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    • Rick

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Moon Lake Refuge

Garage planning

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Selling our house and the Mrs. was looking into the dream house... Massive and would likely make us house broke.  I may have her talked down to something much more reasonable with the intention of removing almost all storage in a house to maximize living space and building a second detached garage.  Will likely be a 2-3 car detached with power and eventually gas line ran.  Will be putting in a small room for her craft stuff and making a big chunk of it into storage.  Hoping to leave a couple stalls open and now looking for ideas.  This is our last house so I want to do it right and get what I want... which is mostly a garage hide out.  I will probably run pex in the floors for heat.  Cars will be parked in the attached garage for the most part so dont have to worry about taking up to much space.  This will mostly be for projects/ hangout space.  Ideas I have so far are pex, cabinets everywhere.  Storage built on the ceiling, storage in the attic. may look into water lines but not sure I want to do that in cast I decide to turn the heat off ever.  What else??

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22 minutes ago, vtx1029 said:

Why not just add a second story? its cheap to do when your building it all from the get go.

I'll check the ordinances but A lot of areas around here don't allow for accessory buildings to be higher than a certain point.

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Personally I'd water in there.  I'd either keep it heated all winter or be able to turn the water off to the entire building when its not heated.

I'd want a place to clean and process fish and deer. That would mean a large deep sink, stainless steel counter, and a large upright freezer or two. Also a well placed floor drain in the area to make clean up easy.

Another thing to think about if its going to be your man cave and if your wife will be out there crafting a lot.  If you have water out there why not think about a half bath.  A sink and toilet might be nice to have out there.  Or better yet if its primarily a man cave then you could simply go with a urinal on one wall.

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True about the roof height but maybe you can get a variance. Barn style buildings with a loft as said also add a ton of useful space without going super tall

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sink would be mandatory ,

mouse poof ,

floor sump pit to accept floor drains to prevent them from filling with sand and sawdust and the like

wide doors

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Is this the garage for the family, or the auxilary backup garage?  

Cars go in family area, this sounds like a secondary building.

Edited by delcecchi

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How do you know your future house has an attached garage?  Someone said mouse proof and no better way to ruin your storage and hangout then a mouse.   If you downsize your future house then IMO it wouldn't make sense to compensate for lack of storage space with another building.   I do get the hang out space/work shop idea though.  Our creative juices, energy levels,and sense of well being are good when we walk into the hang out shop.   I think you kill that with an attached sewing room.  The sound of a sewing machine or small talk over quilting squares is enough to make you go back in the house and watch TV.     If not for you,  think of your friends at least.  You won't have any left.  

 So don't make it so nice and you won't have to worry about where you'll hang the pinking shears..  A wood stove,  beer fridge, pizza oven, TV,  BB gun for mice,  set of tools, and funnel out the wall is all you need.

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All good ideas, 1st I know I will have an attached garage still for vehicles because that's a deal breaker.  I won't move without it.  2 I go back and forth on water a lot, deer get cleaned at the cabin and I honestly think most of my projects out there would be woodworking.  Not worried about the wife's craft stuff out there.  It would primarily be storage and during games and weekend evenings she wouldn't be out there doing anything anyhow.  Just trying to free up that entire room in the house.  Love the idea of floor drains but that would be more practical in the garage attached to the house where vehicles would be.  For the water, I'm most concerned about the drain line.  Any idea what that would cost to tap into the main?  Likely within 100 feet or so.  Also toyed with putting a wash tub out there with a bucket under it and just being able to hook up a hose from outside since I would likely just be running water to wash hands quick.

thanks all!

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couple of things to consider, I built a 28x32 garage a few years ago. 2x6 construction with 9' walls.

What direction do the doors face? Mine face north but didnt really have much of a choice so I bought the best insulated doors I could. I also went 8' tall instead of 7'.

I have 2 slider windows (6 total) on the 3 other sides. On one hand its great in summer time to open them and get some air moving through the building especially since my dogs have an indoor/outdoor kennel run in there. But on the other hand I wish I didnt have windows as its hard to put shelves up for storage. 

I did poured footings instead of a slab which helped make the walls a little taller. Put pex in the floor also but dont have it hooked up yet. 

I dont have water and only wish I had it for the dogs but so far its not a big deal. For me being on a rural property it was just too much to get it to tie into the existing septic system.

I didnt think I would want to store stuff in the attic but now that I have it mostly finished I wish I would have went with a more open truss system. I have a 4/12 pitch and in the middle section of the attic I put 4x8 sheets up there with an attic door. can fit quite a bit up there so that has been nice just to get stuff up there and out of the way.

