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LHarris

Reel Repair

6 posts in this topic

I am from Richland Center.
I have 2 2500 stradics in dis-repair.
Both bales refuse to return to closed.
Heard it may be simple as a spring.
I am kinda cheap….if costs a lot to fix i will buy new reel.

Anyone know somewhat local repair person that is reasonable?

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You? That would be cheapest of all.  Check the bail spring.  If it is broken, buy a couple new ones and put them in.  It isn't that complicated, honest. 

 

Does it feel like they are hard to move?  or they just sit in whatever position...  

 

There are basically three things that could go bad.  Bail spring, like you said.   the ends of the bail are gooped up and hard to turn, or the thing that trips the latch is worn or broken.  

 

https://fishshop.shimano.com/vip/product_detail.jsp?PRODUCT<>prd_id=845524441848263&SKU<>sku_id=1689949372100565

 

The bail spring is 99 cents, probably plus shipping.   Maybe buy 3 because if you drop one they can be tough to find on the floor. 

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the thing that trips the latch is worn or broken. 

 

i think

 

will take apart and look

if i set hook hard the bail rackets pops up and lets line out

won't close some of time...have to do manually

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Look at the diagram, order the parts.   If it pops open or won't close I am still thinking the spring...

Take pictures with phone or digital camera as you take it apart.  Helps to get it back together. 

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LH...I repaired Shimano's for years, and this was a huge issue for the Stradics and the Sahara's, First, look at the bail and make sure that they are not out of alignment. I bet your problem is caused by one part (and it's the probable cause of both problems)..... To keep the bail from rotating on the cast (and snapping shut on you in mid-cast) there's a small friction ring inside the rotor. It looks like a heavy rubber band only it's made of heavy vinyl plastic. It's  actually called a "friction ring". When it goes bad it loosens up just enough to bind up your reel completely and the bail won't snap shut. Also check the round bail return spring with the smal 90* bend in it, that can pop out of the tiny hole (the "bent" end) and cause the bail to do literally nothing. If your bail actuator pin (your :latch") is bent/worn, that will do it, but unikey that it's worn down that much.

Loosen up the bail center screws, and see if when they are loose the bail will return. If so, they may be bent/out of alignment. Takes some careful maneuvering to get them back to proper set. I love Shimao stuff, but they never did own up to this problem, as far as I know. Check those things first and let's go from there.

 

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If all else fails, Mike from Delaware Valley Tackle will fix and clean them and have them running like new, better than out of the box. He charges $22 per reel for a full breakdown and ultra-sonic cleaning, plus he's very reasonable about repairs. 

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    • BEFORE BEGINNING

      Before you begin, make sure you have a good strong battery and make sure it's charged up. If you have a bad or weak battery, you may want to replace it because if it doesn't crank good and strong, you are likely to get a low, inaccurate reading. Make sure your engine is warmed up to operating temperature(if possible). About 10 minutes of riding should do.

      First, take out the spark plug and thread in the adapter for the compression tester. Make sure you have the correct size adapter for your particular ATV. Slide your kill switch to the "off" position. Some ATVs won't crank over with the kill switch in the "off" position, so if yours is like this, then you will need to either unhook your ignition coil or ground the end of the spark plug wire to a good ground. You can use a jumper wire with alligator clips on each end to ground it. Next, make sure the throttle is in the wide open position. You can either hold the throttle lever with your thumb or you may be able to tape it or use a zip tie to fasten it to your handlebars to hold it in the wide open position. If you don't have the throttle in the wide open position, you will probably get too low of a reading. Also, if you are testing a newly rebuilt engine, the engine needs to have been run for, at least, 30 or 40 minutes or you will probably get too low of a reading.

      NOTE: Before you begin with the actual test, make sure the threaded adapter is screwed in good and isn't leaking any air out around it.

      ACTUAL TESTING

      With the throttle in the wide open position, push the start button and crank the engine over until the hand on the gauge stops moving. Each time the engine turns over the hand should raise a little more until it reaches the maximum compression of the engine. When it stops, that is your compression reading. This usually takes no more than 10 seconds. Try to avoid cranking an engine for more than 10 seconds at a time as this is hard on the starter and the battery. Now, push the relief valve on your compression gauge and that will reset the hand back to zero. It's a good ideal to repeat the test a couple or three times to make sure you get an accurate reading. On kick start models, it will be the same procedure, but obviously you will be kicking it over instead of using a start button. Worn piston rings and cylinder walls will increase the number of strokes it takes to reach the maximum reading. If you're kicking, it could possibly take as many as 10-20 kicks to get the highest reading.

      THE READING

      You will need to check your repair manual for your particular model for the correct compression specifications. See note below. Usually, an engine will run OK if it has at least 100 PSI of compression. Most engines will have somewhere between 100-250 and some as high as 300 PSI, depending on the engine. Sometimes they will run with under 100 PSI, but usually not very well. If you get a low reading, you can do a "wet test" to try to help determine the problem.

      If your reading is too high, then you probably have carbon built up on your piston and combustion chamber.

      NOTE: You may get a low reading on some engines because some engines have a decompressor assembly built into the camshaft. Check the service manual for your quad to see whether or not your quad has a decompressor assembly built into the cam.

      WET TEST

      If you got a low reading, pour about 1-2 teaspoons of clean motor oil down into the cylinder through the spark plug hole and do the compression test again. If your reading increases, then your rings or cylinder walls are probably worn. If your reading doesn't increase, then it's probably your valves. You could have a bent valve, you may have leaky valve seats, or your valve clearance may not be adjusted properly. Also, low compression can be caused by a blown head gasket.

      CAUSES OF LOW COMPRESSION

      *Worn piston rings or worn or damaged cylinder walls
      *Leaking valves
      *Valve clearance not properly set
      *Blown head gasket

      CAUSE OF HIGH COMPRESSION (stock engines)

      *Carbon buildup in combustion chamber and on piston

      NOTE: Compression testing is a good way to keep track or "gauge" the wear in your engine. When you first get your ATV or when you rebuild the engine in your ATV, you can do a compression test and then later on, you can do them periodically. This will help you determine the wear in your engine each time you do a compression test and will guide you in knowing when your engine needs rebuilding.

      This is about all I can think of. I hope I didn't leave anything out and I hope this helps everyone with their compression tests.
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