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      Members Only Fluid Forum View   08/08/2017

      Fluid forum view allows members only to get right to the meat of this community; the topics. You can toggle between your preferred forum view just below to the left on the main forum entrance. You will see three icons. Try them out and see what you prefer.   Fluid view allows you, if you are a signed up member, to see the newest topic posts in either all forums (select none or all) or in just your favorite forums (select the ones you want to see when you come to Fishing Minnesota). It keeps and in real time with respect to Topic posts and lets YOU SELECT YOUR FAVORITE FORUMS. It can make things fun and easy. This is especially true for less experienced visitors raised on social media. If you, as a members want more specific topics, you can even select a single forum to view. Let us take a look at fluid view in action. We will then break it down and explain how it works in more detail.   The video shows the topic list and the forum filter box. As you can see, it is easy to change the topic list by changing the selected forums. This view replaces the traditional list of categories and forums.   Of course, members only can change the view to better suit your way of browsing.   You will notice a “grid” option. We have moved the grid forum theme setting into the main forum settings. This makes it an option for members only to choose. This screenshot also shows the removal of the forum breadcrumb in fluid view mode. Fluid view remembers your last forum selection so you don’t lose your place when you go back to the listing. The benefit of this feature is easy to see. It removes a potential barrier of entry for members only. It puts the spotlight on topics themselves, and not the hierarchical forum structure. You as a member will enjoy viewing many forums at once and switching between them without leaving the page. We hope that fluid view, the new functionality is an asset that you enjoy .
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IndyEFI500

Building a new smoker

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So I have decided that my smoker affliction is raring up again and I need to build something new.  I have seen a number of smoke houses on the internet that are made of cedar and look kind of like an old outhouse.  Me being me thinks that would be funny in our yard ( the wife agrees if I just get something nicer looking than my old refrigerator smoker).  So here is my thoughts on how to build one.  Pour a floating cement slab.  Keep some ready rod sticking out of it for the next step.  Then build forms to pour concrete walls about two foot high or so.  The ready rod will help anchor the slab to the walls.  On one side of the concrete walls leave an opening to attach a metal door for stoking the fire and removing ashes.  On top of the concrete wall build an all cedar smokehouse about four to five feet tall.  Probably build it taller in the front and shorter in the back for a pitched roof.  Here is where I am debating on really what to do.  I generally only smoke with small amounts of charcoal and the rest real wood such as oak pieces or apple, hickory or what ever I'm in the mood for.  Thus I think two feet of concrete should be more than enough as a firebox but am debating on using cement backer board to line the inside to make it even more fireproof.  I am wondering if the cement backer board is ok to use in a smoker or if I should just skip it.  I also want this to be somewhat insulated as we don't have much in the way of trees to the NW side of where I am building this and want to be able to use it in the winter.  With my current fridge I can just move it to a calm area on the other side of the house but this will not be movable.  I have two pics of kind of what I am going for enclosed.  If I had a little more room I would love to build the one with the work table.  Let me know your thoughts, ideas, concerns. 

Cedar smoker.jpg

smoke house 2 - 15- 09.jpg

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It depends on the type of smoker you want to build. I casually refer to them as either cold smokers or cookers. A true cold smoker would move the heat source and smoke generation farther away from the house so that it dissipates the heat and pushes the smoke to the house at a low temperature.In these you can do sausages, hams and a wide variety of sausages and cured meats. 

 

The ones you show that have the heat right in or right under the house will work great as well. We used on like this for a few decades to smoke our deer sausage. They will often require you to watch them much more closely IME to keep the smoke going while making sure you monitor the temp to keep it from getting too high.

 

Either way you can make a lot of great tasting  stuff in them. You just need to understand what the strengths and drawbacks are to each and which is a better fit for what you want to do.

 

I would consider maybe making it a bit taller so you can get multiple layers in there. As you can see, you can have the heat source in there and still have wood interior. But that increases the odds of a fire if you let the fire get out of control. I would also check with your insurance especially if it is going to be within 50 feet of your house. many companies will have a setback for anything that uses wood to make heat and especially if it isn't UL listed. I found out the hard way with a Canadian made outdoor corn fed boiler I bought many years back. 

 

Personally I am torn between doing what you are doing and building a fridge smoker out of an old metal refrigerator that I can get from a friend for free. If I do that I will put in a pellet feeder and controller to run the feeder and control the temp.

 

 

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If it were me, and it isn't, I would offset the firebox.    That would (should?) allow better control of the temperature and smoke, and easier firing.    

 

Sort of the wood version of those big smokers made out of old propane tanks.  

 

http://www.pbs.org/food/features/bbq-with-franklin-season-1-episode-4-the-pits/

 

Edited by delcecchi

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Thanks for the thoughts.  I have tossed around the idea as well of an off set smoker.  The problem I have is in the size I want I can't find a heavy enough vessel without making one.  That would add to the cost greatly if I had to buy that much heavy steel.  I want heavy steel if I go that way as it will be residing on the NW side of the deck area and not much in the way of wind block in the winter. 

