Guests - If You want access to member only forums on HSO. You will gain access only when you Sign-in or Sign-Up on HotSpotOutdoors.

It's easy - LOOK UPPER right menu.

  • Announcements

    • Rick

      Members Only Fluid Forum View   08/08/2017

      Fluid forum view allows members only to get right to the meat of this community; the topics. You can toggle between your preferred forum view just below to the left on the main forum entrance. You will see three icons. Try them out and see what you prefer.   Fluid view allows you, if you are a signed up member, to see the newest topic posts in either all forums (select none or all) or in just your favorite forums (select the ones you want to see when you come to Fishing Minnesota). It keeps and in real time with respect to Topic posts and lets YOU SELECT YOUR FAVORITE FORUMS. It can make things fun and easy. This is especially true for less experienced visitors raised on social media. If you, as a members want more specific topics, you can even select a single forum to view. Let us take a look at fluid view in action. We will then break it down and explain how it works in more detail.   The video shows the topic list and the forum filter box. As you can see, it is easy to change the topic list by changing the selected forums. This view replaces the traditional list of categories and forums.   Of course, members only can change the view to better suit your way of browsing.   You will notice a “grid” option. We have moved the grid forum theme setting into the main forum settings. This makes it an option for members only to choose. This screenshot also shows the removal of the forum breadcrumb in fluid view mode. Fluid view remembers your last forum selection so you don’t lose your place when you go back to the listing. The benefit of this feature is easy to see. It removes a potential barrier of entry for members only. It puts the spotlight on topics themselves, and not the hierarchical forum structure. You as a member will enjoy viewing many forums at once and switching between them without leaving the page. We hope that fluid view, the new functionality is an asset that you enjoy .
Bum

Fish House Build

Recommended Posts

Been reading on here for a couple years now and following others build threads that motivated me to build my own, so posting this to hopefully motivate someone like me to get started on their own! Started it this summer and put it aside for too long but but back at it.

It’s a 8x14 +2’V. Here’s some pics

Bought the frame from a guy on hsolist for a pretty good price last winter. 

DF2756E3-0181-408D-9809-18A6B8114EA3.thumb.jpeg.bf20211e22f74bb66718a9a051953ae0.jpeg

33081EAD-C2E9-4214-AD4F-ED50AC01C906.thumb.jpeg.d71aa6d7f2194fae7dbf47cfc8c3fba9.jpeg

coated with a rust remover and then herculiner

2DFE088D-979A-47C7-BBEC-863E0EF78C08.thumb.jpeg.395f3581deb63ece37c50c1fc40f8039.jpeg

Spray foamed the floor but put 1” foam over the frame to hopefully keep from having cold spots, didn’t put foam across it all as I’d rather have the spray foam attached to the floor ply than foam insul. 3/4” plywood for the floor.

9B6F908D-BC6A-4E41-80B2-5F40839225D2.thumb.jpeg.d07810f2ebdd33a692c5808ca526cc2e.jpeg

2x3 studs for the walls

608DA939-71D3-4F4F-BC20-CB54DE14FDE5.thumb.jpeg.8b24d7e5c545226194ff857d5f720f29.jpeg2C09D92D-AEB7-4930-A6BD-E47D551FF875.thumb.jpeg.7f5a73fd84171d87455a68dc24c9370e.jpeg

Even though I spray foamed the inside, decided for whatever reason to put 1/4” ply up. Doing it again i would probably leave that out to save a little weight.

0731D8A5-6EC3-4C07-9150-680041774A9E.thumb.jpeg.3b5ef692d77fb2e9fe1dd0b42443f4de.jpeg

Pro rib steel with 2’ diamond plate. HDPE in the wheel wells.

A38B64F9-0932-410F-9720-10C099B9DD81.thumb.jpeg.8f3017cf2e45737de8dee24e48a7d9d2.jpeg

Rubber roofC374B7BD-90AA-426D-93D4-D1BBAD4FB97A.thumb.jpeg.7501cf1d84e23b0285b7278ca46d3b48.jpegE859C92F-C1F9-4608-9BA0-A6730E2926AB.thumb.jpeg.fd59ddf4779b93c2835919284aff5904.jpeg

Sprayed it myself with a kit. Thought it turned out pretty well but a few areas didn’t get it as thick as I wanted. I’ll be putting a layer of the fiberglass insul behind the paneling to fill the studs completely.

