Guests - If You want access to member only forums on HSO. You will gain access only when you Sign-in or Sign-Up on HotSpotOutdoors.

It's easy - LOOK UPPER right menu.

that_guy

Late 70's outboard water pump issue?

10 posts in this topic

Hi folks,

Yesterday I took my late 70's gamefisher 15hp short shaft outboard out for a spin. I noticed that when I was not in gear that the water pump did not seem to be working, but once I put it in gear it fired right up.  Is this normal? I've only used the motor a few times and never paid attention.

Thanks in advance for any insight you might have on this one...

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Maybe you folks need some additional details to generate a response?

It's a model 217-586331.

When I'm at idle there is no water coming out of the pee hole but once I add a little throttle while in gear it starts to run water just fine. Can someone with a mechanical background confirm if it could be a bad seal, impeller or if I just need to not worry?

 

Thanks.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Replace the impeller. That should be an every other year thing. They dry up, the "fins" get brittle, crack, break off, or glaze, and do exactly what you are experiencing. Damage results real fast in that instance. If it's older than 4 or 5 years, you're way past due.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
1 hour ago, RebelSS said:

Replace the impeller. That should be an every other year thing. They dry up, the "fins" get brittle, crack, break off, or glaze, and do exactly what you are experiencing. Damage results real fast in that instance. If it's older than 4 or 5 years, you're way past due.

It is totally not an "every other year thing" in Minnesota at least.  But in this case, there are symptoms that say the impeller is worn and it is time to fix it.  

I have asked multiple dealers about this, both for my Merc 115 and its successor Suzuki.  All have said that it doesn't need to be replaced very often. 

sunniewally likes this

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Well, MY dealer , who knows I do it myself.and the factory trained mechanic from Johnson/Evinrude that is a friend of mine, said it IS. So does my Johnson engine book.  Reason why they call it preventative maintenance.  Maybe that's why I don't have issues with any of my engines. Seems everyone else does, though. Can't see where Minnesota has anything to do with it. Dirtier water will and can make it fail sooner, from all the dump that is sucked up by the intake, ala Zumbro river. Or, from lack of use. My boat sat for two years inside...and the impeller was hard, and started to glaze, resulting in low flow. Discovered last Fall while they were putting my engine on the dyno for a prop test. That definitely needed replacement, It's sitting on my workbench for proof of what can happen. But, whatever works for ya. I just prefer not to fry my heads when it goes out on an across-the-lake high speed run.

 

Replacing a Cooling Pump Impeller

By Don Casey

 

Fresh water (or coolant) is usually circulated through a boat engine by a centrifugal pump, the same type of pump that circulates the coolant in your car's engine. Centrifugal pumps rarely fail, and when they do--indicated by water dripping from a hole in the bottom of the pump--they are simply replaced. But because they are intolerant of foreign matter, centrifugal pumps are not used as raw water pumps.

The raw water side of the cooling system is almost certain to have a rubber-impeller-type pump. Rubber impellers pass twigs and pebbles and small pilchards, but stop the flow of water to them and they shed blades like leaves in an October storm. What could cause the flow stop? An intake blocked with a plastic bag or other debris. An air lock resulting from heeling under sail. A closed seacock.

Checking the exhaust for spray every time you start the engine can sometimes prevent impeller damage--if you react quickly to dry exhaust. But despite your vigilance, sooner or later the raw-water pump will fail, and rarely at an opportune time. To avoid the collateral consequences of pump failure, routine impeller replacement is a good practice. Many boaters replace the impeller annually. How often you should replace yours depends on how much or sometimes how little you run your engine. At least every other year is a good idea

 

Don Casey has been one of the most consulted experts on boat care and upgrades for 30 years, and is one of the BoatUS Magazine's panel of experts. He and his wife cruise aboard their 30-footer part of the year in the eastern Caribbean. His books include Don Casey's Complete Illustrated Sailboat Maintenance Manual, and the recently updated This Old Boat, the bible for do-it-yourself boaters.

.

 

 

 

 

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Thanks for your input!  It had sat for two years without being used after it's last service.  I'll track someone down in my area who can service an older outboard.

