Guests - If You want access to member only forums on HSO. You will gain access only when you Sign-in or Sign-Up on HotSpotOutdoors.

It's easy - LOOK UPPER right menu.

  • Announcements

    • Rick

      Members Only Fluid Forum View   08/08/2017

      Fluid forum view allows members only to get right to the meat of this community; the topics. You can toggle between your preferred forum view just below to the left on the main forum entrance. You will see three icons. Try them out and see what you prefer.   Fluid view allows you, if you are a signed up member, to see the newest topic posts in either all forums (select none or all) or in just your favorite forums (select the ones you want to see when you come to Fishing Minnesota). It keeps and in real time with respect to Topic posts and lets YOU SELECT YOUR FAVORITE FORUMS. It can make things fun and easy. This is especially true for less experienced visitors raised on social media. If you, as a members want more specific topics, you can even select a single forum to view. Let us take a look at fluid view in action. We will then break it down and explain how it works in more detail.   The video shows the topic list and the forum filter box. As you can see, it is easy to change the topic list by changing the selected forums. This view replaces the traditional list of categories and forums.   Of course, members only can change the view to better suit your way of browsing.   You will notice a “grid” option. We have moved the grid forum theme setting into the main forum settings. This makes it an option for members only to choose. This screenshot also shows the removal of the forum breadcrumb in fluid view mode. Fluid view remembers your last forum selection so you don’t lose your place when you go back to the listing. The benefit of this feature is easy to see. It removes a potential barrier of entry for members only. It puts the spotlight on topics themselves, and not the hierarchical forum structure. You as a member will enjoy viewing many forums at once and switching between them without leaving the page. We hope that fluid view, the new functionality is an asset that you enjoy .
Hawg

Tire Pressure On a Wheel House

Recommended Posts

This seems like a simple question but still confuses me. My radial tires say 2540 lbs max load at 65 lbs pressure. My house weighs 4450 lbs. Should I run them at max pressure of 65 lbs? There's no door sticker to tell you like on a truck or car.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Hoo boy...that's not real good, Hawg.....but ya, max pressure on those, if you're going to run them....but, you're over the safe limit or close (figuring in gear) ...Not trying to be a smartie, either. 

 

 

The tire’s load rating, or “max load,” indicates the individual tire’s safe maximum load-carrying capacity when inflated to its recommended pressure. Never exceed a tire’s maximum load rating (the limit that is molded into the tire sidewall) or the maximum vehicle load limit shown on the vehicle tire placard, whichever is less. The tire is designed and constructed to handle a specific maximum load, and overloading will result in a buildup of excessive heat in the tire, which could lead to tire failure.

The load index number, which appears on the tire sidewall, is an assigned number that corresponds to the tire’s load-carrying capacity. Alphanumeric tires will display an alpha code that indicatesmaximum load. The letter can range from “A” to “N” (the higher the letter, the greater the load-carrying capacity at a given inflation pressure).

The max load and maximum inflation numbers found on the tire sidewall indicate the maximum load that can safely be carried and the maximum allowable tire pressure. The construction of the tire (belts, bead, carcass, liner) dictates the tire’s ability to withstand pressure. The stronger the reinforcements, the greater pressure the tire can h

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I'd stop at least a few times to let heat dissipate. Max psi of that 65 lbs, because it's the tire sidewall flex that will get ya into trouble and build up the heat.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
17 minutes ago, RebelSS said:

I'd stop at least a few times to let heat dissipate. Max psi of that 65 lbs, because it's the tire sidewall flex that will get ya into trouble and build up the heat.

oh boy.............leave it alone smurf.............:P

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Figgered ya did. Just hate to see anyone lose their house due to a blowout. Watched it happen before. I'm just really "over-cautious" on stuff....