2C11346B-317F-4330-8CBA-8DE1EB2B3826.thumb.jpeg.3b164e0a8f302b8f7316a94d3dacd9db.jpeg734ECCAA-D899-4286-AEAE-31853FD629E3.thumb.jpeg.15979d8ed82066636ebd306ea3a35234.jpeg

Here’s where it’s at today. I’ll be installing the rubber floor and finishing up the wiring today.

 

Plenty of work left but it’s starting to look like a fish house! Thanks for reading along and I’ll try post updates as it goes from here. Hoping for two weeks from today to be done with everything!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Bum, Welcome to the forum.

Nice work on the house. I like your seat pads. Did you have someone make them or just luck out and find them some where?  It's really going to look nice when finished. 

I've always wanted to build my own house as well. If I had the time, and patience, and skills, and money, and space, and tools, and a different wife!!  :D

Good Luck with the rest of the build. :) 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Leech, I hear you! I actually got the dinette cushions on hsolist for what I thought was a reasonable price, I’m really excited about them too! 

C4F31F3E-CAC3-4403-82BF-E3BB4AE86C24.thumb.jpeg.94842929fb1efea8b294eb2fddcbdd8d.jpeg1C12C724-A9C3-4DFE-933A-D1BF89D9A8C2.thumb.jpeg.f9ce81c12304468cbece1c4afc6ec93a.jpeg

trailer lights put on and new wheels

B8362CCA-BCD5-41E3-B8BF-A2F3AEA2671A.thumb.jpeg.61b8d75301d9b235ffb7c66f5fd4d1e8.jpeg6CD4125A-B4E4-42A7-8D88-A70ECD7763B7.thumb.jpeg.9e4984a3f7701b736ce9c4697128c07e.jpeg

my dad used to install floor covering in his younger days so he was a huge help with this part. 

Have the next few days off of work so should be able to get a decent amount done this week!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Nope, the plywood grain should run the other way, shouldn't it? Also, why doesn't the plywood go to the edge of the frame? More strength.

Edited by Hawg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
12 minutes ago, Hawg said:

Also, why doesn't the plywood go to the edge of the frame? More strength.

Not finished yet? ;)

Edited by leech~~

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
5 hours ago, Hawg said:

Nope, the plywood grain should run the other way, shouldn't it? Also, why doesn't the plywood go to the edge of the frame? More strength.

Yes, it should go the other way. Didn’t even really think about it until I had already fastened it down. But it’s 3/4” so if there’s any flex it’s pretty minimal. And the ply does go to the edges, whoever made the frame made it 8’3 wide so there’s 1-1/2” on each side filled in with scrap. 

Got the lights hooked up tonight, should start paneling tomorrow!

D6529E13-91BB-4D58-8E22-529CB4160874.thumb.jpeg.d1f06581f4eaea097e8c8e32a0ce6b66.jpeg

Edited by Bum

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Looks good but i did notice something on your lights.  I believe that you need 3 lights in the middle top on the rear of your shack.  I am not 100% sure but i thought i would mention it before you finished just in case you need them.  I didn't look up the law in MN but here is a snippet from a quick online search.

Wide Trailers

Trailers that are more than 80 inches wide must be equipped with additional lighting on the front and rear to indicate the trailer's width. Two red rear clearance lights must be placed at the trailer's widest point, as far apart and as high as possible. Three red identification lights must be centered on the back of the trailer, spread between 6 and 12 inches apart, and placed as high as possible. Front clearance lights must be placed as high and as far forward as possible, at the trailer's widest point.

Edited by Blackhawkxp

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Blackhawk, wish I had read that earlier as I won’t be tearing it apart now! Seems like a pretty petite thing though and I’d be surprised if most LEO would give a ticket for that, I guess I’ll find out. It’ll only be on the road twice a year though.

