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Moon Lake Refuge

To much torque for auger?

22 posts in this topic

So on our house we put on Manual tongue jacks to crank it up and down.  Modified the handles on the jacks to have a 3/4 nut rather than the handle on them.  This was just to much for any battery powered drill.  for reference we tried the new Milwaukee with 1100 in lbs and it just about did it but I could feel it was just too much.  We cut a piece of pipe down and welded a socket on the end, slapped it on the old strike master auger and it took the house up like nothing.  I was really bracing myself expecting a good kick but it was effortless.  Realized we have no way of getting it down though without reverse.  A drill should handle that as it doesnt take as much to go down as it does up.  Question is, any thoughts on if the Ion will do it?  We thought about using it but our thoughts were if we're over torquing the auger I would rather have the 20+ year old strike master take the hit rather than a half year old ion.

 

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why not put electric tongue jacks on? other than $ Yes they are slow but its not like your hole hopping with a wheel house anyway.

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1 minute ago, vtx1029 said:

why not put electric tongue jacks on? other than $ Yes they are slow but its not like your hole hopping with a wheel house anyway.

That's the end plan and its wired for them but money is going to other areas in the house first.  This was a 10 dollar fix for the auger.  Looking back we should have just put them on in the first place.  Now we have 100+ in manual jacks we wouldnt have needed.

 

Edited by Moon Lake Refuge

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I haven't really looked for gear boxes but it may be the cheapest way to be able to use your drill. maybe hack up an old transmission :lol:

 

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Just now, Sea Hage said:

If you have a generator for the house you might try a 110 volt 1/2 " drill to work the jacks.

Done and still a no go believe it or not.  Only other option we found that worked was running a driver off the air compressor but with the air needed for that it wasn't a realistic option on the ice.

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Thought about it, but I'm losing faith.  I just cant find auger manufacturers who provide their reccommended torque at the shaft.  Like it said it feels plenty easy and smooth, just hesitant to run a $500+ auger if im not sure.

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1 hour ago, Moon Lake Refuge said:

Jacks not winches

 

Do you have some pictures of these jacks? May be there is some better brands or something you could try as it sounds like these aren't operating to smooth. Have you thrown some grease, Teflon spray, Whale blubber or something on the screws?  Shees. :crazy:

 

Somewhere on the Tube there is a vid of a guy jacking up his house with 4 screw jacks all from one side connected together by rods with just a cordless drill.

Hawg likes this

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I wondered about that when you were building the house. I think you will have to go electric jacks unless you can figure a gear reduction box of some kind. That might be easier than it sounds with some thinking (I hope). Could you mickey mouse the guts of a 2 speed winch? That's a simple gear reduction. Leech, that would have to be a gear reduction box of some kind, right?

Edited by Hawg
Moon Lake Refuge and leech~~ like this

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Jacks work very smooth, fresh grease and by hand feels fine for the amount of weight.  I think for the winter we'll just use the gas auger up and the hand drill down.  I don't want to sink another penny into these darn jacks if I can help it, should be swapping out by next year.  I may look into the gear reduction but I feel like trying to throw one of them on each of the jacks could add another 100 that could go toward electric.  leech if you ever stumble on that video post the link so I can see what hes doing different.  Works great on the tongue when it can pivot on the wheels but when lifting the full weight of the house at the back two jack points it just doesnt cut it.

leech~~ likes this

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I wouldn't do that for each one. I was wondering if you couldn't cut a winch down, or maybe just leave it as is, so you could attach a drill to the low speed post and tack weld/rig a socket or something for the other side and just hold it in your hand. It probably won't work because it sounds too easy. 

Edited by Hawg
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2 hours ago, Moon Lake Refuge said:

Jacks not winches

 

Helps when I comprehend what I read.  I actually just cut the handle off my tongue jack on my Yetti and welded on 3/4 nut too.  My M18 drill with 1,200 in-lbs (2704-20) and it has no problem raising or lowering the tongue.  Biggest thing I noticed was making sure my drill was on the #1 low speed setting.   

 

As far as torque goes and harming your auger.  I think you are totally fine and shouldn't harm anything.  The max amount that these K-Drills and Clam plates are drilling these days with the big drills are 8".  Most sized augers these days have no problem turning a 10" auger which is nearly twice as large of an area than an 8" auger.  Being 2 strokes can normally operate in any orientation without being damaged the only concern I would have would be your gears and any shifting of grease inside operating the auger head on its side under load. 

 

They say Ions will do 10" holes but after I talked to their customer service reps about it, I wouldn't trust an Ion with a 10" more than I do a wet fart.  Just the fact that they don't even sell a 10" package indicates there could possibly be issues with torque and reliability when operating the 10" auger "accessory".  For now I'd just stick to your strike master going up and save your Ion any extra wear and tear.  Maybe even ask Santa for some electric jacks this Christmas ;)

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Santa was originally going to but with the strikemaster doing the heavy lifting(going up) I think a drill will drop it down easy enough, so santa is probably shelling out a nice new stove instead.  Should be on electric jacks by next year... unless we have a good winter, never know!

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Get the clam plate with 2 to 1 ratio gear reduction and use your new Milwaukee .

Make a quick change adapter to drill your holes with same setup.

Or I've got an Ice Gator that will do both.

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33 minutes ago, Surface Tension said:

Get the clam plate with 2 to 1 ratio gear reduction and use your new Milwaukee .

Make a quick change adapter to drill your holes with same setup.

Or I've got an Ice Gator that will do both.

That's what I'm looking for! Didn't even know they made one!  Should be going to pick it up today, thanks!

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Well the gear reducer did it.  Still not thrilled and I think its time to just say screw it and plan the electric jacks.  Thanks all!

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MLR, how heavy is your house?

 

After reading your experience I was getting worried. Earlier this summer I swapped out my handles with bolts and gave them a brief trial with my old cordless Dewalt. It was pretty much maxed out and likely not the ticket. Just purchased the Dewalt kit DCK283D2 that is 40% off at FF in hopes it might work. I figured the impact driver would work but didn't really want to be hammering on the gear set. Tried out the drill after work today on low speed and it raises my house easily. My house weighs approximately 3000#. No more hand cranking for me.

 

Wanted to get the Milwaukee Fuel but couldn't see spending $275 for one drill. This kit is $167 for drill and driver with 2 batteries and charger.

monstermoose78 likes this

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Just a guess but I would say 3500.  After trying a 110 battery drill I'm confident no battery drill(under 300-400) will do our house/ jacks how I want.  Thinking we need to stop fighting it and just go electric jacks.  For just shy of 300 seems like a no brainer at this point.  What kind of jacks do you have? 

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