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DLD24

96 lund floor replacement

42 posts in this topic

Well today was day 1, the carpet came out super easy..I got 4 screws out of the deck and the rest are all rusted so it is a pain to get the old floor out...Is there any trick to get the livewell overflow off? I'm pretty sure the tubing is glued in there...I hammered a putty knife all around the seal and it will not budge... The foam looks to be in good shape except for way in stern where the floor was rotted.

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I would drill the screws.   Then later you can grab the stubs with a vice grip and get them out. 

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Geez that was a nice boat. Didn't you have a snap on cover for it or did you buy it used or something? :(

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I just bought it in December with a soft spot in it, that's why I got it so cheap haha

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Day 2 finally got the dang livewell out, the rest of the floor out, and it all vacuumed out. Now time to get the vinyl and put the new floor in.

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gunner55 likes this

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So how did you get the livewell overflow out? We've had some problems with ours & have toyed with the idea of replacing it. We don't really want to tear all the floor up though. 

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Went to the hardware store and bought a couple sets of these (wanted to make sure I had the right size). Then I pulled the livewell out enough so I could get the pliers in between the livewell and the side of the boat...Then I was able to loosen the nut so then I could turn by hand from inside the compartment. It was a pain in the a$$ but I finally got it off haha...I feel like there has to be an easier way.

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gunner55 likes this

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How long should I expect the new marine plywood to last if I don't epoxy it? I'm trying to decide if I should epoxy it or not since it was relatively easy to get the floor out...It's about money, I've just been reading it has to be really warm for the epoxy to cure correctly and I don't have a heated garage. The boat will be covered at all times and stored indoors for the winters.

Edited by DLD24

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The 1 causing us trouble is in the bottom of our livewell. Somehow somebody managed to get it crossthreaded & it's a real PITA to get the overflow tube started right. I've just been plugging it, but that leaks & letting it go out the side.

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What type of wood are you putting in for the new floor. Might look into another way to paint, stain, seal it.:2c: 

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Marine grade plywood, straight from Lund...Also I meant to say it's not about money.

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On 2/22/2017 at 0:02 PM, DLD24 said:

Marine grade plywood, straight from Lund...Also I meant to say it's not about money.

 

My two cents... if you use vinyl you will never have to replace it again. When is the water ever going to hit it and STAY moist? That is what carpet does, vinyl will allow the water to roll right off.

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Well I went to the dealership to order my vinyl and lucky I did, one of the salesman told me the precut wood I had ordered is sized for carpet and not vinyl. If I use the vinyl I'd have a quarter inch gap or so in between the pieces...So now I'm gonna go with carpet which sucks since I had my heart set on vinyl...oh well

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5 hours ago, DLD24 said:

Well I went to the dealership to order my vinyl and lucky I did, one of the salesman told me the precut wood I had ordered is sized for carpet and not vinyl. If I use the vinyl I'd have a quarter inch gap or so in between the pieces...So now I'm gonna go with carpet which sucks since I had my heart set on vinyl...oh well

 

Shouldn't be hard to come up with a way to fill a 1/4 inch gap, it seems to me.   Rip some strips of something, maybe even that synthetic decking, trex or something. 

 

Then you could have the vinyl

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I was thinking about it this morning and I'd be wrapping the 2 pieces individually in the vinyl vs how the factory did wrapping the whole floor with one piece of carpet...So wouldn't I be making up some of that gap? 

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1 hour ago, DLD24 said:

I was thinking about it this morning and I'd be wrapping the 2 pieces individually in the vinyl vs how the factory did wrapping the whole floor with one piece of carpet...So wouldn't I be making up some of that gap? 

Seems as if you would.  Where is the seam?

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15 inches out from the port side wall running from bow to stern.

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I thought of a few possibilities that might work.  

 

1.  You need like 1/8th inch of shim.   get some aluminum or plastic strips 1/8 thick and see how that plus the double layer of vinyl, fills the gap. 

 

2. They sell t-shaped plastic, or better yet, aluminum molding.   Cover the gap with that and some silicone to hold it.

https://www.lowes.com/pd/Schluter-Systems-0-344-in-W-x-98-5-in-L-Aluminum-Commercial-Residential-Tile-Edge-Trim/4328907?cm_mmc=SCE_PLA_ONLY-_-Flooring-_-SosCeramics-_-4328907:Schluter_Systems&CAWELAID=&kpid=4328907&CAGPSPN=pla&k_clickID=2b7019f3-3c90-4cfe-b281-03c39be7f0e2

(quick google search) example. Might even come in colors.   The siding guys use that stuff too.  

 

3. Put it all together and run a bead of silicone down the seam, in a color that sort of matches the vinyl. 

 

That's all I got.

 

 

 

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I was actually thinking about that aluminum molding earlier, I just don't know how nice that'd look haha. I'm going to lay the new wood in today and see how much gap I'll have... who knows maybe it'll fit perfect.

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7 minutes ago, DLD24 said:

I was actually thinking about that aluminum molding earlier, I just don't know how nice that'd look haha. I'm going to lay the new wood in today and see how much gap I'll have... who knows maybe it'll fit perfect.

An eighth inch bead of caulk would be the least obtrusive, visually.

What color vinyl?

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I tried to lay the floor in today and I'd  have to remove a console to get the big piece in....So instead I'm going to cut the big piece in half so it's a more manageable piece and that should fill the gap completely...I didn't have time to work on it today, but man I can't wait to see it all done...It's a light grey...If you've seen any of the brand new lunds it's going to be that color (every new one I saw had the same color)

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Sounds great.  I am looking forward to seeing the pictures. 

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Butt the 2 sheets tigh and leave the gap against the side walls of the boat where it will be less noticeable and get no foot traffic . A thin strip of aluminum riveted or screwed on the underneath side of the plywood helps to hold the seam tight

gunner55 likes this

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I'm surprised they havnt come up with a better option rather than wood floors that are going to eventually rot treated or not. HDP or fiberglass or ? Probably materials out there that can be sandwiched together and possibly lighter and stronger than plywood and will last a lot longer. I have a soft spot under my drivers side seat pedestal I have to attend to but I think/hope the rest of the floor is OK. Its a vinyl floor and I think water just seeped in under the pedestal and the screw holes and couldn't dry out. I will find out this spring when I tear into it. Hopefully only have to patch in a small piece.

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Ya I have always wondered why they don't use some kind of plastic or fiberglass in boat floors.  Would be a great marketing strategy for some manufacturer...

gunner55 likes this

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