I did a white corrugated steel ceiling and it was so easy to put up. Panels were 36" wide and 16' long from menards. Very little cutting and they went up very easy and fast with a sheet rock lift. Best part was they have a 40yr warranty and I didnt have to tape, mud, sand or paint anything. 

I have it wired and walls spray foamed haven't decided what I want to finish the interior with yet. 

When you think you plan it big enough plan bigger. I was restricted on size based on utility locations, septic and property lines but I wish I could have gone bigger already.

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IMO Runrave has made some very good points.

I do some woodworking and ended up buying a dust collector.  I wish I could built a separate closet for it as it make a lot of noise.  I have been to several other shops and most have done this.  If you do much work at all give some serious thought to a dust collector.  You can get a lot of info on line about what all is required.

You and others have mentioned storing items in the rafters.  If you do this be sure that you get them built strong enough to allow for the added weight.  Quick way to ruin a building is to overload the rafters.

B in law put the fiberglass panels on the ceiling and walls of his auto workshop.  Nice clean looking and probably pretty easy to dust off.

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Hi there, I like the way you planned for your garage. I think the garage should be spacious. I have also renovated my garage and planning to go for hanging closet and cabinets. My neighbor recommended me this site who provided them cabinet service last year. Do you have more suggestions?

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  • Your Responses - Share & Have Fun :)

    • FYI driveway approaches are on the public right of way, you may not block them, or place anything that can injure someone.   May a person park their own vehicle in their own driveway approach?
    • I think they’re more looking at the footings requirement, aren’t they?  Thus the reason for getting the poles below the frost line?   Its the township’s responsibility to figure this out and you have the right to ask them to cite the code they’re following.   I used to live in Isanti County and dealt with a building inspector from my township on the construction of my detached garage.  Things weren’t very strict to say the least.     We built everything by the current UBC code, so I’d suggest first getting a copy of the current version of that since this building will actually be your home.  Don’t take unnecessary shortcuts to save a few bucks up front.  You’ll eventually regret it.   Reading your plans for the slab, it sounds pretty good.  There are plenty of slab homes out there built the way you describe.  What you don’t want is movement.     I’m not an expert by any means but I think footings on your slab wouldn’t be a bad idea and sinking your poles that deep should be a requirement.  If you don’t do footings, at least pour your slab thicker on the perimeter to hold it better.    Your local Authority Having Jurisdiction (AHJ) can be more restrictive than code, but not less.  So if it’s defined in the UBC, you have to do at least that much.
    • I’ve personally been on both sides of this.   Used to love getting as much air as possible over driveways but I never understood gunning it on the other side after crossing.  I guess some are just mild adrenaline junkies.    I quit doing that for one, because it’s illegal, and two, not safe if the homeowner happens to be leaving or getting the mail at the time.   Now that I have a posted trail going over my driveway, I find it just rude, obnoxious and irritating to deal with 4 wheelers and sleds gunning it over the gravel and making ruts and eroding my base to the point of it being an expense to either plow and pack the class 5 back in place or spend the money to pave it.  I hate having to bounce over two ruts with my trailers and whatever I’m hauling in them too.   I think that’s the worst part for me.  Either jump it or be mellow on the throttle the entire way over.   I’ve seen trail groomers go around driveways before, making me wonder if that truly is a requirement or they were simply being courteous.  But I agree with knoppers, they should not drag over the driveway.  Maybe they think they’re taking the snow off for ya.  Call the people responsible for the trail and ask them for suggestions.  
    • If you want to get through ice fast and are going to re-tool for it completely, look at a Nils before making your final decision. 
    • I am fully aware of this as are most people.
    • some people are bad apples that give the sport a bad name, I as a snowmobiler have respect for driveways. FYI driveway approaches are on the public right of way, you may not block them, or place anything that can injure someone. trail groomers actually do you a favor by knocking down the bank, to keep it level. unless your groomer was not well trained, they will not groom over your driveway.
    • If code allows post frame for residential construction then by design you don't need a block foundation. 
    • Perfect that awnsers my question. Why spend $250 when I could spend $150 on a new lazer bit and cuts faster, it’s more durable but still about same weight and a chipper but. Really a no brainer. What are you seeing for drilling time with that 8 inch lazer?
    • From my experience one of my only complaints with the Kdrill is how slow it drills. It more than gets the job done but my laser 8” is faster.
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