Guests - If You want access to member only forums on HSO. You will gain access only when you Sign-in or Sign-Up on HotSpotOutdoors.

It's easy - LOOK UPPER right menu.

  • Announcements

    • Rick

      Members Only Fluid Forum View   08/08/2017

      Fluid forum view allows members only to get right to the meat of this community; the topics. You can toggle between your preferred forum view just below to the left on the main forum entrance. You will see three icons. Try them out and see what you prefer.   Fluid view allows you, if you are a signed up member, to see the newest topic posts in either all forums (select none or all) or in just your favorite forums (select the ones you want to see when you come to Fishing Minnesota). It keeps and in real time with respect to Topic posts and lets YOU SELECT YOUR FAVORITE FORUMS. It can make things fun and easy. This is especially true for less experienced visitors raised on social media. If you, as a members want more specific topics, you can even select a single forum to view. Let us take a look at fluid view in action. We will then break it down and explain how it works in more detail.   The video shows the topic list and the forum filter box. As you can see, it is easy to change the topic list by changing the selected forums. This view replaces the traditional list of categories and forums.   Of course, members only can change the view to better suit your way of browsing.   You will notice a “grid” option. We have moved the grid forum theme setting into the main forum settings. This makes it an option for members only to choose. This screenshot also shows the removal of the forum breadcrumb in fluid view mode. Fluid view remembers your last forum selection so you don’t lose your place when you go back to the listing. The benefit of this feature is easy to see. It removes a potential barrier of entry for members only. It puts the spotlight on topics themselves, and not the hierarchical forum structure. You as a member will enjoy viewing many forums at once and switching between them without leaving the page. We hope that fluid view, the new functionality is an asset that you enjoy .
  • RECEIVE THE GIFTS MEMBERS SHARE WITH YOU HERE...THEN...CREATE SOMETHING TO ENCHANT OTHERS THAT YOU WANT TO SHARE

    You know what we all love...

    When you enchant people, you fill them with delight and yourself in return. Have Fun!!!

perchking

Fall skid house build, all aluminum. Need input on runners

Recommended Posts

project is going fairly slow unfortunately, but I am picking up the odds and ends as I find them on sale.  I just purchased a couple month old Empire 15K vented heater for $75 but it is set up for natural gas.  Does anyone have a part number for the conversion kit?  The model number of the heater is DV-215-7SG, I did a couple of searches but I have to nail one down.  If I cant find one, I will call our local propane/furnace center for assistance later.   Also, those of you who have converted, are there any tips or tricks I need to be warned of?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

my owner's manual for a DV-215-10SG does not show a conversion kit but it looks like you need

p8658 burner orifice and  r2890 pilot burner orifice.

lp an natural gas has the same part number for the gas valve.

just for reference the nat gas parts are p8650 burner and r2893 pilot

hope this helps 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Here are some updates and some changes that have been made, overall I am still behind schedule however as this is be built I am trying to put as much thought into it’s layout so if I want to make changes I can in the future.  The overall shack is 7.6 x 12, I ended up going with 4x6 runners to give me a little extra clearance as we get lots of snow.  I am putting in 3 windows (24x36), a single bench 2x7.5 feet in the back as well as a place for the kids to rest on the built in bunk.  The shack is a little higher that I wanted but needed the head room for the sleeping area for the kids.

 

The curved room trusses are all cut on a water jet and tied together with 1x1 tubing.  We had a few guys doing chin ups today, I have no doubt they will hold.  I also was questioning the 2 vs 3 runners, I am so happy I only went with 2, this floor is extremely strong and will only get stronger when I put the floor in.  This shack will be blacked out with .040 aluminum siding, spray foamed and ready to go within 2 weeks or so.  I will most only spray foam the inside this year, then think a little more as I fish from it of how I want to finish it off on the inside. 

 

So far, the weight of the shack is just over 500lbs which is where I wanted it.

