to see the completed project.
    •   Didn't say you would.    
    • Lol Leech-I don’t remember saying I was going to block the driveway with logs or wire. They will begin hitting the 4x4’s beneath there that have been there to keep cars from driving on the grass. Not my deal. I was only looking for some guidance on if I’m overreacting or if there should be som me]angers employee. So, ya, like everything else, it’s a lack of manners and I’m not crazy...yet. 
    • Just had a call with the builder and the concrete guy I am working with. Neither said they would "waste" concrete on thickening the edge unless there were plans to add on to the structure at a later date. The builder said no amount of concrete on the edge will help the building stability. He says if it moves its his fault in building it. There will be no weight on the outside edge of the building, worst thing that could happen would be erosion outside the building.
    • Had looked into the panels and they pretty much doubled the initial cost of the structure. I could spry foam the entire wall cavity for less $ and have close to the same thing.
  • MWO