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    • Rick

      Members Only Fluid Forum View   08/08/2017

      Fluid forum view allows members only to get right to the meat of this community; the topics. You can toggle between your preferred forum view just below to the left on the main forum entrance. You will see three icons. Try them out and see what you prefer.   Fluid view allows you, if you are a signed up member, to see the newest topic posts in either all forums (select none or all) or in just your favorite forums (select the ones you want to see when you come to Fishing Minnesota). It keeps and in real time with respect to Topic posts and lets YOU SELECT YOUR FAVORITE FORUMS. It can make things fun and easy. This is especially true for less experienced visitors raised on social media. If you, as a members want more specific topics, you can even select a single forum to view. Let us take a look at fluid view in action. We will then break it down and explain how it works in more detail.   The video shows the topic list and the forum filter box. As you can see, it is easy to change the topic list by changing the selected forums. This view replaces the traditional list of categories and forums.   Of course, members only can change the view to better suit your way of browsing.   You will notice a “grid” option. We have moved the grid forum theme setting into the main forum settings. This makes it an option for members only to choose. This screenshot also shows the removal of the forum breadcrumb in fluid view mode. Fluid view remembers your last forum selection so you don’t lose your place when you go back to the listing. The benefit of this feature is easy to see. It removes a potential barrier of entry for members only. It puts the spotlight on topics themselves, and not the hierarchical forum structure. You as a member will enjoy viewing many forums at once and switching between them without leaving the page. We hope that fluid view, the new functionality is an asset that you enjoy .
perchking

Fall skid house build, all aluminum. Need input on runners

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I bought Touch n Seal 600 bf kits @ about $1/bf online which is slightly more cost effective than the Menards froth paks. The process is very easy. Everything needs to be 70+ degrees.

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9 hours ago, Hawg said:

There's always Froth Pacs at Menards. No real savings but it's fairly easy and available. Don't compromise, foam is the only way to go. 

 

It always seems the success of skids is always determined by the height of skids. Some of you guys are sure building them low it seems to me anyway. Then you just plow.

 

 

6.25 for clearance for me.

 

 

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Pretty sweet build!  I would've loved to build one instead of buying, but I don't have access to a welder.  I ended up buying an 8x12 +v front aluma lite.  They said it weighs about 800lbs.  Inside is spray foamed.  I plan on adding a light weight bunk, some cedar boards for coat hangers/rattle reels, a Nu Way propane stove, and a battery to run lights.  Should stay pretty light. My ATV pulls it easily, but there is too much snow out here right now.  My 600 RMK sled pulls it, but I feel like long term it will burn up the belt/clutch.  

We have fished out of it twice now and it is pretty nice.  I will be able to go everywhere a wheel house cannot once I sell the sled and get tracks for the ATV.  

 

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8 hours ago, lungdeflator said:

Pretty sweet build!  I would've loved to build one instead of buying, but I don't have access to a welder.  I ended up buying an 8x12 +v front aluma lite.  They said it weighs about 800lbs.  Inside is spray foamed.  I plan on adding a light weight bunk, some cedar boards for coat hangers/rattle reels, a Nu Way propane stove, and a battery to run lights.  Should stay pretty light. My ATV pulls it easily, but there is too much snow out here right now.  My 600 RMK sled pulls it, but I feel like long term it will burn up the belt/clutch.  

We have fished out of it twice now and it is pretty nice.  I will be able to go everywhere a wheel house cannot once I sell the sled and get tracks for the ATV.  

 

Just curious how much snow is to much for an ATV with chains?

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I didn't put my chains on, probably should have.  We have had near record snow out here this year.  The lake is drifted pretty good, so it is hard to dodge the drifts.  I got stuck in a drift about 18" deep, tires dug down to the ice and that was it.  Hooked up to the snowmobile after that.  

I personally think that any amount of snow that is a harder pack and deeper than the ground clearance of the ATV will be a problem, chains or no chains.  You just end up high centered.

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Finally have a little time to start working on the house again, I need some expertise for wiring. Please know this is being set up for just Dc power and maybe 4 lights and a small dc fan most likely a ceiling fan. What gauge is everyone using? I also need a recommendation on a good battery, I've been looking at the Trojan brand? Thoughts? 

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If you're using LED lights, 16 gauge should be more than enough.  I'm assuming it would be plenty for the ceiling fan as well, but you may want to use 14 gauge because I'm not 100% on that. 

If you're running a furnace in there, I think the manual on mine said to run 12 gauge wire to it, but I don't remember for sure. 

I used 14 gauge for all of my 12v outlets.

The main thing to remember is to use the correct fuse for the wire size you are using.

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Thanks Adam.

 

Here's a question I should have asked before: 

Is there an alternative to solar lights, knowing I will only be fishing a few times into the night per year should I just go with battery powered LED lights?  I live on the lake that the shack will be on and I have no intentions of bringing it anywhere else. Thoughts or recommendations?

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I may be misreading the question but solar lights still require a battery.  The solar power is used to charge the battery then run the lights.  I would run 14-16 to the lights, and 12-14 to the fan.  For how cheap wiring is in comparison to the rest of the build I beefed ours up in a few spots just in case I ever wanted to run anything that took a little more juice.  Batteries really depend on how you use them.  You could get many years off a cheap marine battery if you dont run it low and charge it every day.  We just upgraded to two 6v batteries from sams for about 180.  I think its about 200AH, that will get us comfortable through a day, but we run a furnace, plenty of light and a TV/Satellite, so we run the generator every day to top off.  
Looking back at your comment, by battery powered LED's did you mean portable lights that run off AA type batteries?   