 

IMG_2604.JPG

IMG_2605.JPG

IMG_2606.JPG

IMG_2607.JPG

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Shell is complete, had trouble finding a door luckily a guy had a camper door on hsolist that will be re-skined with the black .040 exterior siding.  The aluminum siding was supposed to show up yesterday, but dint for what ever reason and will be delivered on Tuesday.  Installed the bracing for 5 holes, HDPE on the skis will be in tomorrow to be installed hopefully next week also.  As you can see I built a ladder for the top bunk, I am assuming once the kids stop using it as a playhouse that area will be converted into storage as this is just a day house.  Any input would be appreciated.

 

IMG_2619.JPG

IMG_2620.JPG

IMG_2621.JPG

IMG_2622.JPG

IMG_2623.JPG

IMG_2624.JPG

IMG_2625.JPG

IMG_2626.JPG

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I'm going to be watching to see if the skids on both houses are too low. Sure seems like it will plow. 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Mine has 6.25 of ground clearance, I am not sure if there is a skid house manufacturer that has it that high. time will tell I guess

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

   If your worried about plowing add a short center ski  to the front. I have a 6x12 v front  alumalite   with the center ski  . What snow I have been able  to find over the last to winters.   It seems to float fairly well . The center ski only extends about 2 feet under the front of the  house. I have had zero issues with the center ski freezing.   

535326_10209017210891823_5687566188132864465_n.jpg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Thanks Huntercj, I was torn if to add the 3rd ski but mostly from a stability standpoint, thanks for the input you have provided over the past few months it is helped in my decision making while building this shack.  I cant remember, did you have HDPE skis installed?  Pretty much everything I have on order should be here this week, then I need to rough in some 12V wiring then it's off to the spray foamers.  My goal for this year is to have it fishable, the interior finishing will take place in the near future.  I converted my empire 215 from NAT to LP over the weekend, not a bad job at all.  The cost was about $60, I was amazed how much bigger the holes are  using NAT gas.  I also returned my single pane windows for insulated glass, I will have 3 windows that are 36x24.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

   My skis have plastic on the bottom I would say that's a must .  I wish my skis were boxed   they would hold up better . I haven't found any stability issues so far with the center ski. The center ski definitely helps the front from plowing.

10610780_10209068374970893_635447988637432268_n.jpg

Edited by huntercj

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

1968, there are pros and cons where I live, one of the cons are I have very few choices as to where I can buy stuff like this. I actually had to buy a 4x8  sheet of hdpe from menards on special order. I think it was over 100$ when it was all said and done with the extra shipping.  

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

 You could make the strips of HDPE a little wider the the skis to add more flotation.

You can also make a removable wide boot to fit over the rake of the skis. That will lift the front of the skis.

Mount from Gator to House.  That force can work for you or against you.  Of coarse an upward lift as you pull is what you want.   The tow bar, think of it as another rake.  Fill between the v bar with plastic.  

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Any recommendations on 12v celing fans? I love catch cover products and based on their brochure they sell one but seems way to inexpensive to be any good.  Not really interested in PC fans. 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Well it's all sealed up, spray foam is scheduled for sat morning. Depending how it looks will determine how I finish off the inside. It's only a day house so I would prefer just to paint the spray foam, I've seen some done this way and they look pretty nice, time will tell. Once the foam is is completed, I will install the rubber coin flooring and 5 catch covers. It's 7.6x12 and is 8.5 feet high with a bunk for the kids. Weighed it today, it came in at 890lbs which is better than I thought.

IMG_2718.JPG

IMG_2719.JPG

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

perchking Nice build!!!

 

Huntercj  What kind of sled do you pull that house with? Does it have a low gear?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I normally pull my 6x12 alumalite with a polaris 600 widetrak. From what I have seen I use low range  a lot. Right now i have been pulling it with a 2008 polaris  500 widetrack. I usually get a new widetrak every year.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Your  fishouse looks awesome. I would like to see some inside picture's   . This winter was the first time I had issues moving my fishouse. Before the melt we had 2 feet of powder snow.  I  ended up building a little trail groomer to pull behind my widetrak.  It worked great. Made moving my house easy and smoothed the bumps out some.

