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knoppers

Battery issue

19 posts in this topic

I just bought a 2017 sportsman 850SP in late November, all stock. I rode it a few times shortly after, only 3 miles on it, went to start it two weeks ago, and the battery was dead. I put the charger on it for a hour, and it started, I let it run for a good 10 minutes, and the instruments said 14.6 for charge. now I went to start it today, the same thing, battery dead. put a cheap battery tester on it, and it said 20 percent. woundering if I should take it back to the dealer, any thoughts?

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I would. Lotsa lousy batts out there. It happens. I went through two in row in a brand new F-150. Have them check your charging output, too.

leech~~ and gunner55 like this

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I wonder if it sat too long on the floor with a low battery or someone left key on or something. Those AGM batteries do not like to be run low and its hard on them but they are great batteries. The biggest problem with them is recharging them. If the charging voltage is too high, over 14 to 14.5 volts, it will fry the battery. The battery should be charged at a rate of .75 to 1.5 amps on an auto shut off battery charger. If it's a 15 amp hr battery and is dead, it should be charged at 1.5 amps or less for 10 hrs. Put it on a 6 amp charger and it will charge it toooo fast and kill it.

 

I would take it in to have it tested, should be able to do it right at the counter at most auto stores. If its bad take it back to the dealer I would hope they would swap it out for a good one.

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when that happened to my wheeler the dealer made me bring the whole rig because of the warranty 

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I also bought a new Polaris 850 Touring.  I had starting problems almost immediately, but I had the solution.  I took out the stock battery and the spacer that sits under it and installed an Odyssey battery model PC925L.  The "L" is for left hand positive.  The Odyssey battery is over twice the size of the OEM battery from Polaris, takes some doing to get it to fit, but once installed no more battery problems - ever.  I've had an Odyssey battery for 7 years in another quad.  It sits all winter, no charger, no nothing.  Pull it out in the spring and start it up, the Odyssey has plenty of cranking capacity - even after sitting for 6 months. 

 

You can buy a new battery from the dealer, and do the same every 2 to 4 years or buy an Odyssey battery and have a long term solution that won't let you down.

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On 12/30/2016 at 7:30 PM, knoppers said:

I just bought a 2017 sportsman 850SP in late November, all stock. I rode it a few times shortly after, only 3 miles on it, went to start it two weeks ago, and the battery was dead. I put the charger on it for a hour, and it started, I let it run for a good 10 minutes, and the instruments said 14.6 for charge. now I went to start it today, the same thing, battery dead. put a cheap battery tester on it, and it said 20 percent. woundering if I should take it back to the dealer, any thoughts?

 

For a $9-10 grand machine. In a heart beat bring it back. Once the warranty is up then go out and buy a better brand battery.

knoppers and Mike89 like this

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so far it seems to be holding a charge after leaving the charger on for 3 hours. I will check the level again after this very cold weather to see how it holds up, if its depleated again, its going back.

my 2011 850 had no issues with the battery at all. my 2002 Yamaha grizz, the battery lasted 10 years, of course that was carbed.

 

leech~~ likes this

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On 1/4/2017 at 11:22 AM, leech~~ said:

 

For a $9-10 grand machine. In a heart beat bring it back. Once the warranty is up then go out and buy a better brand battery.

 

Run back 26 miles on a remote Canadian logging road grouse hunting.  Shut the machine off to get a grouse.  Hop back on machine and it won't start.  Spend the night in the woods so dark you can't see your hand in front of your face tending a fire and waiting  for sunrise.  Walk six miles back down the road at sun up.  Become tired and make a pillow out of birch branches and grab a few winks.  Walk another three miles and finally get picked up by some bow hunters. 

