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      Members Only Fluid Forum View   08/08/2017

      Fluid forum view allows members only to get right to the meat of this community; the topics. You can toggle between your preferred forum view just below to the left on the main forum entrance. You will see three icons. Try them out and see what you prefer.   Fluid view allows you, if you are a signed up member, to see the newest topic posts in either all forums (select none or all) or in just your favorite forums (select the ones you want to see when you come to Fishing Minnesota). It keeps and in real time with respect to Topic posts and lets YOU SELECT YOUR FAVORITE FORUMS. It can make things fun and easy. This is especially true for less experienced visitors raised on social media. If you, as a members want more specific topics, you can even select a single forum to view. Let us take a look at fluid view in action. We will then break it down and explain how it works in more detail.   The video shows the topic list and the forum filter box. As you can see, it is easy to change the topic list by changing the selected forums. This view replaces the traditional list of categories and forums.   Of course, members only can change the view to better suit your way of browsing.   You will notice a “grid” option. We have moved the grid forum theme setting into the main forum settings. This makes it an option for members only to choose. This screenshot also shows the removal of the forum breadcrumb in fluid view mode. Fluid view remembers your last forum selection so you don’t lose your place when you go back to the listing. The benefit of this feature is easy to see. It removes a potential barrier of entry for members only. It puts the spotlight on topics themselves, and not the hierarchical forum structure. You as a member will enjoy viewing many forums at once and switching between them without leaving the page. We hope that fluid view, the new functionality is an asset that you enjoy .
RiverChuckNorris

Ice Castle Frame Rust addressed + season prep begins

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Finally took a weekend to attack the rusty frame on my IC.  My approach was:

1. Used 3M drill mount paint and rust stripper discs (2).  This was by far the most labor intensive task.  Took about 6 hours.  It really drains the drill batteries, so make sure you have a couple good ones!

2. Wire brushed areas I couldn't reach, then wiped frame down with damp rag and taped diamond plate.

3. Put one coat of Rustoleum rust reformer automobile primer and then one coat of Rustoleum rust preventer flat black with a light sanding in between.

It was a bear of a project but I am very pleased with how it turned out as the frame was in pretty rough shape.  REALLY hope this holds up for at least 4 years.

 

Also had a chance set up my RAM mount on the sled for my Garmin 62 in between battery charges and replace some rusty screws with stainless on the snowmobile trailer.  

Now I have to figure out mounting my Digger Auger mount to the front of the sled and what I'm going to do for a gear storage system on the back of the sled.  Good start though, have the sore back/shoulders to prove it and wanted to share with someone who cares :)

 

Didn't take any good before pics unfortunately to highlight the amount of rust, but found one of my real boss with it in the background.IMG_0510.JPG 

Before

IMG_0977.JPG

AFTER!!

IMG_0975.JPG

Ram mount on sled, excited not to have to hold it and drive anymore!

Edited by RiverChuckNorris

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14 hours ago, rl_sd said:

Looks good chuck! Out of curiosity, how come you chose rust oleum instead of the POR route that most others have went?  Mostly cost?

Hey rl - In all honesty, it simply was due to availability.  Didn't realize I'd have an open weekend to work on the project until Friday.  I think I would've had to order the POR product online vs. running over to the Fleet & Farm store.

I know guys on here swear by POR but the devil's advocate in me also likes trying things differently, in general.  After looking over the Rustoleum products, seemed purpose-made enough to give it a shot.

Maybe I'll end up regretting it, but fingers crossed it holds up as I have NO desire to do that project again anytime soon.

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my prep started with spayfoaming the under floor, cost of 350.00 well worth it.added wbeel well covers and a the bumpout window cover and 2 exrra 30lb tanks. did a propane leak check on all connectios and found 2 that soap didnt detect biut our detection device did. snuged them up good. just gota go over pivot points and wheel bearrings

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No, I wasn't aware:

  1. The frame was water tight?
  2. That there's standing water in it?

I just sanded the exterior.  I'd presume you're speaking from experience?  

I've seen guys drill holes for galvanization dips on their builds but haven't heard of drilling holes in frames otherwise.  This is going to be my 5th or 6th season with the IC and I've never heard/seen water in the frame.

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26 minutes ago, RiverChuckNorris said:

No, I wasn't aware:

  1. The frame was water tight?
  2. That there's standing water in it?

I just sanded the exterior.  I'd presume you're speaking from experience?  

I've seen guys drill holes for galvanization dips on their builds but haven't heard of drilling holes in frames otherwise.  This is going to be my 5th or 6th season with the IC and I've never heard/seen water in the frame.

If you check out the IC Owners Group page on face book guys are draining over a gallon of water out of their frames. Giant problem caused by condensation in the tubes. All the manufacturers have started drilling holes on painted and galvanized now. 

Edited by Lip_Ripper Guy

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17 hours ago, Lip_Ripper Guy said:

If you check out the IC Owners Group page on face book guys are draining over a gallon of water out of their frames. Giant problem caused by condensation in the tubes. All the manufacturers have started drilling holes on painted and galvanized now. 

Huh, had no idea.  Also have never noticed any signs of water in my frame, but I suppose that doesn't mean it doesn't exist.

So my immediate question then is how do folks keep road grime from going in the holes and having the salt/chemicals accelerate erosion inside the frame tubing?  Sure, the holes allow drainage, but they're also going to increase corrosives exposure exponentially, right?

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On 10/13/2016 at 9:37 AM, RiverChuckNorris said:

Huh, had no idea.  Also have never noticed any signs of water in my frame, but I suppose that doesn't mean it doesn't exist.

So my immediate question then is how do folks keep road grime from going in the holes and having the salt/chemicals accelerate erosion inside the frame tubing?  Sure, the holes allow drainage, but they're also going to increase corrosives exposure exponentially, right?

Late in the game on this one but I don't know what options you have on fixing the problem after the fact other than potentially drilling holes and putting plastic plugs in them for travel.  Drain a couple times a year and for storage?  We drilled holes in ours but did it  before we galvanized.  whole frame was dipped so the frame is galvanized inside and out.  No rust problems there.  I suppose if you had enough holes you could just try and run your paint through a paint gun in each hole and you would at least get some coverage but probably not worth it on the whole.  

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