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Kenmore Gas Stove - oven not starting

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Hi all, I have a Kenmore Gas Stove that is fairly old, but I can't even find a model number. It has electric ignitor and digital settings, so not REAL old.


Stove top burners are working fine, and last night I baked some burgers in the oven just fine, and I did use broiler, all worked fine. But it was spurting fat I am sure. But it worked.


Today wife went to put in a prime rib for my Mom's birthday dinner.... (figures, on this day it happens...) and the oven won't fire up on any setting. Not Bake, Not Broil, not Clean.


I do have instructions for "bake burner removal" and "Igniter (glowbar) replacement". Do either of these things seem like they might take of my issue? Or what else should I look for? Might I have clogged a jet, or blown out a pilot (I don't think this has a regular pilot as I don't recall ever needing to light one before.).


Thanks for any help or advice! I don't want to get a new stove... Glad I have good neighbors who will cook the meat, hope they don't eat it too ;)

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i had something similar happen to my kenmore gas oven. if you pull out the warming drawer and get down and look there should be a model number. I had to call an appliance repair guy to get the parts as I had no clue where to start. it was a cheap fix but dealing with gas etc, I just opted to let a pro do it. labor was more expensive than the parts so wasnt to bad.

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Thanks Run!


From the looks of it so far, I will need a single igniter for the lower, but the broiler does seem to be working if I give it time. About a $20 part on Amazon, and I will see how much it goes for locally tomorrow. I think I can tackle it, thanks to YouTube ;)

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I replaced an igniter on an oven and it is pretty easy.  Bought an oven for deer camp and stove top worked but igniter did not get hot enough to open the gas valve.  $25 Amazon part and 20 minutes and it is now working like a charm.  Stay away from OEM parts as they will cost $100 or so.

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I have had excellent luck at Northland Appliance back off of White Bear Parkway south of 96 a couple of blocks.  Every time I have gone in there to buy a part I explain what the problem is and they say exactly what I need.  It may take them a few days to get it, and you may pay more than you would on-line but getting the right dope ASAP is worth it in my book.  There is also an appliance parts place on Willow Lake Bvd west of 61 a block or so.  Maybe Dey?  Good selection of parts but not good with advice on what  you need.

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I had the same experience with the place west of 61 when getting a washer belt. Perfect belt (not cheap there either) but no advice. Will keep the other place in mind for next fix :)


The Amazon part was identical and showed up on Monday and took 20 minutes to install and put oven back together. I only uttered one swear word, and that was from dropping a screw... Piece of cake fix.

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  • Your Responses - Share & Have Fun :)

    • Thank you for the responses. I do know it’s a right of wayband not blockable...except...I seen one coming and did park in the area after work this week.  In a split second she/he turned around and went the other way. My truck would fill the approach but I only had the car that day.—this response is what I’m trying to avoid. knoppers-there was no bank there...there were little dots through the snow that was pulled back onto the driveway. Heck, he was up near the tree line. Wanderer-it’s a small rural area, I’ll be the ... The snow and ice is melting down to the tar today, they drove in it anyway. It’s 130 am and ya...time for jumping. Thanks for all the answers. I don’t feel alone in feeling it’s rude. That helps. 
    • I would think so, it would be no different than parking on the shoulder of the road. my commit was more related to people that put up barriers, to keep others from crossing there approach.
    •   Sounds plausible to me.  Is the thickened footing in your mind the same as pouring the perimeter of the slab thicker?  We did an 8 inch perimeter around the 4 inch slab.
    • Yes. But on a post framed building the only think I ever see is a thickened footing and not a foundation to the frost line. A major benefit of post framing is that you install the posts below the frost line so the need for a concrete foundation below the frost line is not needed. If I am understanding the question correctly. 
    • FYI driveway approaches are on the public right of way, you may not block them, or place anything that can injure someone.   May a person park their own vehicle in their own driveway approach?
    • I think they’re more looking at the footings requirement, aren’t they?  Thus the reason for getting the poles below the frost line?   Its the township’s responsibility to figure this out and you have the right to ask them to cite the code they’re following.   I used to live in Isanti County and dealt with a building inspector from my township on the construction of my detached garage.  Things weren’t very strict to say the least.     We built everything by the current UBC code, so I’d suggest first getting a copy of the current version of that since this building will actually be your home.  Don’t take unnecessary shortcuts to save a few bucks up front.  You’ll eventually regret it.   Reading your plans for the slab, it sounds pretty good.  There are plenty of slab homes out there built the way you describe.  What you don’t want is movement.     I’m not an expert by any means but I think footings on your slab wouldn’t be a bad idea and sinking your poles that deep should be a requirement.  If you don’t do footings, at least pour your slab thicker on the perimeter to hold it better.    Your local Authority Having Jurisdiction (AHJ) can be more restrictive than code, but not less.  So if it’s defined in the UBC, you have to do at least that much.
    • I’ve personally been on both sides of this.   Used to love getting as much air as possible over driveways but I never understood gunning it on the other side after crossing.  I guess some are just mild adrenaline junkies.    I quit doing that for one, because it’s illegal, and two, not safe if the homeowner happens to be leaving or getting the mail at the time.   Now that I have a posted trail going over my driveway, I find it just rude, obnoxious and irritating to deal with 4 wheelers and sleds gunning it over the gravel and making ruts and eroding my base to the point of it being an expense to either plow and pack the class 5 back in place or spend the money to pave it.  I hate having to bounce over two ruts with my trailers and whatever I’m hauling in them too.   I think that’s the worst part for me.  Either jump it or be mellow on the throttle the entire way over.   I’ve seen trail groomers go around driveways before, making me wonder if that truly is a requirement or they were simply being courteous.  But I agree with knoppers, they should not drag over the driveway.  Maybe they think they’re taking the snow off for ya.  Call the people responsible for the trail and ask them for suggestions.  
    • If you want to get through ice fast and are going to re-tool for it completely, look at a Nils before making your final decision. 
    • I am fully aware of this as are most people.
    • some people are bad apples that give the sport a bad name, I as a snowmobiler have respect for driveways. FYI driveway approaches are on the public right of way, you may not block them, or place anything that can injure someone. trail groomers actually do you a favor by knocking down the bank, to keep it level. unless your groomer was not well trained, they will not groom over your driveway.
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