 

So I could return the machine to the dealer and get another crappy YUSA battery or I can fix the problem once and for all and have a machine i can rely on in the wilderness.  For about $135 and some of my time, I'll take the Odyssey battery and be done with battery problems forever, thanks.

knoppers likes this

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Posted (edited)

7 hours ago, walt501 said:

 

Run back 26 miles on a remote Canadian logging road grouse hunting.  Shut the machine off to get a grouse.  Hop back on machine and it won't start.  Spend the night in the woods so dark you can't see your hand in front of your face tending a fire and waiting  for sunrise.  Walk six miles back down the road at sun up.  Become tired and make a pillow out of birch branches and grab a few winks.  Walk another three miles and finally get picked up by some bow hunters. 

 

So I could return the machine to the dealer and get another crappy YUSA battery or I can fix the problem once and for all and have a machine i can rely on in the wilderness.  For about $135 and some of my time, I'll take the Odyssey battery and be done with battery problems forever, thanks.

Walt, in your case seems to make since. But, why wouldn't you bring an extra if your that far out in the bush?

Down here in the Lower 48. We just wait for the next 10 4 wheelers to roll by to give us a lift back! :)

Edited by leech~~
knoppers likes this

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16 hours ago, walt501 said:

So I could return the machine to the dealer and get another crappy YUSA battery or I can fix the problem once and for all and have a machine i can rely on in the wilderness. 

 Or return the crappy machine for one that doesn't eat batteries!;)

9 hours ago, leech~~ said:

 

Down here in the Lower 48. We just wait for the next 10 4 wheelers to roll by to give us a lift back! :)

 Not always like that where I ride leech! Last year on our annual spring ride we rode 5 days and 320+ miles and never saw another wheeler.

Just my personal experience, but Yuasa has delivered far from "crappy"performance for me! I have had 13 different ATVs,  all had Yuasa batteries and I've never had one let me down on the trail. Most lasted the life of the wheeler (while I owned it), and most were also used for winching and plowing. The worst things for a battery are heat, vibration and lack of use. If a new wheeler is having problems with a battery that soon when it is being used.......my experience tells me either the machine is defective or the battery is! Even an overpriced, new, super heavy duty, best ever, battery won't solve a problem if the battery isn't the problem. Throwing a new battery in a machine that could potentially have an electrical problem is just setting you up to have another bad day!

If you still have warranty, by all means have it checked out! Either way they should eat the cost, not you. At least you won't be left wondering if the battery was the issue or not..... :(

knoppers likes this

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Posted (edited)

I will attempt another start tomorrow, and if this is not good, for sure its going back to the dealer. I have had good luck with Yuasa batterys, maybe I just got a drained one put in that was sitting around to long, or its got bad cells.

 

when running, it does say 14.6 volts, so it must be charging

Edited by knoppers

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Guys I am all for putting in the biggest gosh-darn power house of a battery you can fit in there. ;)

 

I'm just saying if I spent $9-10 grand on a rig the darn thing better start when it's still under warranty or someones going to be hearing about it and making the issue right!! :angry:

:)

knoppers, BobT, Mike89 and 1 other like this

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Knoppers...sounds like you're not alone. There's 4-5 guys on other sites with the same brand machine you have, and the exact same problem...I dunno, you figger it out. I'm going with a bad batch of batteries.

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Batteries don't like to sit idle so getting and putting a battery tender on them ocassionally will usually extend their life. Car batteries usually last a long time because they get used a lot. Also not sure what kind of battery they use but there are better batteries than acid type batteries for all terrain vehicles that are bouncing down the road. With that said I have had bad batteries that didn't make it a year and the same brand battery go for many years.

gunner55 and leech~~ like this

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it was dead again, even after putting the tester on it that said 90%, it still would not turn over. after trying, the tester said 30%. I called the dealer, and it is going in Tuesday.

leech~~ and RebelSS like this

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they load tested the battery and said it was bad, everything else they said was fine, they put in a new battery. tried it today after sitting since Tuesday, and it started up fine, problem fixed.