Any suggestions for the Shoreview area?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I can't help ya with the Shoreview area, but for $11 (that's what I show for the impeller kit you need) it's well worth it. Look at your cylinder head paint close too, if it looks "burnt" or discolored, you might want to replace the head gasket too. Hopefully you're OK on that. The kit install is a piece of cake. You'll get new seals with it, too.  Good luck!  Better safe than sorry......

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Can you send the link for the $11 impeller kit?  I can only find them for $30.

Thanks RebelSS

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

That may be right...the one I had looked at was a common impeller for those early years...and looking now, they vary from $11 up to $32. My bad! If you can find the right one, the kit, at that price, I'd go with it.  Sorry about that!!!  :crazy:

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!


Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.


Sign In Now



  • Posts

    •   You will get plenty of recipes for a brine or injection, or even an injectable brine which work good for turkey breasts.  A common injection are the store bought ones you see in sporting goods stores in the cooking section. All kinds of flavors from Cajun, to Honey Butter, Garlic & Herbs, etc. Some even come with a free syringe.  Some simple injections you can make are apple juice (plain or jazzed up), beer with seasonings, a doctored up chicken broth and one of my favorites a Lite Apple Brine.  Since it's injected I like lower salt than you would use for an immersion brine.  My Lite Apple Brine's ratio is 1 gram of canning salt mixed into 1 ounce of apple juice.  If you buy an 8oz bottle of apple juice, just add 8 grams of canning salt, shake it and you are ready to inject.     Years ago I asked Old Dave, an online friend, for help on an injection for a pastramied turkey breast recipe I was developing.  He sent me a modified version of Shakes Injectable Brine, which is fancier than my Lite Apple Brine.... and guess what, I really like it too.  Here is the recipe... and if you want to read more, I'll have the link to my write-up below.  BTW, I was skeptical of the cloves, but I tried the first one following the recipe and it's good.  My only variation is I'll use agave nectar instead of the honey sometimes.    Old Dave's Poultry Injectable Brine, based off of "Shakes" Injectable Brine. 
      32oz clean water (non-chlorinated and not softened)
      1/4 cup pickling salt
      2 teaspoons of TenderQuick
      1/3 cup clover honey
      3-4 bay leaves
      1/4 teaspoon ground cloves
      1/2 teaspoon pickle spice

      Heat it up in a sauce pan but do not boil. For a 12-15 pound turkey, inject 2 oz in each leg, 2 oz in each thigh, and 4 oz in each side of the breast. 16 oz total per turkey. I like to do the injection at least 8-10 hours before the fire.   My Pastramied Turkey Breast write-up can be found HERE   EDIT, you smoke them until the internal is 165° to 170°.  An injection will help keep them moist even at the 170° temp.  I like a mix of cherry and hickory, but keep the amount gentle.  Apple would be a safe bet for your first one and you can always use a stronger wood next time.  
    • First off, the comment I made which you replied to with a hypothesis never stated that there was proof they did anything wrong. I merely and accurately stated that there was a chance they did some of the same things and it appears that may be the case.   You said plainly that VW could have chosen the Daimler tech but chose not to. In the end doing so may very well have found them in the same boat.    
    • Haula is probably going to see a lot of playing time so I don't doubt he will have some nice years, kind of like how Brodziak scored 20 playing as our first line center. I like Schroeder as first call up or emergency player but he just can't consistently bring it in the NHL, that is no crime because when he gets hot he is fun to watch but he just can't stay there. 
    • That's some good info, Thanks.
    •   I think they're shut down, too.  Smells like no money and more welfare...    
    •   Not sure if their still producing cardboard up at that plant anymore?
    • Now Haula and Tuch will have career seasons next year.  Haula is the odds on favorite to win the Ross trophy and Tuch should have a couple Norris' in the next 5 years.     Sounds like Wild might not bring Schroeder back either.  I really hope they are contenders for a strong center or a really nice goal scorer.  
    • Good point about the center support.  I wandered out to my ground blind on one of the last days of archery season to find the roof caved in and two poles busted. 
    • MMmmm Cloquet....   Smells like money.
    • I am a little concerned with it fading but it needs to be left up for the deer to get accustomed to it so no way around that.   I assume the sun is the main culprit in fading so I'll do my best to protect against that.  One spot I'm considering is tucked into some pines which create a lot of shade, brushing it in heavily should also help keep it out of direct sun as well.   Good point about a center support to help with the snow.  I'll make sure to add something.
  • Our Sponsors