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DLD24

96 lund floor replacement

42 posts in this topic

Plywood is really stiff and strong for its weight.     Also doesn't cost too much.   Lasts 20 years or more.   

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Well hopefully the boat will be all done by the weekend...The vinyl should be here Wednesday, that's the only thing I'm waiting on...I'm going to cut the one big piece of the floor so I can fit it in without taking the console out and just so its easier. My plan is to cut it bow to stern, does anyone recommend cutting it a different way...I think this way will look the best. The dotted line is where I plan on cutting, the port to starboard side dotted line was my other way I thought of cutting it, the seem would be hidden under the storage boxes that way. Figured I'd post a picture on here to see if anyone that's done it before has any better way they did it...Thanks for the input 

20170306_114907.jpg

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Also anyone have the best way to fold the vinyl on the corners...This is way the way I plan on doing it..

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Don't the consoles sit on the floor?   My console (different model) sure looks like it does.  

 

You are cutting so there is something under the joint, right?   Or making something to support the edge?  

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No on mine the consoles are in front of the main floor just a touch...Yes the stringers would be under it...My pics from previous posts show how the stringers are laid out...

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Well laid the new floor in and it fits perfectly...Depending on how thick this vinyl is I might have to sand some to get the pieces in with the vinyl so much for the gaps ha... The power decided to go out on my before I could get the rest of my work I wanted to get done today, darn wind.

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Well got the boat pretty much done, just have to put the livewell overflow back on and the battery compartment...I'm happy with the vinyl (nautolex shark grey). I have some vinyl left over, in the summer I might try and make a rod locker between the consoles... Not just need some open water :)

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delcecchi likes this

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looks good ! Get the seat repaired before it gets to bad and you end up replacing it with a mismatch replacement .

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I feel like that project was kind of like when you do brakes for the 1st time and 1st side takes 2 hours to do and 2nd side takes 15 mins....If I had to do it again, I feel like it wouldn't take very long...That dang livewell overflow is the only thing that is pain in the butt...

 

BartmanMN and BoxMN like this

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Looks great!

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Does anyone know if there's a reason why they have the thru hull livewell overflow rather than the just the hollow tube for the plug...My 91 rebel just has the the hollow tube and I never had any problems with it overflowing...Im thinking I'm just going to plug the thru hull, then I don't have to mess with it again if I have to take that part of the floor up again. It just seems unnecessary 

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If anyone is looking for something to plug their livewell overflow, test plugs seem like they will work like a charm...

20170317_115817.jpg

gunner55 likes this

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On 2/25/2017 at 2:08 PM, LindellProStaf said:

Ya I have always wondered why they don't use some kind of plastic or fiberglass in boat floors.  Would be a great marketing strategy for some manufacturer...

Warrior used synthetic floors.

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On 3/14/2017 at 8:10 PM, DLD24 said:

Does anyone know if there's a reason why they have the thru hull livewell overflow rather than the just the hollow tube for the plug...My 91 rebel just has the the hollow tube and I never had any problems with it overflowing...Im thinking I'm just going to plug the thru hull, then I don't have to mess with it again if I have to take that part of the floor up again. It just seems unnecessary 

Just different ways of doing the same thing.  If you using the live well you do need a way of letting water out of the boat.  

gunner55 likes this

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My guess would be that when it's a little windy & the boat is bouncing / rocking a little more the 1 on the side probably helps keep it from splashing over the top. Keeping the inside of the boat a little drier. :confused: :2c: 

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