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Snowbound

Kdrill or Nils

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Not saying that's a make or break deal but I remember guys switching from a Nils to a Strikemaster when they came out with the Solo and they couldn't believe the difference in hole cleaning. 

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The Nils will leave more shavings.  The drill head is slightly larger than the auger fluting.  Not an issue for me though.  I usually bring a bucket with a scoop along when I hole hop. I don't like my holes totally clean and often leave more shavings in on a sunny day especially when fishing shallow out on the ice.  I've had fish get spooky from all the sunlight coming through.

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MidCoast, mind me asking what you got for a used Kdrill? I love my Ion but since I have a Fuel drill I might be tempted to try one if a used one became available. Ice fisherman need one of everything don't they?

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I don't seem to have trouble with shavings left in the hole with my Nils. I just continue to run the drill while I lift it out. Cleans out quite well. Usually less than a handful left. Don't hardly use my scoop any more.

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10 minutes ago, Surface Tension said:

I drill around 2000 -2500 holes a year.

 

Frank, you don't need a Nils auger. You need to find better lakes to fish! :lol:

6 hours ago, eyeguy 54 said:

. this got here yesturday, hope to check it out saturday a.m. :) 

16358955_10211441398572802_160723526_n.jpg

 

Where what time? Would like to watch the drilling show! :P

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How is the Nils for redrilling partially froze over holes?

 

What is the difference between the blue and orange 8"

Nils as far as blade and flighting?

One longer than the other or have advantages over the other?

 

I can make the power adaptor for the blue auger if needed. 

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The orange model has a plate up by the top that will prevent it from going down the hole if the chuck of the drill gets loose. If you use the blue ones you need a adapter and some type of safety catch so it dose not sink to the bottom if it should come loose.

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 Snowbound,    I use my Nils to  open holes in the perm.  No problem but like any auger you might have to control the feed depending on how froze over the hole is.  IMO it worked better then my old Mag III Chipper. About 5 years ago Nils reduced the size of the 8" blade, reason being to leave less chips in the hole. 

 

 

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I would worry more about that drill than the auger part. I have lots of those Ryobi tools and love them for homeowner stuff but it's not a very heavy duty unit. 

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Thanks for the info.

Jim I understand the differences in the adaptor end but wonder differences in the business end (blade and flighting)

I plan on using the auger inside a house with a drill. Do you stick with the orange premade setup or if I find a good deal on the blue auger do I pick it up and make an adapter? Maybe the blue auger doesn't work good with a drill. 

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The cutting head and the flighting will be pretty much the same but Surface Tension can give you the correct answer as he sharpens them and will know for sure. I own the blue 6" and 8" only and both work great with my 20v Dewalt. The orange model is ready to use right out of the box with a drill or the handle to cut by hand. If you find a blue one for a great price the Ice Master is $40.00 and works great. If you have access to a machine shop it would be easy to whip one up with a lathe and bridgeport.

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Snowbound,  the Convertible(orange) and Standard Blue can use the red or black blades. The black(Slick) blade is a hair less aggressive.

 

 I was thinking about your question about drilling old holes.  As I said I've done it,  a lot but that was with the Tanaka powerheads.  If you bind with the powerhead the clutch will slip and you can easily hold it back.

 A drill set to drill mode will not slip.  For that reason I'd use the clutch setting if I thought there might be some bind. In fact if you have a brand auger that is know to bind at the bottom I would rather have the clutch ratchet instead of getting that instant snap.

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3 hours ago, Hawg said:

I would worry more about that drill than the auger part. I have lots of those Ryobi tools and love them for homeowner stuff but it's not a very heavy duty unit. 

 

 

I can only go by the first outing.  P214 is the model # of the drill.  I would drill a bunch then take gloves off and feel for heat and smell it and did not notice anything.  a cold has me down right now so not sure when the next time out is. 

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For drilling old holes and holes in the wheel house a blue nils with a red cutting head and power point head is nice. The power point keeps the head where it needs to go, and makes it nice for starting a hole that needs to be recut and cuts right away......no slide before it cuts. Auger head slide can happen on uneven ice before the auger grabs to cut, which sucks if you only have an area like a floor hole in a wheel house and you want the hole in the center. If you have a wheel house you'll want the power point.

 

Not sure on the orange nils.....but the blue nils was long enough this weekend that I was able to drill my holes in the wheel house when it was completely raised. I had a blue nils with a power point red cutting head mounted on a clam plate (Gen 2). with a milwaukee brushless 1200in/lb fuel drill. I had enough length without an extention to cut through 25in of ice in my raised wheel house and i had quite a bit of room between my handles and the raised wheel house floor. Found when a guy was scouting spots we could pop the hole covers drill the holes and fished outta the raised wheel house looking for fish. Then once we found them we could drop down the wheel house. 

 

One thing to keep in mind is an 8in nils cutting head is 8.5 in wide. The 8in K-drill is 7.5in wide. If you fish in cold temps and the hole freezes down the extra inch is nice. 

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3 hours ago, eyeguy 54 said:

 

worked it out today.  36 holes in 19 inches of ice and battery was done.. lovin it! :) 

 

Not bad. Looks like the black cutting head is a touch slower......still the smooth cut though. 

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On 1/25/2017 at 10:15 AM, Jim Uran said:

Isn't the Nils known for leaving a record amount of shavings in the hole? lol

 

Right before you bust thru the bottom of the ice take your foot and swipe away the shavings next to the flutes (one swipe will work fine). Then continue drilling the hole and let the hole flush water for a second or two longer than your use to. This will leave your hole pretty darn slush free.

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10 hours ago, vtx1029 said:

 

Right before you bust thru the bottom of the ice take your foot and swipe away the shavings next to the flutes (one swipe will work fine). Then continue drilling the hole and let the hole flush water for a second or two longer than your use to. This will leave your hole pretty darn slush free.

 

This and do a plung down and up. Hole will be completely clean of slush then.

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