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I think most of the time trailer tires are recommended to be operated at max air pressure. It should also help the tire wear more evenly and help prevent a blow-out.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Rebs, it’s actually 2640 but I know you know your stuff on this. I should run at 65#s right. I’m actually 20 some % under max

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Yup, Hawg, 65# on a cold tire. (measure them now, before it's like 10* out.....best temp is around 50-70* for a "true" temp, as air pressure will actually drop a tad when it's below the freezing point. Some high-end car guys in my club (worse than me) actually do the nitrogen tire fill, which IMO, hasn't been significantly proven yet. I just make sure my air tank/compressor  is drained after EVERY use, and my filter is working to keep out moisture. I also do a tiny squirt of WD-40 on my Schrader valve once a year in winter. ((keylock holes in doors too)  Do NOT fill tires at an outside air hose place in winter!!!!!!!!!!! (Or anytime, really)  OK, enough of tires 101 for today. I need a Pepsi.  :grin:

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I'm a Pepsi guy! And I'll flip ya for the buy! No slow learner that I see...not you, anyway. :P Just glad I can help! (I hope I did....I think we all gave it a whirl)

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now




  • Posts

    • I've always been partial to the fold down couch in the back but I'd want to have storage under it and a fold down bunk above it. One thing to keep in mind is the heater.  I know you said the current heater stays for this season and maybe next but if you're doing work on the layout now you should probably plan for the new heater now even if its not going in for a year or two.  You'd hate to do all this work adjusting the layout only to find out you should have done something differently to accommodate the new heater. 
    • If mine,  I would add those drop down bunks and some pedestal boat seats.  With a smaller house like that I would want as much open area as possible.  I think those big couch/sofas take too much room.  You can always drop the bunk and take a snooze without taking up floor fishing space.  Just some thoughts.......
    • I tried a glass of a buddy's Templeton Rye last night and was impressed. I'm not big of Rye's but this one was very smooth. I can't say I'd ever buy a bottle but someone else's booze is always up near the top of the list of my favorites. I still prefer the $15 Trader Joe's bourbon though. 
    • I didn't figure anyone at cabelas would be any help. I have scoured the gun and haven't ever been able to find any markings of any kind. I forgot to mention in the previous post that it's a 16 gauge.  If nothing else, it'll look cool hanging over my basement bar. 
    • Ha I remember showing ya a thing or 2!!! Not sure where your son got his fishin prowess from though! Yea well!! oh I changed my poopy pants!
    • I can't see the pics?
    • You might be better off trying to do some research on your own on the old shotgun. I think it would be a waste of time taking it to Cabela's since most of the folks  who work there now think  any gun made before 1970 is an antique. The gun surely is made in Europe and might have originated in one of the English or Belgian or even German "guild" shops, little outfits that cranked out inexpensive guns that did not even bear maker's names since they were made by a "bunch" of guys. Your best bet would be to trace or photograph the proof marks and go from there.  That is,  I'm assuming it has proof marks :).
    • For an exciting adventure in shooting grab an old "trapdoor" Springfield and rattle off a few rounds of 45-70 or 45-90.  If you're of skinny build and little weight it'll give you a THUMP you'll remember!   Perfect deer cartridge for MN though since that big ol' bullet will go churning through the brush like a D-8 Cat until it hit's it's target. Have been around the old '94 30-30 since way back when and while it is handy it is not that accurate and lacks the knock-down power of many, many of today's rounds. But if you just have to have one as I always say, it''s your money. Keep in mind you can buy the .35 Remington in a pump action,   which a lot of MN duck hunters find easy to use come deer season.
    • I have an old Damascus barreled shotgun that was passed on to me by my grandpa. The story I have always heard and been told is that it was brought over from Denmark by my great grandfather in 1915. It has no markings indicating where it was made or anything else that I could use to figure out some history on the gun. It is a pin fire and has a stag carved into the underside of the stock. Anyone have any ideas on where I could find any info on this? I had thought about bringing it to Cabelas and see if they knew anything about it. I'm not concerned about the value. I'd just like to know a little more about it or even get pointed in the right direction. 
    • I like the .30-.30 because of availability and affordability of the ammo but I think the .35 Remington may be a better overall round. I don't know anything about the .45-70 Gov. though.
  • Our Sponsors