 

I have a 2002 grizz carbed, and that sat for close to 3 months, went to start it this weekend, and it cranked for at least a minute (very cold blooded machine) and it started, it has the same battery that's in the Polaris.

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    • BEFORE BEGINNING

      Before you begin, make sure you have a good strong battery and make sure it's charged up. If you have a bad or weak battery, you may want to replace it because if it doesn't crank good and strong, you are likely to get a low, inaccurate reading. Make sure your engine is warmed up to operating temperature(if possible). About 10 minutes of riding should do.

      First, take out the spark plug and thread in the adapter for the compression tester. Make sure you have the correct size adapter for your particular ATV. Slide your kill switch to the "off" position. Some ATVs won't crank over with the kill switch in the "off" position, so if yours is like this, then you will need to either unhook your ignition coil or ground the end of the spark plug wire to a good ground. You can use a jumper wire with alligator clips on each end to ground it. Next, make sure the throttle is in the wide open position. You can either hold the throttle lever with your thumb or you may be able to tape it or use a zip tie to fasten it to your handlebars to hold it in the wide open position. If you don't have the throttle in the wide open position, you will probably get too low of a reading. Also, if you are testing a newly rebuilt engine, the engine needs to have been run for, at least, 30 or 40 minutes or you will probably get too low of a reading.

      NOTE: Before you begin with the actual test, make sure the threaded adapter is screwed in good and isn't leaking any air out around it.

      ACTUAL TESTING

      With the throttle in the wide open position, push the start button and crank the engine over until the hand on the gauge stops moving. Each time the engine turns over the hand should raise a little more until it reaches the maximum compression of the engine. When it stops, that is your compression reading. This usually takes no more than 10 seconds. Try to avoid cranking an engine for more than 10 seconds at a time as this is hard on the starter and the battery. Now, push the relief valve on your compression gauge and that will reset the hand back to zero. It's a good ideal to repeat the test a couple or three times to make sure you get an accurate reading. On kick start models, it will be the same procedure, but obviously you will be kicking it over instead of using a start button. Worn piston rings and cylinder walls will increase the number of strokes it takes to reach the maximum reading. If you're kicking, it could possibly take as many as 10-20 kicks to get the highest reading.

      THE READING

      You will need to check your repair manual for your particular model for the correct compression specifications. See note below. Usually, an engine will run OK if it has at least 100 PSI of compression. Most engines will have somewhere between 100-250 and some as high as 300 PSI, depending on the engine. Sometimes they will run with under 100 PSI, but usually not very well. If you get a low reading, you can do a "wet test" to try to help determine the problem.

      If your reading is too high, then you probably have carbon built up on your piston and combustion chamber.

      NOTE: You may get a low reading on some engines because some engines have a decompressor assembly built into the camshaft. Check the service manual for your quad to see whether or not your quad has a decompressor assembly built into the cam.

      WET TEST

      If you got a low reading, pour about 1-2 teaspoons of clean motor oil down into the cylinder through the spark plug hole and do the compression test again. If your reading increases, then your rings or cylinder walls are probably worn. If your reading doesn't increase, then it's probably your valves. You could have a bent valve, you may have leaky valve seats, or your valve clearance may not be adjusted properly. Also, low compression can be caused by a blown head gasket.

      CAUSES OF LOW COMPRESSION

      *Worn piston rings or worn or damaged cylinder walls
      *Leaking valves
      *Valve clearance not properly set
      *Blown head gasket

      CAUSE OF HIGH COMPRESSION (stock engines)

      *Carbon buildup in combustion chamber and on piston

      NOTE: Compression testing is a good way to keep track or "gauge" the wear in your engine. When you first get your ATV or when you rebuild the engine in your ATV, you can do a compression test and then later on, you can do them periodically. This will help you determine the wear in your engine each time you do a compression test and will guide you in knowing when your engine needs rebuilding.

      This is about all I can think of. I hope I didn't leave anything out and I hope this helps everyone with their compression tests.
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