 

I am enclosing pics of my two current smokers.  "Big Sexy" was a 300 gallon fuel barrel that a friend of mine and I built.  We added dual fire boxes to it and have it set to do rods for sausage, a grill or a whole hog.  We use charcoal and oak slabs to fire it.  We can keep it as low as 125 for doing sausage or up to 400 for grilling.  We haven't tried grilling much with it but we are quite certain we could get more temperature out of it if we tried. 

 

The second is my refrigerator smoker.  This picture was not long after I first built it years ago.  I have made numerous changes to it now.  I do debate on making an offset smoke box for it and just keeping it instead.  Probably would save me time but I also hate to screw up something that works.  If I stay with regular or lump charcoal I can keep it pretty steady at 150 and have had it up to 325.  Now that I have switched to charcoal and oak chunks it is much harder to control. 

 

I have also thought about and like the pellet smokers but mine sit out  in the wide open and I don't want to be dragging them in and out of the garage all the time.  I have not heard of too many pellet smokers that can withstand being outdoors all the time.  If someone knows of one I'm all ears.  I really don't need to build another but it's been about three years since I built one and am kind of getting the itch.  Plus the wife says she would like something nicer in the back yard.  Let me know if anyone thinks of anything else. 

25126021080_e92cf1a297_c.jpg

IMG_0203.JPG

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How many hundred people/ dozens of people/ you gonna be feeding at a time?   

 

The franklin bbq book has a lot of writing and opinions about smokers, and how they should be made and work. 

 

I have no experience on a large scale or with offset smokers so won't opine on the issue.   

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  • Your Responses - Share & Have Fun :)

    • Thank you for the responses. I do know it’s a right of wayband not blockable...except...I seen one coming and did park in the area after work this week.  In a split second she/he turned around and went the other way. My truck would fill the approach but I only had the car that day.—this response is what I’m trying to avoid. knoppers-there was no bank there...there were little dots through the snow that was pulled back onto the driveway. Heck, he was up near the tree line. Wanderer-it’s a small rural area, I’ll be the ... The snow and ice is melting down to the tar today, they drove in it anyway. It’s 130 am and ya...time for jumping. Thanks for all the answers. I don’t feel alone in feeling it’s rude. That helps. 
    • I would think so, it would be no different than parking on the shoulder of the road. my commit was more related to people that put up barriers, to keep others from crossing there approach.
    •   Sounds plausible to me.  Is the thickened footing in your mind the same as pouring the perimeter of the slab thicker?  We did an 8 inch perimeter around the 4 inch slab.
    • Yes. But on a post framed building the only think I ever see is a thickened footing and not a foundation to the frost line. A major benefit of post framing is that you install the posts below the frost line so the need for a concrete foundation below the frost line is not needed. If I am understanding the question correctly. 
    • FYI driveway approaches are on the public right of way, you may not block them, or place anything that can injure someone.   May a person park their own vehicle in their own driveway approach?
    • I think they’re more looking at the footings requirement, aren’t they?  Thus the reason for getting the poles below the frost line?   Its the township’s responsibility to figure this out and you have the right to ask them to cite the code they’re following.   I used to live in Isanti County and dealt with a building inspector from my township on the construction of my detached garage.  Things weren’t very strict to say the least.     We built everything by the current UBC code, so I’d suggest first getting a copy of the current version of that since this building will actually be your home.  Don’t take unnecessary shortcuts to save a few bucks up front.  You’ll eventually regret it.   Reading your plans for the slab, it sounds pretty good.  There are plenty of slab homes out there built the way you describe.  What you don’t want is movement.     I’m not an expert by any means but I think footings on your slab wouldn’t be a bad idea and sinking your poles that deep should be a requirement.  If you don’t do footings, at least pour your slab thicker on the perimeter to hold it better.    Your local Authority Having Jurisdiction (AHJ) can be more restrictive than code, but not less.  So if it’s defined in the UBC, you have to do at least that much.
    • I’ve personally been on both sides of this.   Used to love getting as much air as possible over driveways but I never understood gunning it on the other side after crossing.  I guess some are just mild adrenaline junkies.    I quit doing that for one, because it’s illegal, and two, not safe if the homeowner happens to be leaving or getting the mail at the time.   Now that I have a posted trail going over my driveway, I find it just rude, obnoxious and irritating to deal with 4 wheelers and sleds gunning it over the gravel and making ruts and eroding my base to the point of it being an expense to either plow and pack the class 5 back in place or spend the money to pave it.  I hate having to bounce over two ruts with my trailers and whatever I’m hauling in them too.   I think that’s the worst part for me.  Either jump it or be mellow on the throttle the entire way over.   I’ve seen trail groomers go around driveways before, making me wonder if that truly is a requirement or they were simply being courteous.  But I agree with knoppers, they should not drag over the driveway.  Maybe they think they’re taking the snow off for ya.  Call the people responsible for the trail and ask them for suggestions.  
    • If you want to get through ice fast and are going to re-tool for it completely, look at a Nils before making your final decision. 
    • I am fully aware of this as are most people.
    • some people are bad apples that give the sport a bad name, I as a snowmobiler have respect for driveways. FYI driveway approaches are on the public right of way, you may not block them, or place anything that can injure someone. trail groomers actually do you a favor by knocking down the bank, to keep it level. unless your groomer was not well trained, they will not groom over your driveway.
  • MWO