Resized_20161230_142420001_1485814748835.jpeg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Well the spray foamer didn't live up to his promises and canceled on me this weekend for unexplained reasons. The issue is, I don't have other choices close to me for foamers, regardless of the insulation, this house will fish this weekend. I will snap some pics this weekend on the ice. 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

There's always Froth Pacs at Menards. No real savings but it's fairly easy and available. Don't compromise, foam is the only way to go. 

 

It always seems the success of skids is always determined by the height of skids. Some of you guys are sure building them low it seems to me anyway. Then you just plow.

Edited by Hawg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I bought Touch n Seal 600 bf kits @ about $1/bf online which is slightly more cost effective than the Menards froth paks. The process is very easy. Everything needs to be 70+ degrees.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
9 hours ago, Hawg said:

There's always Froth Pacs at Menards. No real savings but it's fairly easy and available. Don't compromise, foam is the only way to go. 

 

It always seems the success of skids is always determined by the height of skids. Some of you guys are sure building them low it seems to me anyway. Then you just plow.

 

 

6.25 for clearance for me.

 

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now




  • Your Responses - Share & Have Fun :)

    • I was looking for reviews last night but only found a handful and they didn't really give me that much info. They seemed to be overall positive reviews but all were written after recently applying it so no info on longevity. 
    • Stamped concrete looks great, but not very functional and it requires maintenance too, like every couple of years or so.   ....and how do you get the non-peeled, non-flaked area cleaned?  
    •   If you think about this option I would try and look up some reviews. I would worry about it peeling or flaking off over time and having to keep re-coating it a lot. Bonding could be a big issue.
    • This isn't my patio but its very close to what I have. I think sandblasting would likely ruin the texture and pattern.  I'd also have to reapply a clear sealer after sandblasting and the sealer is what makes it slippery. 
    • This just occurred to me....  I have no idea if it would work..   Could it be sandblasted to roughen the surface and give more grip?         
    • I've seen a lot of options for things you can mix into the sealer before you roll it on.  I may start out going that route since I already have the sealer and the additives are cheap.  I've got a non visible area I can use as a test patch to see how it works.  I don't necessarily need it to be equal to a broomed concrete I'll settle for at least non-deadly.    Hopefully i can figure out something, my wife hates how slippery it is and is threatening to have it all torn out (the really expensive option). 
    • That is the drawback to stamped concrete.  Contractors that I have worked with, always ask, are you sure you want to do this, it will be slick.  The contractors add silica sand to the sealer.  IDK if they mix the sand with the sealer prior to application or after and roll it in.  It helps, but not a grippy as broomed concrete.  
    • I bought a new house last summer and it has a good sized stamped concrete patio off of the deck in the backyard.  It looks great and we use it a lot but the problem is that is very slippery when wet.  This winter it was like an ice rink when it had a little snow on it and in the summer its really slick when it rains or if the kids run on it with bare feet after playing in the sprinkler or pool.    I'm looking for solutions to reduce how slippery it is.  I've seen additives that I can add to the clear sealer that the old homeowner left for me (the cheap solution).  I've also see a product called Deck o Grip (the more expensive option) that looks to be a clear sealer that acts like a thin flexible rubber surface to prevent slips.  My concern with additives is that I don't want it to feel too rough on bare feet.  Most of the additives indicate you won't notice much but I'm wonder if that is true and if you don't notice anything does it really reduce slips that much?    Does anyone have experience with sealers for stamped concrete that aren't so dang slippery?
    • Every bird is around now except for a turkey. I heard them as the sun came up but I know they went to that field again. I am going to stick it out and see if I can get one to come over in a while.