 

Here’s what I got done today! Really happy with the looks of it so far. Adding the fiberglass insul behind to fill the studs so should hold heat nicely! 83A0873A-14C4-4E55-8297-DBB1D4458F73.thumb.jpeg.be0d41c0cb865a78f2f9c386cf34c114.jpeg

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
3 minutes ago, Bum said:

Blackhawk, wish I had read that earlier as I won’t be tearing it apart now! Seems like a pretty petite thing though and I’d be surprised if most LEO would give a ticket for that, I guess I’ll find out. It’ll only be on the road twice a year though.

 

Here’s what I got done today! Really happy with the looks of it so far. Adding the fiberglass insul behind to fill the studs so should hold heat nicely! 83A0873A-14C4-4E55-8297-DBB1D4458F73.thumb.jpeg.be0d41c0cb865a78f2f9c386cf34c114.jpeg

 

Just find a magnetic red light and slap her on he back on long drives home!  :lol:

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
12 hours ago, Bum said:

Blackhawk, wish I had read that earlier as I won’t be tearing it apart now! Seems like a pretty petite thing though and I’d be surprised if most LEO would give a ticket for that, I guess I’ll find out. It’ll only be on the road twice a year though.

 

Here’s what I got done today! Really happy with the looks of it so far. Adding the fiberglass insul behind to fill the studs so should hold heat nicely! 83A0873A-14C4-4E55-8297-DBB1D4458F73.thumb.jpeg.be0d41c0cb865a78f2f9c386cf34c114.jpeg

 

I was hoping to catch you before you had the interior done.  I wouldn't be too worried about it but i thought i would point it out just in case you had a chance to add them.  

Edited by Blackhawkxp

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I didn't know that either, I better find some magnetic battery operated ones. Sure don't want to have a beer with lunch and run into a LEO or Warden on a mission from God!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Some of them definitely will tag for the center lights.If you plan to trim the top at all I would tie into a marker light and run it along the top corner back to the trim and pop it through if you can.  Hate to have to go back at the end.  At a minimum throw some reflectors out there or something if you can.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Not saying you shouldn't do it right. But, I have seen a ton of home made pieces of craap plywood boxes as ice houses going down the road with only two rear trailer lights thrown on the back of them.  I'm sure some of them get dinged. At least throw a reflector up there. 

Go on C/List and you will see an amazing selection of home made houses and some how they go down the road with next to no side or back marker lighting! :crazy:

Example.

 

00O0O_9u86xyPUFsC_50x50c.jpg

00A0A_GsYXBr50ld_50x50c.jpg

Edited by leech~~

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Gonna go with leech’s advice and do the magnetic light. It’ll be a good summer project to add the other light. 

 

30594374-137A-4344-862A-D0DB94DE4DAA.thumb.jpeg.80c025248944aa69a212ebd64498d3f1.jpeg

Didn’t get to work on it today but got a bit more done yesterday.

8BD5F6B2-020A-420D-8005-2ACED082A938.jpeg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I’ve been looking for magnetic battery operated lights and all I can find is temp trailer light that are pretty expensive when you need 6-8. Anyone know where to get them. Even adhesive stick on ones would work. I might just use reflectors. 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
1 hour ago, Hawg said:

I’ve been looking for magnetic battery operated lights and all I can find is temp trailer light that are pretty expensive when you need 6-8. Anyone know where to get them. Even adhesive stick on ones would work. I might just use reflectors. 

66971E30-48C8-41E5-ADF5-939C29A9DECF.thumb.png.bc62dcb3eba122a3c7e74edb89bc6166.pngAA0FEC99-B620-4595-A7D6-E12EABE56DCA.thumb.png.d03f9478eaf528c2011b8922e0706987.png

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

 Thanks guys, I would really like to find some real cheap battery stick on ones or ones that I could Velcro because they really don’t take much abuse if you just use going and coming on the hiway

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Picking away at it a little each day. 120V system is done and works, 12v system is mostly done but have to install the outlets and the stereo/speakers, then go get the batteries, probably two AGMs. Thinking of moving the speakers to the V below the counter so I don’t have to build boxes for them on the ceiling and I didn’t wire them how I should have, so now trying to decide if I want to cover the ceiling holes where the speaker wires are dangling or put a small light in each of the 4. Seems a bit excessive so might just cover them.