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Yes, I think I may go through a few sets of batteries per year based on my expected usage. I am thinking 4 lights might be a option vs the expense of solar.

I do however like the idea of solar just not sure I actually need it. Does anyone have a recommendation on a solar kit that would run 4-5 lights and a fan just to circulate the air a little? 

Please, just make up MY mind for me:) 

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Realistically measure your payback time.  Your usage would be on the very low end which is good for you because you wouldn't need as much but I could see you needing a 100 dollar panel, a 30-50 dollar controller and 1-200 worth of battery(s).  That being said, portable lights will be a lot cheaper for you for a loooooooong time, but whats the cost of forgetting batteries during a hot bite?  Priceless...:eek:

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Hard to say, depends on your fishing habits, do you need a full recharge during the day?  Fishing multiple days in a row, or will you fish once and let it charge through out the week?  I haven't seen enough in use to recommend one over the other but from the hip on what you are planning I would look at something similar to this.  Decent reviews and probably 40-70 AH return per day depending on usage.  Pair it with two 6v batteries from sams and they would probably get you through the weekend no problem without a charge.  Really a dice game without knowing exact usage.  You could either spend more on batteries and downsize solar or spend more on the panel and downsize the battery.  Nice thing is if you wind up with to small of a panel you can usually add on easy enough.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MZ5G6ZT/ref=asc_df_B01MZ5G6ZT5122196/?tag=hyprod-20&creative=394997&creativeASIN=B01MZ5G6ZT&linkCode=df0&hvadid=198107824285&hvpos=1o1&hvnetw=g&hvrand=504219979223539835&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9019558&hvtargid=pla-319377150930

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Any time, give me a holler. You are missed up here in the sticks, you have to get your priorities straight and stop working so darn much. 

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soon there will be no work ever and fish all the time. I do miss coming up but we been going to alot of fishing holes. 10000 miles on a new truck last winter fishing so its not like I was at home much

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Trying to source a vent cap for a Empire DV-215 and I was shocked that they wanted $75 for this little flimsy part.  I went to Menard's and they have plenty of them for under 15$ but they need both intake and exhaust which they don't have.

What is everyone else using?  In the big picture it's peanuts, however if I can save a little I will. Sorry for the double pic, not sure what happened.

 

image.png.2d85c9a9a509cf035082ab0dfeb6c225.pngimage.png.2d85c9a9a509cf035082ab0dfeb6c225.png

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On ‎8‎/‎16‎/‎2017 at 0:26 PM, perchking said:

What is everyone else using?  In the big picture it's peanuts, however if I can save a little I will. Sorry for the double pic, not sure what happened.

 

image.png.2d85c9a9a509cf035082ab0dfeb6c225.pngimage.png.2d85c9a9a509cf035082ab0dfeb6c225.png

This furnace has 2 pipes. The larger pipe about 4" is the air intake is supported through ring #29. The smaller pipe inside the larger pipe about 2" is the furnace exhaust connected through the larger ring #30 and screwed to the raised portion of ring #29. My furnace a vintage Hydro Flame Convection with dual direct vent, needed no power, and used a pilot light. Had the identical 2 pipe direct vent as yours. I built 2 rings similar to your drawing. Had 2 major issues:

1. Anytime the wind exceeded 20 mph, my pilot light would blow out even when the furnace side of my house was parked to the leeward side due to wind eddies. 

2. At the exhaust cap which was about 1 3/4" from the side of the house would scorch the side surface above the cap and the moisture from burning Propane (1/2 pt. per 10#) would freeze on and below the exhaust when temp went -10 or below.

Second year I re-designed using the Pipe Cap photo 1 from Menards for under $10. I cut off the bottom half at the black line and cut a hole on the outside flat surface for the exhaust pipe. This was my fresh air intake. Also filled the inside of the cap with a disassembled expanded metal filter from a motor home stove top exhaust filter. 

Photo 1

5997c3aa32165_ExhauseCovercutLine.jpg.564eb0425c1485d626ac20bf093632c3.jpg

 

Secured it to my house and ran the exhaust pipe through the hole in the end. Attached the exhaust pipe to a 2" x 3" aluminum gutter down spout used as a chimney. Photos 2 and 3. Totally solved my issues. You may also find a similar cap to photo 1 for the exhaust instead of the pipe. Most of the caps I was able to find had a 4" connection point so you would need to modify to 2" or whatever size you exhaust pipe is. How ever you do it, cover all openings with a screen to keep the Mud-daubers out as they love burned propane orifice area to build there nest. 

Photo 2 & 3

20170818_074651_resized.thumb.jpg.077545e263981532d55df3cb68be09df.jpg

20170818_074734_resized.thumb.jpg.9b74902b7a181fa6671c448de5361ab8.jpg

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On 8/17/2017 at 6:48 PM, Agronomist_at_IA said:

did you try the amazon

I did, but didn't find anything. Not sure I am doing a proper keyword search however. I believe it is called a termination cap. 

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