Countertops will be simple, just 1x’s stained and finish nailed on. Same with the table for the dinette. Still have to install the furnace as well. Then the bunks and the small finishing touches will be last. Hoping by the end of the coming weekend it is competely ready for the lake! 8F0668A6-431A-4F12-89F9-CB07A600D98C.thumb.jpeg.6d43f1f85cab2ec005956fd60ce3c580.jpeg677BF6DC-9A37-4B3F-A934-3B1D1923ACD1.thumb.jpeg.8b7b499206ac05d1f39e5393d4ea69ca.jpeg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

You can buy standard size countertops off the shelf at Menards that look very good. Probably easier and better looking than  finishing 1x’s. 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

What I did for speakers in the ceiling was get two 1" thick rings made for each speaker and fastened them together it made enough depth so I didn't have to cut into the ceiling insulation.  I wrapped the ring in 3M black carbon fiber vinyl since it matches the black diamond plate theme in my house.  I didn't want to loose the insulation in the roof by cutting a speaker hole.  Any real stereo shop can easily make them for you, unless you have a router stand.  I bought mine from "e" bay custom made to the inner and outside dimensions I wanted for less than the price of sheet of mdf. 

Edited by aczr2k

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
On Thursday, November 30, 2017 at 9:49 PM, Bum said:

Gonna go with leech’s advice and do the magnetic light. It’ll be a good summer project to add the other light.

 

30594374-137A-4344-862A-D0DB94DE4DAA.thumb.jpeg.80c025248944aa69a212ebd64498d3f1.jpeg

Didn’t get to work on it today but got a bit more done yesterday.

 

Hey how do you like the Flexzilla Air Hose?  I used one at a Holiday gas station a few weeks ago and could not believe how light and flexible it was. I think they would good in cold weather for the garage.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
3 hours ago, leech~~ said:

Hey how do you like the Flexzilla Air Hose?  I used one at a Holiday gas station a few weeks ago and could not believe how light and flexible it was. I think they would good in cold weather for the garage.

Worth every penny! Usually go on sale every once in awhile too.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now




  • Posts

    • Buddie runs the blue bit gas Nills and Tanaka powerhead and he also told me they no longer make them. He bought another one off a guy just for a backup. Thinking maybe just the gas ones are gone  but possibly both, Interested to hear what Frank says. 
    • ajust in the controls of the radio????
    • Now I’m convinced. I made a shuttle for my Helix but I couldn’t get the settings right until yesterday. Love it with no interference with a Showdown right next to it. Still need to get the ice ducer for it. 
    • Thanks!  I went and spoke with the DMV, I was given a sheet for homemade trailers so I can itemize the parts.  Then I need to add up the values to pay sales tax on.  She said I can write "on-hand" for the parts so no receipt is needed. Just posting for reference.  
    • I believe the one I had was just a model #77 but in .22 cal.  It was a very nice rifle but a little heavy to carry squirrel hunting. It was not cheap either. My guess is I traded it for something else that caught my fancy. You know how that goes.
    • As I remember the round was developed by Col. Townsend Whelan.  It was well thought of at the time and could be loaded up to some serious heavy duty stuff,  big bullets etc.  It was favored in heavy cover since  it was thought of as a brush busting load. I am pretty sure it was available in at least one commercial rifle (Rem?) but it has long ago faded away as newer calibers etc. surpassed it. Am not sure the ammo was available commercially, but it would not take much of your time to  check it out. I'd start with the Col. and go from there.It had its strong supporters. The 35 Remington has a lot more going for it than the 30-30.
    • What kind of speakers and how are the speakers mounted? Sometimes they have to be in somewhat of a "box" to create the bass. 
    • sent him a note earlier
    •   I have a Nils and love it, would recommend it to anyone. Although I've never used the K-Drill, I've seen enough positive reviews to feel confident you really can't go wrong with either one. The only exception is if you're reopening holes a lot (especially if you have a permanent house). The K-Drill seems to be better for that. 
    • You need to go to the dmv and register it as a homemade trailer. 
  • Our Sponsors